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Re: Farymann a30 shaft coupling
We have some waters like that around here.? We have the East River, which is really not a river at all but a tidal inlet.? Then we have the Hudson River.? Both can have tidal currents that overwhelm a not so enthusiastic engine.? ?
From where I sit, I see that you two options:?
1) Bite the bullet and use your towing insurance to get out of the restricted channel (or get a tow all the way home).? I hope you do have towing insurance as without the insurance they can really gouge you, even for short distances.?
2) Fabricate some way to give your T27 some power.? That could be from an outboard mounted along stern or aft beam of your boat.? By outboard I mean either a strong battery powered motor or a small outboard motor (~ 5 HP, depending on what currents you might face).? I'd use some 2 x 4 or larger boards to make a temporary mount for the motor.? Lash the mount to the boat and then mount the motor (no screws through the hull needed).? Have some canvas or cloth available to use to protect the hull where the wooden mount mates with the hull.? Option #2 sounds like more fun but twice the work.
I am a lazy cuss so I'd probably go with option #1.
Good luck.
Caleb D
#328
On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 07:24:04 PM EDT, lm53187 <muellerl@...> wrote:
Thanks Caleb, Obviously the solution to get us home is top of mind. Once there, a world of more permanent solutions are available to us (including repowering and electrification). We certainly don't mind sailing and are well practiced at sailing far more of our trips than motoring. That said, we're currently between drawbridges and along a restricted channel. I'm trying to identify a solution that gives us enough confidence that we won't become a navigational hazard on our way out of here to raise sails and cross the lake.
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Re: Farymann a30 shaft coupling
Looking at some more of those, this has a hub design that looks like
it would resist pulling apart:
That's more shock absorbing than vibration dampening tho, and less flexi.
-scott
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 7/10/23, Scott Walters <scrottie@...> wrote: I guess the one pictured is yours, and it broke? The rubber separated
from the metal? And nothing holds it together except the chemical
bond of the rubber?
Take the whole thing and your photos to a machine shop. Make sure
they know you're not looking for a quick repair but a re-engineered
part, with the associated time and money investment.
They might start with the two flanges you have and weld some prongs on
to them with the idea that you can stuff shock absorbent material
between them. Maybe some kind of double ball joint can be fitted down
the middle connecting the flanges to keep it from pulling apart in
reverse. I may have to make an xpaint drawing.
1. Flanges need to be generally parallel to each other
2. Need to be spaced a fixed distance and not pull apart
3. Needs to absorb as much vibration as possible otherwise
4. Do need space to access nuts to bolt through the flanges
Flange bolt patterns are often adapted. Currently available shaft
vibration dampeners could be welded on to your existing flanges tho as
you said they aren't going to absorb as much vibration as yours.
Caleb's could work for that, or something like
. Those seem to be available in large enough sizes for the
application. If the metals available aren't similar, the machine shop
can easily make a new flange modeled on your old ones. Stainless is
the best bet here so get something like
and have them add the right
flanges and maybe weld some stainless wire rope on the outside to hold
it from pulling apart. And that's about the design I was trying to
describe when I was talking about welding prongs on to your flanges so
that saves a bad xpaint drawing. Or show them that and bring in a
bunch of hard durometer rubber from McMaster and ask them to make
something very roughly like that starting with your existing flanges.
That says "each part sold separately" so you could just buy the
"Buna-N" "spiders" (rubber thingies) and hand that to a machinist or
welder to add to your flanges.
If you start with your existing flanges and modify them in to
something like that, then any welding shop should be able to do it.
You're not even looking for a machine shop. You may have to try a few
shops tho.
These shops aren't really used to being asked to work on boats so they
can be a bit shy, but it's the same damn thing as old tractors or oil
rigs, really. Talk it through with them.
I know that's a Plan B versus just finding a spare part (and maybe
someone will still pipe up with one) but always good to have a Plan B.
Ok did a really really bad xpaint after all. A hand drawing would be
better. Except for really stock things like metal bar or plate etc,
welding shops really want you to supply any other materials, which
might just be some of those "spiders" and some wire rope of the same
metal as the flanges, or stainless if you're having new ones made.
Good luck!
-scott
On 7/10/23, lm53187 <muellerl@...> wrote:
I was hoping to, but have been unable to find a product with a close
enough
fit to the existing flanges.
The existing surface is 4 in diameter, with a ~2 and 7/8 in bolt pattern,
and 1.75 in pilot. Unfortunately, all the professionals and suppliers
I've
talked to are flummoxed.
