Just a quick note to thank backstay13, R.S Headley and Calebjess
for their promp reply to my question. It shows how strong (enthusiastic)
the T27 owners group is. It's great to be an owner and a member.
Harry Demarest

My 27 #249 formerly (SKYWALKER) does not have a stern rail. I love
her as she is now, however I would like to know what's involved such as
cost of purchasing, where to buy and tips on installation.

Thanks-Harry Demarest SKIMMER South Shore, Long Island

---

Never miss a thing.

I have the stern rail removed from LOLA at the moment.
I'll take some pics and get dimensions in a couple of days and post them then...I agree with the backing plate idea... I'd even suggest aluminum...
Rich

---

Looking for last minute shopping deals?

Harry,

Our T-27 (#328) came with a stern rail already mounted and it had not occurred to me that it was a previous owner upgrade. Perhaps ours was added at the factory. I have installed a new bow pulpit which we purchased from tartanparts.com several years ago ($750). The installation is a 2 man job but can be done by 1 person who is very clever and patient. You need backing plates for the legs (stanchions) and I would recommend you find an old decaying boat somewhere and cut some fiberglass backing plates from it. I originally used 1/2" plywood (without epoxy coating) and it is already delaminating. I would use 3M 4200 to bed the feet and backing plate in place to the deck (I used a marine caulk). You will want a ratchet wrench set to tighten the nuts down.
As for where to get one I am somewhat clueless with online resources but I would bet that a local marine welder could fashion you one for around $1K that you could install yourself. There are some pictures on my boat website that show most of the stern rail in the photos section this one being the best:
I could get you the dimensions in a few weeks after I get back from Florida as we are splashing in in mid April.

I know that Chris took good care of his Skywalker and hope that you have a great season with your Skimmer.

Caleb Davison
NY, NY




From: Harry Demarest <hd2161@...>
To: T27Owners@...
Sent: Tue, 4 Mar 2008 4:39 pm
Subject: [T27Owners] Stern rail

My 27 #249 formerly (SKYWALKER) does not have a stern rail. I love
her as she is now, however I would like to know what's involved such as
cost of purchasing, where to buy and tips on installation.

Thanks-Harry Demarest SKIMMER South Shore, Long Island




Yahoo! Groups Links

My 27 #249 formerly (SKYWALKER) does not have a stern rail. I love
her as she is now, however I would like to know what's involved such as
cost of purchasing, where to buy and tips on installation.

Thanks-Harry Demarest SKIMMER South Shore, Long Island

thanx greg. anything other than the obvious to look for to tell if
the foredeck has been filled with epoxy or someother product. as i
mentioned before. there are no obvious localized 'soft' spots like
what you get with typical delam. rather, on both sides, off the
center line of the foredeck, in the widest area, the decks seem
to 'give' if you bounce on them a bit. from below the deflection is
very obvious. i've stood on epoxy filled sidedecks, and while they
didn't exhibit 'mushy' softness, there was still some movement.
that's what reminded me of this situation. as you would expect with
an epoxy job, the surface isn't mushy, but the stiffness of the
whole platform might suffer. i dunno. everything else on this boat
is really awesome, so i'm sort of hoping against hope that it really
is 'normal'. problem is that i do not know what normal is on these
boats.

--- In T27Owners@..., "Greg Van Pelt" <greg.vanpelt@...>
wrote:

my primary concern (on this particular boat) is with the foredeck

(and

decks in general). the foredeck is almost completely flat and is
unsupported below. this would seem to all but guarantee a degree

of

'give'. also, there is a bit of a crack at the base of the

cabintop.

this is worrisome. if it is normal and can be expected to stay
constant, then i might be able to live with it. but if it has been
drilled and filled with epoxy in an attempt to firm it up, then i

will

definitely take a pass. i'm going back this w/e to look VERY

closely.

