Re: Tartan 27 Centerboard Issues
One good thing is a T27 will sail quite well without the board. So this gives you the option of pulling the board. Launching the boat and enjoying her while sorting out the board on rainy cold days.
--
Carl Damm
DAMSELv
1976 #593
Stuart Fl
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Re: Roller Furling Questions
There is one model I do not like. CDI. My reason is very specific. They use a self contained halyard. Under normal headsail rigging, the halyard and the luff rope share the load with the head stay. I have scene a head stay fail and the luff rope halyard combination keep the rig standing long enough to allowr emergency? rigging repairs. With a CDI, it would be bye bye mast...
--
Carl Damm
DAMSELv
1976 #593
Stuart Fl
|
Re: Tartan 27 Centerboard Issues, Part II.
A picture would help. So my comment may be off base, but I saw this on a T27 before. The pennant should enter the front of the spool. I have scene them wound backwards where the pendant enters the backside of the spool. This would off set the hose about an inch or more.
After that I have Ideas but it depends on how severe and continuous the interference is.?
As you say, it worked for 15 years, so what changed?
A last thought. The diesel should have a belt guard that may help. There may be a stock guard available for your motor.
--
Carl Damm
DAMSELv
1976 #593
Stuart Fl
|
Re: Tartan 27 Centerboard Issues, Part II.
To be clear, I¡¯m talking about soft copper tubing, not a rigid copper pipe.
-----Original Message-----
From: Warren Stein via groups.io <wrsteinesq@...>
To: john.bailey50@... <john.bailey50@...>; [email protected] < [email protected]>
Sent: Wed, Aug 4, 2021 11:15 am
Subject: Re: [T27Owners] Tartan 27 Centerboard Issues, Part II.
And one more idea to add on to my previous email: as John has suggested, you could put some form of diverter pushing the tube away from the engine; but this has the problem of at least potentially causing the pennant to try to saw its way out of the tube, because it¡¯s no longer pulling in a straight line. Here is one possible solution to that: all the tubes I have ever seen are rubber ?hose, or something similar, and that¡¯s subject to that sawing. But what if you were to use say a copper tube? I think that it would be much less susceptible to that sawing. ? You might need to use a short length of rubber hose from the top of the center board trunk, to join onto the copper tube; but if the main run of the ¡°hose¡± was copper, and the pennant were Dyneema, I think the fact that it was not in a straight line because of the diverter would not cause nearly so much a problem.
-----Original Message-----
From: John Bailey <john.bailey50@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Wed, Aug 4, 2021 11:01 am
Subject: Re: [T27Owners] Tartan 27 Centerboard Issues, Part II.
Of course this would be temporary.
On Wed, Aug 4, 2021 at 11:01 AM John Bailey via <john.bailey50= [email protected]> wrote:
Just an idea. Perhaps?a simple 2x4 in front of the pendant real with a nylon section for the wire to slide on.
This would slightly redirect?the wire forward.
On Wed, Aug 4, 2021 at 6:43 AM Pete Rebo via <horsehideperfecto= [email protected]> wrote:
You can¡¯t put it on the large part of the reel because you will loose your mechanical advantage. ? Here are some options
1. Move engine on mounts a half inch aft.
2. See if you can rig a friction ring or block on your pendant to divert it?
3. Get rid of the board/pendant
?
?Ok. So we spent the winter repairing the centerboard and reinstalled it a few days ago. An interesting experience to be sure. We used dyneema. The new problem is that, for whatever reason, the pennant, encased in the rubber tube, now chafes against the front of the diesel engine belt drive, to the point that even after only 5 minutes of use, the tube now has a groove in it, headed for the pennant next. It¡¯s a mystery as to why this was not an issue last year or for the 15 years since the Atomic was replaced with the diesel, but has this happened to anyone else or does anyone have any ideas as to how to repair it? In particular, would like to see photos or drawings of the pennant from when it leaves the base on the floor to where it enters the reel. A simple solution might be to run the dyneema to the larger reel, which would separate it from the front of the engine, but that might lose some mechanical advantage in getting the centerboard up. Thoughts.
On Oct 22, 2020, at 5:10 PM, Scott Rosasco via <scottrosasco=[email protected]> wrote:
?
?Ok. So we followed all the suggestions and Warren¡¯s plan and dropped the whole thing. Only took 1/2 hour and some bruised fingers that the board fell on. The cable snapped as soon as the pressure from the pin was released. It will get repaired over the winter. Thanks for all the encouragement. Here are some photos and video for your amusement.
<image.jpg>
<image.jpg>
<image.jpg>
<image.jpg>
<image.jpg>
<image.jpg>
<image.jpg>
<image.jpg>
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Re: Tartan 27 Centerboard Issues, Part II.
And one more idea to add on to my previous email: as John has suggested, you could put some form of diverter pushing the tube away from the engine; but this has the problem of at least potentially causing the pennant to try to saw its way out of the tube, because it¡¯s no longer pulling in a straight line. Here is one possible solution to that: all the tubes I have ever seen are rubber ?hose, or something similar, and that¡¯s subject to that sawing. But what if you were to use say a copper tube? I think that it would be much less susceptible to that sawing. ? You might need to use a short length of rubber hose from the top of the center board trunk, to join onto the copper tube; but if the main run of the ¡°hose¡± was copper, and the pennant were Dyneema, I think the fact that it was not in a straight line because of the diverter would not cause nearly so much a problem.
