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Re: Tired of my outboard

 

If you don't need large capacity, your outboard fuel tank should be
fine. Strap it down. Fuel level sender won't work but don't sweat
the small stuff.

Don't know if the A4 still has its transmission attached (hope so),
but then you're looking at a prop, cutlass bearings, packing gland,
and shaft. Hopefully a salvage operation can help with some of those.
I'm lucky in that PO had a bunch of work done there.

Appreciate the update. Can commiserate.

-scott

On 11/9/17, blevack@... [T27Owners] <T27Owners@...> wrote:
kinda tired of my outboard, and since I am not a rich man. I jumped on an
almost free (insert snicker here) Atomic 4. $100. 99% complete and it turns
over from a 1968 Catalina. The owner got a hot deal on a running Yanmar.
One of the previous owners had ripped out my engine and installed a real
nice outboard mount. So I have gauges which may or may not work and a
throttle cable. No fuel tank.
The basic plan is to run a compression test. If that is good then spruce
up the paint job, fix the broken bits and give it a go. IF not, well we will
see.
Windfall will need to come out of the water next year anyway for more
bottom paint and fixing a few blisters.
I plan on replacing the thru hulls at that time.
Like Johnny Cash, I am building(rebuilding) her "One Piece At a Time".
Stay tuned at this channel for more updates and hilarity. oh, and I have
the new teak for the rails to replace this January. Already cut to size.


Brian
SV Windfall #275


Tired of my outboard

 

kinda tired of my outboard, and since I am not a rich man. I jumped on an almost free (insert snicker here) Atomic 4. $100. 99% complete and it turns over from a 1968 Catalina. The owner got a hot deal on a running Yanmar.

?One of the previous owners had ripped out my engine and installed a real nice outboard mount. So I have gauges which may or may not work and a throttle cable. No fuel tank.

? ?The basic plan is to run a compression test. If that is good then spruce up the paint job, fix the broken bits and give it a go. IF not, well we will see.

? ?Windfall will need to come out of the water next year anyway for more bottom paint and fixing a few blisters.?

I plan on replacing the thru hulls at that time.

? ?Like Johnny Cash, I am building(rebuilding) her "One Piece At a Time".

Stay tuned at this channel for more updates and hilarity.? oh, and I have the new teak for the rails to replace this January. Already cut to size.


Brian

SV Windfall #275


Re: Hull 93, Free Spirit, projects

 

Hello Scott,


Quite a project/story! Thank you for sharing. The last sail sounded really nice, except for the running aground part. The projects never end, but that is part of the fun, at least in hindsight. I do have electric in my Tartan 27-2, and I like it. I have no regrets.I just put mine on the market so I cannot attest to resale (We found a good deal on a bigger boat). Ours is a 7.5 kw kit, which is adequate. Since you have a strong current, I would not go less than that. I would think the 10KW would be better. We have about 5 seasons on it, including some really nice winter sails. Good luck, keep us posted!


Fred Liesegang

#662 Eagle



Hull 93, Free Spirit, projects

 

Still sending my blog here because everyone else cares even less.

With so many minor and major problems, I'm doing a bad job of caring about things I should care about.
One of those is a water leak in the exhaust manifold. I was confused how water was even getting to
the exhaust manifold from looking at the Kubota Z500 manual but then looking at the Universal 5411
diagrams, it's plain as day that a small section of hose goes from the head to there and then it
is supposed to send the water exclusively to a thermostat that either recycles it to the intake
or sends it to the jet in the riser. Where the water was leaking was at the exhaust pipe out of
the exhaust manifold, which is bad, because that means water was getting into the exhaust before
the riser. Bloody elle... before that I thought, oh, it's just a dribble, I'll deal with it
eventually. As a stop-gap, I re-routed the engine head water output straight to the riser jet,
bypassing the exhaust header and thermostate, but then the engine started to get hot after run for
a while which may be related to the diesel exhaust filling the cabin as it leaked back out the same
way water was leaking in in the water jacket in the exhaust header, but then out the wide open cooling
water nipple. Lack of backpressure could make things hot (does on gas, assume diesel is the
same, guess I should Google it) but bypassing the thermostat certainly shouldn't. Stuff is
pretty solidly bodged right now. Trying to figure out how much oil pressure I can recover
before popping $700 for an exhaust header and the associated hardware. I'm also flirting with
the idea of having a machine shop fabricate an exhaust header without a water cooling jacket.
The 5411 is seawater cooled which should also be fixed assuming things aren't wrecked.

Oh yeah, also oil pressure isn't fantastic so I need to look at the rocker arm adjustments and the
oil pressure valve. A new oil filter helped a bit but not enough.

Engine starts great but smells like the devil at any throttle at all with the exhaust/water leaking
so I'm really not sure how wrecked it actually is.

Then one of the injector pumps started leaking diesel outside the engine (unlike in the other recent
diesel thread) but a sink O-ring from Ace Hardware seems to have fixed that. I'd have gotten two,
one for each cylinder, but they only had one left, so it's on my Christmas list now. It's a
Danco stock number 35728B 3/4" x 9/16" x 3/32 #11.

There's a Kubota Z500 engine on eBay right now for $1250 I'm tempted to pick up.

.. but then after the disguesting oil caked bilge (I did fix the major oil leak but there's
evidence of another oil dribble) and the noxious exhaust and the diesel leak, I am all sorts of
thinking of going electric. It'll wreck my re-sale value, especially if I bodge that like I'm
going to, but my use-case is tight maneauvering in marinas. For everything else, lots of anchor
line or maybe a sea anchor. Of course I could keep the Z500 engine in the dock box in case resale
value becomes a thing.

If I'm reading this right, the Hurth ZF5M transmission has either a 2:1 or 2.7:1 gear reduction,
either of which would be acceptable and 2.7 nearly ideal for an electric motor. Then it's a
matter of having a machine shop create a coupler for the spline interface on the other side
and a cradle for the whole mess. The Hurth serves as a thrust bearing by design.

I'm just confused why none of the online discussion of electric conversions keep the transmission
instead of adding in a $600 gear reduction system.

Looking at other Tartan 27 photos (which I do a lot while trying to figure out what the devil is
going on with things), it looks like right hand drive props are the usual. I seem to have a three
blade left hand drive prop.

I keep telling people that every sail is a test sail that fails and for no reason no one wants
to sail with me.

Stop me if I'm repeating myself (if so, I blame the trauma), but sailing came to an abrupt end
for a while a few months back when the rudder stock collapsed. The whole escapade may or may
not have put some solid gashes in to the bow. I really really hate rock covered seawalls.
Got towed out by BoatUS (which is apparently pronounced "Boat U.S.", not "Boat-us"). Bethel
Habor filled the gashes below the water line and left the ones above for me, and sent the
rudder and centerboard (while we're at it) off to Svensen's to rebuild. Centerboard was
coming apart at the pivot and at some point someone installed a bolt for the pivot pin. They
decided, and I decided not to argue, that dyneema was a better option for the centerboard uphaul.
They had previously installed wire I guess to replace nothing but were unhappy about the chance
of the wire eye getting stuck. Pivot pin is now stainless. Slowly, my dear. Slowly.

Leaving the repair dock was nearly deja vu but worse. I fired up the diesel "just in case" even
though after sticking myself at the end of the finger, I had a light breeze off the stern, which
should be easy as cake. Tule is on the left of me and expensive boats are on the right of me.
I let slip the last line and begin to gently glide... toward the expensive boats. I push the
tiller towards the tule. I glide even more toward the expensive boats. My lizard brain,
which is not really adequately trained for sailing, takes over and decides that maybe I'm not
moving fast enough to have steerage and that's the problem, even though I am, and slams it
in to forward while hitting the throttle. The Free Spirit (I never would have picked that
name) accelerated, but also the stern goes right. The bow points to the tule. Heart pounding,
I do it again. Haul the boom across. Channel opens in to Frank's Tract, which is shallow
and open. Threw the anchor down ready to spend two days and two nights there until my heart
stopped pounding. Wobble the rudder. It's rotating on the shaft.

I'm in the habit of grabbing the tiller and pushing it one way or the other to test it before I
go, but I apparently didn't do it very hard, then when I tried to actually use it, it completely
broke free. The tiller head is set up for a key but the rudder shaft was set up for a through
bolt, and it had neither, and now I'm wondering how much difficulty I had before due to it slipping
a bit here and there. Later, I cut a keyway into the shaft and stuck in a key. Prop walk saved
my ass even if that's not what I was trying to do. Not going to complain because they took in
my little old boat along side the enormous shiney motorboats and gave me a fantastic price on
the work done ($3000 for the centerboard and rudder work plus glassing over a thru-hull and a
few other misc things).

Reinstalled the headline after letting it sag so I could find the bolts for the grabrails which
apparently have never been rebedded. I had been trying to scrub the bilge with Simple Green
but it wasn't cutting it. Purpose-made bilge cleaner worked much better but I still have a lot
of work to do. Cleaned the head, which I'm really excited about, as it badly needed to be done
when I bought the boat but a billion other things more pressing took priority. Started replacing
lines. Halyard was requiring a lot of winch action which made me nervous that I needed to seriously
look at the masthead sheeves but replacing it with smaller line instantly fixed everything. For now.
Old halyard I measured at 0.38". Replaced it with non-high-tech double braid that's absurdly small
partially to test if things were wedging. May swap that out for other purposes and try some
other double braid that's somewhere between sizes. I don't remember, but I think I bought 1/4" line that's
currently my main halyard. I guess that's the sailboat equivalent of people putting gaspacks on
their Honda Civics.