I might be able to change out the prop coupling and have a spacer
machined
to mate to the transmission, but it's certainly not a very quick solution
and we're away from the home port...
|
Re: Farymann a30 shaft coupling
I guess the one pictured is yours, and it broke? The rubber separated
from the metal? And nothing holds it together except the chemical
bond of the rubber?
Take the whole thing and your photos to a machine shop. Make sure
they know you're not looking for a quick repair but a re-engineered
part, with the associated time and money investment.
They might start with the two flanges you have and weld some prongs on
to them with the idea that you can stuff shock absorbent material
between them. Maybe some kind of double ball joint can be fitted down
the middle connecting the flanges to keep it from pulling apart in
reverse. I may have to make an xpaint drawing.
1. Flanges need to be generally parallel to each other
2. Need to be spaced a fixed distance and not pull apart
3. Needs to absorb as much vibration as possible otherwise
4. Do need space to access nuts to bolt through the flanges
Flange bolt patterns are often adapted. Currently available shaft
vibration dampeners could be welded on to your existing flanges tho as
you said they aren't going to absorb as much vibration as yours.
Caleb's could work for that, or something like
. Those seem to be available in large enough sizes for the
application. If the metals available aren't similar, the machine shop
can easily make a new flange modeled on your old ones. Stainless is
the best bet here so get something like
and have them add the right
flanges and maybe weld some stainless wire rope on the outside to hold
it from pulling apart. And that's about the design I was trying to
describe when I was talking about welding prongs on to your flanges so
that saves a bad xpaint drawing. Or show them that and bring in a
bunch of hard durometer rubber from McMaster and ask them to make
something very roughly like that starting with your existing flanges.
That says "each part sold separately" so you could just buy the
"Buna-N" "spiders" (rubber thingies) and hand that to a machinist or
welder to add to your flanges.
If you start with your existing flanges and modify them in to
something like that, then any welding shop should be able to do it.
You're not even looking for a machine shop. You may have to try a few
shops tho.
These shops aren't really used to being asked to work on boats so they
can be a bit shy, but it's the same damn thing as old tractors or oil
rigs, really. Talk it through with them.
I know that's a Plan B versus just finding a spare part (and maybe
someone will still pipe up with one) but always good to have a Plan B.
Ok did a really really bad xpaint after all. A hand drawing would be
better. Except for really stock things like metal bar or plate etc,
welding shops really want you to supply any other materials, which
might just be some of those "spiders" and some wire rope of the same
metal as the flanges, or stainless if you're having new ones made.
Good luck!
-scott
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 7/10/23, lm53187 <muellerl@...> wrote: I was hoping to, but have been unable to find a product with a close enough
fit to the existing flanges.
The existing surface is 4 in diameter, with a ~2 and 7/8 in bolt pattern,
and 1.75 in pilot. Unfortunately, all the professionals and suppliers I've
talked to are flummoxed.
I might be able to change out the prop coupling and have a spacer machined
to mate to the transmission, but it's certainly not a very quick solution
and we're away from the home port...
|
Selling Our T-27 after 40+ years of ownership
Hi All,
Our T-27 (hull #123) is up for sale in Norwalk CT. It has been on Long Island Sound since new, I am the second owner and have worked on it more than sailed it. Age is forcing me to sell.
It has many modern features, a Coast Guard compliant head, Yanmar 2GM20F engine, modern internal halyard mast, redesigned and rebuilt centerboard restored teak with bow sprit, bilge pump and much more. Can be found on Craig¡¯s List for NYC-fairfield county ¡°New York.craigslist.org/search/fct/boo#search=1~gallery~0~30¡±
Contact me through Craig¡¯s List or email jdob3542@.... Presently in the water in Five Mile River Rowayton CT.
Jim Dobbs
Norwalk CT
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Re: Farymann a30 shaft coupling
Thanks Caleb, Obviously the solution to get us home is top of mind. Once there, a world of more permanent solutions are available to us (including repowering and electrification). We certainly don't mind sailing and are well practiced at sailing far more of our trips than motoring. That said, we're currently between drawbridges and along a restricted channel. I'm trying to identify a solution that gives us enough confidence that we won't become a navigational hazard on our way out of here to raise sails and cross the lake. Best, Lee
#663 Dawn
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Re: Farymann a30 shaft coupling
In the number of years I've been boating on mine and other peoples boats I have never seen a "drive saver" quite like that.? I have not spent a lot of time on boats with the Farymann A30 diesel, but you have found out that parts for it are non-existent to maybe not.? Some use CNC shops to make up small spec pieces like manifold inlets, or mixing elbows.? Not sure I'd want to see the bill for having a CNC shop make up a new version of that drive saver.??
