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Re: replacement sink
Matthias Klemm
Yeah, Caleb, I'm getting closer and closer to making my own sink. I'm pretty sure now, that I don't want another stainless steel sink and probably make a plug off the old sink and then use gelcoat and polyester resin.
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The trip to Stuart never materialized because my todo list was not getting any shorter and the marina in Green Cove Springs is located rather?conveniently?close to my sister's house so I can travel back and forth to fabricate and install stuff. But I did have a nice little voyage to St. Augustine with my daughter and her friend for spring break. Matthias On Apr 2, 2008, at 12:58 PM, calebjess@... wrote:
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Re: replacement sink
Matthias,
You are a handy kind of guy. It is my belief that you could fabricate a nearly exact replacement using your old holey sink as a model or even a mold. I think you could use some lightweight cloth and epoxy and if you could figure out a way to apply some sort of 'mold release agent' to the original sink it would serve as a mold for your fabricated replacement. Ja? I was wondering how your trip from Jacksonville down to Stuart Florida went? I could not connect with you while I was there over the week of March 11th for my mom's 90th birthday. Instead of going sailing we took a 3 day side trip up the Tamiami Trail over to Sanibel Island and back along Alligator Alley. It had been blowing it's head off from the NW and the beach at Sanibel was literally littered with all kinds of scallops, clams and even a few little octopi (most still alive). I spent some time throwing some of the Gulf Scallops and octopus that were still alive back into the water. No sailing for me but then there was too much wind around March 8-10. Hope all are well. CalebD From: Matthias Klemm <matjes33@...> To: T27Owners@... Sent: Wed, 2 Apr 2008 12:05 am Subject: [T27Owners] replacement sink My galley sink has more than one hole! When I got the boat I noticed a lot of rusty spots and tiny little pin holes all over the stainless steel sink. I was trying to find a replacement without any luck and I coated the underside of the sink with epoxy. It was working fine til yesterday when the wash water was starting to find its way into the cabinet and finally onto the floor. I was pretty sure the sink was original but when looking for replacement I cannot find the right size which is 13x17.5". I also would love to replace it with a plastic (ABS or fiberglass) sink since I end up doing the dishes with ocean water a lot to preserve drinking water. Anyone know where to look? I looked all day already. Matthias Klemm Carpe Diem #484 Green Cove Springs FL ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links |
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Re: replacement sink
Matthias, ? I also recommend a stainless bar sink. I actually may have an extra one I went dumpster diving for, that may fit. Unfortunately I won't be in a position to go by and measure it for a week or so. Postage?costs may make it preferrable to buy something local. Let me know if you want me to give you the dimensions! ? Billy Ray Davis Scarlett #79?C803 600 7831 ? PS: Thanks everyone for this interesting dialog that has been going on lately on all manner of subjects. I've picked up several bits of useful information. You can tell it is time to go sailin!
You rock. That's why Blockbuster's offering you , No Cost. |
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Re: replacement sink
Hey Matthias,
Check out bar sinks. They are small and may be close to the dimensions you need. I did a quick search and found this link. Didn't find anything fiberglass but I didn't searh to deep. They may be a bit pricey but if you have a restaurant supply store close, they may have soem used one's. I have one in my neighborhood. I'll go by with your dimensions and see if he's got something reasonable. here's a link to one thing that may give some kind of lead. Good luck. c |
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replacement sink
Matthias Klemm
My galley sink has more than one hole!
When I got the boat I noticed a lot of rusty spots and tiny little pin holes all over the stainless steel sink. I was trying to find a replacement without any luck and I coated the underside of the sink with epoxy. It was working fine til yesterday when the wash water was starting to find its way into the cabinet and finally onto the floor. I was pretty sure the sink was original but when looking for replacement I cannot find the right size which is 13x17.5". I also would love to replace it with a plastic (ABS or fiberglass) sink since I end up doing the dishes with ocean water a lot to preserve drinking water. Anyone know where to look? I looked all day already. Matthias Klemm Carpe Diem #484 Green Cove Springs FL |
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Re: Centerboard lifting system
Matthias Klemm
The center board on Carpe Diem was actually stuck in the up position when I?acquired?her 2 years ago. After prying it out I discovered that the steel core was made up of several pieces of mild steel. The piece that was holding the brass bushing for the pendant was totally rusted (I figured?originally?? 3/8" was now close to 3/4") and had exploded the fiberglass. I then cut out that part of the board and replaced the piece of rust with a piece of stainless steel the same size and laid up the fiberglass. ?After that I faired the center board and drilled an oversized hole for the new stainless steel bushing to glue it in with epoxy. It was a real pain to get back in but a lot of swearing and yelling got the job done.?