Replacement battery tender died so I bought an expensive new new one... that couldn't detect my
battery... until I tried the 2nd charging circuit, which works fine. The first one is dead.
Double checked. Why is smart charging a battery so bloody hard?

Hmm, tiller head, headliner, cleaning the head... there's a theme here.

Todo:

Electric motor? I really want a non-disguesting bilge. Bilges are for beer, not oil.
Glass over some more thru-hulls, maybe even the engine cooling water intake. Right now, there are about
five options if you wanted to scuttle the boat in a hurry but I have zero intention of running drugs or
weapons so that seems like a completely unnecessary feature. I'm also reminded of when I was giving
dinghy rides at open house at Cal Sailing and a small child held by its mother reached up and gave the
reefing line a yank, dropping the boom into the cockpit. Free Spirit is currently *not* childproof.
Sand and refinisng coaming teak
Alternator isn't charging but I don't really care so I should take it off along with the entire engine.
Painting the deck. Or maybe I'll go completely off my rocker and go for gelcoat. Is it really that much
polishing if you use PVA and wax paper or saran wrap? What if I make a negative mould of the deck, in sections,
with plasticine clay and PVA that? Would gelcoat with glitter sparkles in it be in poor taste?
Replace the exhaust manifold. Or not.
Oil pressure valve. Rocker arms. Yadda, yadda.
More rebedding of deck hardware. Haven't started in on the stanchions yet.
Check the mast tang set screws. Everything I haven't taken apart and looked at is suspect.
Plastic vent hood I installed has a magical ability to attract grease out of the air and instantly looks disguesting. Bronze?
Backup halyard would be nice.
Adjust rigging tension. Too loose.
Glass over where the Atomic 4 instruments were that I pulled out. That's just about two engines ago now.
Pry the dead battery free from behind the icebox and forward of the water muffler which involves taking out the
icebox... or the muffler. Hmm...
Small patch in the mainsail.
Better access to storage under the settee.
Screws holding one of the lifelines rotted free. The other one is fine. I'm sure of it. Amazingly, no one got wet.
Maybe install the Loran's depth sounder where the old mystery disconnected one is, reportedly in mineral oil shooting
through the hull.
Doubtless other important things that I should be paying attention to.

I changed where I'm berthed, to on the San Joaquin. There's seldom fair winds on the narrow, long, straight north/south
Old River, but making the Orwood Bastile Bridge go up for me was a power trip. Now there's current, and I'm sideways to
it. Coming in was interesting. It was not exactly slack tide. I was running late because I had to go around a bunch
of dredging and pipe laying. I have to turn from a narrow 40' channel into my berth with a cross-current unless it's
slack. But on the other hand, I can sit on the boat and watch plants and branches float one way, then the other, then the
first, ...

The last sail out of Discovery Bay (for at least a while), a westerly wind was forecasted for after 9pm for a few days
running in the middle of the week, so I had a wonderful light wind midnight sail, surrounded by what must have been
millions of owls, coyotes, and things that I have no idea what they are. Bats were flapping around my masthead nav lights
catching the attracted insects. At 5am, almost to the new marina, at low tide, I ran aground, threw out the anchor,
set an alarm, and went to sleep.

Pics later...

Cheers,
-scott


Re: Yanmar 2GM 20 breather hose!

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

New pump is in and bled the lines up to the injector pump. Engine is running well. Now I'll keep and eye on the oil level and pray that's where the leak was

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 1, 2017, at 1:23 PM, chris blasucci tartan2767@... [T27Owners] <T27Owners@...> wrote:

?

Successfully removed lift pump, and headed to Shearwater marine in port Salerno to get a new one. Tomorrow I'll install and bleed the fuel lines, add 2 quarts of oil and cross my fingers!

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 30, 2017, at 10:11 PM, phcagent phcagent@... [T27Owners] <T27Owners@...> wrote:

?

Hi Folks,
As a new T27 owner, I am really enjoying getting to know her sailing characteristics and I must say that she is impressively nimble for her size!
I have a question for the group. While sailing in some strong winds over the weekend, I experienced a loud crack at the tiller head before reefing.?
Has anyone else experienced this? Any thoughts as to what may be amiss?
Thanks, Ron


On Monday, October 30, 2017 10:07 PM, "Scott Walters scott@... [T27Owners]" <T27Owners@...> wrote:


?
Unless there's a fuel shut-off valve (always a nice feature) that's turned off
or the fuel tank is lower than the level that you lay the fuel line down
(unlikely), yes.

In an emergency, you can zip-tie the fuel line off higher than the fuel
thank, break the siphon (stop the flow once), and plug it with something
clean.

Also, after you run out of fuel, replace a fuel filter, or disconnect
then reconnect the fuel line, you have to go through the process of
bleeding the fuel line to get the air out. Please consult the manual
for your engine for details.

Consulting with a marine diesel mechanic who knows that engine will save
you a lot of time and misinformation. Various leaks may or may not be
possible or remotely likely. Other causes may be common and well known.

-scott

On 0, "chris blasucci tartan2767@... [T27Owners]" <T27Owners@...> wrote:
>
>
> Looks like I'm focusing on the lift pump and see if that's where it's
> leaking fuel into the case. Will diesel start flowing out of pump if I
> take it off?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> On Oct 30, 2017, at 6:44 AM, [1]cfdamm@... [T27Owners]
> <[2]T27Owners@...> wrote:
>
>
>
> when you are draining the oil you may want to pull a sample and have it
> tested. This should cost $35 or less. In Stuart you can get a sample
> kit from Shearwater Marine. That will help put to rest the question of
> what overfilled the crank. This will narrrow down your trouble
> shooting.
>
>
>
> References
>
> Visible links
> 1. mailto:cfdamm@...
> 2. mailto:T27Owners@...
> 3.
> 4. mailto:tartan2767@...?subject=Re%3A%20%5BT27Owners%5D%20Re%3A%20Yanmar%202GM%2020%20breather%20hose%21
> 5. mailto:T27Owners@...?subject=Re%3A%20%5BT27Owners%5D%20Re%3A%20Yanmar%202GM%2020%20breather%20hose%21
> 6.
> 7.
> 8.
> 9.
> 10.
> 11.
> 12. mailto:T27Owners-unsubscribe@...?subject=Unsubscribe
> 13.



Re: Big Boatitis?

 

Hello Fred wish you great new adventures with the new one
Can you forward the list and where you are to:
laurentlapointe61@...
Montr¨¦al Qu¨¦bec
Best regards

Le 31 oct. 2017 18:27, "fred4936@... [T27Owners]" <T27Owners@...> a ¨¦crit?:

?

Hello All,


A member of our sailing club is selling his larger boat at a very good price. As such, we are considering letting Eagle, #662 move on to a new home. Many thanks to all that have helped us in the restoration on her! This is a wonderful community. We are asking $8500. There is a long list of what we have done/added over the years. if anyone is interested, I will forward the info. Thanks again to all!


Fred Liesegang

#662 Eagle


Repower.

 

Was curious if anyone has repowered with an 80's Universal M25 diesel and what if any modifications on the engine cover and bed was required. It's a 1968 T27.

thanks in advance



Re: Yanmar 2GM 20 breather hose!

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Successfully removed lift pump, and headed to Shearwater marine in port Salerno to get a new one. Tomorrow I'll install and bleed the fuel lines, add 2 quarts of oil and cross my fingers!

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 30, 2017, at 10:11 PM, phcagent phcagent@... [T27Owners] <T27Owners@...> wrote:

?

Hi Folks,
As a new T27 owner, I am really enjoying getting to know her sailing characteristics and I must say that she is impressively nimble for her size!
I have a question for the group. While sailing in some strong winds over the weekend, I experienced a loud crack at the tiller head before reefing.?
Has anyone else experienced this? Any thoughts as to what may be amiss?
Thanks, Ron


On Monday, October 30, 2017 10:07 PM, "Scott Walters scott@... [T27Owners]" <T27Owners@...> wrote:


?
Unless there's a fuel shut-off valve (always a nice feature) that's turned off
or the fuel tank is lower than the level that you lay the fuel line down
(unlikely), yes.

In an emergency, you can zip-tie the fuel line off higher than the fuel
thank, break the siphon (stop the flow once), and plug it with something
clean.

Also, after you run out of fuel, replace a fuel filter, or disconnect
then reconnect the fuel line, you have to go through the process of
bleeding the fuel line to get the air out. Please consult the manual
for your engine for details.

Consulting with a marine diesel mechanic who knows that engine will save
you a lot of time and misinformation. Various leaks may or may not be
possible or remotely likely. Other causes may be common and well known.