Richard -

The T27 is a great boat - especially if draft is an issue. But I

think

your concern about drill-and-fill repairs is warranted. I'd take a
rubber mallet or plastic hammer along next weekend and do a

thorough

sounding of the deck. (Don't know about the T27-2, but on the

original

deck, the coring stops about the aft end of the deckhouse.

my primary concern (on this particular boat) is with the foredeck (and decks in general). the foredeck is almost completely flat and is unsupported below. this would seem to all but guarantee a degree of 'give'. also, there is a bit of a crack at the base of the cabintop. this is worrisome. if it is normal and can be expected to stay constant, then i might be able to live with it. but if it has been drilled and filled with epoxy in an attempt to firm it up, then i will definitely take a pass. i'm going back this w/e to look VERY closely.


Richard -

The T27 is a great boat - especially if draft is an issue.? But I think your concern about drill-and-fill repairs is warranted.? I'd take a rubber mallet or plastic hammer along next weekend and do a thorough sounding of the deck.? (Don't know about the T27-2, but on the original deck, the coring stops about the aft end of the deckhouse.

---

Never miss a thing.

I have hull 555 1974. Deck feels solid although
never looked up while somebody is waking on top. Is a
real dry boat, hardly need to pump bilge. As far as
ventilation I will like to have opening ports.

I love my boat and is still competitive in most
conditions. Adjustable centerboard is a plus on the
chesapeake being able to get to a lot of shallow but
interesting places.

As far as pointing it does not point as high as newer
fin keel designs.


I do not know about these other boats performance.

my two cents...I would go for the dry newer boat with
standing headroom below.


armando


--- yamiracer <yamiracer@...> wrote:

Hi,

I'm considering buying '75 T-27. the kind with the
raised
bridgedeck. when inspecting the boat, we noticed
that the foredeck
flexes a bit more than i'm used to. for example,
someone lying in
the vberth can clearly see the foredeck deflect
downward if someone
bounces on it a bit. I am also looking at a P-28
and the foredeck
is rock solid. however, the pearson has an arched
deck, so it's
bound to be stiffer. but still, the T-27 felt a bit
trampoline-
like. i noticed the foredeck was painted, and i
guessed that maybe
the current owner 'drilled and filled' a spongey
foredeck. just a
SWAG. i couldn't detect any of the usual indicators
of delam such
as 'softness', just a general tendency of the
foredeck to 'give' a
bit. same on both sides. side decks (along
cabintop) are
relatively solid. is this the way T-27 foredecks
are, or should I
just walk away?

also, do any of you people share the vberth with
your partner? I'm
6' tall and found I could just fit. My wife is a
nice, uh, 'sturdy'
Flemish girl, and i'm affraid it might be a bit too
'cozy' for the
two of us. we're going back next w/e to see if we
can both fit. if
not, it's probably a dealbreaker. too bad, nice
boat otherwise.

also, how do you guys find the side galley? is the
ventilation OK?
and do you get a stiff neck from cooking?

pointing. under somewhat stable conditions, say
10-15 knots, how
high can you point?

finally,

any issues with the 74-76 vintage?

thanx in advance,

rw

P.S.

i'm currently torn between a Cape Dory 28, Sabre 28,
a pearson 28
and the T-27. have located pretty good examples of
each, and need
to pull the trigger soon, as they are all probably
going to sell.
Truth be told, right now the CD-28 is 'winning',
followed closely by
the Sabre and P-28. the T-27 is a bit of a
wildcard, and is bring
up the rear.

____________________________________________________________________________________
Be a better friend, newshound, and
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. ;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ

Hi,

I'm considering buying '75 T-27. the kind with the raised
bridgedeck. when inspecting the boat, we noticed that the foredeck
flexes a bit more than i'm used to. for example, someone lying in
the vberth can clearly see the foredeck deflect downward if someone
bounces on it a bit. I am also looking at a P-28 and the foredeck
is rock solid. however, the pearson has an arched deck, so it's
bound to be stiffer. but still, the T-27 felt a bit trampoline-
like. i noticed the foredeck was painted, and i guessed that maybe
the current owner 'drilled and filled' a spongey foredeck. just a
SWAG. i couldn't detect any of the usual indicators of delam such
as 'softness', just a general tendency of the foredeck to 'give' a
bit. same on both sides. side decks (along cabintop) are
relatively solid. is this the way T-27 foredecks are, or should I
just walk away?