-----Original Message-----
From: John Bailey <john.bailey50@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Wed, Aug 4, 2021 11:01 am
Subject: Re: [T27Owners] Tartan 27 Centerboard Issues, Part II.
Of course this would be temporary.
On Wed, Aug 4, 2021 at 11:01 AM John Bailey via <john.bailey50= [email protected]> wrote:
Just an idea. Perhaps?a simple 2x4 in front of the pendant real with a nylon section for the wire to slide on.
This would slightly redirect?the wire forward.
On Wed, Aug 4, 2021 at 6:43 AM Pete Rebo via <horsehideperfecto= [email protected]> wrote:
You can¡¯t put it on the large part of the reel because you will loose your mechanical advantage. ? Here are some options
1. Move engine on mounts a half inch aft.
2. See if you can rig a friction ring or block on your pendant to divert it?
3. Get rid of the board/pendant
?
?Ok. So we spent the winter repairing the centerboard and reinstalled it a few days ago. An interesting experience to be sure. We used dyneema. The new problem is that, for whatever reason, the pennant, encased in the rubber tube, now chafes against the front of the diesel engine belt drive, to the point that even after only 5 minutes of use, the tube now has a groove in it, headed for the pennant next. It¡¯s a mystery as to why this was not an issue last year or for the 15 years since the Atomic was replaced with the diesel, but has this happened to anyone else or does anyone have any ideas as to how to repair it? In particular, would like to see photos or drawings of the pennant from when it leaves the base on the floor to where it enters the reel. A simple solution might be to run the dyneema to the larger reel, which would separate it from the front of the engine, but that might lose some mechanical advantage in getting the centerboard up. Thoughts.
On Oct 22, 2020, at 5:10 PM, Scott Rosasco via <scottrosasco=[email protected]> wrote:
?
?Ok. So we followed all the suggestions and Warren¡¯s plan and dropped the whole thing. Only took 1/2 hour and some bruised fingers that the board fell on. The cable snapped as soon as the pressure from the pin was released. It will get repaired over the winter. Thanks for all the encouragement. Here are some photos and video for your amusement.
<image.jpg>
<image.jpg>
<image.jpg>
<image.jpg>
<image.jpg>
<image.jpg>
<image.jpg>
<image.jpg>
|
Re: Tartan 27 Centerboard Issues, Part II.
Of course this would be temporary.
On Wed, Aug 4, 2021 at 11:01 AM John Bailey via <john.bailey50= [email protected]> wrote: Just an idea. Perhaps?a simple 2x4 in front of the pendant real with a nylon section for the wire to slide on. This would slightly redirect?the wire forward.
On Wed, Aug 4, 2021 at 6:43 AM Pete Rebo via <horsehideperfecto= [email protected]> wrote: You can¡¯t put it on the large part of the reel because you will loose your mechanical advantage. ? Here are some options 1. Move engine on mounts a half inch aft. 2. See if you can rig a friction ring or block on your pendant to divert it? 3. Get rid of the board/pendant ? ?Ok. So we spent the winter repairing the centerboard and reinstalled it a few days ago. An interesting experience to be sure. We used dyneema. The new problem is that, for whatever reason, the pennant, encased in the rubber tube, now chafes against the front of the diesel engine belt drive, to the point that even after only 5 minutes of use, the tube now has a groove in it, headed for the pennant next. It¡¯s a mystery as to why this was not an issue last year or for the 15 years since the Atomic was replaced with the diesel, but has this happened to anyone else or does anyone have any ideas as to how to repair it? In particular, would like to see photos or drawings of the pennant from when it leaves the base on the floor to where it enters the reel. A simple solution might be to run the dyneema to the larger reel, which would separate it from the front of the engine, but that might lose some mechanical advantage in getting the centerboard up. Thoughts. On Oct 22, 2020, at 5:10 PM, Scott Rosasco via <scottrosasco=[email protected]> wrote:
? ?Ok. So we followed all the suggestions and Warren¡¯s plan and dropped the whole thing. Only took 1/2 hour and some bruised fingers that the board fell on. The cable snapped as soon as the pressure from the pin was released. It will get repaired over the winter. Thanks for all the encouragement. Here are some photos and video for your amusement.
<image.jpg> <image.jpg> <image.jpg> <image.jpg> <image.jpg> <image.jpg> <image.jpg> <image.jpg>
|
Re: Tartan 27 Centerboard Issues, Part II.
Just an idea. Perhaps?a simple 2x4 in front of the pendant real with a nylon section for the wire to slide on. This would slightly redirect?the wire forward.
