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Thanks:

I appreciate your insight. I think I am going to try
the Wednesday night racing. Granted I have alot to
learn and the magothy/annapolis crowd appears to be
really competitive. I am really hungry for
information and suggestions.


I still have the atomic four and I got it running
nicely. Can you tell me the max RPM you get at full
throttle. Mine does not reach 2K RPM and I am
wondering if this is normal with the 2 blade prop.

Thanks again


am
--- calebjess@... wrote:

I tend to agree with tartan27plee on this issue. I
see no reason to
run the jib halyard back to the cockpit at all. Our
jib is on a Furlex
RF and we raise the jib once a season and take it
down only once under
normal circumstances. Of course the furler control
line is routed back
to the cockpit. The main halyard on our boat is
routed back to a self
tailing winch that the PO installed on the cabin
roof (doghouse) just
forward of the cockpit. This arrangement is fairly
useful as we raise
and lower the main at least once each time out.
Raising the main still
requires someone to go forward to the mast to get
the best leverage and
someone in the cockpit tailing the halyard as the
sail goes up. Our PO
(previous owner) also installed reefing lines in the
main sail that are
routed back to the cockpit which are useful if you
do a lot of short
handed or solo long distance cruising. We are not
currently using the
reefing line setup as they can make raising and
lowering the main a bit
more difficult.


-----Original Message-----
From: tartan27plee <tartan27plee@...>
To: T27Owners@...
Sent: Wed, 27 Jun 2007 2:49 pm
Subject: [T27Owners] Re: halyards back to cockpit







AM,

I have spoken to many sailing experters regarding
this very topic,
running the
halyards aft. In
general most people I've asked did not recommend it
for these two main
reasons:

* You will have the better leverage pulling the line
from directly
under the
mast. The more
blocks it passing through the harder it is to pull
it tight.

* Once the main/jib is raised, you will have many
feet of extra lines
that will
you will have to
find a place for.

I hope this helps, and I am curious to read other's
opinions as well.

Paul




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I tend to agree with tartan27plee on this issue. I see no reason to run the jib halyard back to the cockpit at all. Our jib is on a Furlex RF and we raise the jib once a season and take it down only once under normal circumstances. Of course the furler control line is routed back to the cockpit. The main halyard on our boat is routed back to a self tailing winch that the PO installed on the cabin roof (doghouse) just forward of the cockpit. This arrangement is fairly useful as we raise and lower the main at least once each time out. Raising the main still requires someone to go forward to the mast to get the best leverage and someone in the cockpit tailing the halyard as the sail goes up. Our PO (previous owner) also installed reefing lines in the main sail that are routed back to the cockpit which are useful if you do a lot of short handed or solo long distance cruising. We are not currently using the reefing line setup as they can make raising and lowering the main a bit more difficult.

We are in our second season of Weds. night racing at our club. The races are scored using a PHRF formula which generally helps us with our 240 rating. I have learned a lot about trimming and handling this boat from the experience and encourage you to check it out.
One of the main things I have learned is that the rudder can act as a brake if you have to pull it too much to hold your course. If you are experiencing a lot of weather helm you should address the trim of the sails and the centerboard. I find that raising the board about half way can help balance the helm. I have even put a reef in the main when racing in winds over 18 knots helps keep the main and jib in better balance which results in less heeling and same hull speed.
We usually make up some time against the competition on the downwind legs by raising the board a bit. On upwind legs we can't point as high into the wind as many of the fin keel boats in our class even with the board down.
I think that the jib sheet fairleads should be adjusted for the wind conditions. In light air you want more billow in the sail so push the fairleads forward; in heavier wind you want a relatively flat and tight sail so pull the fairleads aft.
I would like to upgrade our main sheet traveller system but generally you should use this when beating into the wind.
In spite of the age of our boats and the somewhat older full keel hull design I find this boat a lot of fun to race and if we finish within earshot of other boats we usually beat them because of our PHRF rating. We sometimes race as a crew of 2 but a crew of 3 or 4 is pretty much ideal for the T27. Try it. You might like it and learn something at the same time!

Odalisque, #328, 1967

Any words of advice on boat trim. I was out Wednesday night watching
races and tried the course behind the last boats. What about the
traveler for balancing the helm? What do you recomend for beating and
reaching as far as centerboard and traveler positions? I also noticed
that we could use more rudder on our boats or maybe is the full keel
that is meant for tracking and not turning.

Learning the T27 is proving to be a lot of fun. Anybody has
experience racing their boats. How competitive is it compared with
the new designs out there?

thanks


am

I don't have a CDI on my Tartan, but I do have one on my ODay. It is
an old reefing system and I just upgraded the drum. I didn't get the
ball bearings and the system seems to turn just fine without them!
I have no idea about the longevity of this system, but the original
CDI drum and bearing, (not ball bearing...), lasted more than 20 years!

Hope that helps some.