-scott

On 0, "chris blasucci tartan2767@... [T27Owners]" <T27Owners@...> wrote:
>
>
> Looks like I'm focusing on the lift pump and see if that's where it's
> leaking fuel into the case. Will diesel start flowing out of pump if I
> take it off?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> On Oct 30, 2017, at 6:44 AM, [1]cfdamm@... [T27Owners]
> <[2]T27Owners@...> wrote:
>
>
>
> when you are draining the oil you may want to pull a sample and have it
> tested. This should cost $35 or less. In Stuart you can get a sample
> kit from Shearwater Marine. That will help put to rest the question of
> what overfilled the crank. This will narrrow down your trouble
> shooting.
>
>
>
> References
>
> Visible links
> 1. mailto:cfdamm@...
> 2. mailto:T27Owners@...
> 3.
> 4. mailto:tartan2767@...?subject=Re%3A%20%5BT27Owners%5D%20Re%3A%20Yanmar%202GM%2020%20breather%20hose%21
> 5. mailto:T27Owners@...?subject=Re%3A%20%5BT27Owners%5D%20Re%3A%20Yanmar%202GM%2020%20breather%20hose%21
> 6.
> 7.
> 8.
> 9.
> 10.
> 11.
> 12. mailto:T27Owners-unsubscribe@...?subject=Unsubscribe
> 13.



Big Boatitis?

 

Hello All,


A member of our sailing club is selling his larger boat at a very good price. As such, we are considering letting Eagle, #662 move on to a new home. Many thanks to all that have helped us in the restoration on her! This is a wonderful community. We are asking $8500. There is a long list of what we have done/added over the years. if anyone is interested, I will forward the info. Thanks again to all!


Fred Liesegang

#662 Eagle


Re: Yanmar 2GM 20 breather hose!

 

Hi Folks,
As a new T27 owner, I am really enjoying getting to know her sailing characteristics and I must say that she is impressively nimble for her size!
I have a question for the group. While sailing in some strong winds over the weekend, I experienced a loud crack at the tiller head before reefing.?
Has anyone else experienced this? Any thoughts as to what may be amiss?
Thanks, Ron


On Monday, October 30, 2017 10:07 PM, "Scott Walters scott@... [T27Owners]" wrote:


?
Unless there's a fuel shut-off valve (always a nice feature) that's turned off
or the fuel tank is lower than the level that you lay the fuel line down
(unlikely), yes.

In an emergency, you can zip-tie the fuel line off higher than the fuel
thank, break the siphon (stop the flow once), and plug it with something
clean.

Also, after you run out of fuel, replace a fuel filter, or disconnect
then reconnect the fuel line, you have to go through the process of
bleeding the fuel line to get the air out. Please consult the manual
for your engine for details.

Consulting with a marine diesel mechanic who knows that engine will save
you a lot of time and misinformation. Various leaks may or may not be
possible or remotely likely. Other causes may be common and well known.

-scott

On 0, "chris blasucci tartan2767@... [T27Owners]" wrote:
>
>
> Looks like I'm focusing on the lift pump and see if that's where it's
> leaking fuel into the case. Will diesel start flowing out of pump if I
> take it off?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> On Oct 30, 2017, at 6:44 AM, [1]cfdamm@... [T27Owners]
> <[2]T27Owners@...> wrote:
>
>
>
> when you are draining the oil you may want to pull a sample and have it
> tested. This should cost $35 or less. In Stuart you can get a sample
> kit from Shearwater Marine. That will help put to rest the question of
> what overfilled the crank. This will narrrow down your trouble
> shooting.
>
>
>
> References
>
> Visible links
> 1. mailto:cfdamm@...
> 2. mailto:T27Owners@...
> 3. https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/T27Owners/conversations/messages/9194;_ylc=X3oDMTJxaGhtMW04BF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzE5NTk0MTE3BGdycHNwSWQDMTcwNTA2NTc5MgRtc2dJZAM5MTk0BHNlYwNmdHIEc2xrA3JwbHkEc3RpbWUDMTUwOTM5MzAyOQ--?act=reply&messageNum=9194
> 4. mailto:tartan2767@...?subject=Re%3A%20%5BT27Owners%5D%20Re%3A%20Yanmar%202GM%2020%20breather%20hose%21
> 5. mailto:T27Owners@...?subject=Re%3A%20%5BT27Owners%5D%20Re%3A%20Yanmar%202GM%2020%20breather%20hose%21
> 6. https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/T27Owners/conversations/newtopic;_ylc=X3oDMTJmYW5vdmpwBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzE5NTk0MTE3BGdycHNwSWQDMTcwNTA2NTc5MgRzZWMDZnRyBHNsawNudHBjBHN0aW1lAzE1MDkzOTMwMjk-
> 7. https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/T27Owners/conversations/topics/9179;_ylc=X3oDMTM1Z2dsY3VuBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzE5NTk0MTE3BGdycHNwSWQDMTcwNTA2NTc5MgRtc2dJZAM5MTk0BHNlYwNmdHIEc2xrA3Z0cGMEc3RpbWUDMTUwOTM5MzAyOQR0cGNJZAM5MTc5
> 8. https://yho.com/1wwmgg
> 9. https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/T27Owners/info;_ylc=X3oDMTJmZTBvaTY4BF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzE5NTk0MTE3BGdycHNwSWQDMTcwNTA2NTc5MgRzZWMDdnRsBHNsawN2Z2hwBHN0aW1lAzE1MDkzOTMwMjk-
> 10. https://groups.yahoo.com/neo;_ylc=X3oDMTJlanByamY5BF9TAzk3NDc2NTkwBGdycElkAzE5NTk0MTE3BGdycHNwSWQDMTcwNTA2NTc5MgRzZWMDZnRyBHNsawNnZnAEc3RpbWUDMTUwOTM5MzAyOQ--
> 11. https://info.yahoo.com/privacy/us/yahoo/groups/details.html
> 12. mailto:T27Owners-unsubscribe@...?subject=Unsubscribe
> 13. https://info.yahoo.com/legal/us/yahoo/utos/terms/



Re: Yanmar 2GM 20 breather hose!

 

Unless there's a fuel shut-off valve (always a nice feature) that's turned off
or the fuel tank is lower than the level that you lay the fuel line down
(unlikely), yes.

In an emergency, you can zip-tie the fuel line off higher than the fuel
thank, break the siphon (stop the flow once), and plug it with something
clean.

Also, after you run out of fuel, replace a fuel filter, or disconnect
then reconnect the fuel line, you have to go through the process of
bleeding the fuel line to get the air out. Please consult the manual
for your engine for details.

Consulting with a marine diesel mechanic who knows that engine will save
you a lot of time and misinformation. Various leaks may or may not be
possible or remotely likely. Other causes may be common and well known.

-scott

On 0, "chris blasucci tartan2767@... [T27Owners]" <T27Owners@...> wrote:


Looks like I'm focusing on the lift pump and see if that's where it's
leaking fuel into the case. Will diesel start flowing out of pump if I
take it off?

Sent from my iPhone
On Oct 30, 2017, at 6:44 AM, [1]cfdamm@... [T27Owners]
<[2]T27Owners@...> wrote:



when you are draining the oil you may want to pull a sample and have it
tested. This should cost $35 or less. In Stuart you can get a sample
kit from Shearwater Marine. That will help put to rest the question of
what overfilled the crank. This will narrrow down your trouble
shooting.



References

Visible links
1. mailto:cfdamm@...
2. mailto:T27Owners@...
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Re: Yanmar 2GM 20 breather hose!

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Looks like I'm focusing on the lift pump and see if that's where it's leaking fuel into the case. Will diesel start flowing out of pump if I take it off?

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 30, 2017, at 6:44 AM, cfdamm@... [T27Owners] <T27Owners@...> wrote:

?

when you are draining the oil you may want to pull a sample and have it tested.? This should cost $35 or less.? In Stuart you can get a sample kit from Shearwater Marine.? That will help put to rest the question of what overfilled the crank.? This will narrrow down your trouble shooting.


Re: Yanmar 2GM 20 breather hose!

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Thx I called them and Adolf has been consulting with me on the phone, I just pumped out oil and fuel of crank case.. I opened up breather hose housing and checked air intake filter. Not sure the next step

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 30, 2017, at 6:44 AM, cfdamm@... [T27Owners] <T27Owners@...> wrote:

?

when you are draining the oil you may want to pull a sample and have it tested.? This should cost $35 or less.? In Stuart you can get a sample kit from Shearwater Marine.? That will help put to rest the question of what overfilled the crank.? This will narrrow down your trouble shooting.


Re: Yanmar 2GM 20 breather hose!

 

when you are draining the oil you may want to pull a sample and have it tested.? This should cost $35 or less.? In Stuart you can get a sample kit from Shearwater Marine.? That will help put to rest the question of what overfilled the crank.? This will narrrow down your trouble shooting.


Re: Yanmar 2GM 20 breather hose!

 

Not quitting means it is still getting fuel... probably reverse blow-by
from the crankcase back into the cylinders, if the crankcase is full of
diesel.

Overfilling the tank should not cause the crankcase to flood with
diesel. What I suggested is far more likely -- that the crankcase
not being able to vent allowed it to fill with diesel from the blowby.
Fuel/air mixture blowing past the piston rings is normal, but normally
that gets vented back to the air intake. That would have to persist
for a long time to be as bad as you described.

There is likely a connection from the injectors to the fuel tank
that sends excess fuel back to the tank or fuel filter, but if that were to
flow the wrong way, fuel would wind up in the cylinders, not in the
crankcase. Otherwise, the fuel goes into a fuel pump that's either
electric and separate from the engine or else mechanical and part
of the engine. The only connection (besides where it is bolted on)
is a shaft that gets turn. It's possible but unlikely that fuel
could link into the crankshaft there. Next in the injector pump,
with a similar situation -- fuel could link into the crankcase
there if the pump was badly damaged enough but that's not particularly
likely. Next is the injector nozzle itself. For a small diesel,
that should only leak into the cylinder head or outside the engine.