On Wed, Aug 4, 2021 at 6:43 AM Pete Rebo via <horsehideperfecto= [email protected]> wrote: You can¡¯t put it on the large part of the reel because you will loose your mechanical advantage. ? Here are some options 1. Move engine on mounts a half inch aft. 2. See if you can rig a friction ring or block on your pendant to divert it? 3. Get rid of the board/pendant ? ?Ok. So we spent the winter repairing the centerboard and reinstalled it a few days ago. An interesting experience to be sure. We used dyneema. The new problem is that, for whatever reason, the pennant, encased in the rubber tube, now chafes against the front of the diesel engine belt drive, to the point that even after only 5 minutes of use, the tube now has a groove in it, headed for the pennant next. It¡¯s a mystery as to why this was not an issue last year or for the 15 years since the Atomic was replaced with the diesel, but has this happened to anyone else or does anyone have any ideas as to how to repair it? In particular, would like to see photos or drawings of the pennant from when it leaves the base on the floor to where it enters the reel. A simple solution might be to run the dyneema to the larger reel, which would separate it from the front of the engine, but that might lose some mechanical advantage in getting the centerboard up. Thoughts. On Oct 22, 2020, at 5:10 PM, Scott Rosasco via <scottrosasco=[email protected]> wrote:
? ?Ok. So we followed all the suggestions and Warren¡¯s plan and dropped the whole thing. Only took 1/2 hour and some bruised fingers that the board fell on. The cable snapped as soon as the pressure from the pin was released. It will get repaired over the winter. Thanks for all the encouragement. Here are some photos and video for your amusement.
<image.jpg> <image.jpg> <image.jpg> <image.jpg> <image.jpg> <image.jpg> <image.jpg> <image.jpg>
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Re: Tartan 27 Centerboard Issues, Part II.
Might you be able to post a photo so we can all better see the problem? To Pete¡¯s points: ?
?
1. ?It sounds like moving the engine aft might work, but you would likely have to shorten the prop shaft because we have limited clearance in the propeller aperture. ?Maybe you might get lucky and find that there is enough room in the prop shaft coupling to slide the shaft forward in the coupling and so avoid having to shorten the shaft. ?I¡¯m saying, it¡¯s at least possible that the propeller shaft forward end does not presently go all the way through the prop shaft coupling and fetch up hard against the engine output flange. ? Certainly a pain in the ass, but it¡¯s one possible solution.?
2. ?Maybe some form of standoff, perhaps mounted on the engine, might allow for the diverter, holding the tube forward and away from the engine. The problem is, then the line will no longer be straight between the winch and the tube on top of the center board trunk; and this may create internal chafing in the tube, with the pennant trying to saw its way out.
3. ?Giving up on the use of the center board sounds draconian to me.
A fourth idea: is there enough room in your configuration to allow moving the mounts, and thus the pivot, for the center board winch, to move forward? ?Maybe you might have to fabricate new mounts, but it¡¯s not too hard to get to. ?Pete is correct that you can¡¯t put the pennant ?on the large side of the centerboard winch pulley. Not only would you have reversed your mechanical advantage, i.e. turned it into mechanical disadvantage; but the greater length of the control line, the one which exits into the cockpit, will almost certainly not fit on the smaller side.
A fifth idea: ?But maybe you might be able to reverse the orientation of the pulley, i.e. turn it 180 degrees, while still on the same mounts, so the small side of the pulley and the big side have changed sides. ?Without a picture I have no way of knowing if that little bit of movement of the pennant would be enough to avoid the rubbing problem, but it might. ? It¡¯s true, this would mean that the centerboard control line would no longer feed smoothly onto the bigger side of the pulley; but either it might still feed well enough¡ª-OR you could move the exit hole into the cockpit. ?
-----Original Message-----
From: Pete Rebo via groups.io <horsehideperfecto@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Wed, Aug 4, 2021 6:40 am
Subject: Re: [T27Owners] Tartan 27 Centerboard Issues, Part II.
You can¡¯t put it on the large part of the reel because you will loose your mechanical advantage. ? Here are some options
1. Move engine on mounts a half inch aft.
2. See if you can rig a friction ring or block on your pendant to divert it?
3. Get rid of the board/pendant
On Aug 3, 2021, at 8:09 PM, Scott Rosasco <scottrosasco@...> wrote:
?
Ok. So we spent the winter repairing the centerboard and reinstalled it a few days ago. An interesting experience to be sure. We used dyneema. The new problem is that, for whatever reason, the pennant, encased in the rubber tube, now chafes against the front of the diesel engine belt drive, to the point that even after only 5 minutes of use, the tube now has a groove in it, headed for the pennant next. It¡¯s a mystery as to why this was not an issue last year or for the 15 years since the Atomic was replaced with the diesel, but has this happened to anyone else or does anyone have any ideas as to how to repair it? In particular, would like to see photos or drawings of the pennant from when it leaves the base on the floor to where it enters the reel. A simple solution might be to run the dyneema to the larger reel, which would separate it from the front of the engine, but that might lose some mechanical advantage in getting the centerboard up. Thoughts.
On Oct 22, 2020, at 5:10 PM, Scott Rosasco via groups.io <scottrosasco@...> wrote:
?
?Ok. So we followed all the suggestions and Warren¡¯s plan and dropped the whole thing. Only took 1/2 hour and some bruised fingers that the board fell on. The cable snapped as soon as the pressure from the pin was released. It will get repaired over the winter. Thanks for all the encouragement. Here are some photos and video for your amusement.
<image.jpg>
<image.jpg>
<image.jpg>
<image.jpg>
<image.jpg>
<image.jpg>
<image.jpg>
<image.jpg>
|
Re: Tartan 27 Centerboard Issues, Part II.
