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Emailing: 11hp-Farymann-32W-Diesel-Marine-Engine-Hurth-2-1-NOS_W0QQitemZ300247423479QQcmdZViewItem

CHRISTIAN BECKER
 

eBay Motors: 11hp Farymann 32W Diesel Marine Engine Hurth 2:1 NOS (item 300247423479 end time Aug-13-08 14:57:33 PDT)
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Back to list of items Listed in category: eBay Motors > Parts & Accessories > Boat Parts > Motors/Engines & Components > Marine Engines & Components > Diesel



11hp Farymann 32W Diesel Marine Engine Hurth 2:1 NOS Item number: 300247423479

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price: US $2,500.00 Buy It Now



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End time: Aug-13-08 14:57:33 PDT (7 days 5 hours)
Shipping costs: Freight - Check item description or contact seller for details
Ships to: United States
Item location: Foxboro, MA, United States

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Starting time: Aug-03-08 14:57:33 PDT
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Item Specifics


Title: 11hp Farymann 32W Diesel Marine Engine Hurth 2:1 NOS

Condition: New







Description (revised)

enginecom.com

Marine Diesel Engine
a.. Farymann marine diesel engine model 32W 11hp at 3000 rpm
b.. variable speed propulsion engine with ZF Hurth HBW50 2:1 transmission, google this brand for info and service centers
c.. I believe there is a distributor in NJ for this brand. Others support this model for generators etc.
d.. 12v starter and alternator included, with rubber mounts
e.. Raw water cooled wet exhaust, has a clocking compression release
f.. This is a small 1 cylinder engine suitable for small launch or sailboat, real thumper!
g.. new old stock never seen salt water, probably build in late 90s
h.. photo actual unit being sold, sold as is where is no warrantees
i.. will run on the floor no load for a minute, checking for oil pressure (indicator lamp), and spooled up
j.. direct injected, has excess fuel control for starting
k.. raw water impeller removed for quick test, is included with engine
l.. book and crank, no panel or wiring harness, has lamp senders
m.. email me cusdn@... or call 508-543-9068
n.. Weighs about 225#, about 275# on a pallet approx (close) dim 24" l x 23" h x 21" w
o.. mounts look like 19" on center port to starboard 12" mount length
p.. Ship via pre paid motor freight, email for a quote
q.. Sold without any warrantees, if you want to see it run come over for a test
r.. no returns, will include fresh 15w-40 (added for test)
s.. I have run these in machines and they are really beasts! Bit jumpy, as are most 1 lungers, and needs a good wet muffler. Very stingy on fuel.

--------------------------------------------------------------


--------------------------------------------------------------
New old stock sold as is as shown, buyers pays shipping insurance charges. Export buyers subject to crating charges. For orders payments in advance via wire, good certified check, pickup cash only plus tax. Paypal not accepted for this item. Allow time for checks to clear. See my other listings and site. On aceptance of your offer please submit a commercial address (marina) for best shipping quote. Mass residents pay 5% sales tax. Out of US wire transfer only. Payment must be made within 7 days after sale.
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All sales final on consignment items. Warrantees where noted. Bank check, cash, wire transfer, money orders only. PAYPAL not OK on this item.






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Item title: 11hp Farymann 32W Diesel Marine Engine Hurth 2:1 NOS
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Re: Lectra San

 

开云体育

Sorry for not responding earlier…. We had a storm scare so I was pre-occupied with getting ready for a potential hurricane.

?

My boat has some shelves behind the head on the port (left as looking forward) side.? They are immediately behind the chainplate and a bit in front of it.? I took out one of them and simply put the lectrasan right there.? It meets the treatment requirements and eliminates the holding tank requirements.? There are still places that are no discharge, so it’s not a perfect solution.??? If it were to go out I would install a holding tank under the v-berth immediately adjacent to the head.

?

I removed the “floor” in the v-berth when I installed an air conditioner.? I reasoned that I never sat up there anyway and so converting it to a permanent bunk and removing the floor and walls/doors would free up the needed space for an air conditioner

?

?