After you change the oil and deal with the breather situation, keep
a close eye on the oil. If the problem returns, then you're hunting
for the cause, but given that the engine wasn't breathing, that,
to me at least, makes blow-by accumulation seem like the smoking gun.

-scott

On 0, "chris blasucci tartan2767@... [T27Owners]" <T27Owners@...> wrote:


Thx Scott, a storm blew by yesterday and today and the wind was too heavy
to work on the engine today at anchor. I'm getting a tow 2 miles back to
my marina tomorrow and will begin by draining the crank case. I did just
too off my diesel tanks with ten gallons of fuel the day before this all
happened. Could that have something to do with it?
Chris

Sent from my iPhone
On Oct 29, 2017, at 1:46 PM, Scott Walters [1]scott@...
[T27Owners] <[2]T27Owners@...> wrote:



Nothing should be able to drip into the crankcase but if the head
gasket is blown or the heat exchanger has corroded through, water will
get in that way.

Okay, let's break this down.

Too much stuff in the crank case that can't get out and can't be
compressed (not air) will get forced into the cylinders. That also
makes the engine struggle.

White smoke is generally associated with water in the fuel or too much
diesel. If the exhaust smells like diesel, probably too much diesel.

If detaching the breather hose makes it run great (apparently, even
though there's still obviously a problem), then you're probably right,
it's probably clogged in the intake. Is there a check valve (small
plastic disc like thing) in-line somewhere?

Diesel in the oil is better than water in the oil, but diesel is far
too low of viscosity to lubricate worth a damn, so you really need new
oil before you run for more than a minute. Can you save the engine
for emergencies until you get this sorted out?

It's possible that if the breather has been clogged for a long time,
all of the fuel/air mixture that blew by the piston into the crankcase
(and normally would be vented back into the air intake) was trapped in
the crankcase long enough that the fuel got deposited there and air
eventually forced its way out (eg, through the dipstick opening).

At this point, these would be a really good idea:

New oil

Just remove the crankcase breather filter from the engine block
(should be one) until you have new oil and a replacement filter, to
make sure that that isn't helping clog things

Just run the breather hose to as close to the air intake as you can so
that blow-by diesel/air gets re-used as much as possible instead of
stinking up the boat

The post about the oil being milky is correct. If water is getting in
your oil, it will be milky. If water is getting in to the oil, you're
better off draining the cooling system and just not ever running the
engine long enough to get very warm.

-scott

On 10/29/17, chris blasucci [3]tartan2767@... [T27Owners]
<[4]T27Owners@...> wrote:
> Either it's water or fuel, I did just go through a problem a vapor
lock in
> my heat exchanger and found two leaks in the hoses going in and out of
heat
> exchanger which may have dripped down into crank case. After reading
in the
> manual that breather hose will leak if oil is over filled I checked
oil dip
> stick and fluid started pouring out. That's where I stopped working
> yesterday.. I'm at anchor in Stuart Florida in the Indian river off
ICW..
> Thanks for the help.
>
> C
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Oct 28, 2017, at 9:06 PM, [5]calebjess@... [T27Owners]
>> <[6]T27Owners@...> wrote:
>>
>> If the crankcase oil has water in it it should look "milky"/white,
>> especially after running the engine for a bit.
>> Water and oil don't mix, of course, but they do inside an engine and
the
>> water gets dispersed in the oil as the engine runs, giving it a milky
>> color. If left alone they will separate into layers.
>>
>> Hope you don't have water in your oil.
>>
>> Caleb D
>> T27 #328
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: chris blasucci [7]tartan2767@... [T27Owners]
>> <[8]T27Owners@...>
>> To: T27Owners <[9]T27Owners@...>
>> Sent: Sat, Oct 28, 2017 3:33 pm
>> Subject: Re: [T27Owners] Yanmar 2GM 20 breather hose!
>>
>>
>>
>> Just pulled the oil dip stick and fuel or water started pouring out,
it
>> looked like fuel. ??
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Oct 28, 2017, at 2:44 PM, chris blasucci [10]tartan2767@...
>> [T27Owners] <[11]T27Owners@...> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Just installed new hose and engine responded the same, started right
up,
>> 10 seconds it's starts revving up and spouting white smoke and oil
out of
>> exhaust. Could the be something clogging the intake, because I tried
>> runnning engine with breather valve draining into a diaper and engine
ran
>> great
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Oct 28, 2017, at 2:05 PM, Scott Walters [12]scott@...
[T27Owners]
>> <[13]T27Owners@...> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Oh, one more thought. Do you have a fuel filter with a water
separator?
>> If not, definitely install one, and if so, check the water catcher
>> on the bottom to make sure you don't water in your fuel (should be a
>> regular check before starting the engine). Water can be drained off
>> and desposed of as hazardous waste.
>>
>> -s
>>
>> On 0, "chris blasucci [14]tartan2767@... [T27Owners]"
>> <[15]T27Owners@...> wrote:
>> >
>> >
>> > Thx Scott I just got some thicker fuel hose with 3/8 ID and some
clamps.
>> > I
>> > just filled the 15 gallon tank a couple of days before this problem
and
>> > am
>> > wondering how that might cause the breather hose to fail.
Coincidence?
>> > I really appreciate your assistance, at least I feel I'm not alone
>> >
>> > Sent from my iPhone
>> > On Oct 28, 2017, at 12:22 PM, Scott Walters
[1][16]scott@...
>> > [T27Owners] <[2][17]T27Owners@...> wrote:
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > There should be some foam or something under where the breather
>> > attaches
>> > to
>> > the engine (see the service manual for the engine) that catches oil
so
>> > it doesn't go out the breather, but the crankcase gases will still
have
>> > cylinder blow-by (partially burnt diesel). White smoke is generally
>> > associated with partially burnt diesel, not oil (that's described
as
>> > "blue"),
>> > so that doesn't sound exactly like oil from the breather getting
burnt,
>> > or pressure forcing more oil into the cylinders. And yeah, that
should
>> > be unkinked. Don't be shy about putting heavier, thicker hose on
there
>> > with the same inner diameter.
>> >
>> > Running for a period of time at dock making smoke should be okay
and if
>> > it's a temporary build-up of fuel in the exhaust manifold, it
should
>> > clear.
>> > Too much too long and you're causing soot build-up.
>> >
>> > I have some diesel work to do too =|
>> >
>> > -scott
>> >
>> > On 0, "[3][email protected] [T27Owners]"
>> > <[4][18]T27Owners@...> wrote:
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > My Tartan 27 #332 from 1967 was re powered before I bought it
last
>> > January
>> > > with a Yanmar which has been running great until a few days ago
when
>> > > I
>> > > noticed some oil in the bilge and discovered the breather hose
had
>> > worked
>> > > itself off the nipple of the valve cover. When I went to push it
back
>> > on
>> > > the hose fell off in my hand and I struggled to discover where
the
>> > other
>> > > nipple went but eventually reattached both ends again one on the
>> > > valve
>> > > cover the other to a nipple headed toward the air intake
silencer.
>> > After
>> > > starting the engine in ran for 20 seconds then white smoke began
>> > exiting
>> > > the exhaust and I shut the engine off. The hose did have a bend
in it
>> > the
>> > > may have restricted the flow. Any suggestions, I was going to
replace
>> > the
>> > > hose and try again today
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > References
>> > >
>> > > Visible links
>> > > 1.
>> >
[5][19];_ylc=X3oDMTJxa2JwcXRpBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzE5NTk0MTE3BGdycHNwSWQDMTcwNTA2NTc5MgRtc2dJZAM5MTc5BHNlYwNmdHIEc2xrA3JwbHkEc3RpbWUDMTUwOTE4NjIxMA--?act=reply&messageNum=9179
>> > > 2.
>> >
[6][20]mailto:tartan2767@...?subject=Re%3A%20Yanmar%202GM%2020%20breather%20hose%21
>> > > 3.
>> >
[7][21]mailto:T27Owners@...?subject=Re%3A%20Yanmar%202GM%2020%20breather%20hose%21
>> > > 4.
>> >
[8][22];_ylc=X3oDMTJmZjFlcTRkBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzE5NTk0MTE3BGdycHNwSWQDMTcwNTA2NTc5MgRzZWMDZnRyBHNsawNudHBjBHN0aW1lAzE1MDkxODYyMTA-
>> > > 5.
>> >
[9][23];_ylc=X3oDMTM1M250NWFiBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzE5NTk0MTE3BGdycHNwSWQDMTcwNTA2NTc5MgRtc2dJZAM5MTc5BHNlYwNmdHIEc2xrA3Z0cGMEc3RpbWUDMTUwOTE4NjIxMAR0cGNJZAM5MTc5
>> > > 6. [10][24]
>> > > 7.
>> >
[11][25];_ylc=X3oDMTJmNGg0dG43BF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzE5NTk0MTE3BGdycHNwSWQDMTcwNTA2NTc5MgRzZWMDdnRsBHNsawN2Z2hwBHN0aW1lAzE1MDkxODYyMTA-
>> > > 8.
>> >
[12][26];_ylc=X3oDMTJlZ2lldHVoBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzE5NTk0MTE3BGdycHNwSWQDMTcwNTA2NTc5MgRzZWMDZnRyBHNsawNnZnAEc3RpbWUDMTUwOTE4NjIxMA--
>> > > 9.
[13][27]
>> > > 10.
>> >
[14][28]mailto:T27Owners-unsubscribe@...?subject=Unsubscribe
>> > > 11. [15][29]
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > References
>> >
>> > Visible links
>> > 1. [30]mailto:scott@...
>> > 2. [31]mailto:T27Owners@...
>> > 3. [32]mailto:tartan2767@...
>> > 4. [33]mailto:T27Owners@...
>> > 5.
>> >
[34];_ylc=X3oDMTJxa2JwcXRpBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzE5NTk0MTE3BGdycHNwSWQDMTcwNTA2NTc5MgRtc2dJZAM5MTc5BHNlYwNmdHIEc2xrA3JwbHkEc3RpbWUDMTUwOTE4NjIxMA--?act=reply&messageNum=9179
>> > 6.
>> >
[35]mailto:tartan2767@...?subject=Re%3A%20Yanmar%202GM%2020%20breather%20hose%21
>> > 7.
>> >
[36]mailto:T27Owners@...?subject=Re%3A%20Yanmar%202GM%2020%20breather%20hose%21
>> > 8.
>> >
[37];_ylc=X3oDMTJmZjFlcTRkBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzE5NTk0MTE3BGdycHNwSWQDMTcwNTA2NTc5MgRzZWMDZnRyBHNsawNudHBjBHN0aW1lAzE1MDkxODYyMTA-
>> > 9.
>> >
[38];_ylc=X3oDMTM1M250NWFiBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzE5NTk0MTE3BGdycHNwSWQDMTcwNTA2NTc5MgRtc2dJZAM5MTc5BHNlYwNmdHIEc2xrA3Z0cGMEc3RpbWUDMTUwOTE4NjIxMAR0cGNJZAM5MTc5
>> > 10. [39]
>> > 11.
>> >
[40];_ylc=X3oDMTJmNGg0dG43BF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzE5NTk0MTE3BGdycHNwSWQDMTcwNTA2NTc5MgRzZWMDdnRsBHNsawN2Z2hwBHN0aW1lAzE1MDkxODYyMTA-
>> > 12.
>> >
[41];_ylc=X3oDMTJlZ2lldHVoBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzE5NTk0MTE3BGdycHNwSWQDMTcwNTA2NTc5MgRzZWMDZnRyBHNsawNnZnAEc3RpbWUDMTUwOTE4NjIxMA--
>> > 13.
[42]
>> > 14.
[43]mailto:T27Owners-unsubscribe@...?subject=Unsubscribe
>> > 15. [44]
>> > 16.
>> >
[45];_ylc=X3oDMTJxNTdwc24yBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzE5NTk0MTE3BGdycHNwSWQDMTcwNTA2NTc5MgRtc2dJZAM5MTgxBHNlYwNmdHIEc2xrA3JwbHkEc3RpbWUDMTUwOTIxMTk4NQ--?act=reply&messageNum=9181
>> > 17.
>> >
[46]mailto:[email protected]?subject=Re%3A%20%5BT27Owners%5D%20Yanmar%202GM%2020%20breather%20hose%21
>> > 18.
>> >
[47]mailto:T27Owners@...?subject=Re%3A%20%5BT27Owners%5D%20Yanmar%202GM%2020%20breather%20hose%21
>> > 19.
>> >
[48];_ylc=X3oDMTJmZm5naWduBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzE5NTk0MTE3BGdycHNwSWQDMTcwNTA2NTc5MgRzZWMDZnRyBHNsawNudHBjBHN0aW1lAzE1MDkyMTE5ODU-
>> > 20.
>> >
[49];_ylc=X3oDMTM1Zm5oODZ2BF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzE5NTk0MTE3BGdycHNwSWQDMTcwNTA2NTc5MgRtc2dJZAM5MTgxBHNlYwNmdHIEc2xrA3Z0cGMEc3RpbWUDMTUwOTIxMTk4NQR0cGNJZAM5MTc5
>> > 21. [50]
>> > 22.
>> >
[51];_ylc=X3oDMTJmaGE0OXU2BF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzE5NTk0MTE3BGdycHNwSWQDMTcwNTA2NTc5MgRzZWMDdnRsBHNsawN2Z2hwBHN0aW1lAzE1MDkyMTE5ODU-
>> > 23.
>> >
[52];_ylc=X3oDMTJla2g1bzBtBF9TAzk3NDc2NTkwBGdycElkAzE5NTk0MTE3BGdycHNwSWQDMTcwNTA2NTc5MgRzZWMDZnRyBHNsawNnZnAEc3RpbWUDMTUwOTIxMTk4NQ--
>> > 24. [53]
>> > 25.
[54]mailto:T27Owners-unsubscribe@...?subject=Unsubscribe
>> > 26. [55]
>>
>>
>>
>