You can¡¯t put it on the large part of the reel because you will loose your mechanical advantage. ? Here are some options 1. Move engine on mounts a half inch aft. 2. See if you can rig a friction ring or block on your pendant to divert it? 3. Get rid of the board/pendant
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Show quoted text
On Aug 3, 2021, at 8:09 PM, Scott Rosasco <scottrosasco@...> wrote:
? ? Ok. So we spent the winter repairing the centerboard and reinstalled it a few days ago. An interesting experience to be sure. We used dyneema. The new problem is that, for whatever reason, the pennant, encased in the rubber tube, now chafes against the front of the diesel engine belt drive, to the point that even after only 5 minutes of use, the tube now has a groove in it, headed for the pennant next. It¡¯s a mystery as to why this was not an issue last year or for the 15 years since the Atomic was replaced with the diesel, but has this happened to anyone else or does anyone have any ideas as to how to repair it? In particular, would like to see photos or drawings of the pennant from when it leaves the base on the floor to where it enters the reel. A simple solution might be to run the dyneema to the larger reel, which would separate it from the front of the engine, but that might lose some mechanical advantage in getting the centerboard up. Thoughts. On Oct 22, 2020, at 5:10 PM, Scott Rosasco via groups.io <scottrosasco@...> wrote:
? ?Ok. So we followed all the suggestions and Warren¡¯s plan and dropped the whole thing. Only took 1/2 hour and some bruised fingers that the board fell on. The cable snapped as soon as the pressure from the pin was released. It will get repaired over the winter. Thanks for all the encouragement. Here are some photos and video for your amusement.
<image.jpg> <image.jpg> <image.jpg> <image.jpg> <image.jpg> <image.jpg> <image.jpg> <image.jpg>
|
Tartan 27 Centerboard Issues, Part II.
? Ok. So we spent the winter repairing the centerboard and reinstalled it a few days ago. An interesting experience to be sure. We used dyneema. The new problem is that, for whatever reason, the pennant, encased in the rubber tube, now chafes against the front of the diesel engine belt drive, to the point that even after only 5 minutes of use, the tube now has a groove in it, headed for the pennant next. It¡¯s a mystery as to why this was not an issue last year or for the 15 years since the Atomic was replaced with the diesel, but has this happened to anyone else or does anyone have any ideas as to how to repair it? In particular, would like to see photos or drawings of the pennant from when it leaves the base on the floor to where it enters the reel. A simple solution might be to run the dyneema to the larger reel, which would separate it from the front of the engine, but that might lose some mechanical advantage in getting the centerboard up. Thoughts.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Oct 22, 2020, at 5:10 PM, Scott Rosasco via groups.io <scottrosasco@...> wrote:
? ?Ok. So we followed all the suggestions and Warren¡¯s plan and dropped the whole thing. Only took 1/2 hour and some bruised fingers that the board fell on. The cable snapped as soon as the pressure from the pin was released. It will get repaired over the winter. Thanks for all the encouragement. Here are some photos and video for your amusement.
       
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Re: Asymmetrical Spinnaker
Chris Ranney from Tartan should be able to give you the dimensions. He has one that he uses to great effect on his T-27.
Chip E
On Friday, July 16, 2021, 11:14:09 AM EDT, lm53187 <muellerl@...> wrote:
I've been eyeing asymmetrical spinnakers for a couple of years. Any opinions on dimensions or what other boat models have similar sails (so I can browse the used market effectively)? I'm a little lost...
From a random note I left myself, it seems like the measurements are 33 on the luff and 17 on the foot. I'm finding a lot of used options that are shorter on the leech and longer on the foot. Having limited experience with these sails, I'm not sure what direction to go.?
Any advice?
|
I've been eyeing asymmetrical spinnakers for a couple of years. Any opinions on dimensions or what other boat models have similar sails (so I can browse the used market effectively)? I'm a little lost...
From a random note I left myself, it seems like the measurements are 33 on the luff and 17 on the foot. I'm finding a lot of used options that are shorter on the leech and longer on the foot. Having limited experience with these sails, I'm not sure what direction to go.?
Any advice?
|
Re: estimate, Tartan 27 mainsail
Thanks Scott
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On Jul 12, 2021, at 10:22 AM, aksjghkajshd <scott@...> wrote:
?#93 came with heavy cruising duty sails by Hogan Sails of Alameda.
I asked for an estimate recently from then again and given
$2295 for the mainsail. I don't know what weight of dacron
it is but it looks like it's twice as heavy as the 7oz dacron
70% jib I tore in half last week.
Had a confusing exchange with Rolly Tasker. I measured foot
and luff of the boat, not the sail, and came up with almost
exactly official numbers, which exactly match the sails that
they had in inventory for the T27, but wouldn't accept that,
instead demanding that I measure the sail itself, which
is stretched to the point where I can't outhaul it any more
and the gooseneck is all of the way down. I couldn't get
clarification from them on whether if I gave them stretched
sail measurements, if they leave room for uphaul and downhaul.
So leaning towards paying more. Mailed a dozen outfits in
the SF Bay Area and only Pinneaple and Hogan responded and
Pinneaple, despite running ads in all of the local rags,
just responded that they're busy right now.
So I guess tl;dr Hogan is an option and they make sturdy
sails.
-scott
On 0, "Glenn Pearson via groups.io" <Bigisland27@...> wrote:
Hello All,
I blew out my mainsail yesterday. The sails were old but it was still shocking to see the threads and the sail in two tattered pieces. I was gusting up pretty good right when I was raising it up. I thought I might have caught a batten in lazy jack lines but it didn¡¯t split until I was back at the tiller.
