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Re: rigid vangs
Greg Van Pelt
Apparently it really helps in light air sailing as well. I? guess allowing you to create a nicer shape in the sail. I've only sailed on a newer Beneteau with one, never a T-27.
Chris - In light air the rigid vang supports the boom, and keeps it from dragging down the leech of the sail. |
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rigid vangs
Hey Armando,
I sail by myself mostly and getting to the mast to fetch up the topping lift can be a hairy affair, as you know, in any kind of weather. I'd rather not attach a bunch of blocks on my boom to be able to do it from the cockpit. I don't like the potential for the boom to crash down into the cockpit either. The topping lift swings around up there aloft and this arrangement just eliminates that. It's clean, sturdy and very handy. Apparently it really helps in light air sailing as well. I guess allowing you to create a nicer shape in the sail. I've only sailed on a newer Beneteau with one, never a T-27. |
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Re: Rigid Vangs
Why is the rigid vang better? Why the topping lift
was a problem? just curious hull 555 armando --- "A. Chaudhuri" <amalc@...> wrote: Yes, I use one. A huge improvement over the topping ____________________________________________________________________________________ Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. ;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ |
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Re: Rigid Vangs
A. Chaudhuri
Yes, I use one. A huge improvement over the topping lift particularly in light air. Installed
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it myself, about a three hour job including breaking a tap tool. The boat still has the original "roller" boom which hasn't been used for years and of course if now impossible to use with the rigid vang. All the best. --- In T27Owners@..., "chrisd4700" <chrisd4700@...> wrote:
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Rigid Vangs
Hi,
Anyone here use a rigid vang on their T27? I know it looks really out of place but I would love to get rid of the topping lift set-up on my boat and this seems to be a really slick option. I was at Strictly Sail in Chicago this weekend and talked to the Garhauer people. Real sturdy and the people who use em' love em. Just wanted to see if anyone here has one? thanks c |
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Re: Chainplate Access
I am currently doing mine in place on hull #116. When finished, the only difference will be that the gussett will be sealed into the deck and the chainplates will be on the outside of the assembly instead of glassed up. All I can say is, its cramped in the head, and I can't imagine working in the closet.
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-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Brian" <brian@...>
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Re: Wanted: Pictures of external chainplates
Brian, ? I believe Paul out in the Northwest somewhere had a picture posted for awhile or maybe he emailed it to me. In my posting a few weeks ago on replacing/rebuilding my chain-plates I may have led some people to believe I had attached the chain-plates to the exterior of the hull. That is not the case. I have cut out the old chain-plate supports and I am in the process of replacing those with fresh wood and glass with the chain-plates ultimately on the exterior of those supports as opposed to covered up the way they came from the factory. I should be able to post some pictures in the next few weeks! ? Feel free to call if you need further help C803 600 7831. ? Billy Ray Davis Scarlett #79 Brian wrote:
Never miss a thing. |
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Re: Wanted: Pictures of external chainplates
Matthias Klemm
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýBrian, ? The extra lowers will prevent pumping of the mast, allow for better tuning and most of all give some added strength. I really like the added safety. Also wire sizes were changed to ?¡± for head and backstay and 7/32¡± for the shrouds. ? The gunwale and the rig conversion was done already by the PO and I never had the chance to look at a original T27. But I¡¯m pretty sure that the teak rub rail ?was added on. The external chain plates were installed first and the teak was build around them. The old chain plates are still present on my boat and I use them frequently for rigging blocks or as tie downs. The only old chain plate that I removed was the one for the backstay to accommodate for the new external one. On my first sail I had way to much weather helm and I ended up taking most of the rake out. But I changed a whole lot on my rig so I don¡¯t really know where the strong weather helm came from. I changed the masthead for all rope halyards (4 sheeves) and lost about 6¡± inches in length and had to cut off another 6¡± at the base of the mast because of corrosion. Then the gooseneck was moved up about 10¡± for some better headroom in the cockpit and that of course was followed by a shorter boom to clear the backstay. So by now the mainsail doesn¡¯t fit anymore and I decided to get a new one and because it is a full baton sail that changed the leech. All in all I¡¯m very happy with all the changes the PO and I made. ? By the way, my deck needs some paint urgently but it is much more fun to work on the rigging J ? Matthias ? ? ? From:
T27Owners@... [mailto:T27Owners@...] On Behalf Of brian@... ? Matthias, ? It looks like there is an extra lower shroud on your boat.? Any idea on why that was done? ? From what I can deduce, spreading the shrouds out lengthens the base of the ¡°triangle¡± formed by the mast and shrouds.? This reduces the load on the shrouds.? A lower load should require less footing, or do a better job with the same amount of holding power. ? I noticed that your chainplates go up through the teak.? That is an interesting idea.? My teak is arranged a little differently than yours.? I don¡¯t have a rubrail of teak, I have an aluminum one.? So maybe someone already took that off of my boat. ? I was planning to epoxy a piece of plywood on the inside of the hull as backing for the chainplate to spread the load so it won¡¯t be a point load in the fiberglass.? That increases the likelihood of crevice corrosion (the reason our existing chainplates are crap), but bolts and external chainplates are cheap and easy to replace every 10 years with your rigging.? I figure it would add $500 to the cost of the rigging job, which is minor for