Brian Greul

Texas Shirt Company

713-802-0369 / 713-861-6261 (fax)

Targeted, Effective Promotions to help you grow your brand


Re: Lectra San

 

开云体育

Hi Brian.? Thanks so much for your response.? I'm a little confused.? Is your Lectra San elevated above the head?? According to Raritan, it's not supposed to be elevated above the head, but at or below the discharge coming from the head.? Is yours able to suck and pump crap uphill?? My T27 which I'm restoring, had a 6 gal holding tank stuffed at an angle inside the "compartment"?under the the port side v-berth.? I have a lot of photos of my restoration which I need to upload.? I really sincerely appreciate all of the time you spend sharing your insights with all of the other owners - VERY HELPFUL.
?
Jim Townsend,?#493
Barrington, RI?
?
In a message dated 8/6/2008 7:50:42 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, brian@... writes:

Sorry for not responding earlier…. We had a storm scare so I was pre-occupied with getting ready for a potential hurricane.

My boat has some shelves behind the head on the port (left as looking forward) side.? They are immediately behind the chainplate and a bit in front of it.? I took out one of them and simply put the lectrasan right there.? It meets the treatment requirements and eliminates the holding tank requirements.? There are still places that are no discharge, so it’s not a perfect solution.??? If it were to go out I would install a holding tank under the v-berth immediately adjacent to the head.

I removed the “floor” in the v-berth when I installed an air conditioner.? I reasoned that I never sat up there anyway and so converting it to a permanent bunk and removing the floor and walls/doors would free up the needed space for an air conditioner

Brian Greul

Texas Shirt Company

713-802-0369 / 713-861-6261 (fax)

Targeted, Effective Promotions to help you grow your brand





Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? .


Lectra San

 

Hi mates. Does anyone use, or has installed a Lectra San MSD? Brian
mentioned that he has a Lectra San MSD. Where/how
did you install it. I've about given up trying to figure out how to
do it since everything is so cramped, including the space under the
port V-berth.

Thanks much.

Jim, #493


Re: im looking to buy a 1960's or 1970's boat

 

Hi Brian. You mentioned that you have a Lectra San MSD. Where/how
did you install it. I've about given up trying to figure out how to
do it since everything is so cramped, including the space under the
port V-berth.

Thanks much.

Jim, #493




--- In T27Owners@..., <brian@...> wrote:

Peter,

This group is the right place to post a wanted ad. I would
suggest
letting us know where you are and how much you want to spend. It's
also
good to specify what you are willing to do workwise.



Depending on the price mine might be for sale. I've thought about
upgrading to something a little bigger, but I haven't formally
listed
the boat.



My boat is in good condition, however, like every other 60's boat
she
has a project list that is active. Practically every T-27 needs
some
work, somewhere, at some point or another. However, mine has AC,
Diesel
engine, fuel gauge, 110V power panel, 3 110V outlets, lectrasan MSD,
cockpit shower, new topside and deck paint, rollerfurling,
GPS/Chartplotter, a bimini, 2 yr old lifelines and rigging, 2
burner
alcohol stove. Mostly new electrical system. Oversize alternator.
Mine
is painted blue with white deck and light-grey non-skid (kiwigrip).
Teak is mostly cetol and is maintained. Projects include: re-do
bimini
to match new trim colors, deal with cockpit drain leak (minor, pipe
needs to be epoxied back) , deal with icebox leak (minor but
irritating), replace centerboard (it sails fine without it honestly
for
95% of the time), oh and it's probably due for a bottom paint this
fall.
Mine is hull # 71 and currently in Houston, TX. (Kemah). The right
price would be about $16,000. For reference:
that boat went for $24K.
Mine isn't quite as nice, but it's in great condition for the age
and
everyone compliments her. She's extremely capable and I had her out
Thursday in 25 mph wind, current, and 2-3 waves in the bay. While
we
didn't have time to sail to our intended destination, we practically
flew back to home port doing 6.5 and 7knts motor sailing with just
the
jib. I was motor sailing because I was in the Houston Ship channel
which is one of the busiest shipping lanes on the Gulf coast. We
did
not make it to our intended destination because we wouldn't clear a
busy
and potentially dangerous area before nightfall and there was no
moon
Thursday night.