The lazy jack line was let all the way out but I always found the battens catching on it. I prompted cut the lazy jack lines and tied the cables around the rigging. I never really felt they were that useful and I don¡¯t want that to happen to the next sail. I don¡¯t know??
Anyway I am in the market for a mainsail as well. My wife said she would like a blue or red mainsail. I have never purchased a sail so I have no idea what I am getting into here.
I went online and there are several sail makers out there. Most seem to want to quote without a price online. I saw a price from Southeastasiasails.com for $1088¡didn¡¯t know if anyone had experience with their sails.
Any suggestions or comments would be very appreciated.
PS. After dropping the main we raised the 176% Genoa and sailed along pretty good for several hours at hull speed. Fun time!!
Thanks Glenn Pearson
Isla Bleu hull 688
On Jun 15, 2021, at 6:38 PM, aksjghkajshd <scott@...> wrote: ?Appreciate the suggestion. I took second once in light airs where other
boats didn't know to slack outhaul for a more full draft and ironically their
non-blown-out sails were working against them.
thesailwarehouse.com had a couple of T-27 sails I was eyeing just a year
ago but had other projects ahead in the queue. Congrats to whoever
landed those.
Hogan made the sails she came with and I emailed them yesterday and a
few other places the last week. I'll report back with whatever I do.
Maybe I'll order a kit and lock myself in the attic all winter hand
stitching it with silk thread while mumbling to myself.
I'll put in a quote request since they don't have anything in stock.
A couple of quotes would be nice.
-scott
#93
On 0, "Caleb Davison via groups.io" <calebjess@...> wrote:
Scott,
The loose footed full battened main sail I bought from Rolly Tasker
(thesailwarehouse.com). I seem to recall that it cost me about $1800
- that must be almost 10 years ago though.
The loose footed aspect of the sail really improved our ability to
shape the sail since we really had to make our outhaul work to flatten
the sail. Loose footed = No bolt rope.
The new main allowed us to actually sometimes finish our races in 1st
place when we were normally the back of the pack with the old blown out
main.
Caleb D
T27 #328
-----Original Message-----
From: aksjghkajshd <scott@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Mon, Jun 14, 2021 9:51 pm
Subject: [T27Owners] estimate, Tartan 27 mainsail
Hello,
I'm shopping for new mainsails for this old Tartan 27!
Some medium weight suitable for our winds but not
necessarily cruising weight.
P: 30.50 ft, E: 13.50 ft, from sailboatdata.
Two reefing points.
5/8" external sliders (measured 0.67" wide on the track).
3/8" boltrope foot.
2" cutback on tack.
Let me know what you think.
Cheers,
-scott
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Re: estimate, Tartan 27 mainsail
I too bought a Rolly Tasker main last year. They sent the sail to me with the wrong size bolt rope, but were very easy to work with to resolve the issue. Very satisfied. About 6 years ago I bought a RF jib that has been an excellent sail. #226 Kiltie?
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Show quoted text
On Jul 12, 2021, at 12:35 PM, Brent Bass <BJBass@...> wrote:
? Here is my invoice for my main from Precision Sails in Vancouver from summer 2017. I love the sail. They send a form with specific instructions for key measurements, which I completed, and they sent the completed sail and it fit like a glove. It was less than $1,700 delivered and would fully recommend them/order from them again. I believe the fabric I got, in their current terms, is the tri-radial dacron. On Mon, Jul 12, 2021 at 11:22 AM aksjghkajshd < scott@...> wrote: #93 came with heavy cruising duty sails by Hogan Sails of Alameda.
I asked for an estimate recently from then again and given
$2295 for the mainsail.? I don't know what weight of dacron
it is but it looks like it's twice as heavy as the 7oz dacron
70% jib I tore in half last week.
Had a confusing exchange with Rolly Tasker.? I measured foot
and luff of the boat, not the sail, and came up with almost
exactly official numbers, which exactly match the sails that
they had in inventory for the T27, but wouldn't accept that,
instead demanding that I measure the sail itself, which
is stretched to the point where I can't outhaul it any more
and the gooseneck is all of the way down.? I couldn't get
clarification from them on whether if I gave them stretched
sail measurements, if they leave room for uphaul and downhaul.
So leaning towards paying more.? Mailed a dozen outfits in
the SF Bay Area and only Pinneaple and Hogan responded and
Pinneaple, despite running ads in all of the local rags,
just responded that they're busy right now.
So I guess tl;dr Hogan is an option and they make sturdy
sails.
-scott
On? 0, "Glenn Pearson via " <Bigisland27=[email protected]> wrote:
> Hello All,
>
> I blew out my mainsail yesterday.? The sails were old but it was still shocking to see the threads and the sail in two tattered pieces.? I was gusting up pretty good right when I was raising it up.? I thought I might have caught a batten in lazy jack lines but it didn¡¯t split until I was back at the tiller.
>
> The lazy jack line was let all the way out but I always found the battens catching on it.? I prompted cut the lazy jack lines and tied the cables around the rigging.? I never really felt they were that useful and I don¡¯t want that to happen to the next sail.? I don¡¯t know??
>
> Anyway I am in the market for a mainsail as well.? My wife said she would like a blue or red mainsail.? I have never purchased a sail so I have no idea what I am getting into here.
