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Re: Prop Shaft Length
Chris- Correction-- older 2 sheave head is 3"
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shorter.I have one of each. Bob- --- Robert Wrock <bobwrock@...> wrote: Chris- #596 4 sheave head- Base of mast to upper |
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Re: Prop Shaft Length
Chris- #596 4 sheave head- Base of mast to upper edge
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of tape line-94.5".Large 2 sheave mast is 3" longer and has a different measurement. Hope this may help Bob- --- CHRISTIAN BECKER <uni@...> wrote: I understand your problem. |
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Re: Prop Shaft Length
开云体育One other thing….. ? In this photo: ? Make sure you take the hose off and inspect the hull opening.? I found that the cable had “gnawed” mine down pretty good.? I used some goop (my favorite all purpose glue) to secure a bronze pipe ? to 3/8 adapter in there.? The idea is that the bronze is softer then the cable and sacrificial and can be yanked out at some other point with vise grips. ? You also would be wise to drop that centerboard.? The centerboards are subject to failure at the pivot pin and where the pennant attaches.? My pennant broke and then the pivot gave way after I fixed the pennant.? It was a hackjob replacement that I never have gotten around to remaking…. Maybe this year.? Anyhow, if you have an original board you want to make sure it does not get lost.? If you lose it, it’s not the end of the world and you can still sail, it just takes some of your adjustability away. ? Brian Greul Texas Shirt Company 713-802-0369 / 713-861-6261 (fax) Targeted, Effective Promotions to help you grow your brand |
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Re: Prop Shaft Length
开云体育I have hull #71… so if you need measurements please let me know.? I’m in the water right now, but I did take some photos last time I had her hauled.? It’s highly likely that 73 and 71 are identical boats.? I looked at the posted pics from the boat in Boston and was surprised that there were some differences in the trim work in the v-berth floor area. ??If you would like to see a current picture visit where I have her on the front page now.? I restored the teak toe rail and am working through the rest of the teak.? I also redid the deck at the beginning of this year with kiwigrip.? I have not had time or inspiration to work on the website, but I’m open to practically anything.? If you have a project or some photos you would like to share let me know.? I eventually plan to do a photo gallery and a hull registry.? ? My boat was repowered to diesel, so my prop is likely different.? There is not space for a zinc of any kind, however, I have not noticed corrosion problems.? I keep my boat in Clear Lake which is brackish, and sail in Galveston bay.? Being as we have a bronze prop and stainless shaft and other “nice hardware” we don’t lose much and we frequently are the “gainer” at the dock.? I was amused last year when they leased the slip next to mine to a boston whaler who left his outboard down.? True to expectations he is not a terribly careful dockmate.? My revenge is quiet knowing he is helping to aluminum plate something on my boat at some small fractional amount.? I have since moved several spaces away. ? Brian Greul Texas Shirt Company 713-802-0369 / 713-861-6261 (fax) Targeted, Effective Promotions to help you grow your brand |
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Re: Hull #109
CHRISTIAN BECKER
开云体育The mast on your boat in terms of the bottom
section can be fixed with a splice, I think.
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Just prior to the launching of my boat Head Tide
from Beverly, MA this summer, prior to leaving for Larchmont, NY, I found my
mast in a like condition to yours.
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I ground the sides to clean metal. I did the same
inside. I tried to establish the true dimension to the butt end of the mast by
placing tape and marking the mast with the dimensions from the tape to the butt
end.
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I applied two layers of WEST carbon cloth to the
outside and the inside of the extrusion. If I had it over to do again, I would
have used something to support the inside layers better like paper clips. The
next day I ground the butt end to the true position of the butt prior to the
application of the epoxy and carbon. Since it is out of the sun and I did not
have any extra time, I did not paint the butt end of the mast.
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I will share with you that we had to file a few
places with only a few strokes to get the mast through the partners. By the way,
there is an aluminum piece in the step that keys the mast in terms of twisting.
One has to cut the cured carbon fabric with a hacksaw to open up the keyway.
Make sure that you see the aluminum near the cut but not cut the mast. The
reason is that one wants the mast to key and fit nicely in this area.
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Regards,
Chris Becker
Tartan 27 , number 511
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Re: Hull #109
Matthias Klemm
Congratulations!