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Re: Yanmar 2GM 20 breather hose!

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Also when I tried to shut the engine off it wouldn't quit?

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 29, 2017, at 1:46 PM, Scott Walters scott@... [T27Owners] <T27Owners@...> wrote:

?

Nothing should be able to drip into the crankcase but if the head
gasket is blown or the heat exchanger has corroded through, water will
get in that way.

Okay, let's break this down.

Too much stuff in the crank case that can't get out and can't be
compressed (not air) will get forced into the cylinders. That also
makes the engine struggle.

White smoke is generally associated with water in the fuel or too much
diesel. If the exhaust smells like diesel, probably too much diesel.

If detaching the breather hose makes it run great (apparently, even
though there's still obviously a problem), then you're probably right,
it's probably clogged in the intake. Is there a check valve (small
plastic disc like thing) in-line somewhere?

Diesel in the oil is better than water in the oil, but diesel is far
too low of viscosity to lubricate worth a damn, so you really need new
oil before you run for more than a minute. Can you save the engine
for emergencies until you get this sorted out?

It's possible that if the breather has been clogged for a long time,
all of the fuel/air mixture that blew by the piston into the crankcase
(and normally would be vented back into the air intake) was trapped in
the crankcase long enough that the fuel got deposited there and air
eventually forced its way out (eg, through the dipstick opening).

At this point, these would be a really good idea:

New oil

Just remove the crankcase breather filter from the engine block
(should be one) until you have new oil and a replacement filter, to
make sure that that isn't helping clog things

Just run the breather hose to as close to the air intake as you can so
that blow-by diesel/air gets re-used as much as possible instead of
stinking up the boat

The post about the oil being milky is correct. If water is getting in
your oil, it will be milky. If water is getting in to the oil, you're
better off draining the cooling system and just not ever running the
engine long enough to get very warm.

