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bilge pumps / Re: [T27Owners] Centerboard Trunk Leak


 

Possible single points of failure are shore power/charger, fuse, the
pump, the float, wiring, switch, and battery. The fuse is about the
only thing I haven't had problems with but other people often do.

Pumps that have to run often quickly burn out. Floats get stuck
open on gunk or wedged on a wire or come adrift and fall over and
burn out pumps and run down batteries. Wiring starting to develop
resistance takes out fuses.

I had two floats, each with their own wiring and pump, one on
shore power directly, but I'm getting around to adding a second
battery for it. There's a small amount of solar just to tend the
first battery since I keep having issues with shore power (given
how much Murphy hates me, I should not be sailing). Plan to add
a bit larger 50 or 100 watt one for the second battery.

All of this is 4200'd down to the bilge floor and (I'm sorry,
I'm repeating myself) after fiberglassing over about 20 screw
holes in the bilge floor I'm still finding them.

I'm trying to do redundant everything because everything is
suspect. Heck, I'd do redundant shore power if I could. So far,
a shore power cable went bad, the boat's plug is now even more
flakey after a late winter storm, and California starts turning
off the grid in dry summer storms when we aren't doing rolling
blackouts. Clearly I need a shore stand-by power diesel
generator with its own cord and charger to backup shore power.

All of that is still woefully inadequate given a leak worse than a
rapid drip. A lot of people, especially the mobo set, seem to think,
oh, my tiny little bilge pump that kicks on every hour is doing a fine
job of keeping up with the water coming in, it's fine, then are
shocked when the pump burns out after two months of that. This
hull #93 came with a leak and a pump that soon gave up.

-scott

On 0, Carl Damm <cfdamm@...> wrote:
We often rewire Auto Off On bilge switches so off and Auto are the
same, eliminating the off function. Also concur that Auto should be one
of the very few (if not the only) thing wired direct to the battery.
I like a separate power supply that goes on and off with the battery
switch for the manual on.
That way when bilge pump runs the battery down and the higher amperage
draw caused by low voltage blows the fuse, and you come down and
discover the problem, start engine or shore power, the manuel side
still has a good fuse now that you have restored the voltage. S I you
can pump the bilge asap.
It seems long winded, but is quite common and provides a redundant path
to get power to the pump.
You could make an argument to have manual and Auto connected to
different banks, but this would require blocking diodes to keep from
back feeding a discharge bank.

Check you tube for "lessons learned from sinking my boat"
[1]
Gives some food for thought. Particularly like the thought about a high
and dry battery.
We also have a high water alarm powered by a 9 volt, like a smoke
detector, so if the 12 volt dies, some one might hear the alarm.
--
Carl Damm
DAMSELv
1976 #593
Stuart Fl

References

1.


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