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I would do something about the foot of the mast. One way of doing it is to cut off about 6" and splice a new piece of the same size on it. It is a Canyon mast. If you can't find a piece you should at least reinforce the mast with two curved pieces of aluminum on the inside of the mast. I hope you will enjoy your Tartan 27, Matthias "Carpe Diem" 1970 T27 #484 Green Cove Springs FL On Aug 19, 2008, at 9:08 PM, glidden_34 wrote:
Hi All, |
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Re: Hull #109
Hi,
Thanks, I have a surveyor coming in a week or so to give it a close inspection. The keel bolts look great, and the chainplate for the backstay has been done, the exterior of the hull was professionally painted and the POs seemed to know what they were doing. She looked fairly well cared for. Hope to fire the engine next week. Then based on the results of the survey. I already started on the engine so its not on the to do next list ;) New deck paint and non-skid Refinish cabin sole teak Refinish exterior brightwork When it gets to cold for .... then its new wiring throughout, new mechanicals (throttle cable, choke, hoses ect....) I am having a hard time seeing her layed up, but we hope to sail MA to NJ next year, so as long as I keep getting things done right.... I'll survive Mark --- In T27Owners@..., gallaher@... wrote: condition. your fair,topics very informative, thanks to all. thea couple of sails and everything else is a work in progress. interestedmast, if anyone has any thoughts on its condition I would be to hear them. |
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Re: Hull #109
Hi,
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If your chainplates are glassed in, you might want to check their condition. -Maury -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "glidden_34" <glidden_34@...>
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Hull #109
Hi All,
My wife and I have joined your group.... I have found many of your topics very informative, thanks to all. We recently purchased this old boat to give her some love ;) (my wife said I needed something to get me out of the house) We hope to be sailing from Salem MA, on our 1965 T-27 next year. There are some pictures, before and during. Hull is sound, engine fair, a couple of sails and everything else is a work in progress. If you look through the pictures there is one of the step end of the mast, if anyone has any thoughts on its condition I would be interested to hear them. Cheers Mark -n- Kim |
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Re: Prop Shaft Length
--- On Mon, 8/18/08, calebjess@... wrote: From: calebjess@... |
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Re: Prop Shaft Length
Billy Ray,
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I do not know the exact measurement on the T27 and could not find one in the info posted to the Files section of the Group website. I think that you are headed in the right direction though, using a broomstick to measure for clearance in the aperture behind your rudder. Much as I would like to guarantee that a measurement offered by one owner will work for your boat I suspect that there are some differences in engine/shaft installations from one boat to the next as some have been 'improved' or modified over time. I think is important is that you take into account mounting a collar zinc to the outboard engine of the shaft abutting the propeller. The smallest collar or doughnut type zinc I have been able to find is 1" wide. This means that you really need a little more than a full inch of clearance so the zinc will not be rubbing against the hull. I am also pretty certain that our prop shaft is 1" in diameter. The gap between the prop and the hull on our T27 (#328) is about 1/2" which is a real pain since I have to grind down the 1" zinc collar to fit into that space each time I replace it. For this reason alone I would like to get a slightly longer shaft than I have now if the prop aperture can handle it. That said, the prop specs for the T27 are given as: 2 Blade: 13x12x1, 3 Blade: 13x11x1 I am assuming that you are using one of these. The only other trick, as I see it, to measuring the shaft length is to accommodate the interaction of the prop and the rudder. You don't want the spinning prop to hit the rudder when the helm is hard over after all; that would be bad for both prop and rudder. It sounds as though you are making progress with your renovations on "Scarlet" (#79). I love the name. Is the name a nod to Scarlet O'Hara from 'Gone with the wind" or is that your wife's name or does she (the boat) have a red hull or some combination of these? I hope to hear that you get in the water soon. Caleb Davison T27 #328 'Odalisque', 1967 -----Original Message-----
From: Bill Davis <backstay13@...> To: T27Owners@... Sent: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 4:15 pm Subject: [T27Owners] Prop Shaft Length Guys, About two years ago I inqured about the lenght of the prop shaft as the boat I had just acquired had been cut out and I received several answers with widely varing lengths. Fortunately I wasn't ready to do the replacement then but I am now. I have a replacement shaft which is too long. Scarlet is hull #79 built in 1964 and still has the original Atomic 4. I've got a broom handle in her right now ready to measure for an exact lenght assuming the prop goes in the middle of the opening, which is what I plan to do. I'll again ask how long the prop shaft should be? We can see how close your answers are. Billy Ray Davis Jr. Scarlet #79 |
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Re: Prop Shaft Length
CHRISTIAN BECKER
开云体育I understand your problem.