How badly damaged is the original item?? Can you simply get new bolts and nuts and tighten the whole thing back up, very tightly?? Duct tape it together if the rubber part is falling apart, or consider replacing the rubber with a hunk of pine (softer wood).? Get creative and maybe get home?? If the vibrations of the A30 don't loosen your fillings or damage your "repair" you might get home.
One of the first things you might consider doing when you get home is to get one of those "standard" drive savers that I linked in a previous message.? Figure out what new shaft couplings you will need and get another shaft made.? While you are at it replace/inspect your stuffing box and cutlass bearing.? It will be good for another 10+ years, if you do.
How much farther do you need to travel?? Maybe try not to motor so much.? If you wait out some windless days then the wind is certain to come, at some point.? The T27 is a fine sailor after all.
Best of luck.
Caleb D #328
On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 06:13:31 PM EDT, lm53187 <muellerl@...> wrote:
Pictures attached. Unfortunately, there doesn't seem to be a good alternative off the shelf solutions. I've spoken to Farymann North America, Beta Marine, PYI inc, and others. The bolt pattern and pilot are simply nonstandard. I'm beginning to wonder about through bolting the whole piece to get me home, but worried about how it might hold up with the vibration of the single cylinder. The design of the coupling is supposed to account for this.
Lee
|
Re: Farymann a30 shaft coupling
I was hoping to, but have been unable to find a product with a close enough fit to the existing flanges.
The existing surface is 4 in diameter, with a ~2 and 7/8 in bolt pattern, and 1.75 in pilot. Unfortunately, all the professionals and suppliers I've talked to are flummoxed.
I might be able to change out the prop coupling and have a spacer machined to mate to the transmission, but it's certainly not a very quick solution and we're away from the home port...
|
Re: Farymann a30 shaft coupling
Could you make something like this work?
Caleb #328
On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 06:13:31 PM EDT, lm53187 <muellerl@...> wrote:
Pictures attached. Unfortunately, there doesn't seem to be a good alternative off the shelf solutions. I've spoken to Farymann North America, Beta Marine, PYI inc, and others. The bolt pattern and pilot are simply nonstandard. I'm beginning to wonder about through bolting the whole piece to get me home, but worried about how it might hold up with the vibration of the single cylinder. The design of the coupling is supposed to account for this.
Lee
|
Re: Farymann a30 shaft coupling
Pictures attached. Unfortunately, there doesn't seem to be a good alternative off the shelf solutions. I've spoken to Farymann North America, Beta Marine, PYI inc, and others. The bolt pattern and pilot are simply nonstandard. I'm beginning to wonder about through bolting the whole piece to get me home, but worried about how it might hold up with the vibration of the single cylinder. The design of the coupling is supposed to account for this. Lee
|
Re: Farymann a30 shaft coupling
Hi Lee;
Can you get the specific dimensions of the coupling you are trying to replace.? Then try either? Grainger: | |
or McMasterCarr
Glenn
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jul 10, 2023, at 4:14 PM, lm53187 <muellerl@...> wrote:
Hi,
I'm looking for a shaft coupling for a farymann a30. It's a rubber component about 3 inches long that connects between the transmission and prop shaft. The Farymann was a common engine on the T27-2
I'm running into a lot of dead ends and coming here in case someone has repowered and has one laying around, or perhaps has solved this issue themselves.
Lee,
#663 S/V Dawn
Re: Farymann a30 shaft coupling
Do you have a picture? I have some parts laying around.?
On Mon, Jul 10, 2023 at 13:14, lm53187 <muellerl@...> wrote: Hi,
I'm looking for a shaft coupling for a farymann a30. It's a rubber component about 3 inches long that connects between the transmission and prop shaft. The Farymann was a common engine on the T27-2
I'm running into a lot of dead ends and coming here in case someone has repowered and has one laying around, or perhaps has solved this issue themselves.
Lee,
#663 S/V Dawn
|
Farymann a30 shaft coupling
Hi,
I'm looking for a shaft coupling for a farymann a30. It's a rubber component about 3 inches long that connects between the transmission and prop shaft. The Farymann was a common engine on the T27-2
I'm running into a lot of dead ends and coming here in case someone has repowered and has one laying around, or perhaps has solved this issue themselves.
Lee,
#663 S/V Dawn
|
I work with alot of professional boat haulers. They are all mystified why civilians drive there boats hard against the winch post. As they put it. The winch post has a rubber bumper incase you over shoot and hit it. The post should be well forward. There should be bow bunks or a forward keel support. The winch strap can be marked to let you know you are all the way on. Now the strap has scope so as the bow roles upward it doesn't try to rip the bow eye off. The bow is then secured to the trailer with two straps run aft from the bow down to the trailer. A winch stand will not stop the boat from coming forward during deceleration.?