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The pendant was still attached when I first pulled the center board but the wire was just looped through the bushing. I attached the pendant the same way and it is holding up so far. I also like the loop idea better. Matthias Klemm Carpe Diem #484 Green Cove Springs FL On Apr 1, 2008, at 12:06 PM, troyal67 wrote:
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Re: bilge pump location
Louis Girard
Thank you very much !!!
--- brian@... wrote: Lou, ____________________________________________________________________________________ You rock. That's why Blockbuster's offering you one month of Blockbuster Total Access, No Cost. |
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Re: Centerboard lifting system
Tom,
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I have not had the misfortune of having to replace the centerboard pennant yet after 5 years of ownership (knock wood). I have seen the board extended down from the hull last season while she was raised up in a crane which allowed me to put some paint on it. The attachment point is basically as you described, perhaps 1/3 or 1/2 way down the length of the board. So to get at the hole the pennant attaches to the board would need to be lowered to at least a 45 degree angle or more. Doing this under water sounds difficult at best unless you are a proficient scuba diver, even so, the 1/8" wire needs to be swaged through the hole and crimped. I forget if there is a bushing to help minimize chafe as well. From the Files section of the T27Owners group, there is a file called Information.htm that gives the (I believe) factory specs for most rigging on the boat. I have cut the relevant section on the C/B pennant: Center board pennant wire 1/8" / 10' rope 1/4" / 12' No doubt you have already found the double sheave behind the companionway stairs where both of these lines are spooled. Good luck and let us know how you make out. Caleb D. T27 #328 1967 - Odalisque -----Original Message-----
From: troyal67 <troyal67@...> To: T27Owners@... Sent: Tue, 1 Apr 2008 12:06 pm Subject: [T27Owners] Re:Centerboard lifting system Greetings, We have just had our first experience with a parted centerboard pendant----the diver cleaned some heavy growth off the bottom of the keel and the board began to "lower itself" on the pivot point (and there was no pendant attached). We are new owners of Hull #258 (1967)and I have not seen the the centerboard down---Can you help with a little more information on exactly how the centerboard wire was originally/may normally be attached to the centerboard? ----Does the pendant enter a hole in the top edge of the board into the hole through the side of the board, to be threaded/fished out so a "stop knot" /loop/clamp can be made an pushed back onto the side hole? ---About how much clearance is there on each side of the board when up in the keel opening----so I could use a temporary solution to lift the board by looping the cable throuh the side hole and attaching it with a shackle to the standing part?---or tying a high strength cord (3/16" halyard) the same way and using it as the pendant? I would like to do a temporary repair in the water. The pendant appeared to have parted at the centerboard attachment point: There was a "hook" shape in the end of the wire and frayed/twisted ends to the strands. With a closer inspection of the board, the diver said there was a (roughly) 1/2" hole in side that he could see through and no other wire/fittings/attachment points he could find (based on some drawings and surveyor's report, we apparently have the fiberglass covered steel plate type of centerboard consistent with the year of the boat and the hole is as far aft of the pivot as would be correct). Help would be much appreciated. The great deal of information on "Kens" former site and the re-establishment of that and more information on this site and "Brian"s" site was very helpful over the past couple years. Thanks to all of you. R/Tom --- In T27Owners@..., Walter Glasspool <gailwalt@...> wrote: that I have had Patience. point while sailing in the Florida Keys. To limit the draft we formed a loop that held the board in the up position, aka, belly band. BoatUS recrimped the remaining line while in Key West at a reasonable rate. They advised a new pennant which I did on the hard, Filled the centerboard hole and entry point with Lanacoat. Patience on a lift. This time the pennant failed about a foot above the centerboard entry point. I assumed that happened because I usually sail with the board partially down in order to balance the helm, the cable must be rubbing at some point in the CB slot. line. that would stop and corrosion but not the abrasion that I have just seen. A second method that am trying is to firt a 1/8" I,D, poly tubing (ACE Hardware) over the cable. Try it now. ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links |
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Re: Centerboard lifting system
Greetings, We have just had our first experience with a parted