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I suggest something to you and others.
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Get the shaft made or bought. In most cases, they
will cut it to a length and mill the key way. I suggest that when you get to a
point that? you feel good about the length overall, have then make the
shaft somewhat longer to make sure it will fit to your needs, but have the
keyway milled (pay for the extra machine time which will be very little) and
take the shaft and put it into the boat. See how things look and feel.
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If the shaft is too long, then all you have to do
is to cut it at the keyway since you will have an extra long keyway where the
coupling is located or attached. Make sure that you check the diameters of the
prop where the taper is. Measure the length of the keyway. When you order the
new shaft, ask if the dimensions you are providing are standard or normal.
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I have seen three different diameter shafts on a
Tartan 27.
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A adapter can be purchased to adapt a small
shaft to a larger bore prop. The? plastic
molding has a dual taper to compensate. In doing so, the prop will be where is
should be on the shaft. There is a place called Freeport Marine in Freeport New
York that knows all about these problems. I have used them many times.
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I would want to make sure of the dimensions of the
whole assembly before I would order a shaft. Depending on need, you might need a
new prop or this might be the time to change to a two blade plastic. These
appear to be great and can be painted with min. primer.
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I would like to know what is the dimension of your
lower black band, measuring to the top of the band, from the bottom of the mast?
That is where one starts in establishing the placement of the bands on the mast
and on the outboard end of the boom.
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Good luck.
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Chris Becker
Tartan 27, Hull 511
Larchmont, NY
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Prop Shaft Length
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Re: tansom ladder
开云体育No, I don’t think I do…. I’ll see what I can come up with. ? Brian Greul Texas Shirt Company 713-802-0369 / 713-861-6261 (fax) Targeted, Effective Promotions to help you grow your brand |
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Re: tansom ladder
开云体育I use a ladder amidships. This is much safer.? In a rough setting the bow and stern are nothing you want to try to climb.? The starboard side is much easier to climb up and the ladder can be maneuvered with little adventure. ? Brian Greul Texas Shirt Company 713-802-0369 / 713-861-6261 (fax) Targeted, Effective Promotions to help you grow your brand |
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Re: manual bilge pump
Bob
I have a whale gusher 10 in my locker. It could be mounted to go
through the cockpit wall. A guzzler is a good pump but if your not going electric (like me) you'll want higher capacity. 600 to 800 gallons per hour. the gusher 10 fits this. The whale 30 would be even better for serious emergencies. and if you wanted to get really gung ho, get an edson 30. they are expensive but can be found on ebay once and a while for under $300 sometimes under $200. You can also rig up emergancy bildge pump through the raw water intake for your engine. You close the intake seacock and the engine water pump sucks from inside the bilge. bilge oil and such might be a concern but if the boat is taking on water fast, who cares. Bob Gabba Hey #90 1964 --- In T27Owners@..., henry marcucella <henrymarcucella@...> wrote: manual bilge pump?? Will the replacement fit into the locker as the Peters and Russell pump does?? I am hesitant to change to electric because I need all I can get fronm the battery to start my 42 year old engine. Hank |
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Re: manual bilge pump
Matthias Klemm
Check out the Guzzler by Bosworth.
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On Aug 8, 2008, at 4:39 PM, henry marcucella wrote:
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manual bilge pump
Can anyone recommend a replacement for the Peters and Russell manual bilge pump?? Will the replacement fit into the locker as the Peters and Russell pump does?? I am hesitant to change to electric because I need all I can get fronm the battery to start my 42 year old engine.
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Hank
Quinte |
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Re: tansom ladder
--- In T27Owners@..., "ndpsail" <ndpsail@...> wrote:
I have a ladder on the transom with extensions on the stand offs that rests against the hull, makeing it vertical. hope this helps, steve |
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