--
Carl Damm
DAMSELv
1976 #593
Stuart Fl
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Re: Clear Window/Port Replacement For a 1967 Boat
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I just want to understand. The interior aluminum frame comes off and then I can take out and replace the plastic, or do both the interior and exterior aluminum frames need to be removed?
> On Apr 15, 2023, at 7:15 AM, Carl Damm <cfdamm@...> wrote:
>
> ?Debond will break down most adhesive caulk. But not silicone. Silicone is generally frownd apon because for future repairs, nothing sticks to it including new silicone. Bedit butyl tape is preferred.
> Work slowly.? Debond takes a little time. Heat can also be helpful. Putty knives. Razor knives, wood wedges. We are in the process of doing this job. Putting back laminated saftey glass.
> --
> Carl Damm
> DAMSELv
> 1976 #593
> Stuart Fl
>
>
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Re: Clear Window/Port Replacement For a 1967 Boat
I just want to understand. The interior aluminum frame comes off and then I can take out and replace the plastic, or do both the interior and exterior aluminum frames need to be removed?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Apr 15, 2023, at 7:15 AM, Carl Damm <cfdamm@...> wrote:
?Debond will break down most adhesive caulk. But not silicone. Silicone is generally frownd apon because for future repairs, nothing sticks to it including new silicone. Bedit butyl tape is preferred.
Work slowly. Debond takes a little time. Heat can also be helpful. Putty knives. Razor knives, wood wedges. We are in the process of doing this job. Putting back laminated saftey glass.
--
Carl Damm
DAMSELv
1976 #593
Stuart Fl
|
Normally you would do straight peices of stainles tubing between stanchions . Life line is straight from stanchion to stanchion.
If you are doing a continuous pipe like a motor yacht then you need to Bend it. If you lay out the stanchions carefully, each section can be identical making it easy to repair if bent.
--
Carl Damm
DAMSELv
1976 #593
Stuart Fl
|
Re: Clear Window/Port Replacement For a 1967 Boat
Debond will break down most adhesive caulk. But not silicone. Silicone is generally frownd apon because for future repairs, nothing sticks to it including new silicone. Bedit butyl tape is preferred.
Work slowly.? Debond takes a little time. Heat can also be helpful. Putty knives. Razor knives, wood wedges. We are in the process of doing this job. Putting back laminated saftey glass.
--
Carl Damm
DAMSELv
1976 #593
Stuart Fl
|
Re: Main sail cover/used genoa
Hey Peter, interested in the genoa. If you could send me your contact info, I can get in touch.?
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Main sail cover/used genoa
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Re: Clear Window/Port Replacement For a 1967 Boat
We did ours about 15 years ago. Aluminum frames pried off pretty easily. Found it fairly simple: biggest surprise was that kerosene dissolved the grey goop sealant best. Ohio built boat: maybe there are differences on the California boats. Definitely prefer the original look to the visible overlap, but that¡¯s totally subjective. Good luck!
Marty Bowen Island, BC
Scott, One excellent resource is the blog called . He details the replacement of fixed lights on I think it's a Pearson. He dispenses with the screwed frame and relies on overlapping?the plexi on the cabin house. This is what I will do if I can manage to get back to fixing my T27.
BTW, if anyone is looking for a very cheap T27, I am moving and at some point will need to find a new home for mine. While needy (fixed lights, rebed deck hdwr, CB,?rudder repair,?surface treatments, etc.) she's not a derelict. It just seems like it may be time for another skipper to love her back into the water.?
Alan
About 13 years ago I replaced mine #226. After I removed the screws, I had to gradually work the aluminum? Lipton free it up . On did start to crack so I worked slower. I used acrylic as original. I only 100% silicone. The research I did said that many other chalks will react with acrylic. Good luck.
John Bailey
> On Mar 25, 2023, at 7:03 AM, SCOTT ROSASCO via <srosa25043=[email protected]> wrote:
>
> ?
> ?
> ?Does anyone have any experience in replacing the 50+ year old, scratched and crazed porthole windows on each side of the main cabin? I got the interior screws out of the aluminum frame no problem, so now what? Seems like it would be very easy to permanently damage the thin aluminum interior frame by prying with a screwdriver. Is that just a flat frame or is it a whole window unit? Any idea what type of adhesive might be holding it all in? All I want to do is replace the clear plastic with new. I want to maintain the existing opening shapes, as they are vintage 1960¡¯s.
>
> The head port is more of a standard glass port. I could see just replacing that with new at some point.
>
>
>
>
>
>
-- Marty Levenson
registered art therapist, BA, DVATI 604-928.4033
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@svandraste