centerboard pendant----the diver cleaned some heavy growth off the bottom of the keel and the board began to "lower itself" on the pivot point (and there was no pendant attached). We are new owners of Hull #258 (1967)and I have not seen the the centerboard down---Can you help with a little more information on exactly how the centerboard wire was originally/may normally be attached to the centerboard? ----Does the pendant enter a hole in the top edge of the board into the hole through the side of the board, to be threaded/fished out so a "stop knot" /loop/clamp can be made an pushed back onto the side hole? ---About how much clearance is there on each side of the board when up in the keel opening----so I could use a temporary solution to lift the board by looping the cable throuh the side hole and attaching it with a shackle to the standing part?---or tying a high strength cord (3/16" halyard) the same way and using it as the pendant? I would like to do a temporary repair in the water. The pendant appeared to have parted at the centerboard attachment point: There was a "hook" shape in the end of the wire and frayed/twisted ends to the strands. With a closer inspection of the board, the diver said there was a (roughly) 1/2" hole in side that he could see through and no other wire/fittings/attachment points he could find (based on some drawings and surveyor's report, we apparently have the fiberglass covered steel plate type of centerboard consistent with the year of the boat and the hole is as far aft of the pivot as would be correct). Help would be much appreciated. The great deal of information on "Kens" former site and the re-establishment of that and more information on this site and "Brian"s" site was very helpful over the past couple years. Thanks to all of you. R/Tom --- In T27Owners@..., Walter Glasspool <gailwalt@...> wrote: that I have had Patience. point while sailing in the Florida Keys. To limit the draft we formed a loop that held the board in the up position, aka, belly band. BoatUS recrimped the remaining line while in Key West at a reasonable rate. They advised a new pennant which I did on the hard, Filled the centerboard hole and entry point with Lanacoat. Patience on a lift. This time the pennant failed about a foot above the centerboard entry point. I assumed that happened because I usually sail with the board partially down in order to balance the helm, the cable must be rubbing at some point in the CB slot. line. that would stop and corrosion but not the abrasion that I have just seen. A second method that am trying is to firt a 1/8" I,D, poly tubing (ACE Hardware) over the cable. Try it now. |
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Heavy Air
Hey everyone,
Thanks for the input. I used to sail a San Juan 24, fin keel, turn on a dime, boat. But I am very familiar with a full keel boat, as I sail frequently on my friends Swifture... That's a beauty of a boat. Anyway, back to our T-27's. Caleb, I had a sliver of a jib out as to not knock us, but still may have had too much...hmm, I don't know. We had 7 knts of speed showing on my GPS so I don't think boat speed was an issue. I think I had my traveller too high, well, I know I had my traveller too high but my buddy was driving the main and I was trying to balance her out with the board, etc... a little hectic, so in looking back, I remember the traveller on center and that's just way too high in air like that. I appreciate all the input though. I did have a wonderful time and she was bashing her way through steep little buggers but I never felt her waiver one bit. Even in with my "mis-management" of her on this first heavy air dance, she had my back. We are heading into the months where the weather gets crazy here in Nashville... calm warm days and then 3 in the afternoon, wind up, thunderstorms, hail, rain. It gets absolutely nuts here. Weather forecasts are "estimates" really and we always sail with our foulies and rations incase we get caught out. Caleb! Get that puppy in the water... I want to come up there and sail Long Island Sound! thanks eveyone. Have a wonderful week. c |
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Re: bilge pump location
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýLou, ? Normally it¡¯s on the port side (left) about where the centerboard pennant (wire/rope) goes.? The Manual bilge pump (whaler) is typically in the cockpit with the pickup on the starboard (right) side of the same location.? Apparently that is the deepest location of the bilge. ? Make sure your bilge hose is in good condition.? My PO had used garden hose which was brittle and narrow.? Bilge hose is all of $1/foot even at Wallet Marine.? I happen to like WM for the record.? The beat the tar out of our other local option Backwater Ships Store where the owner has a free nasty remark for every customer.? ? My solution to this particular headache was a West Marine electronic switch bilge pump kit.? I like the cartridge setup because I can simply replace the pump in it¡¯s housing.? WM will probably continue to make it for eons to come.? The hard part is mounting the switch and pump.? You have to get it totally dry, and then clean it with acetone to get rid of the grease.? The PO had a piece of plywood in there to screw things too.? I used 5 minute putty style epoxy, although I¡¯m now very fond of 1 minute and 5 minute epoxy that WalMart sells.? It¡¯s cheap, not messy and easy easy easy.? Anyway, the bottom line is that you glue the sensor in place.? Knowing damn well you¡¯ll have to break it off some other day.? It beats fiberglassing a piece of wood in