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Re: A frames mast support (off season) Uploaded!!!
Hi Brian.
I'm interested. I could use a set of both port and starboard windows. What would it cost? What are the condition of your alu window frames? Mine are in need of restoration. Any ideas? When I removed the two small forward portlights it looked as if the factory "craftsman" used a hacksaw with no template to make the cut-outs. Did you see this on your boat? Thanks. Jim Townsend, Hull #493 --- In T27Owners@..., <brian@...> wrote: is interested I can make some extras. I'll probably make them from Lexan |
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Re: A frames mast support (off season) Uploaded!!!
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýI'm planning on
making new windows for my boat.? When I do, I'll be taking advantage of my
laser cutter to cut the shape.? If anyone else is interested I can make
some extras.? I'll probably make them from Lexan because it is scratch and
impact resistant.?
?
Brian Greul
Texas Shirt Company
713-802-0369 / 713-861-6261
(fax)
Targeted, Effective Promotions to help
you grow your brand
? |
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Re: A frames mast support (off season) Uploaded!!!
tartan27plee
Billy,
If you can find you photos in the "Photos" section you will find the A-frame photos. There's a buttom/option on the top right (I think) for next page or more photos. Let me know if you can't find it and I will be happy to email them to you. Yeah, the portlights are great, and them make the boat look new (newish) again. I am in the process of upgrading the the exhaust system, everything from the hot section all the way to the stern. I'll keep the members posted. Paul --- In T27Owners@..., Bill Davis <backstay13@...> wrote: the site. It could be my lack of my computer skills! for. I particularly like your portholes in the cabin. Scarlet, hull number 79, has fixed large "windows" that are pretty scratched up. I'll be removing them soon and at the least putting on some 3M coating to cut down on the sun as it is a little warm down here is Columbia.
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Re: A frames mast support (off season) Uploaded!!!
Paul, ? Thanks for the knowledge and the effort. Unfortunately I don't see any new photos on the site. It could be my lack of my computer skills! ? I saw your earlier pictures and she looks great. I've deffinitely got something to shoot for. I particularly like your portholes in the cabin. Scarlet, hull number 79, has fixed large "windows" that are pretty scratched up. I'll be removing them soon and at the least putting on some 3M coating to cut down on the sun as it is a little warm down here is Columbia. ? Thanks for the effeort and I'm sure I'll figure out the photos part soon. ? Billy Ray Davis tartan27plee wrote:
Building a website is a piece of cake. Yahoo! Small Business gives you
Shape Yahoo! in your own image. |
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Re: Chainplate Access
daiksan
--- In T27Owners@..., "tartan27plee" <tartan27plee@...>
wrote: up removing the hanging closet to do this job, but I am sure you don't have to. Itwill be a little tight but should be doable.I am just thankful that he did all the dirty job and did it nicely. On the survey report, thesurveyor's remark says Excellent, Extra Heavy Duty New Chainplates.tomorrow and let you guys know when it is up. |
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Re: Chainplate Access
tartan27plee
I have photos of my new chainplates. The guy I bough the T27 ended up removing the
hanging closet to do this job, but I am sure you don't have to. It will be a little tight but should be doable. I plan on refitting a hanging closet before I launch it next year. I am just thankful that he did all the dirty job and did it nicely. On the survey report, the surveyor's remark says Excellent, Extra Heavy Duty New Chainplates. It is not glassed over. I will post photos of it tonight or tomorrow and let you guys know when it is up. Paul |
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Re: Chainplate design flaw
Marty et al,
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I think that your idea of using longer bolts that come through the knee wall is a very good one. From what I gather when the bolts are encased in epoxy/fiberglass they become oxygen deprived and break down much faster than they normally would (add moisture and well you know...). If I recall correctly one poster from the old board rebuilt the knee wall and mounted the chainplate strap on one of the outside faces with the bolts showing on either side as you did. Some folks have even mounted the chainplate strap outside the hull with backing plates on the inside. Thanks for keeping me honest! Caleb -----Original Message-----
From: Marty Levenson <martylev@...> To: T27Owners@... Sent: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 2:02 am Subject: Re: [T27Owners] Chainplate Access Dear Caleb, I redid our 1967 chain plates 4 years ago. There was no sign of a problem rxternally, but drilling a small hole brought out moist pulp on the bit. When I opened them up (p + s) the bolts (galvanized) were rusted almost completely through. I don't think filling with epoxy would have done nearly enough to strengthen the plates connection to the boat.. Long story short: I replaced the knee with epoxy encased marine plywood, and then used longer ss bolts so the heads and nuts are on the outside of the fiberglass. Good luck with your project! Marty On 18-Jul-07, at 9:14 PM, calebjess@... wrote: A marine surveyor told me to drill some holes in the knee wall of the port and stbd chainplate support structures and let it dry and fill it with epoxy starting at the lowest hole first. You put duct tape over each hole as it is filled from above and the whole structure should be more seaworthy. I have only drilled some drainage holes on our T27 chainplate knee walls and have not tried to fill them with epoxy yet. ________________________________________________________________________ AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com. |
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Re: Chainplate Access
Marty, ? Thanks for the email and the phone call. Much as I don't relish this project it sure sounds like I can't avoid it! ? Happy Salin! ? Billy Ray Davis Marty Levenson wrote:
Sick sense of humor? Visit Yahoo! TV's to see what's on, when. |
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Re: Chainplate Access
Caleb, ? Marty Levenson and I spoke yesterday afternoon. He has been through the process and suggested I drill holes every 1/4 inch down the inside edge as well as where it joins the hull then peel it back, repair, then put it back and glass it over. Any way you look at it, it will be a pain but absolutely necessary. ? Thanks for the advice. ? Billy Ray Davis calebjess@... wrote:
Fussy? Opinionated? Impossible to please? Perfect. and lay it on us. |
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Re: Chainplate Access
Dear Caleb,
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Show quoted text
I redid our 1967 chain plates 4 years ago. There was no sign of a problem rxternally, but drilling a small hole brought out moist pulp on the bit. When I opened them up (p + s) the bolts (galvanized) were rusted almost completely through. I don't think filling with epoxy would have done nearly enough to strengthen the plates connection to the boat.. Long story short: I replaced the knee with epoxy encased marine plywood, and then used longer ss bolts so the heads and nuts are on the outside of the fiberglass. Good luck with your project! Marty On 18-Jul-07, at 9:14 PM, calebjess@... wrote: A marine surveyor told me to drill some holes in the knee wall of the |
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Re: Chainplate Access
Billy Ray,
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I have only redone the aft chainplate and can only tell you that they used plywood that was surrounded by an epoxy/glass coating that will eventually rot out to the point that it is soil/dirt. The access to the aft chainplate assembly is easy enough but the port and starboard chainplates are in the head and hanging locker with very limited room to manouver. This is one of the reasons I have not tried to re-bed my own port and stbd chainplates. The chainplates were kind of a design flaw with the early T27s as the wood enclosed in fiberglass would eventually rot leaving only the through bolts and chainplate to keep the shroud/stay in place. A marine surveyor told me to drill some holes in the knee wall of the port and stbd chainplate support structures and let it dry and fill it with epoxy starting at the lowest hole first. You put duct tape over each hole as it is filled from above and the whole structure should be more seaworthy. I have only drilled some drainage holes on our T27 chainplate knee walls and have not tried to fill them with epoxy yet. Better yet you want to do a good job of bedding the chainplate cover/deck joint so water does not get in there in the first place. The best option is to put the chainplates out on the hull with straps that lead down with backing plates to bolt to it but that sounds like work. Best of luck in those tight quarters. Caleb D T27 #328, 1967, Odalisque -----Original Message-----
From: backstay13 <backstay13@...> To: T27Owners@... Sent: Wed, 18 Jul 2007 2:45 pm Subject: [T27Owners] Chainplate Access Scarlet Hull Number 79 I've just about finished recoreing my deck and the next project appears to be the chainplates due to the rust seeping out the bottom. Any advice on removing the covering would be welcome. Questions like how deep do I cut come to mind? Billy Ray Davis Columbia, SC Yahoo! Groups Links ________________________________________________________________________ AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com. |
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Re: halyards back to cockpit
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýIf you care to
forward pics to me I'll see if I can put documentation together and post it to
t-27.com.
?
It would also make a
great post in projects.? :)
?
?
?
Brian Greul
Texas Shirt Company
713-802-0369 / 713-861-6261
(fax)
Targeted, Effective Promotions to help
you grow your brand
? |
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A frames mast support (off season)
tartan27plee
I am lucky enough to have my T27 stored in my backyard. I just bough this boat last month
and it requires some work before it is sea worthy. Over the weekend, I I built 3 A-frames (bow, top of deck house, stern) to prop the mast and boom up 4 feet off the deck. This gave me the room needed to do work on the deck and be able to get in and out of the cabinet. It will also form a nice trianglar shape when a trap is covering it and the entire boat. It will prevent any snow or water from collecting on the trap. I will post photos of this setup if anyone is interested in doing the same. Paul |
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Re: halyards back to cockpit
We are going to the boat for a few days, so I should be able to take photos and post them next week.?
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Marty On 15-Jul-07, at 5:01 AM, southsidemagician wrote:
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Re: halyards back to cockpit
southsidemagician
Yes I'd like to see pictures.
Robbie Watts Southern Horizon --- In T27Owners@..., Marty Levenson <martylev@...> wrote: controlled block there, through bolted on the roof. That has worked reallywell for us.starboard. Each end of the line terminates in a small loop about 5 feet(rough guess) above the boom. On each side of the boom are two ss eyesabout 5 feet apart (rough guess again). On each side a light line goesfrom forward eye, through the loop, back to the aft eye. Each end ofthat line connects to the boom's eyes with a simple plastic clip. Ittook a bit of trial and error to place the eyes where they work best.When not in use, we remove the two port clips from the boom and clipthem to the port side of the base of the mast. Same for starboard.Total cost was under $15. It has worked well for us for over 3dropping sail. No flapping lines otherwise. Downside is that they don'tcome quite far enough aft....there is a bit of floppy sail aft afterits dropped, but hardly any. A third line on each side is probablyneeded to make it perfect.curious.
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Re: Sirocco
southsidemagician
--- In T27Owners@..., "capnjack_1999" <capnjack@...> wrote:
is "Sirocco". Correction: Southern Horizon is Hull # 257 ! Robbie Watts |
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