>
> I went online and there are several sail makers out there.? Most seem to want to quote without a price online.? I saw a price from Southeastasiasails.com for $1088¡didn¡¯t know if anyone had experience with their sails.
>
> Any suggestions or comments would be very appreciated.
>
> PS.? After dropping the main we raised the 176% Genoa and sailed along pretty good for several hours at hull speed.? Fun time!!
>
> Thanks Glenn Pearson
> Isla Bleu hull 688
> > On Jun 15, 2021, at 6:38 PM, aksjghkajshd <scott@...> wrote:
> >
> > ?Appreciate the suggestion.? I took second once in light airs where other
> > boats didn't know to slack outhaul for a more full draft and ironically their
> > non-blown-out sails were working against them.
> >
> > had a couple of T-27 sails I was eyeing just a year
> > ago but had other projects ahead in the queue.? Congrats to whoever
> > landed those.
> >
> > Hogan made the sails she came with and I emailed them yesterday and a
> > few other places the last week.? I'll report back with whatever I do.
> >
> > Maybe I'll order a kit and lock myself in the attic all winter hand
> > stitching it with silk thread while mumbling to myself.
> >
> > I'll put in a quote request since they don't have anything in stock.
> > A couple of quotes would be nice.
> >
> > -scott
> > #93
> >
> >> On? 0, "Caleb Davison via " <calebjess=[email protected]> wrote:
> >>? ?Scott,
> >>? ?The? loose footed full battened main sail I bought from Rolly Tasker
> >>? ?().? ?I seem to recall that it cost me about $1800
> >>? ?- that must be almost 10 years ago though.
> >>? ?The loose footed aspect of the sail really improved our ability to
> >>? ?shape the sail since we really had to make our outhaul work to flatten
> >>? ?the sail.? Loose footed = No bolt rope.
> >>? ?The new main allowed us to actually sometimes finish our races in 1st
> >>? ?place when we were normally the back of the pack with the old blown out
> >>? ?main.
> >>? ?Caleb D
> >>? ?T27 #328
> >>? ?-----Original Message-----
> >>? ?From: aksjghkajshd <scott@...>
> >>? ?To: [email protected]
> >>? ?Sent: Mon, Jun 14, 2021 9:51 pm
> >>? ?Subject: [T27Owners] estimate, Tartan 27 mainsail
> >>? ?Hello,
> >>? ?I'm shopping for new mainsails for this old Tartan 27!
> >>? ?Some medium weight suitable for our winds but not
> >>? ?necessarily cruising weight.
> >>? ?P: 30.50 ft, E: 13.50 ft, from sailboatdata.
> >>? ?Two reefing points.
> >>? ?5/8" external sliders (measured 0.67" wide on the track).
> >>? ?3/8" boltrope foot.
> >>? ?2" cutback on tack.
> >>? ?Let me know what you think.
> >>? ?Cheers,
> >>? ?-scott
> >
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
|
Re: Roller Furling Questions
Thanks for the reply. After posting this I called the Pompanette HQ and was
transferred to a very helpful lady. I was able to order my parts. I hope
the furler works well after I get them installed. It's an older one so I am
still interested to hear what other T27 Owners are using as I may upgrade to
new when I do a major refit over this coming winter.
Paul
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
-----Original Message----- From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of aksjghkajshd Sent: Monday, July 12, 2021 1:03 PM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [T27Owners] Roller Furling Questions Can you find a Hood distrbutor who is authorized by Hood to operate in your area? That would be their domain. I've been very happy with my Harken Mark III Unit 0 (3rd generation, smallest keelboat size) roller furler. Mark IV is current generation. Boat yard bent one of the foil pieces and the rigging outfit wanted to replace the Mk III with a Mk IV because they didn't want to track down a Mk III foil even though they are a Harken distributor/dealer so probably kind of a jerk move but I tracked down Mk III foil from a different distributor and had it shipped to them to save having to replace the whole thing just yet. Trying to sort this out, I did also email Harken trying to figure out what was still supported and which size I had (funny how marine hardware never actually has a part number on it) and got a reply so props to Harken for customer service. Cheers, -scott On 0, "Denali #158 via groups.io" <paevola@...> wrote: I have a Hood 810 Seafurl LD on my boat. This is a new boat to me and
the roller furling is missing a couple of parts. I have reached out to
Hood to see if I can buy the parts I need but so far they haven't
responded. My next step would be to bite the bullet and buy a new
roller furling. I'd like to get some recommendations from the forum
here as to what you have and how yours has worked for you. If you can
recommend a roller furler that is currently in production that would be
helpful.
Thanks,
Paul
|
Re: Roller Furling Questions
Can you find a Hood distrbutor who is authorized by Hood to operate
in your area? That would be their domain.
I've been very happy with my Harken Mark III Unit 0 (3rd generation,
smallest keelboat size) roller furler. Mark IV is current generation.
Boat yard bent one of the foil pieces and the rigging outfit wanted
to replace the Mk III with a Mk IV because they didn't want to track
down a Mk III foil even though they are a Harken distributor/dealer
so probably kind of a jerk move but I tracked down Mk III foil from
a different distributor and had it shipped to them to save having
to replace the whole thing just yet. Trying to sort this out, I
did also email Harken trying to figure out what was still supported
and which size I had (funny how marine hardware never actually has
a part number on it) and got a reply so props to Harken for
customer service.