peace of mind. ? From what I understand the lower shroud takes most of the load.? It¡¯s thicker and that indicates a higher load is expected there.? I realize you can¡¯t put them in the same spot¡. Well you can if you put a big enough anchor point¡ so I¡¯d think I¡¯d want to move the lowers forward a couple inches and the uppers backwards a couple inches.? My reasoning is that the distance won¡¯t matter much as most of the load is at the spreaders.? The greater base will lower the load anyhow and you can use the fore and aft stays to tune the rig anyhow.? If I remember correctly a slight rearward bias is preferred on our rig. ? I just loathe the idea of ripping out chainplates and trying to fabricate and re-glass something that wasn¡¯t a great idea the first time.? It¡¯s definitely a MPIA project.? Major Pain (can you guess the other two words?) ? Although, deck paint is the current E-MPIA? Eternal Major ¡.. ? It¡¯s looking like it¡¯s going to take 10 man days of labor to complete and two coats of primer and two coats of paint? and I¡¯m certain I¡¯ll have to touch it up here and there.? Touching it up is easier than trying to get every last piece of paint loose. ? Brian Greul Texas Shirt Company 713-802-0369 / 713-861-6261 (fax) Targeted, Effective Promotions to help you grow your brand
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Re: Wanted: Pictures of external chainplates
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýMatthias, ? It looks like there is an extra lower shroud on your boat.? Any idea on why that was done? ? From what I can deduce, spreading the shrouds out lengthens the base of the ¡°triangle¡± formed by the mast and shrouds.? This reduces the load on the shrouds.? A lower load should require less footing, or do a better job with the same amount of holding power. ? I noticed that your chainplates go up through the teak.? That is an interesting idea.? My teak is arranged a little differently than yours.? I don¡¯t have a rubrail of teak, I have an aluminum one.? So maybe someone already took that off of my boat. ? I was planning to epoxy a piece of plywood on the inside of the hull as backing for the chainplate to spread the load so it won¡¯t be a point load in the fiberglass.? That increases the likelihood of crevice corrosion (the reason our existing chainplates are crap), but bolts and external chainplates are cheap and easy to replace every 10 years with your rigging.? I figure it would add $500 to the cost of the rigging job, which is minor for peace of mind. ? From what I understand the lower shroud takes most of the load.? It¡¯s thicker and that indicates a higher load is expected there.? I realize you can¡¯t put them in the same spot¡. Well you can if you put a big enough anchor point¡ so I¡¯d think I¡¯d want to move the lowers forward a couple inches and the uppers backwards a couple inches.? My reasoning is that the distance won¡¯t matter much as most of the load is at the spreaders.? The greater base will lower the load anyhow and you can use the fore and aft stays to tune the rig anyhow.? If I remember correctly a slight rearward bias is preferred on our rig. ? I just loathe the idea of ripping out chainplates and trying to fabricate and re-glass something that wasn¡¯t a great idea the first time.? It¡¯s definitely a MPIA project.? Major Pain (can you guess the other two words?) ? Although, deck paint is the current E-MPIA? Eternal Major ¡.. ? It¡¯s looking like it¡¯s going to take 10 man days of labor to complete and two coats of primer and two coats of paint? and I¡¯m certain I¡¯ll have to touch it up here and there.? Touching it up is easier than trying to get every last piece of paint loose. ? Brian Greul Texas Shirt Company 713-802-0369 / 713-861-6261 (fax) Targeted, Effective Promotions to help you grow your brand |
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Re: Wanted: Pictures of external chainplates
Matthias Klemm
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýHi Brian, Here is a link to a bunch of T27 pictures including some that show the external chain plates. ?
? ? They are made from 1¡±x3/16¡± SS stock and are about 12¡± long and so are the backing plates. If you need any details let me know. I¡¯ll be back on my boat in a couple of weeks. ? Matthias ? ? From:
T27Owners@... [mailto:T27Owners@...] On Behalf Of Brian ? Hi gang,
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Wanted: Pictures of external chainplates
Brian
Hi gang,
I'm working on my chainplates next. I'm trying to find some pictures of externally mounted chainplates and the internal backing plates. If anyone would care to share what size chainplates and backing plates they used and how it was secured I'd greatly appreciate it. -Brian Hotpuppy Too Hull 71 Houston, TX |
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Re: Chainplate Access
Brian
Did anyone ever post pics of this? I have hull #71 and this is my
next major headache/project. I think external chainplates would make the walkway nicer as well. --- In T27Owners@..., Bill Davis <backstay13@...> wrote: chainplates. Boy am I glad I cut the boogers out!!!! finally managed to clear away most of the obstructions an used my brother in law's "Fein Multitool". Two hours later I was done! It wouldn't have taken nearly that long but the contorted positions you have to get into limited me to working a max of 10 minutes before I had to rest. Scarlet is hull # 79 an believe me they had to be replaced! After sitting inside my barn for 12-14 months I still got a cup of water out of the bottom when I started cutting. The fiberglass had seperated from the plywood and the bolts were well on their way to corroding through and she has been in fresh water most of her life! For those of you who have an older boat and haven't replaced them do yourself a favor buy or rent a Fein Multitool which will allow you to cut them out in no time without the danger of cutting through the hull. You will be shocked at what you find! exterior so I can monitor what is going on in the years to come. It should take me another month or so to complete the project in my limited spare time but I'm sure whatever the finished product is will be a lot better/stronger than what I had before. up removing the hanging closet to do this job, but I am sure you don't have to. Itwill be a little tight but should be doable.I am just thankful that he did all the dirty job and did it nicely. On the survey report, thesurveyor's remark says Excellent, Extra Heavy Duty New Chainplates.tomorrow and let you guys know when it is up. |
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Re: varnish...