Brian Greul

Texas Shirt Company www.txshirts.com <>

713-802-0369 / 713-861-6261 (fax)

Targeted, Effective Promotions to help you grow your brand


Re: im looking to buy a 1960's or 1970's boat

 

开云体育

Peter,

? This group is the right place to post a wanted ad.? I would suggest letting us know where you are and how much you want to spend.? It’s also good to specify what you are willing to do workwise.

?

Depending on the price mine might be for sale.? I’ve thought about upgrading to something a little bigger, but I haven’t formally listed the boat.

?

My boat is in good condition, however, like every other 60’s boat she has a project list that is active.? Practically every T-27 needs some work, somewhere, at some point or another.? However, mine has AC, Diesel engine, fuel gauge, 110V power panel, 3 110V outlets, lectrasan MSD, cockpit shower, new topside and deck paint, rollerfurling, GPS/Chartplotter, ?a bimini, 2 yr old lifelines and rigging, 2 burner alcohol stove. ?Mostly new electrical system.? Oversize alternator. Mine is painted blue with white deck and light-grey non-skid (kiwigrip).? Teak is mostly cetol and is maintained.? Projects include: re-do bimini to match new trim colors, deal with cockpit drain leak (minor, pipe needs to be epoxied back) , deal with icebox leak (minor but irritating), replace centerboard (it sails fine without it honestly for 95% of the time), oh and it’s probably due for a bottom paint this fall.? Mine is hull # 71 and currently in Houston, TX. (Kemah).? ?The right price would be about $16,000.? ??For reference: ? that boat went for $24K.? Mine isn’t quite as nice, but it’s in great condition for the age and everyone compliments her.? She’s extremely capable and I had her out Thursday in 25 mph wind, current, and 2-3 waves in the bay.? While we didn’t have time to sail to our intended destination, we practically flew back to home port doing 6.5 and 7knts motor sailing with just the jib.? I was motor sailing because I was? in the Houston Ship channel which is one of the busiest shipping lanes on the Gulf coast.? ?We did not make it to our intended destination because we wouldn’t clear a busy and potentially dangerous area before nightfall and there was no moon Thursday night.

?

Brian Greul

Texas Shirt Company

713-802-0369 / 713-861-6261 (fax)

Targeted, Effective Promotions to help you grow your brand


Re: im looking to buy a 1960's or 1970's boat

 

just some personal thoughts.... i, too, as looking at T27's. unless
you absolutely have to have the shallow draft (not a bad thing) don't
limit yourself to T27's. I looked at over 10 T27's. the best one i
saw is now featured in the pic you see on this website. i was going
to buy that boat, but it needed to be painted, and i wasn up for that
sort of work. and they were stuck on $6k. i offered $4.5k, and they
scoffed. nice broker and seller, though. i'm glad he sold it.

i mention that boat because every other T27 i saw needed deck work of
some sort. half had soft floor timbers. oy. also, the afterdecks on
the post 74 boats bon't drain and they are almost all spongy. these
were deal breakers for me.

here is the list of boats i considered:

Sabre 28: nothing not to like but the price. probably the best of the
bunch. if i had it to do again, i might have bought the 1980 version
i was looking at. be prepared to drop $13-15k for a good one. i was
fixated on sub-$10k boats, so the Sabre 28's i considered were just
too pricey. nicest construction of any boat i saw. flawless glass
work. my advice: be flexible and get a type I boat with the atomic 4
and don't worry about it. decent type I's can be had for 50%-70% the
price of the type II's. a decent $7500 type I sabre 28 may be one of
the best deals in used sailboatdom

Pearson 28: this is the boat i bought. i got a cosmetly challenged
boat for $2000. hull/decks/mast step/rig/rudder/all else were ROCK
SOLID. amazingly, the port lights don't even leak! also, these are
absolute hot rods. keel stepped mast, 44% balast ratio, 5 foot draft,
(10) 3/4" keel bolts and a very beefy keel stub. more like what you'd
see on a 30'-34' boat. IOR influenced, but not to the extreme. a
balanced boat. she tacks through 70 degrees in the right conditions,
but even when thisgs are snotty, she'll tack under 80 degrees. and
stiff. way stiff. but i reef early to keep her flat and moving
fast. good in light air, too. downside is the interior. no real
galley stove or anywhere to put one. and the head is absolutely
tiny. also, the v-berth is a bit pinched. but 2 people that like
each other can still sleep there. saloon setee's are really too
narrow. the designer added floor space at the expense of setee
width. a bad trade-off me thinks. probablt the best sailing boat on
this list.

