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After 10 years, it's likely that deck fittings are ready to be rebedded,
plus portlights. That's not a show stopper when deciding to buy a
boat, but it's some of the important maintenance you're going to be
catching up on to keep the decks happy.

Thru-hulls are very likely due as well. 5200 seems to break down
quicker in heat and sun and so survives longer under water but
if thru-hulls weren't rebedded for some time before she was put up,
that likely needs attention.

If sails have been left in the sun, they're UV damaged, and probably
terminally. Hopefully that isn't the case but too many people think
they need to get the sails out to show the boat for sale. Fabric
should be crisp even if older. Evidence of fibers breaking and
leaving dust when creased means it is shot. You should not be
able to put a finger through the sailcloth. Not a show stopper
but a major expense to be considered when discussing a price.

Besides the uphaul, the pivot pin and centerboard itself may
need replacement or service.

Check turnbuckles for any evidence of rust and know what
crevice corrosion looks like (google/yahoo/whatever image search
"crevice corrosion"). Stainless steel rusts through like blue
cheese with only minimal evidence on the surface. Same for
chainplates. Check wire rope on the standing rigging for barbs.
Any broken strands indicate severe trauma to the rigging and
means everything is suspect and should be replaced. Not a show
stopper from buying the boat, again, just a significant expense.
I'm told that standing rigging should be replaced every 10
years "just to be sure" but use, whether lee shrouds were flopping
around in the berth or under sail, warm brackish climate, and trauma
factor in to that.

Check toggles, nicropress fittings and everything else on there
for signs of rust in cracks or any cracking at all.

Tiller may have dry rotted but that's easy to replace. OTOH, if
you take it off and it isn't as heavy and solid as a new one,
you're going to be really glad you did replace it before sailing.

After 10 years, you're probably at the very least taking the engine's
fuel and oil to hazardous waste disposal and replacing both before
even thinking about trying to turn it over. Likely new plugs as
well. Shoot some bust-a-nut or other rust penetrating oil in
to the air intake the day before trying to turn it over. One
cylinder will have been open to the atmosphere on its intake
stroke and anything you can do to easy that first cylinder stroke
will go a long way. Oh, but you're likely post A4, but if
you have the one cylinder diesel, same idea applies minus the
spark plug.

Fuel pump, fuel filters, and a starter are engine parts that
you're wise to carry a spare of. On a newer boat, you don't have
to think about this as much, but on a boat where you're hitting the
service life of every moving part, things that fail suddenly and
completely and you kind of need are worth this spares threatment.

Stuffing box may suddenly wake up when the prop shaft turns for
the first time in a while. I suggest giving a day after that and
before going out. This is second hand but trying to include what
I think of. That may need to be repaced or at least tightened.

An inspection haul out or a diver or some free diving with a good
waterproof flashlight can tell you about the prop. Were the
prop anodes replaced every year during those 10 years? If not,
the prop has likely been eaten away and you'll get a lot of
turbulence and vibration (which eats your shaft bearing
and is hard on the engine mount). Not a show stopper, but a
new prop shaft, coupling, and prop is a significant expense.
Tell the yard to cut the shaft off the coupling instead of
pounding on it and wrecking the transmission if they aren't
just telling you to replace the shaft and coupling. After 10
years, the shaft and coupling are now one and they're
virtually press fit on a good day.

Probably want new shaft bearings at the same time. Tell the
yard not to hammer on them. One super extra really amazingly
unbelievably fun thing I got to deal with is building up
fiberglass on the inside deadwood around and below the shaft
tube apparently, after a month of staring at it, because of
decades of people hammering bearings in and out. The
fiberglass was a spider's web and it was a maricle it wasn't
leaking more. New prop tube is still on the todo list.

How's the engine mount? That's one thing I need to deal with.

Any old receipts for parts or labor go a long way in figuring
out what's probably okay and what's probably not.

Hope that helps. I apologize for the length.

Cheers,
-scott

#93, 1965.