A. Chaudhuri
Yes, another vote as well. Both types, Cetol Lite and Cetol have lasted 5 year, with a light
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scrubbing and single coat in year 3, on my T27 in the Long Island area. Also pretty good for wood deck furniture. Best. --- In T27Owners@..., "chrisd4700" <chrisd4700@...> wrote:
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varnish...
'nuther vote for Cetol Natural. I used the Sikken's cetol product this
summer to do all my toe rails, hand rails, etc... and it was so easy to work with. Have used varnish on my other boats... schooner, epiphanes... way too much trouble and it doesn't hold up very well. The guy next to me was sanding all his varnish and epoxy off his bright work to use the Sikken's stuff. He was not having fun sanding off all that underlying epoxy. I will let you know how it holds up through this winter but for forgiving applications and reputation, I'd suggest the Sikkens Natural. Good luck |
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Re: 2 part varnish
I have to also recommend Cetol. I used the light tint
with the gloss and it looks great is maintenance free and resistant to weather and abrasion. ambler hull #555 --- brian@... wrote: I've been very happy with Cetol Natural and Cetol ____________________________________________________________________________________ Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page. |
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Re: 2 part varnish uploaded some pics trim
Thanks, I have used cetol in the past with mixed results. Just didn't seem to hold up too well on the older wood. I've already started using the epoxy on the hatches so I think at this point I'm committed to the varnish approach since I don't think cetol will go over the epoxy.... I'll keep you posted!
As far as the trim goes I put a pic up off what I have. It seems to fit fine and appears to be a generic vinyl based variety. Will need some caulk to secure it tho. Rich
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. |
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Re: 2 part varnish
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýI¡¯ve been very happy with Cetol Natural and Cetol Gloss.? I get lots of compliments on what I have restored so far.? It seems to require maintenance a couple times a year.? ? The nice thing about Cetol is that it will bond to itself without much hassle.? Removing it is as easy as a heat gun or scraper. ? Of course, I¡¯m not going for museum grade, I want it nice from 5 feet and if you get closer you have to work on it.? LOL.? I¡¯ll try to post some pics when I¡¯m done repainting.? ? Brian Greul Texas Shirt Company 713-802-0369 / 713-861-6261 (fax) Targeted, Effective Promotions to help you grow your brand |
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Re: 2 part varnish
Rich,
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It sounds as if you are getting along in your improvements list for "Lola". While I have not personally used any of the 2 part varnishes that are out there I hear from others on another boating forum ( ) that Bristol Finish and Honey Teak are supposedly the most maintenance free if applied thick enough. The Dec 07 Practical Sailor reviewed 2 part finishes and they too recommend Bristol Finish (Traditional Amber), as well as Interlux Perfection and Smith & Co Five-Year Clear although they did not include Honey Teak in their comparison (which is allegedly more expensive than Bristol Finish). I have been using Interlux Schooner varnish for my exterior teak and although it looks nice initially, it requires a lot of work. I am tempted to try Cetol or Bristol Finish instead. I hope you get "Lola" in the water this year. Caleb -----Original Message-----
From: Richard Shearley <rshearley@...> To: T27Owners@... Sent: Tue, 22 Jan 2008 4:17 pm Subject: Re: [T27Owners] trim for deck hatches follow-up and a question on rubrails #AOLMsgPart_2_61194cc2-4918-4591-94c0-22c64c23f61a I actually have some that the PO had bought but never installed. I'll dry fit it and if it works find out what it is...btw I have all the rub rails sanded and somewhat repaired. I made my own filler/adhesive out of epoxy and the dust that came out of the orbital sander.... My plan is still to use penetrating epoxy and then varnish, I'd like to use two part varnish but need to check compatability and prices. Has anyone tried anything similer? Rich Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. ________________________________________________________________________ More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - |
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Re: trim for deck hatches follow-up and a question on rubrails
I actually have some that the PO had bought but never installed. I'll dry fit it and if it works find out what it is...btw I have all the rub rails sanded and somewhat repaired. I made my own filler/adhesive out of epoxy and the dust that came out of the orbital sander.... My plan is still to use penetrating epoxy and then varnish, I'd like to use two part varnish?but need to check compatability and prices. Has anyone tried anything similer? Rich
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. |