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Our hull is pretty banged up, but otherwise the boat is in good shape. Today I repainted the boot stripe and as I pulled off the low-tack tape bits of gel coat came off with the tape! What do I need

Thanks Carl. I’ll look into, those.

Yeah, I'm up the creek from the San Francisco bay. There's more marine stuff out here than you can shake a stick at, and also more boats. Demand outstrips supply. Then up here, marine

Uflex, Morse, Kobelt all make sail boat single lever controls. Also check with Moyer Marine. We are changing our double lever to a Uflex single. -- Carl Damm DAMSELv 1976 #593 Stuart Fl

Also a rigging shop, the whole aluminum goose neck may be standard, and most rigging shops have a good handle on custom fabrication in house or local. Here we use Florida rigging in Riviera Beach or

So, it looks like your primary problem is the aluminum ob the boom is failing.? Generally speaking, aluminum fabrication is less expensive in my experience. It may be easier to pull the end out of

Hello all, I emailed Rig Rite and a local fabricator and haven't heard back yet. Don't know if there's a huge long wait, a moderate wait, or I won't hear from them at all so thought I'd ask. Often

Given an Atomic 4 with your T27, what is your setup for throttle and shifter? Mine has a shifter in the starboard wall of the cockpit and a small knob in the same "niche" with the choke knob in the

Hey Guys, I presently am offering Sea Gypsy (hull #453) for sail. The boat has a great running Atomic 4, new exhaust system with modern water lift muffler. Fuel pump, carberator and both engine

Hi all, we’ve moved and I can’t continue my efforts to restore Moonshine. She’s got a near-new Universal m-18 and redone chain plates, but there are soft spots in the cockpit and the interior is

Congratulations on your new boat! We also inherited a toxic dump in the bilge. It probably had not been cleaned in a generation. The best we could do is what others suggested * Start with oil

When I cleaned my bilge I used Star brite Super Orange Citrus Bilge Cleaner and a wet-dry vac. I used used the cheap $25 bucket head shop-vac from home depot which fits on the 5 gallon buckets. I had

To remove the cutlass bearing, you can carefully use a sawzall with metal cutting blade to cut a notch or two into the circumference, then collapse the metal into itself and pull it out. Just be

Hi Scott, If I haven't already (it's been a looong year), welcome, and congratulations on the new-to-you sailboat. Deep Blue Yacht Supply seems to have a good selection of cutlass

Having just read John Bailey's remarks on removing the old cutlass bearing I am reminded that the method he describes is exactly how we did it.? Cut the bearing with a Sawzall metal blade and peel it

Hi Scott, Welcome. The cutlass bearing should be 4" long, inserted into the deadwood of the keel (there is no strut which is a metal thing that hangs down from the hull to hold the shaft that does not

Scott, I replaced Kiltie's cutlass about 6 years ago. She did not have set screws, although I have heard that some T27's do. The rubber is bonded to the bearing and is at least 2" long. I would

When we hauled our “new to us” boat for the first time for winter storage, we noticed this oddity on the shaft. It appears to be the rubber part of the cutlass bearing, working its way out of the

Thanks, Robert Mel?