Cheers,
-scott
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 0, "Denali #158 via groups.io" <paevola@...> wrote: I have a Hood 810 Seafurl LD on my boat. This is a new boat to me and
the roller furling is missing a couple of parts. I have reached out to
Hood to see if I can buy the parts I need but so far they haven't
responded. My next step would be to bite the bullet and buy a new
roller furling. I'd like to get some recommendations from the forum
here as to what you have and how yours has worked for you. If you can
recommend a roller furler that is currently in production that would be
helpful.
Thanks,
Paul
|
I have a Hood 810 Seafurl LD on my boat.? This is a new boat to me and the roller furling is missing a couple of parts.? I have reached out to Hood to see if I can buy the parts I need but so far they haven't responded.? My next step would be to bite the bullet and buy a new roller furling.? I'd like to get some recommendations from the forum here as to what you have and how yours has worked for you.? If you can recommend a roller furler that is currently in production that would be helpful.??
Thanks,
Paul
|
Re: estimate, Tartan 27 mainsail
Here is my invoice for my main from Precision Sails in Vancouver from summer 2017. I love the sail. They send a form with specific instructions for key measurements, which I completed, and they sent the completed sail and it fit like a glove. It was less than $1,700 delivered and would fully recommend them/order from them again. I believe the fabric I got, in their current terms, is the tri-radial dacron.
On Mon, Jul 12, 2021 at 11:22 AM aksjghkajshd < scott@...> wrote: #93 came with heavy cruising duty sails by Hogan Sails of Alameda.
I asked for an estimate recently from then again and given
$2295 for the mainsail.? I don't know what weight of dacron
it is but it looks like it's twice as heavy as the 7oz dacron
70% jib I tore in half last week.
Had a confusing exchange with Rolly Tasker.? I measured foot
and luff of the boat, not the sail, and came up with almost
exactly official numbers, which exactly match the sails that
they had in inventory for the T27, but wouldn't accept that,
instead demanding that I measure the sail itself, which
is stretched to the point where I can't outhaul it any more
and the gooseneck is all of the way down.? I couldn't get
clarification from them on whether if I gave them stretched
sail measurements, if they leave room for uphaul and downhaul.
So leaning towards paying more.? Mailed a dozen outfits in
the SF Bay Area and only Pinneaple and Hogan responded and
Pinneaple, despite running ads in all of the local rags,
just responded that they're busy right now.
So I guess tl;dr Hogan is an option and they make sturdy
sails.
-scott
On? 0, "Glenn Pearson via " <Bigisland27=[email protected]> wrote:
> Hello All,
>
> I blew out my mainsail yesterday.? The sails were old but it was still shocking to see the threads and the sail in two tattered pieces.? I was gusting up pretty good right when I was raising it up.? I thought I might have caught a batten in lazy jack lines but it didn¡¯t split until I was back at the tiller.
>
> The lazy jack line was let all the way out but I always found the battens catching on it.? I prompted cut the lazy jack lines and tied the cables around the rigging.? I never really felt they were that useful and I don¡¯t want that to happen to the next sail.? I don¡¯t know??
>
> Anyway I am in the market for a mainsail as well.? My wife said she would like a blue or red mainsail.? I have never purchased a sail so I have no idea what I am getting into here.
>
> I went online and there are several sail makers out there.? Most seem to want to quote without a price online.? I saw a price from Southeastasiasails.com for $1088¡didn¡¯t know if anyone had experience with their sails.
>
> Any suggestions or comments would be very appreciated.
>
> PS.? After dropping the main we raised the 176% Genoa and sailed along pretty good for several hours at hull speed.? Fun time!!
>
> Thanks Glenn Pearson
> Isla Bleu hull 688
> > On Jun 15, 2021, at 6:38 PM, aksjghkajshd <scott@...> wrote:
> >
> > ?Appreciate the suggestion.? I took second once in light airs where other
> > boats didn't know to slack outhaul for a more full draft and ironically their
> > non-blown-out sails were working against them.
> >
> > had a couple of T-27 sails I was eyeing just a year
> > ago but had other projects ahead in the queue.? Congrats to whoever
> > landed those.
> >
> > Hogan made the sails she came with and I emailed them yesterday and a
> > few other places the last week.? I'll report back with whatever I do.
> >
> > Maybe I'll order a kit and lock myself in the attic all winter hand
> > stitching it with silk thread while mumbling to myself.
> >
> > I'll put in a quote request since they don't have anything in stock.
> > A couple of quotes would be nice.
> >
> > -scott
> > #93
> >
> >> On? 0, "Caleb Davison via " <calebjess=[email protected]> wrote:
> >>? ?Scott,
> >>? ?The? loose footed full battened main sail I bought from Rolly Tasker
> >>? ?().? ?I seem to recall that it cost me about $1800
> >>? ?- that must be almost 10 years ago though.
> >>? ?The loose footed aspect of the sail really improved our ability to
> >>? ?shape the sail since we really had to make our outhaul work to flatten
> >>? ?the sail.? Loose footed = No bolt rope.
> >>? ?The new main allowed us to actually sometimes finish our races in 1st
> >>? ?place when we were normally the back of the pack with the old blown out
> >>? ?main.