Any opinions about CDI furling systems. Bearings or no bearings etc.

thanks again

Armando Morell

AM

AM,

I have spoken to many sailing experters regarding this very topic, running the halyards aft. In
general most people I've asked did not recommend it for these two main reasons:

* You will have the better leverage pulling the line from directly under the mast. The more
blocks it passing through the harder it is to pull it tight.

* Once the main/jib is raised, you will have many feet of extra lines that will you will have to
find a place for.

I hope this helps, and I am curious to read other's opinions as well.

Paul

Our 1967 Tartan is set up with the main halyard run back along the top of the cabin on the starboard side. There is a level controlled block there, through bolted on the roof. That has worked really well for us.

I am thinking about bringig the halyard back to the cockpit, also
about a furling system and lazy jacks. any suggestions,
recommendations, comments photos?

thanks


am

I have S/N 564, moved last year from Punta Gorda, Florida to Smith
Mountain Lake, Virginia. It has taken me on a solo trip to the
Bahammas, been raced and is rigged for single handing. Name is "Sirocco".

FYI that's what the centerboard is for, to help trim the boat. At
12-14 knots you should be taking your first reef in the main,that's
one big main sail. If you have weather helm your not tuned or trimmed
properly. The T27 will sail hands free and you can guide her with just
the centerboard when trimmed right.

Thanks: I am using Cetol on some other outside pieces
and it does work great. I was actually thinking about
removing the toe-rail wood and installing something
else, I have a cracked section that needs TLC.

any thoughts?


FYI
Was having issues with my new used boat because it has
a little to much weather helm. I figured out that with
the center board partially down it actually rounds up
less than with it all the way up in the trunk. It was
counter intuitive but it actually makes sense because
it provides more lateral resistance further back on
the boat making it fall off and balance perfectly.
Also noticed my topping lift was tight and maybe I was
not flattening the main enough. can't wait to try it
this week. It was blowing 12 to 14 and was carrying
a 165% head sail



am


--- calebjess@... wrote:

While I love the look of oiled and varnished teak I
find that the toe
rail varnish breaks down quite fast requiring
seasonal maintenance. I
suggest you apply teak oil, rub with acetone and
finish with Cetol
clear or marine or both.

I love not having to replace the points on our A4!

Good luck


-----Original Message-----
From: morell_21114 <morell_21114@...>
To: T27Owners@...
Sent: Sat, 23 Jun 2007 11:11 pm
Subject: [T27Owners] toe rail replacement






I am re-finishig my exterior wood. Any info or
suggestions about what
to do with the toe rail. replacement information
etc.

Today I replaced the points with an ignitor system
(magnetic pickup
that replaces points).

It works great.


thanks






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While I love the look of oiled and varnished teak I find that the toe rail varnish breaks down quite fast requiring seasonal maintenance. I suggest you apply teak oil, rub with acetone and finish with Cetol clear or marine or both.

I love not having to replace the points on our A4!

Good luck

I am re-finishig my exterior wood. Any info or suggestions about what
to do with the toe rail. replacement information etc.

Today I replaced the points with an ignitor system (magnetic pickup
that replaces points).

It works great.


thanks

fyi, there are C/B prints at
I haven't traced this chain of postings fully, so sorry if this is a
repeat. --Bill Ackerman

--- In T27Owners@..., "tartan27plee" <tartan27plee@...> wrote:

Has anyone tried rebuilding a new the centerboard out of fiberglass

and some lead weight

inside?

fyi, I haven't been having any problems getting files off the website.
--Bill Ackerman

tartan27plee,
There was a discussion thread via the messages about centerboard replacement about a month or so ago. I am not sure if you can search the emails to find the feedback or if you just have to plod through the entire postings. One poster took a magnet or compass to his/her old board and mapped out where there was metal framing/support inside. It seemed as if the C/B was designed to break away if a rough grounding occurred. I am not sure if that was from the original S&S design but it seems to make some sense; let the C/B break but save the C/B trunk from catastrophic failure if a fully metal or steel C/B were used.
The C/B on our boat seems to be in good shape but I can't confirm the break away fabrication method as I was only able to paint it this season while the boat was up in slings prior to launch this spring.
Good luck with this project and I am sure it can be done as you suggested. I am just unsure about the working loads of the materials involved.
I also go by the name of Caleb Davison as well as quotidian01 @ yahoo
T27 #328, Odalisque, 1967, www.odalisque.us

quotidian01

No problem, I have done a lot of research on T27 and will post more whenever I can. Just
posted two more articles on T-27 as a good used boat.

Has anyone tried rebuilding a new the centerboard out of fiberglass and some lead weight
inside?

I had no problems viewing the files you uploaded. I particularly liked the Atomic 4 FAQ article you posted so thanks for that. I am using a Mac laptop right now but I can still view the links I initially posted with my Dell desktop PC which is currently out of commission (Windoze xp).
Some of the files I posted may require MS excel, word or other equivalent software in order to view them.
Does anyone else have problems viewing the files in the Files section of the website?

Thanks for contributing information.
T27 #328 Odalisque