Cal 27 and 29: awesome boats. cal 29's are big boats. all 4 cal 29's
i saw had structural issues with either decks and/or mast compression
supports. the latter is a silver bullet to the heart for these
boats. the 27 is lovely, but there aren't many on the east coast. i
almost bought one. it was beautiful. no flaws whatsoever. rock
solid everwhere. but it had a wheel, and i didn't want a wheel in a
27' boat. there's a rightness to both of these boats. lapworth boats
are all good.

Catalina 27: i wanted the outboard version with tall rig and i simply
couldn't find one. i have actually sailed on one of these boats and
can assure you that they sail extremely well. construction on the
half dozen or so boats i saw was way above average. all except one
had dry decks, but the bad one was really bad.

S2 8.5: the one i looked at was simply too expensive. great boat,
though.

Tartan 27: see comments above

C&C 27: every one i looked at had deck issues and the interiors are
cheesy.

Erickson 27 and 29: (if you find a good erickson 29 jump on it)
lovely, balanced boats. both 29's i was negotiating over sold to a
higher offer. i love the design of these boats. beautiful interiors,
too. won't point as high as the pearson, S2, or Sabre, but do you
really care?

Cape Dory 28: (came w/i an inch of getting one of these, and if i had
it to do again, i would have bought the CD). these boats are way-
cool. if the boat i was looking at wasn't in boston, i'd own it now.
i may still buy one. but i haven't sailed one. i'm trying to beg a
test sail from someone on the cape dory list, but have been
unsuccessful thus far.


best of luck to you in your search! any of the above boats will be
great. get he first one that is in good cond and is priced right.
don't get fixated on one make/model of boat (unless of course you must
have the shallow draft. in that case, i'd get a T27 and just fix up
whatever needed fixing) personally, i set one big boundry: no
fiberglass work, and i don't want to (have to) paint the
decks/topsides for at least 2 years. also, remember that after a boat
has been painted, you have no idea what it looked like before. i'd
rather have a slightly faded boat that will need painting somewhere
down the road than a boat that has an amature paint job. also, the
engine had to be in very good condition. rusty old A4's are out. The
A4 on my P28 looks almost brand new. no rust at all. it's really
sort of amazing. sails, running rigging, compas, electronics, etc:
don't worry about them. you'll be replacing all that stuff anyway. i
obsessed over sails, and in retrospect it was wasted concern. if the
sails are half way decent, they are good enough. roller furling? on
27-28 foot boats you don't really need it. but RF is nice. if you
feel you must have it, remember that an old RF may be junk, so always
keep in mind that a RF and sail will cost you $2.5k minimum (for
decent stuff).

cheers,

rw
--- In T27Owners@..., "peterscommitment"
<peterscommitment@...> wrote:

i know his might not be the place to post this, but if
anyone knows of a decent T27 for sale, i would appreciate the
info...thank you


Re: im looking to buy a 1960's or 1970's boat

 

--- In T27Owners@..., "peterscommitment"
<peterscommitment@...> wrote:

i know his might not be the place to post this, but if
anyone knows of a decent T27 for sale, i would appreciate the
info...thank you
There is a T27 that recently appeared on the Tartanowners.org site in
the classifieds in Lorain, OH. It looks like it's well appointed and
reasonably priced. There is also a T27 yawl that's been out of the water
a couple of years with an owner anxious to sell in Cleveland. If
interested, I'll send you the contact info. I think both are 60's
boats.....Bill


im looking to buy a 1960's or 1970's boat

 

i know his might not be the place to post this, but if
anyone knows of a decent T27 for sale, i would appreciate the
info...thank you


Larchmont trip

 