-scott

On 10/29/17, chris blasucci tartan2767@... [T27Owners]
<T27Owners@...> wrote:
> Either it's water or fuel, I did just go through a problem a vapor lock in
> my heat exchanger and found two leaks in the hoses going in and out of heat
> exchanger which may have dripped down into crank case. After reading in the
> manual that breather hose will leak if oil is over filled I checked oil dip
> stick and fluid started pouring out. That's where I stopped working
> yesterday.. I'm at anchor in Stuart Florida in the Indian river off ICW..
> Thanks for the help.
>
> C
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Oct 28, 2017, at 9:06 PM, calebjess@... [T27Owners]
>> <T27Owners@...> wrote:
>>
>> If the crankcase oil has water in it it should look "milky"/white,
>> especially after running the engine for a bit.
>> Water and oil don't mix, of course, but they do inside an engine and the
>> water gets dispersed in the oil as the engine runs, giving it a milky
>> color. If left alone they will separate into layers.
>>
>> Hope you don't have water in your oil.
>>
>> Caleb D
>> T27 #328
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: chris blasucci tartan2767@... [T27Owners]
>> <T27Owners@...>
>> To: T27Owners <T27Owners@...>
>> Sent: Sat, Oct 28, 2017 3:33 pm
>> Subject: Re: [T27Owners] Yanmar 2GM 20 breather hose!
>>
>>
>>
>> Just pulled the oil dip stick and fuel or water started pouring out, it
>> looked like fuel. ??
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Oct 28, 2017, at 2:44 PM, chris blasucci tartan2767@...
>> [T27Owners] <T27Owners@...> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Just installed new hose and engine responded the same, started right up,
>> 10 seconds it's starts revving up and spouting white smoke and oil out of
>> exhaust. Could the be something clogging the intake, because I tried
>> runnning engine with breather valve draining into a diaper and engine ran
>> great
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Oct 28, 2017, at 2:05 PM, Scott Walters scott@... [T27Owners]
>> <T27Owners@...> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Oh, one more thought. Do you have a fuel filter with a water separator?
>> If not, definitely install one, and if so, check the water catcher
>> on the bottom to make sure you don't water in your fuel (should be a
>> regular check before starting the engine). Water can be drained off
>> and desposed of as hazardous waste.
>>
>> -s
>>
>> On 0, "chris blasucci tartan2767@... [T27Owners]"
>> <T27Owners@...> wrote:
>> >
>> >
>> > Thx Scott I just got some thicker fuel hose with 3/8 ID and some clamps.
>> > I
>> > just filled the 15 gallon tank a couple of days before this problem and
>> > am
>> > wondering how that might cause the breather hose to fail. Coincidence?
>> > I really appreciate your assistance, at least I feel I'm not alone
>> >
>> > Sent from my iPhone
>> > On Oct 28, 2017, at 12:22 PM, Scott Walters [1]scott@...
>> > [T27Owners] <[2]T27Owners@...> wrote:
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > There should be some foam or something under where the breather
>> > attaches
>> > to
>> > the engine (see the service manual for the engine) that catches oil so
>> > it doesn't go out the breather, but the crankcase gases will still have
>> > cylinder blow-by (partially burnt diesel). White smoke is generally
>> > associated with partially burnt diesel, not oil (that's described as
>> > "blue"),
>> > so that doesn't sound exactly like oil from the breather getting burnt,
>> > or pressure forcing more oil into the cylinders. And yeah, that should
>> > be unkinked. Don't be shy about putting heavier, thicker hose on there
>> > with the same inner diameter.
>> >
>> > Running for a period of time at dock making smoke should be okay and if
>> > it's a temporary build-up of fuel in the exhaust manifold, it should
>> > clear.
>> > Too much too long and you're causing soot build-up.
>> >
>> > I have some diesel work to do too =|
>> >
>> > -scott
>> >
>> > On 0, "[3][email protected] [T27Owners]"
>> > <[4]T27Owners@...> wrote:
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > My Tartan 27 #332 from 1967 was re powered before I bought it last
>> > January
>> > > with a Yanmar which has been running great until a few days ago when
>> > > I
>> > > noticed some oil in the bilge and discovered the breather hose had
>> > worked
>> > > itself off the nipple of the valve cover. When I went to push it back
>> > on
>> > > the hose fell off in my hand and I struggled to discover where the
>> > other
>> > > nipple went but eventually reattached both ends again one on the
>> > > valve
>> > > cover the other to a nipple headed toward the air intake silencer.
>> > After
>> > > starting the engine in ran for 20 seconds then white smoke began
>> > exiting
>> > > the exhaust and I shut the engine off. The hose did have a bend in it
>> > the
>> > > may have restricted the flow. Any suggestions, I was going to replace
>> > the
>> > > hose and try again today
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > References
>> > >
>> > > Visible links
>> > > 1.
>> > [5]
>> > > 2.
>> > [6]mailto:tartan2767@...?subject=Re%3A%20Yanmar%202GM%2020%20breather%20hose%21
>> > > 3.
>> > [7]mailto:T27Owners@...?subject=Re%3A%20Yanmar%202GM%2020%20breather%20hose%21
>> > > 4.
>> > [8]
>> > > 5.
>> > [9]
>> > > 6. [10]
>> > > 7.
>> > [11]
>> > > 8.
>> > [12]
>> > > 9. [13]
>> > > 10.
>> > [14]mailto:T27Owners-unsubscribe@...?subject=Unsubscribe
>> > > 11. [15]
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > References
>> >
>> > Visible links
>> > 1. mailto:scott@...
>> > 2. mailto:T27Owners@...
>> > 3. mailto:tartan2767@...
>> > 4. mailto:T27Owners@...
>> > 5.
>> >
>> > 6.
>> > mailto:tartan2767@...?subject=Re%3A%20Yanmar%202GM%2020%20breather%20hose%21
>> > 7.
>> > mailto:T27Owners@...?subject=Re%3A%20Yanmar%202GM%2020%20breather%20hose%21
>> > 8.
>> >
>> > 9.
>> >
>> > 10.
>> > 11.
>> >
>> > 12.
>> >
>> > 13.
>> > 14. mailto:T27Owners-unsubscribe@...?subject=Unsubscribe
>> > 15.
>> > 16.
>> >
>> > 17.
>> > mailto:[email protected]?subject=Re%3A%20%5BT27Owners%5D%20Yanmar%202GM%2020%20breather%20hose%21
>> > 18.
>> > mailto:T27Owners@...?subject=Re%3A%20%5BT27Owners%5D%20Yanmar%202GM%2020%20breather%20hose%21
>> > 19.
>> >
>> > 20.
>> >
>> > 21.
>> > 22.
>> >
>> > 23.
>> >
>> > 24.
>> > 25. mailto:T27Owners-unsubscribe@...?subject=Unsubscribe
>> > 26.
>>
>>
>>
>


Re: Yanmar 2GM 20 breather hose!

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Thx Scott, a storm blew by yesterday and today and the wind was too heavy to work on the engine today at anchor. I'm getting a tow 2 miles back to my marina tomorrow and will begin by draining the crank case. I did just too off my diesel tanks with ten gallons of fuel the day before this all happened. Could that have something to do with it??

Chris

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 29, 2017, at 1:46 PM, Scott Walters scott@... [T27Owners] <T27Owners@...> wrote:

?

Nothing should be able to drip into the crankcase but if the head
gasket is blown or the heat exchanger has corroded through, water will
get in that way.

Okay, let's break this down.

Too much stuff in the crank case that can't get out and can't be
compressed (not air) will get forced into the cylinders. That also
makes the engine struggle.

White smoke is generally associated with water in the fuel or too much
diesel. If the exhaust smells like diesel, probably too much diesel.

If detaching the breather hose makes it run great (apparently, even
though there's still obviously a problem), then you're probably right,
it's probably clogged in the intake. Is there a check valve (small
plastic disc like thing) in-line somewhere?

Diesel in the oil is better than water in the oil, but diesel is far
too low of viscosity to lubricate worth a damn, so you really need new
oil before you run for more than a minute. Can you save the engine
for emergencies until you get this sorted out?

It's possible that if the breather has been clogged for a long time,
all of the fuel/air mixture that blew by the piston into the crankcase
(and normally would be vented back into the air intake) was trapped in
the crankcase long enough that the fuel got deposited there and air
eventually forced its way out (eg, through the dipstick opening).

At this point, these would be a really good idea:

New oil

Just remove the crankcase breather filter from the engine block
(should be one) until you have new oil and a replacement filter, to
make sure that that isn't helping clog things

Just run the breather hose to as close to the air intake as you can so
that blow-by diesel/air gets re-used as much as possible instead of
stinking up the boat

The post about the oil being milky is correct. If water is getting in
your oil, it will be milky. If water is getting in to the oil, you're
better off draining the cooling system and just not ever running the
engine long enough to get very warm.

