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core material
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Ksmith, ? I just finished recoring my entire deck with balsa. Some of it was 3/4 and most was 1/2. After I got about half way through I was told I should have used foam core but had already bought the balsa. I have plenty of 1/2 left for your job if that is what you need. I doubt I will evey use it. ? After several false starts?I ended up using a battery powered skill saw with a metal cutting blade to make my cuts as I did a panel at a time. You can only mix up so much West System at a time. I'm at 7 gallons and counting. ? Call if you are interested in the 1/2 inch! ? Billy Ray Davis - Scarlett #79 - W803 788 8877 ? ksmith4312 wrote:
Looking for last minute shopping deals? |
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are you doing the repair from above or below?
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From: "ksmith4312" <ksmith4312@...>
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daiksan
--- In T27Owners@..., "ksmith4312" <ksmith4312@...> wrote:
found some great sites for the work but no one has suggested or recommendedare welcome.I replaced everything along sides of the cabin with 2 staggered layers of 3/16 x 1 1/2" soloid mohogany. It was the best way I could come up with to get underneath the scarf joint tabs from the cabin and deck joint. Its a littleheavier, but I think I'll have enough beer in the bilge to off set it. Also used a little unigrain ply in the fordeck area. Everything was originally 1/2" core. |
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ksmith4312
From above just aft of the starboard stanchion forwarded to about a
foot in front of the cabin. --- In T27Owners@..., gallaher@... wrote: found recommendedsome great sites for the work but no one has suggested or cents arecore material. Balsa, Marine Ply or Nico-Honeycomb. All two welcome. |
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bloomjc1
Hello,
My name is John Bloom. I've been sailing number Buckeye (#386) in Oriental, North Carolina and reading this forum for three years now. I have experience with, what I think, is an interesting variation on core repair. I had very wet balsa and some leaks in the port walkway from the chain plates to the aft edge of the cabin. Because I didn't trust myself to do a full re-core (I'm tired of getting in over my head on projects that keep me from sailing.) I tried a solution that exploited one of the properties of Guerrilla glue. As you may know, when this glue is exposed to moisture it foams. The first step was cutting 30 one inch pieces from a 3/16 dowel . I then drilled 30 11/64 holes into the balsa, working from inside, from the chain plates aft until I reached dry wood. The nozzle on the glue container fit snugly into the drilled holes. Beginning at the chain plates again I squeezed a generous amount of glue directly from the container into the first hole and pounded one of my short dowel pieces in to keep the glue from foaming out. My theory was that the expansion of the glue as it foamed inside the deck would fill the entire space between the top and bottom layers of glass. As I worked I often found that before I've could begin filling a hole, glue from the previous injection would be foaming out of it. Very satisfying. The operation took an afternoon for the preparation and injection and a couple of hours for grinding plugs off and repainting the surface. I can't know how complete the injection was but it did cure the leaking and made the deck somewhat stiffer (the deck wasn't terribly soft before the repair). And, most importantly for me, it caused barely a hiccup in my-thus-far-unrealized goal of going sailing 100 times in a year. |
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