also, do any of you people share the vberth with your partner? I'm
6' tall and found I could just fit. My wife is a nice, uh, 'sturdy'
Flemish girl, and i'm affraid it might be a bit too 'cozy' for the
two of us. we're going back next w/e to see if we can both fit. if
not, it's probably a dealbreaker. too bad, nice boat otherwise.

also, how do you guys find the side galley? is the ventilation OK?
and do you get a stiff neck from cooking?

pointing. under somewhat stable conditions, say 10-15 knots, how
high can you point?

finally,

any issues with the 74-76 vintage?

thanx in advance,

rw

P.S.

i'm currently torn between a Cape Dory 28, Sabre 28, a pearson 28
and the T-27. have located pretty good examples of each, and need
to pull the trigger soon, as they are all probably going to sell.
Truth be told, right now the CD-28 is 'winning', followed closely by
the Sabre and P-28. the T-27 is a bit of a wildcard, and is bring
up the rear.

--- In T27Owners@..., norman pitcher <ndpsail@...> wrote:

I investigated a future repower last year( have not done it because

faryman runs fine )

BETA MARINE distributor indicated to have a dierct replacement

for the faryman .-motor mount designed to fit itno faryman engine bed/pan

I'm also a great fan of Beta Marine because they use the Kubota engine
as a base. Other then being able to fit it in the old engine beds it
also has the advantage that you can go to a Kubota dealer anywhere and
get spare parts for less than half of the marinized prices. Though I
don't have a Beta engine yet since my Universal M3-20 (also turned out
to be a Kubota) is still running strong. I did a complete overhaul
with Kubota engine parts after it was immersed in fresh water when I
bought the boat. For example: A single injector priced at Torresen was
$291.94 compared to $96.00 at the local Kubota dealer!

Matthias

开云体育

Messages In This Digest (2 Messages)

1a.

From: Jack Wyman

1b.

From: chrisd4700

|

Messages

1a.

Tartan 27-2 repower

Posted by: "Jack Wyman" jackwyman@... ?

Fri Feb?8,?2008 12:15?pm (PST)

Hello,

Has anyone replaced the infamous Farymann A30M diesel on their T27-2? If so, with what? And did you have to cut away the fiberglass pan below the engine? And modify the mounting beds?

We're considering installing a 2-cyl 14hp or a 3-cyl 20hp Yanmar. Or possibly a rebuilt Atomic 4 with electronic ignition and an electric fuel pump. Any thoughts/recommendations/warnings on any of this?

After much soul-searching and checking around, I've given up on an electric auxiliary. It sounds great for daysailing, but we want to cruise the Great Lakes, especially the North Channel.

Jack Wyman
1978 Tartan 27-2
HIN 667
Seakindly (for now)
Manchester, Michigan

Reply to sender | Reply to group |
(2)

1b.

Re: Tartan 27-2 repower

Posted by: "chrisd4700" chrisd4700@... ?

Fri Feb?8,?2008 12:47?pm (PST)

Hi Jack,

Why not electric? There is a guy on the tartans owners forum who
repowered with a 48 volt electric motor and says he can motor all day
at 5 knts. Charges with wind genny and solar? So much cleaner, no
winterizing, no noise?

I have a yanmar in my 1970 T27. It was done by the PO. 2GM20F. I love
it. Runs smoothly and starts every time. I keep really good care of
it and make sure all the filters are changed regularly but if it goes,
I'm getting an electric motor.

Good luck. I'm not familiar with the fiberglass pan you speak of.
Sorry I'm no help.
c

Reply to sender | Reply to group |
(2)

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---

Looking for last minute shopping deals?

Hi Jack,

Why not electric? There is a guy on the tartans owners forum who
repowered with a 48 volt electric motor and says he can motor all day
at 5 knts. Charges with wind genny and solar? So much cleaner, no
winterizing, no noise?