-scott

On 10/29/17, chris blasucci tartan2767@... [T27Owners]
<T27Owners@...> wrote:
> Either it's water or fuel, I did just go through a problem a vapor lock in
> my heat exchanger and found two leaks in the hoses going in and out of heat
> exchanger which may have dripped down into crank case. After reading in the
> manual that breather hose will leak if oil is over filled I checked oil dip
> stick and fluid started pouring out. That's where I stopped working
> yesterday.. I'm at anchor in Stuart Florida in the Indian river off ICW..
> Thanks for the help.
>
> C
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Oct 28, 2017, at 9:06 PM, calebjess@... [T27Owners]
>> <T27Owners@...> wrote:
>>
>> If the crankcase oil has water in it it should look "milky"/white,
>> especially after running the engine for a bit.
>> Water and oil don't mix, of course, but they do inside an engine and the
>> water gets dispersed in the oil as the engine runs, giving it a milky
>> color. If left alone they will separate into layers.
>>
>> Hope you don't have water in your oil.
>>
>> Caleb D
>> T27 #328
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: chris blasucci tartan2767@... [T27Owners]
>> <T27Owners@...>
>> To: T27Owners <T27Owners@...>
>> Sent: Sat, Oct 28, 2017 3:33 pm
>> Subject: Re: [T27Owners] Yanmar 2GM 20 breather hose!
>>
>>
>>
>> Just pulled the oil dip stick and fuel or water started pouring out, it
>> looked like fuel. ??
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Oct 28, 2017, at 2:44 PM, chris blasucci tartan2767@...
>> [T27Owners] <T27Owners@...> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Just installed new hose and engine responded the same, started right up,
>> 10 seconds it's starts revving up and spouting white smoke and oil out of
>> exhaust. Could the be something clogging the intake, because I tried
>> runnning engine with breather valve draining into a diaper and engine ran
>> great
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Oct 28, 2017, at 2:05 PM, Scott Walters scott@... [T27Owners]
>> <T27Owners@...> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Oh, one more thought. Do you have a fuel filter with a water separator?
>> If not, definitely install one, and if so, check the water catcher
>> on the bottom to make sure you don't water in your fuel (should be a
>> regular check before starting the engine). Water can be drained off
>> and desposed of as hazardous waste.
>>
>> -s
>>
>> On 0, "chris blasucci tartan2767@... [T27Owners]"
>> <T27Owners@...> wrote:
>> >
>> >
>> > Thx Scott I just got some thicker fuel hose with 3/8 ID and some clamps.
>> > I
>> > just filled the 15 gallon tank a couple of days before this problem and
>> > am
>> > wondering how that might cause the breather hose to fail. Coincidence?
>> > I really appreciate your assistance, at least I feel I'm not alone
>> >
>> > Sent from my iPhone
>> > On Oct 28, 2017, at 12:22 PM, Scott Walters [1]scott@...
>> > [T27Owners] <[2]T27Owners@...> wrote:
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > There should be some foam or something under where the breather
>> > attaches
>> > to
>> > the engine (see the service manual for the engine) that catches oil so
>> > it doesn't go out the breather, but the crankcase gases will still have
>> > cylinder blow-by (partially burnt diesel). White smoke is generally
>> > associated with partially burnt diesel, not oil (that's described as
>> > "blue"),
>> > so that doesn't sound exactly like oil from the breather getting burnt,
>> > or pressure forcing more oil into the cylinders. And yeah, that should
>> > be unkinked. Don't be shy about putting heavier, thicker hose on there
>> > with the same inner diameter.
>> >
>> > Running for a period of time at dock making smoke should be okay and if
>> > it's a temporary build-up of fuel in the exhaust manifold, it should
>> > clear.
>> > Too much too long and you're causing soot build-up.
>> >
>> > I have some diesel work to do too =|
>> >
>> > -scott
>> >
>> > On 0, "[3][email protected] [T27Owners]"
>> > <[4]T27Owners@...> wrote:
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > My Tartan 27 #332 from 1967 was re powered before I bought it last
>> > January
>> > > with a Yanmar which has been running great until a few days ago when
>> > > I
>> > > noticed some oil in the bilge and discovered the breather hose had
>> > worked
>> > > itself off the nipple of the valve cover. When I went to push it back
>> > on
>> > > the hose fell off in my hand and I struggled to discover where the
>> > other
>> > > nipple went but eventually reattached both ends again one on the
>> > > valve
>> > > cover the other to a nipple headed toward the air intake silencer.
>> > After
>> > > starting the engine in ran for 20 seconds then white smoke began
>> > exiting
>> > > the exhaust and I shut the engine off. The hose did have a bend in it
>> > the
>> > > may have restricted the flow. Any suggestions, I was going to replace
>> > the
>> > > hose and try again today
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > References
>> > >
>> > > Visible links
>> > > 1.
>> > [5]
>> > > 2.
>> > [6]mailto:tartan2767@...?subject=Re%3A%20Yanmar%202GM%2020%20breather%20hose%21
>> > > 3.
>> > [7]mailto:T27Owners@...?subject=Re%3A%20Yanmar%202GM%2020%20breather%20hose%21
>> > > 4.
>> > [8]
>> > > 5.
>> > [9]
>> > > 6. [10]
>> > > 7.
>> > [11]
>> > > 8.
>> > [12]
>> > > 9. [13]
>> > > 10.
>> > [14]mailto:T27Owners-unsubscribe@...?subject=Unsubscribe
>> > > 11. [15]
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > References
>> >
>> > Visible links
>> > 1. mailto:scott@...
>> > 2. mailto:T27Owners@...
>> > 3. mailto:tartan2767@...
>> > 4. mailto:T27Owners@...
>> > 5.
>> >
>> > 6.
>> > mailto:tartan2767@...?subject=Re%3A%20Yanmar%202GM%2020%20breather%20hose%21
>> > 7.
>> > mailto:T27Owners@...?subject=Re%3A%20Yanmar%202GM%2020%20breather%20hose%21
>> > 8.
>> >
>> > 9.
>> >
>> > 10.
>> > 11.
>> >
>> > 12.
>> >
>> > 13.
>> > 14. mailto:T27Owners-unsubscribe@...?subject=Unsubscribe
>> > 15.
>> > 16.
>> >
>> > 17.
>> > mailto:[email protected]?subject=Re%3A%20%5BT27Owners%5D%20Yanmar%202GM%2020%20breather%20hose%21
>> > 18.
>> > mailto:T27Owners@...?subject=Re%3A%20%5BT27Owners%5D%20Yanmar%202GM%2020%20breather%20hose%21
>> > 19.
>> >
>> > 20.
>> >
>> > 21.
>> > 22.
>> >
>> > 23.
>> >
>> > 24.
>> > 25. mailto:T27Owners-unsubscribe@...?subject=Unsubscribe
>> > 26.
>>
>>
>>
>


Re: Yanmar 2GM 20 breather hose!

 

Nothing should be able to drip into the crankcase but if the head
gasket is blown or the heat exchanger has corroded through, water will
get in that way.

Okay, let's break this down.

Too much stuff in the crank case that can't get out and can't be
compressed (not air) will get forced into the cylinders. That also
makes the engine struggle.

White smoke is generally associated with water in the fuel or too much
diesel. If the exhaust smells like diesel, probably too much diesel.

If detaching the breather hose makes it run great (apparently, even
though there's still obviously a problem), then you're probably right,
it's probably clogged in the intake. Is there a check valve (small
plastic disc like thing) in-line somewhere?

Diesel in the oil is better than water in the oil, but diesel is far
too low of viscosity to lubricate worth a damn, so you really need new
oil before you run for more than a minute. Can you save the engine
for emergencies until you get this sorted out?

It's possible that if the breather has been clogged for a long time,
all of the fuel/air mixture that blew by the piston into the crankcase
(and normally would be vented back into the air intake) was trapped in
the crankcase long enough that the fuel got deposited there and air
eventually forced its way out (eg, through the dipstick opening).

At this point, these would be a really good idea:

New oil

Just remove the crankcase breather filter from the engine block
(should be one) until you have new oil and a replacement filter, to
make sure that that isn't helping clog things

Just run the breather hose to as close to the air intake as you can so
that blow-by diesel/air gets re-used as much as possible instead of
stinking up the boat

The post about the oil being milky is correct. If water is getting in
your oil, it will be milky. If water is getting in to the oil, you're
better off draining the cooling system and just not ever running the
engine long enough to get very warm.

-scott


On 10/29/17, chris blasucci tartan2767@... [T27Owners]
<T27Owners@...> wrote:
Either it's water or fuel, I did just go through a problem a vapor lock in
my heat exchanger and found two leaks in the hoses going in and out of heat
exchanger which may have dripped down into crank case. After reading in the
manual that breather hose will leak if oil is over filled I checked oil dip
stick and fluid started pouring out. That's where I stopped working
yesterday.. I'm at anchor in Stuart Florida in the Indian river off ICW.
Thanks for the help.

C

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 28, 2017, at 9:06 PM, calebjess@... [T27Owners]
<T27Owners@...> wrote:

If the crankcase oil has water in it it should look "milky"/white,
especially after running the engine for a bit.
Water and oil don't mix, of course, but they do inside an engine and the
water gets dispersed in the oil as the engine runs, giving it a milky
color. If left alone they will separate into layers.

Hope you don't have water in your oil.

Caleb D
T27 #328


-----Original Message-----
From: chris blasucci tartan2767@... [T27Owners]
<T27Owners@...>
To: T27Owners <T27Owners@...>
Sent: Sat, Oct 28, 2017 3:33 pm
Subject: Re: [T27Owners] Yanmar 2GM 20 breather hose!



Just pulled the oil dip stick and fuel or water started pouring out, it
looked like fuel. ??

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 28, 2017, at 2:44 PM, chris blasucci tartan2767@...
[T27Owners] <T27Owners@...> wrote:


Just installed new hose and engine responded the same, started right up,
10 seconds it's starts revving up and spouting white smoke and oil out of
exhaust. Could the be something clogging the intake, because I tried
runnning engine with breather valve draining into a diaper and engine ran
great

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 28, 2017, at 2:05 PM, Scott Walters scott@... [T27Owners]
<T27Owners@...> wrote:


Oh, one more thought. Do you have a fuel filter with a water separator?
If not, definitely install one, and if so, check the water catcher
on the bottom to make sure you don't water in your fuel (should be a
regular check before starting the engine). Water can be drained off
and desposed of as hazardous waste.

-s

On 0, "chris blasucci tartan2767@... [T27Owners]"
<T27Owners@...> wrote:


Thx Scott I just got some thicker fuel hose with 3/8 ID and some clamps.
I
just filled the 15 gallon tank a couple of days before this problem and
am
wondering how that might cause the breather hose to fail. Coincidence?
I really appreciate your assistance, at least I feel I'm not alone

Sent from my iPhone
On Oct 28, 2017, at 12:22 PM, Scott Walters [1]scott@...
[T27Owners] <[2]T27Owners@...> wrote:



There should be some foam or something under where the breather
attaches
to
the engine (see the service manual for the engine) that catches oil so
it doesn't go out the breather, but the crankcase gases will still have
cylinder blow-by (partially burnt diesel). White smoke is generally
associated with partially burnt diesel, not oil (that's described as
"blue"),
so that doesn't sound exactly like oil from the breather getting burnt,
or pressure forcing more oil into the cylinders. And yeah, that should
be unkinked. Don't be shy about putting heavier, thicker hose on there
with the same inner diameter.

Running for a period of time at dock making smoke should be okay and if
it's a temporary build-up of fuel in the exhaust manifold, it should
clear.
Too much too long and you're causing soot build-up.

I have some diesel work to do too =|

-scott

On 0, "[3][email protected] [T27Owners]"
<[4]T27Owners@...> wrote:


My Tartan 27 #332 from 1967 was re powered before I bought it last
January
with a Yanmar which has been running great until a few days ago when
I
noticed some oil in the bilge and discovered the breather hose had
worked
itself off the nipple of the valve cover. When I went to push it back
on
the hose fell off in my hand and I struggled to discover where the
other
nipple went but eventually reattached both ends again one on the
valve
cover the other to a nipple headed toward the air intake silencer.
After
starting the engine in ran for 20 seconds then white smoke began
exiting
the exhaust and I shut the engine off. The hose did have a bend in it
the
may have restricted the flow. Any suggestions, I was going to replace
the
hose and try again today



References

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Re: Yanmar 2GM 20 breather hose!