> >>? ?Caleb D
> >>? ?T27 #328
> >>? ?-----Original Message-----
> >>? ?From: aksjghkajshd <scott@...>
> >>? ?To: [email protected]
> >>? ?Sent: Mon, Jun 14, 2021 9:51 pm
> >>? ?Subject: [T27Owners] estimate, Tartan 27 mainsail
> >>? ?Hello,
> >>? ?I'm shopping for new mainsails for this old Tartan 27!
> >>? ?Some medium weight suitable for our winds but not
> >>? ?necessarily cruising weight.
> >>? ?P: 30.50 ft, E: 13.50 ft, from sailboatdata.
> >>? ?Two reefing points.
> >>? ?5/8" external sliders (measured 0.67" wide on the track).
> >>? ?3/8" boltrope foot.
> >>? ?2" cutback on tack.
> >>? ?Let me know what you think.
> >>? ?Cheers,
> >>? ?-scott
> >
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
|
Re: estimate, Tartan 27 mainsail
#93 came with heavy cruising duty sails by Hogan Sails of Alameda.
I asked for an estimate recently from then again and given
$2295 for the mainsail. I don't know what weight of dacron
it is but it looks like it's twice as heavy as the 7oz dacron
70% jib I tore in half last week.
Had a confusing exchange with Rolly Tasker. I measured foot
and luff of the boat, not the sail, and came up with almost
exactly official numbers, which exactly match the sails that
they had in inventory for the T27, but wouldn't accept that,
instead demanding that I measure the sail itself, which
is stretched to the point where I can't outhaul it any more
and the gooseneck is all of the way down. I couldn't get
clarification from them on whether if I gave them stretched
sail measurements, if they leave room for uphaul and downhaul.
So leaning towards paying more. Mailed a dozen outfits in
the SF Bay Area and only Pinneaple and Hogan responded and
Pinneaple, despite running ads in all of the local rags,
just responded that they're busy right now.
So I guess tl;dr Hogan is an option and they make sturdy
sails.
-scott
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 0, "Glenn Pearson via groups.io" <Bigisland27@...> wrote: Hello All,
I blew out my mainsail yesterday. The sails were old but it was still shocking to see the threads and the sail in two tattered pieces. I was gusting up pretty good right when I was raising it up. I thought I might have caught a batten in lazy jack lines but it didn¡¯t split until I was back at the tiller.
The lazy jack line was let all the way out but I always found the battens catching on it. I prompted cut the lazy jack lines and tied the cables around the rigging. I never really felt they were that useful and I don¡¯t want that to happen to the next sail. I don¡¯t know??
Anyway I am in the market for a mainsail as well. My wife said she would like a blue or red mainsail. I have never purchased a sail so I have no idea what I am getting into here.
I went online and there are several sail makers out there. Most seem to want to quote without a price online. I saw a price from Southeastasiasails.com for $1088¡didn¡¯t know if anyone had experience with their sails.
Any suggestions or comments would be very appreciated.
PS. After dropping the main we raised the 176% Genoa and sailed along pretty good for several hours at hull speed. Fun time!!
Thanks Glenn Pearson
Isla Bleu hull 688
On Jun 15, 2021, at 6:38 PM, aksjghkajshd <scott@...> wrote:
?Appreciate the suggestion. I took second once in light airs where other
boats didn't know to slack outhaul for a more full draft and ironically their
non-blown-out sails were working against them.
thesailwarehouse.com had a couple of T-27 sails I was eyeing just a year
ago but had other projects ahead in the queue. Congrats to whoever
landed those.
Hogan made the sails she came with and I emailed them yesterday and a
few other places the last week. I'll report back with whatever I do.
Maybe I'll order a kit and lock myself in the attic all winter hand
stitching it with silk thread while mumbling to myself.
I'll put in a quote request since they don't have anything in stock.
A couple of quotes would be nice.
-scott
#93
On 0, "Caleb Davison via groups.io" <calebjess@...> wrote:
Scott,
The loose footed full battened main sail I bought from Rolly Tasker
(thesailwarehouse.com). I seem to recall that it cost me about $1800
- that must be almost 10 years ago though.
The loose footed aspect of the sail really improved our ability to
shape the sail since we really had to make our outhaul work to flatten
the sail. Loose footed = No bolt rope.
The new main allowed us to actually sometimes finish our races in 1st
place when we were normally the back of the pack with the old blown out
main.
Caleb D
T27 #328
-----Original Message-----
From: aksjghkajshd <scott@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Mon, Jun 14, 2021 9:51 pm
Subject: [T27Owners] estimate, Tartan 27 mainsail
Hello,
I'm shopping for new mainsails for this old Tartan 27!
Some medium weight suitable for our winds but not
necessarily cruising weight.
P: 30.50 ft, E: 13.50 ft, from sailboatdata.
Two reefing points.
5/8" external sliders (measured 0.67" wide on the track).
3/8" boltrope foot.
2" cutback on tack.
Let me know what you think.
Cheers,
-scott
|
Re: estimate, Tartan 27 mainsail
We purchased a new main for Dawn (#663) in 2019 via National Sail (Rolly Tasker -- another off-shore loft). We also got several quotes from some of the more well-known domestic lofts, but pricing was 50-75% higher. Ultimately, I think the total from National came to about $1400, with shipping. We're pretty happy with the results. The downside is, of course, you're on the hook for a bit more of the work yourself (i.e. measuring the rig for the sail). Whereas, the local and domestic lofts will do this work for you to ensure fit.?
|
Glenn Pearson
Denali #158