I have a yanmar in my 1970 T27. It was done by the PO. 2GM20F. I love
it. Runs smoothly and starts every time. I keep really good care of
it and make sure all the filters are changed regularly but if it goes,
I'm getting an electric motor.

Good luck. I'm not familiar with the fiberglass pan you speak of.
Sorry I'm no help.
c

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--- In T27Owners@..., "ackermwi" <back22@...> wrote:

fyi, there are C/B prints at
I haven't traced this chain of postings fully, so sorry if this is a
repeat. --Bill Ackerman

--- In T27Owners@..., "tartan27plee" <tartan27plee@>

wrote:

Has anyone tried rebuilding a new the centerboard out of

fiberglass

and some lead weight

inside?

I am building a Westsystem epoxy glass laid up cboard for #408, 1969.
The core will have 105# of precast lead, instead of the two steel
plates in the '60s &'70s originals. Rather than the two outer skins
of heavy roven woving filled with just polyester resin, the cb is all
hand laid glass cloth in a female mold encasing the lead. The orig.
bronze pivot casting is all that will remain from the old board and
is of good design. A reinforced s/s pendent cable attachment hole is
bonded in the build up. West barrier coating & bottom paint complete
the system. pswift@...

--- In T27Owners@..., "ackermwi" <back22@...> wrote:

fyi, there are C/B prints at
I haven't traced this chain of postings fully, so sorry if this is a
repeat. --Bill Ackerman

--- In T27Owners@..., "tartan27plee" <tartan27plee@>

wrote:

Has anyone tried rebuilding a new the centerboard out of

fiberglass

and some lead weight

inside?

I am building a Westsystem epoxy glass laid up cboard for #408, 1969.
The core will have 105# of precast lead, instead of the two steel
plates in the '60s &'70s originals. Rather than the two outer skins
of heavy roven woving filled with just polyester resin, the cb is all
hand laid glass cloth in a female mold encasing the lead. The orig.
bronze pivot casting is all that will remain from the old board and
is of good design. A reinforced s/s pendent cable attachment hole is
bonded in the build up. West barrier coating & bottom paint complete
the system. pswift@...

--- In T27Owners@..., "ackermwi" <back22@...> wrote:

fyi, there are C/B prints at
I haven't traced this chain of postings fully, so sorry if this is a
repeat. --Bill Ackerman

--- In T27Owners@..., "tartan27plee" <tartan27plee@>

wrote:

Has anyone tried rebuilding a new the centerboard out of

fiberglass

and some lead weight

inside?

I am building a Westsystem epoxy glass laid up cboard for #408, 1969.
The core will have 105# of precast lead, instead of the two steel
plates in the '60s &'70s originals. Rather than the two outer skins
of heavy roven woving filled with just polyester resin, the cb is all
hand laid glass cloth in a female mold encasing the lead. The orig.
bronze pivot casting is all that will remain from the old board and
is of good design. A reinforced s/s pendent cable attachment hole is
bonded in the build up. West barrier coating & bottom paint complete
the system. pswift@...

---

Never miss a thing.

Yes I see the benefit for light air. The boom not
pulling down on the sail.

I usually keep the topping lift attached making sure
that is loose enough to let me flatten the sail if
needed.

thanks for the info

armando
--- chrisd4700 <chrisd4700@...> wrote:

Hey Armando,

I sail by myself mostly and getting to the mast to
fetch up the topping
lift can be a hairy affair, as you know, in any kind
of weather. I'd
rather not attach a bunch of blocks on my boom to be
able to do it from
the cockpit. I don't like the potential for the boom
to crash down into
the cockpit either. The topping lift swings around
up there aloft and
this arrangement just eliminates that. It's clean,
sturdy and very
handy. Apparently it really helps in light air
sailing as well. I
guess allowing you to create a nicer shape in the
sail. I've only
sailed on a newer Beneteau with one, never a T-27.

____________________________________________________________________________________
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