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Either it's water or fuel, I did just go through a problem a vapor lock in my heat exchanger and found two leaks in the hoses going in and out of heat exchanger which may have dripped down into crank case. After reading in the manual that breather hose will leak if oil is over filled I checked oil dip stick and fluid started pouring out. That's where I stopped working yesterday. I'm at anchor in Stuart Florida in the Indian river off ICW. Thanks for the help.

C

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 28, 2017, at 9:06 PM, calebjess@... [T27Owners] <T27Owners@...> wrote:

?

If the crankcase oil has water in it it should look "milky"/white, especially after running the engine for a bit.?
Water and oil don't mix, of course, but they do inside an engine and the water gets dispersed in the oil as the engine runs, giving it a milky color.? If left alone they will separate into layers.

Hope you don't have water in your oil.

Caleb D
T27 #328


-----Original Message-----
From: chris blasucci tartan2767@... [T27Owners] <T27Owners@...>
To: T27Owners <T27Owners@...>
Sent: Sat, Oct 28, 2017 3:33 pm
Subject: Re: [T27Owners] Yanmar 2GM 20 breather hose!



Just pulled the oil dip stick and fuel or water started pouring out, it looked like fuel. ??

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 28, 2017, at 2:44 PM, chris blasucci tartan2767@... [T27Owners] <T27Owners@...> wrote:

?
Just installed new hose and engine responded the same, started right up, 10 seconds it's starts revving up and spouting white smoke and oil out of exhaust. Could the be something clogging the intake, because I tried runnning engine with breather valve draining into a diaper and engine ran great

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 28, 2017, at 2:05 PM, Scott Walters scott@... [T27Owners] <T27Owners@...> wrote:

?
Oh, one more thought. Do you have a fuel filter with a water separator?
If not, definitely install one, and if so, check the water catcher
on the bottom to make sure you don't water in your fuel (should be a
regular check before starting the engine). Water can be drained off
and desposed of as hazardous waste.

-s

On 0, "chris blasucci tartan2767@... [T27Owners]" <T27Owners@...> wrote:
>
>
> Thx Scott I just got some thicker fuel hose with 3/8 ID and some clamps. I
> just filled the 15 gallon tank a couple of days before this problem and am
> wondering how that might cause the breather hose to fail. Coincidence?
> I really appreciate your assistance, at least I feel I'm not alone
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> On Oct 28, 2017, at 12:22 PM, Scott Walters [1]scott@...
> [T27Owners] <[2]T27Owners@...> wrote:
>
>
>
> There should be some foam or something under where the breather attaches
> to
> the engine (see the service manual for the engine) that catches oil so
> it doesn't go out the breather, but the crankcase gases will still have
> cylinder blow-by (partially burnt diesel). White smoke is generally
> associated with partially burnt diesel, not oil (that's described as
> "blue"),
> so that doesn't sound exactly like oil from the breather getting burnt,
> or pressure forcing more oil into the cylinders. And yeah, that should
> be unkinked. Don't be shy about putting heavier, thicker hose on there
> with the same inner diameter.
>
> Running for a period of time at dock making smoke should be okay and if
> it's a temporary build-up of fuel in the exhaust manifold, it should
> clear.
> Too much too long and you're causing soot build-up.
>
> I have some diesel work to do too =|
>
> -scott
>
> On 0, "[3][email protected] [T27Owners]"
> <[4]T27Owners@...> wrote:
> >
> >
> > My Tartan 27 #332 from 1967 was re powered before I bought it last
> January
> > with a Yanmar which has been running great until a few days ago when I
> > noticed some oil in the bilge and discovered the breather hose had
> worked
> > itself off the nipple of the valve cover. When I went to push it back
> on
> > the hose fell off in my hand and I struggled to discover where the
> other
> > nipple went but eventually reattached both ends again one on the valve
> > cover the other to a nipple headed toward the air intake silencer.
> After
> > starting the engine in ran for 20 seconds then white smoke began
> exiting
> > the exhaust and I shut the engine off. The hose did have a bend in it
> the
> > may have restricted the flow. Any suggestions, I was going to replace
> the
> > hose and try again today
> >
> >
> >
> > References
> >
> > Visible links
> > 1.
> [5]
> > 2.
> [6]mailto:tartan2767@...?subject=Re%3A%20Yanmar%202GM%2020%20breather%20hose%21
> > 3.
> [7]mailto:T27Owners@...?subject=Re%3A%20Yanmar%202GM%2020%20breather%20hose%21
> > 4.
> [8]
> > 5.
> [9]
> > 6. [10]
> > 7.
> [11]
> > 8.
> [12]
> > 9. [13]
> > 10.
> [14]mailto:T27Owners-unsubscribe@...?subject=Unsubscribe
> > 11. [15]
>
>
>
> References
>
> Visible links
> 1. mailto:scott@...
> 2. mailto:T27Owners@...
> 3. mailto:tartan2767@...
> 4. mailto:T27Owners@...
> 5.
> 6. mailto:tartan2767@...?subject=Re%3A%20Yanmar%202GM%2020%20breather%20hose%21
> 7. mailto:T27Owners@...?subject=Re%3A%20Yanmar%202GM%2020%20breather%20hose%21
> 8.
> 9.
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> 12.
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> 22.
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> 26.



Re: Yanmar 2GM 20 breather hose!

 

If the crankcase oil has water in it it should look "milky"/white, especially after running the engine for a bit.?
Water and oil don't mix, of course, but they do inside an engine and the water gets dispersed in the oil as the engine runs, giving it a milky color.? If left alone they will separate into layers.

Hope you don't have water in your oil.

Caleb D
T27 #328


-----Original Message-----
From: chris blasucci tartan2767@... [T27Owners]
To: T27Owners
Sent: Sat, Oct 28, 2017 3:33 pm
Subject: Re: [T27Owners] Yanmar 2GM 20 breather hose!



Just pulled the oil dip stick and fuel or water started pouring out, it looked like fuel. ??

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 28, 2017, at 2:44 PM, chris blasucci tartan2767@... [T27Owners] <T27Owners@...> wrote:

?
Just installed new hose and engine responded the same, started right up, 10 seconds it's starts revving up and spouting white smoke and oil out of exhaust. Could the be something clogging the intake, because I tried runnning engine with breather valve draining into a diaper and engine ran great

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 28, 2017, at 2:05 PM, Scott Walters scott@... [T27Owners] <T27Owners@...> wrote:

?
Oh, one more thought. Do you have a fuel filter with a water separator?
If not, definitely install one, and if so, check the water catcher
on the bottom to make sure you don't water in your fuel (should be a
regular check before starting the engine). Water can be drained off
and desposed of as hazardous waste.

-s

On 0, "chris blasucci tartan2767@... [T27Owners]" <T27Owners@...> wrote:
>
>
> Thx Scott I just got some thicker fuel hose with 3/8 ID and some clamps. I
> just filled the 15 gallon tank a couple of days before this problem and am
> wondering how that might cause the breather hose to fail. Coincidence?
> I really appreciate your assistance, at least I feel I'm not alone
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> On Oct 28, 2017, at 12:22 PM, Scott Walters [1]scott@...
> [T27Owners] <[2]T27Owners@...> wrote:
>
>
>
> There should be some foam or something under where the breather attaches
> to
> the engine (see the service manual for the engine) that catches oil so
> it doesn't go out the breather, but the crankcase gases will still have
> cylinder blow-by (partially burnt diesel). White smoke is generally
> associated with partially burnt diesel, not oil (that's described as
> "blue"),
> so that doesn't sound exactly like oil from the breather getting burnt,
> or pressure forcing more oil into the cylinders. And yeah, that should
> be unkinked. Don't be shy about putting heavier, thicker hose on there
> with the same inner diameter.
>
> Running for a period of time at dock making smoke should be okay and if
> it's a temporary build-up of fuel in the exhaust manifold, it should
> clear.
> Too much too long and you're causing soot build-up.
>
> I have some diesel work to do too =|
>
> -scott
>
> On 0, "[3][email protected] [T27Owners]"
> <[4]T27Owners@...> wrote:
> >
> >
> > My Tartan 27 #332 from 1967 was re powered before I bought it last
> January
> > with a Yanmar which has been running great until a few days ago when I
> > noticed some oil in the bilge and discovered the breather hose had
> worked
> > itself off the nipple of the valve cover. When I went to push it back
> on
> > the hose fell off in my hand and I struggled to discover where the
> other
> > nipple went but eventually reattached both ends again one on the valve
> > cover the other to a nipple headed toward the air intake silencer.
> After
> > starting the engine in ran for 20 seconds then white smoke began
> exiting
> > the exhaust and I shut the engine off. The hose did have a bend in it
> the
> > may have restricted the flow. Any suggestions, I was going to replace
> the
> > hose and try again today
> >
> >
> >
> > References
> >
> > Visible links
> > 1.
> [5]
> > 2.
> [6]mailto:tartan2767@...?subject=Re%3A%20Yanmar%202GM%2020%20breather%20hose%21
> > 3.
> [7]mailto:T27Owners@...?subject=Re%3A%20Yanmar%202GM%2020%20breather%20hose%21
> > 4.
> [8]
> > 5.
> [9]
> > 6. [10]
> > 7.
> [11]
> > 8.
> [12]
> > 9. [13]
> > 10.
> [14]mailto:T27Owners-unsubscribe@...?subject=Unsubscribe
> > 11. [15]
>
>
>
> References
>
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> 2. mailto:T27Owners@...
> 3. mailto:tartan2767@...
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