there and having 2 inches of water in your bilge that the switch can¡¯t see. ? As for the pump, it has mounting ¡°ears¡±.? Use a pair of pliars to liberate those (break them off).? My pump just sits there and then I zip tied the hell out of the hose.? The pump ¡ as we say in Texas, Ain¡¯t going no where¡.? Really, who cares if it moves an inch forward or back?? It¡¯s the exact width of the bottom of the bilge (once you remove the tabs) and so it will just sit there and get you down to ? of an inch. ? Make sure you clear crap out of your bilge.? There are little pipes that run through the bulkheads¡. Things get in there that shouldn¡¯t and clog them up. ? I keep two ¡°oil sorbent¡± float thingies (bout $10/ea from WM) in the section right in front of the engine.? This gives me the assurance of getting 99% of anything that gets in my bilge.? Seeing as I have an old Diesel engine¡. Yea, well it¡¯s good to have them there anyway.? They will suck up the oil should it get in your bilge. ? Brian Greul Texas Shirt Company 713-802-0369 / 713-861-6261 (fax) Targeted, Effective Promotions to help you grow your brand |
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bilge pump location
L G
I have 1971 T27. Today when visiting to start spring prep noticed too
much water in bilge. Used manual pump. I purchased her recently thus I'm not yet familiar, and could not locate electric bilge pump or switch. Were are the switch and pump normally located? If I find that need replacement, what brand / models best fit her. Thanks Lou haul 514 |
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Re: Heavy Air Question
Chris,
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I agree with what others have mentioned already. The T27 will not come about on a dime like my 19' Lightning or any fin keeled boat. I think that you were right to reef the main and furl the genny in. The trick to this is to get the sails 'balanced' so that one is not overpowering the other. If there is a little too much jib showing then she will necessarily not want to head up into the wind. In fact, I think that it can be safer in really blowy conditions to keep the jib smaller (eg.,, furled to a lower height than the top of the reefed main - imitating a partial rig - not masthead rig). The jib still will help with forward motion but not pull the bow to leeward as much. In fact, I have sailed our T27 on the LI Sound with just a single reefed main with creditable results. This configuration (no jib) does make it a bit difficult to get up the speed to make the turn into the wind but it is not impossible if there is not too much chop. You could get up your speed for a turn and completely furl the jib while tightening the main sheet as you go into the turn and then re-deploy it on the other tack. I think that you also want to make sure your centerboard is completely down as this also helps the boat turn nicely (when motoring too). It sounds as if you had a fun sail though! We splash in mid April so I am jealous. Caleb #328 -----Original Message-----
From: chrisd4700 <chrisd4700@...> To: T27Owners@... Sent: Fri, 28 Mar 2008 1:43 pm Subject: [T27Owners] Heavy Air Question Okay, so yesterday here in Nashville we had winds at 25 knts, gusting to 35, sometimes 40 knts. Our lake here is skinny but long and rarely do we get a favorable wind direction that makes it fun to go out in such heavy air and deal with all the tacking. Yesterday we had a fantastic south / sw wind, warm and inviting and I couldn't help myself. Also, I should mention, we are an inland waterway so we have a slight current (2knts or so) whick make for some steep little waves... 2 - 3 ft. Anyway, yesterday it was booming... so I tucked in two reefs and furled up my headsail since I didn't have my smaller 110 or my story jib with me, and headed out. Well, I took a good pounding for a bit since the gust were killing me but my "problem" was that she just wouldn't come around on her tacks. Very slow and with the wave action, a bit concerning when getting blow onto a lee... No incident occurred and I did get her to tack through and she balanced out ok but I'm asking for some advice from you guys who've owned the boat longer than I and who regularly sail in fresh ocean or bay air. I've owned this boat less than a year and this was my first shake- down in really heavy, gusty air. Just wanted to see if you guys experience any of the same stuff and could share some wisdom. THANKS. c ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links |
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Re: Heavy Air Question
I have experience the same problem to the point that I
had to fire the engine to avoid trouble. I was pinching to high and had very little boat speed I had inexperience crew and the jib was back filling on us. hull 555 --- Marty Levenson <martylev@...> wrote: I'm not very experienced in heavy air either, but ____________________________________________________________________________________ Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. ;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ |
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Re: Heavy Air Question
I'm not very experienced in heavy air either, but haven't had the problem of not being able to tack when faced with similar conditions. I'm curious to hear the ideas from others.
