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bilge pumps / Re: [T27Owners] Centerboard Trunk Leak
Possible single points of failure are shore power/charger, fuse, the
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pump, the float, wiring, switch, and battery. The fuse is about the only thing I haven't had problems with but other people often do. Pumps that have to run often quickly burn out. Floats get stuck open on gunk or wedged on a wire or come adrift and fall over and burn out pumps and run down batteries. Wiring starting to develop resistance takes out fuses. I had two floats, each with their own wiring and pump, one on shore power directly, but I'm getting around to adding a second battery for it. There's a small amount of solar just to tend the first battery since I keep having issues with shore power (given how much Murphy hates me, I should not be sailing). Plan to add a bit larger 50 or 100 watt one for the second battery. All of this is 4200'd down to the bilge floor and (I'm sorry, I'm repeating myself) after fiberglassing over about 20 screw holes in the bilge floor I'm still finding them. I'm trying to do redundant everything because everything is suspect. Heck, I'd do redundant shore power if I could. So far, a shore power cable went bad, the boat's plug is now even more flakey after a late winter storm, and California starts turning off the grid in dry summer storms when we aren't doing rolling blackouts. Clearly I need a shore stand-by power diesel generator with its own cord and charger to backup shore power. All of that is still woefully inadequate given a leak worse than a rapid drip. A lot of people, especially the mobo set, seem to think, oh, my tiny little bilge pump that kicks on every hour is doing a fine job of keeping up with the water coming in, it's fine, then are shocked when the pump burns out after two months of that. This hull #93 came with a leak and a pump that soon gave up. -scott On 0, Carl Damm <cfdamm@...> wrote:
We often rewire Auto Off On bilge switches so off and Auto are the |
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