Richard,
Thanks for doing the write-up of your trip to Larchmont. I enjoyed the ending as well as the beginning. You both overcame some challenging problems.
I am glad that my own delivery of my T27 went smoothly from East Hampton to Hempstead Harbor without half the challenges you both overcame. The A4 is a worthy, if ancient and simple motor but it is not without its foibles that I have learned much more about since then.
Our T27 came with a (nearly) full set of different sized hank on jibs (#1, #2 etc) and with a roller furled 176% genoa on the Harken RF. It was great for light air but did not hold its shape so well when furled in a bit. Too bad that genny got destroyed (don't ask). We ended up replacing the Harken RF unit with a Furlex and got a new 150% genny from a Doyle shop that has worked well and holds it's shape better when pulled in a bit. I was a bit torn when replacing the RF unit as I thought it might be nice to try the old hank on sails as you can't have it both ways. My boat partners pushed for the RF unit and it was done. I agree with you that the T27 really likes to have a nice, well balanced sail plan depending on conditions. It can hold its own in some chop as long as it is tuned for what is happening out there.
Glad you got to feel a T27 surging along and parting the waves with the A4 off after all the work you both did. Congrats on a successful delivery to Larchmont, NY. Now if I could just get through the rather comprehensive piece by Rod A. Stephens (?) that Chris sent us I may actually learn something while not out sailing.
I hope everyones summer is going well.
Caleb D.
T27 #328 'Odalisque', 1967

-----Original Message-----
From: rshearley <rshearley@...>
To: T27Owners@...
Sent: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 7:48 pm
Subject: [T27Owners] Larchmont trip

I managed to finish up the account of the Trip and have it posted in
the files section.. sorry not a pdf file yet.. I will try and convert
it later... unless someone else wants to do it for me...
Rich


------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Larchmont trip

 

I managed to finish up the account of the Trip and have it posted in
the files section.. sorry not a pdf file yet.. I will try and convert
it later... unless someone else wants to do it for me...
Rich


Re: Emailing: RAS_On_Sailing_Master

CHRISTIAN BECKER
 

开云体育

I do not know who Mary is but she will have to get in line.
?
My sister who died of cancer a few years ago sailed with Rod a few times and was deeply in love with him. I know now that they are in heaven sailing what in our family is referred to a Swan 65. I am sure that there are many others in the line here on earth now too.
?
He was a great person in many ways. It is great that we have this document and some of the others concerning S&S as well, not just Tartan 27 owners but the world of sailing. He brought so much common sense to sailing and life. His of % and other calculations are too base and too good not to make a standard.
?
There are some other designers that use the result of a simple formula to come up with an index number for a give boat. With that index number, many aspects of the design and size/engineering work is based. I have done some work based on some of the good design books of our day. When you see some of the common base line things, you can see why one can use a simple result for the base line for many parts of the design process for a given boat. David Geer seems to have that index down, very well.
?
We owe a lot to Rod and one sees it often. Keep him in your prayers.
?
Peace,
Chris Becker

----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2008 11:13 AM
Subject: RE: [T27Owners] Emailing: RAS_On_Sailing_Master

Mary,
?
I would like to feel your hart beating.


Steve



To: ;
From: uni@cyburban.com
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 06:29:22 -0400
Subject: [T27Owners] Emailing: RAS_On_Sailing_Master


?
The message is ready to be sent with the following file or link attachments:
Shortcut to:

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Stay in touch when you're away with Windows Live Messenger.


Re: Emailing: RAS_On_Sailing_Master

 

开云体育

Mary,
?
I would like to feel your hart beating.


Steve



To: ;
From: uni@...
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 06:29:22 -0400
Subject: [T27Owners] Emailing: RAS_On_Sailing_Master


?
The message is ready to be sent with the following file or link attachments:
Shortcut to:

Note: To protect against computer viruses, e-mail programs may prevent sending or receiving certain types of file attachments.? Check your e-mail security settings to determine how attachments are handled.




Stay in touch when you're away with Windows Live Messenger.


