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I think you misunderstand. The board is out. We are limited only by how high the travel lift operator was willing to go up. See the picture.

I also think you should drop the board, because if the board is bad in the spot you show, it will likely have some pin issues, too, or maybe pennant-attachment issues. It would be frustrating indeed

Jeremy, That sounds like a good way to spend a lot of valuable time and money fixing a boat that we only spent $250 to buy. We just want to go sailing, while we’re still alive. We are not going to

Do you plan to drop the centerboard or repair it in place? Given what I see in the photo, I'd drop the whole thing and see what other horrors are hidden above the centerboard trunk line. -

We just last weekend installed the centerboard on No. 90 for the first time. Been working on the boat forever, but the centerboard was new to the boat, i.e. it came as part of the package with No.

Caleb, Thanks. We had an opinion that the slot had something to do with letting the centerboard cable into the board, but I don’t think so. My thought was to drill one or two small holes In the

Hi Scott,I'm going to say that doesn't look right or good.? It is not often that I have seen that side of my centerboard but I certainly do not remember seeing any crevice on any side of it.? It may

It's not supposed to look like that. Mine it that as well, https://photos.app.goo.gl/3hzEgzegFiXZzLvC6 - jeremy p.s. Unrelated, my board had some serious issues at the pivot point and a previous

?Okay, so we hauled for the winter and got the centerboard down in the travel lift, before blocking for storage. Sanded it smooth and bottom painted it. Question: is the slot opening, in the top aft

My T27 #314 only has notches at the spreader end for the upper shroud to run through which I then secure with seizing wire This matches my memory of the mast on #328; notches only, wire up, cover

Appreciate the update and info! Looking through my saved images, mostly from this group, I do see one example of that on someone else's boat (attached). I imagine a lot of riggers looked at that and

Can't answer the question here other than to say that if I rigged someone's boat and the shrouds immediately pulled free of the spreaders, I'll be tripping over myself to try to save my reputation and

Is this what you mean?? Spreader boot? https://www.westmarine.com/search?Ntt=spreader+boot Caleb D

EDIT, Chris Ranney, Tartan Customer Service replied in one day to my web contact question...“T27 Spreaders are 1” OD, 5/8” ID. My T27 #314 only has notches at the spreader end for the upper

Thanks, Scott. EXCELLANT info. !!!

After 10 years, it's likely that deck fittings are ready to be rebedded, plus portlights. That's not a show stopper when deciding to buy a boat, but it's some of the important maintenance you're

Thanks for the info !!! [email protected]> wrote:

Welcome Randy, A 1975 T27 would be a type II, once they redesigned the deck and cabin around 1973 but they kept the hull shape the same.? A 1968 T27 will be a type I with the more shippy looking

Had a 1975 T27 and only sold her because we all got laid off at Lucent in Orlando.? My 1975 had a stout bridge deck. Will be looking at a 1968 in Daytona Beach.? Photo shows no bridge deck.? A4 was

All: A perhaps forgotten technique is to rig a "pier bannister" on the dock to keep the bow in as you back out. Works less well singlehanded. j ________________________________ Sent: Wednesday,