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Some thoughts: could the jib be reefed too small? jib sheets toward the aft end of the track? what kind of heeling were you getting? over 25 degrees? Could you have been pinching...pointing too high...not getting enough speed there? Were the main halyard and outhaul nice and tight? curious too, Marty "Poseidon" Vancouver BC ____________________________ On 28-Mar-08, at 11:08 AM, Matthias Klemm wrote:
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Re: Heavy Air Question
Matthias Klemm
I think you're just experiencing the normal behavior of a full keel boat. You have to have some speed before tacking otherwise she won't tack through. It maybe not as?noticeable?in light air but for?sure?in stronger winds. Next time ask someone with a fin keeler to take you out for a sail and you'll notice the?difference.
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I hope you still had a lot of fun though, Matthias On Mar 28, 2008, at 1:43 PM, chrisd4700 wrote:
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Heavy Air Question
Okay, so yesterday here in Nashville we had winds at 25 knts, gusting
to 35, sometimes 40 knts. Our lake here is skinny but long and rarely do we get a favorable wind direction that makes it fun to go out in such heavy air and deal with all the tacking. Yesterday we had a fantastic south / sw wind, warm and inviting and I couldn't help myself. Also, I should mention, we are an inland waterway so we have a slight current (2knts or so) whick make for some steep little waves... 2 - 3 ft. Anyway, yesterday it was booming... so I tucked in two reefs and furled up my headsail since I didn't have my smaller 110 or my story jib with me, and headed out. Well, I took a good pounding for a bit since the gust were killing me but my "problem" was that she just wouldn't come around on her tacks. Very slow and with the wave action, a bit concerning when getting blow onto a lee... No incident occurred and I did get her to tack through and she balanced out ok but I'm asking for some advice from you guys who've owned the boat longer than I and who regularly sail in fresh ocean or bay air. I've owned this boat less than a year and this was my first shake- down in really heavy, gusty air. Just wanted to see if you guys experience any of the same stuff and could share some wisdom. THANKS. c |
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Mint Condition Tartan 27-2 for Sale
Lovingly restored, new sails, lines, stackpack, tidestrack; Reconditioned diesel, stainless
ports and dorades, spinnaker w/pole, dodger; teak interior sleeps-four, awlgripped, roller furler, centerboard, stunning classic good looks. $19,900. Contact: Bob Millstein at 914-762-1965 bcicarservice@... |
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Re: Propeller
Hey Matthias,
That's the performance I'm looking for. I currently push around 4.5 kts @ 2000 rpm. Horrible! I understand the two blade props are really inefficient. I've read a bunch and well... I don't have to read much, I experience it every day. I'm on an inland lake / water way and when I'm coming back up the lake, the current really bumbs me out. I'm not moving like I should. A three blade is most likely in my future. Of course, I'll get all the posts about the extra drag but I'm not concerned. I'm not racing that often and from what I read on most of the prop sites, it's about like draggin your hand through the water. When I get good enough at racing that boat to worry about that, we'll talk. Right? Anyone else that has some experience on this is welcome to chime in... I need the advice, suggestions, opinions... thanks |
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Re: Propeller
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýI keep an eye on the sight, having enjoyed my T27,
Skywalker, so much over the years.
My T27 was powered with an A4, and I put on a
Variprop 2 blade feathering prop.? It fit in the aperture and
transformed?the boat's performance.? When I sold her, I kept it
because I thought it would fit on my new C&C.? Unfrotunatelty, the
C&C has a reduction gear, so it didn't fit.
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I still have the prop if you are
interested.
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By the way, how's Harry doing with the boat??
?
Chris A
Former T27 249 Owner
C&C 34 4242
Skywalker II
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