Emailing: RAS_On_Sailing_Master

CHRISTIAN BECKER
 

开云体育

?
The message is ready to be sent with the following file or link attachments:
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Centerboard

 

I recently purchased a used trailer for the boat. I ended up jacking
the boat up about 6 inches or so to get dimensions to make sure the
trailer would work.. I think it will.
This enabled me to drop the board. Having done this before I has leery
but I marked up the board really well and it should go back in without
much problem (!) I had noticed that where the pennant entered the
board there was a lot of delamination and splitting. It appeared that
the cast iron plate the pennant attached to was rotted. I marked out
the area that looked swollen and chiseled out the skin. I had believed
the board was one solid piece covered with a skin but in fact the
pennant attachment plate is set in just plain epoxy and I ended up
removing it rather too easily.
What I want to do is replace this piece and reset it within the board.
Has anyone encountered smiler problems and what have been your
solutions to them.
I'm thinking of grinding down the area around where I cut out the
plate and glassing in a possibly stainless piece with carbon fiber or
kevlar. The pin hole looks to be in fine condition. I posted some
pictures and as you can see there was not a lot holding the pennant
fitting in the metal plate and the epoxy that held the plate in the
actual board was brittle and chipped so essentially the fiberglass
matting skin was the only thing keeping the pennant attached.
Thanks in advance...


Re: Starboard leaks

 

Yes I still have some balsa. Something like 8-10 sq ft of 1/2 inch and about half or a third that much of 3/4, if anyone needs it. I don't see myself using it any time soon. Call if you want it c803?600 7831.

?

Billy Ray Davis

Scarlet # 79


--- On Sat, 7/19/08, ksmith4312 wrote:

From: ksmith4312
Subject: [T27Owners] Re: Starboard leaks
To: T27Owners@...
Date: Saturday, July 19, 2008, 9:16 AM

Sorry my hull # is 442 1970 and I recently moved on board. Little
tight but for one is do able. I think you and I may have talked
seems like you had some left over balsa? --- In
T27Owners@yahoogrou ps.com, Bill Davis wrote:
>
> Dear Sir,
> ?
> I have just finished re-coring my entire deck and about 1/2 of the
cabin top. Depending on where the fitting is placed you either have a
core between two layers of fiberglass of balsa or marine grade
plywood in that area. A simple fix is to inject epoxy and drill a
pilot hole for the screws. You may have to inject it several times if
it is balsa before you have a substantial base to work with. Be sure
and use caulk before you mount the fitting. If done properly that
should last you for a long time unless your balsa is all rotted out
like mine was!
> ?
> We all like to know who we are communicating with and your hull
number!
> ?
> Billy Ray Davis
> Scarlet #79
>
> --- On Fri, 7/18/08, ksmith4312 wrote:
>
> From: ksmith4312
> Subject: [T27Owners] Starboard leaks
> To: T27Owners@yahoogrou ps.com
> Date: Friday, July 18, 2008, 12:15 PM
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I am getting minor leaking on the starboard side at the quarter
berth.
> One of the spots appeared to be where a bimini was attached (not
thru
> bolted) when I stick a toothpick in the hole it feels like there
may
> be a liner at that point is this possible?
>



Re: Starboard leaks

ksmith4312
 

Matthias
I am located at Apollo Beach. I have seen some pictures of your boat
she is a beauty

Kent
--- In T27Owners@..., Matthias Klemm <matjes33@...> wrote:

K.,
That's interesting! Where are you located? I have been living
aboard
in Florida since November 2006 (though I have spent the summers in
a
house up north). It's also interesting since I also have a leak in
the
quarterberth area that I haven't figured out yet. Though I have a
couple of suspects: There is a hole from an earlier compass mounted
on
the seat area in front of the companion way and the other is from
the
engine instrument panel in the cockpit well.

Matthias
Carpe Diem
#484 1970


On Jul 19, 2008, at 9:16 AM, ksmith4312 wrote:

Sorry my hull # is 442 1970 and I recently moved on board. Little
tight but for one is do able. I think you and I may have talked
seems like you had some left over balsa? --- In
T27Owners@..., Bill Davis <backstay13@> wrote:

Dear Sir,

I have just finished re-coring my entire deck and about 1/2 of
the
cabin top. Depending on where the fitting is placed you either
have a
core between two layers of fiberglass of balsa or marine grade
plywood in that area. A simple fix is to inject epoxy and drill a
pilot hole for the screws. You may have to inject it several
times if
it is balsa before you have a substantial base to work with. Be
sure
and use caulk before you mount the fitting. If done properly that
should last you for a long time unless your balsa is all rotted
out
like mine was!

We all like to know who we are communicating with and your hull
number!

Billy Ray Davis
Scarlet #79

--- On Fri, 7/18/08, ksmith4312 <ksmith4312@> wrote:

From: ksmith4312 <ksmith4312@>
Subject: [T27Owners] Starboard leaks
To: T27Owners@...
Date: Friday, July 18, 2008, 12:15 PM






I am getting minor leaking on the starboard side at the quarter
berth.
One of the spots appeared to be where a bimini was attached (not
thru
bolted) when I stick a toothpick in the hole it feels like there
may
be a liner at that point is this possible?


------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links



Re: Patience in the Bahamas

Matthias Klemm
 

Yeah, I want to know all that too but I'm especially curious about the dink question.

Matthias

On Jul 19, 2008, at 12:17 PM, calebjess@... wrote:

Walt,
I am glad to hear that you and Gail had a nice 2.5 month cruise on
Patience in the Bahamas. I would think that the T27 would be ideally
suited to anchoring in some of the skinny water there drawing only 3.5'
with the board up.
I am a bit curious about what sort of 'extras' you had on board for the
ride.
Did you have a life-raft, auto pilot, radar, Sat phone (or SSB), Epirb,
chart-plotter? I am pretty sure you had paper charts.
Do you still have the original Atomic 4 engine or does Patience sport a
diesel?
What sort of dink do you have and where/how do you tow/stow it?
I ask about the 'extras' not because I am a safety nut but because I
recently crewed on a passage from Tortola to Turks & Caicos on a 51'
Benny that was rigged for ocean cruising and had all of that stuff.
There were only 2 of us on that passage of 400+ nm.
I just can't visualize having some of those electronics in the limited
amount of space below on a T27.
Is Patience still steered by a tiller?
I am just mostly curious. I am sure there are others here that are
envious of your latest cruise as I am.
Thanks for sharing.
Caleb Davison
T27 #327 'Odalisque', 1967
Nyack, NY

-----Original Message-----
From: Walt <gailwalt@...>
To: T27Owners@...
Sent: Sat, 19 Jul 2008 8:42 am
Subject: [T27Owners] Patience Photo

We just submitted (finally) a photo of our boat Patience.
Please have a look in photos. Photo by Kay, on Jammin T37.
It was taken during our 2.5 month cruise to the Bahams.
Life can be good!!!
Walt & Gail, Patience, T27-2,#695


------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links






------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links



Patience in the Bahamas

 

Walt,
I am glad to hear that you and Gail had a nice 2.5 month cruise on Patience in the Bahamas. I would think that the T27 would be ideally suited to anchoring in some of the skinny water there drawing only 3.5' with the board up.
I am a bit curious about what sort of 'extras' you had on board for the ride.
Did you have a life-raft, auto pilot, radar, Sat phone (or SSB), Epirb, chart-plotter? I am pretty sure you had paper charts.
Do you still have the original Atomic 4 engine or does Patience sport a diesel?
What sort of dink do you have and where/how do you tow/stow it?
I ask about the 'extras' not because I am a safety nut but because I recently crewed on a passage from Tortola to Turks & Caicos on a 51' Benny that was rigged for ocean cruising and had all of that stuff. There were only 2 of us on that passage of 400+ nm.
I just can't visualize having some of those electronics in the limited amount of space below on a T27.
Is Patience still steered by a tiller?
I am just mostly curious. I am sure there are others here that are envious of your latest cruise as I am.
Thanks for sharing.
Caleb Davison
T27 #327 'Odalisque', 1967
Nyack, NY

-----Original Message-----
From: Walt <gailwalt@...>
To: T27Owners@...
Sent: Sat, 19 Jul 2008 8:42 am
Subject: [T27Owners] Patience Photo

We just submitted (finally) a photo of our boat Patience.
Please have a look in photos. Photo by Kay, on Jammin T37.
It was taken during our 2.5 month cruise to the Bahams.
Life can be good!!!
Walt & Gail, Patience, T27-2,#695


------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: SI-TEX Depth gage

 


I posted the manual I have for the SI-TEX, it's the next model number up from yours but I'm sure there are minimal differences.