Patrick,
I know I mentioned using a hack saw, but if you have a power scroll saw it will be much easier.? As I said 1/8" steel is strong enough. Cut the metal small and then file the open end for a tight fit on the nut and lock nut.
Michael
On 11/13/2020 9:01 PM Patrick McGough <patrick.mcgough@...> wrote:
Brett, I have read that those wrenches that you referenced from Home Depot have too much slop.? The idea of making a set of wrenches like the ones from York seems appealing...I have the metal,? ?It just seems funny that those York wrenches can't be gotten elsewhere...
On Fri, Nov 13, 2020 at 8:42 PM Brent Bass <
BJBass@...> wrote:
Good luck!
If you are talking about this type of wrench (
), which I also see listed on the West Marine website under "packing nut wrench," I did not have luck with them (more frustration than anything else) and that is what led me to getting the York ones (
- it does take a few days to get them, though). Hopefully you will get the stuffing box to open up one way or another. Once it's open, it doesn't need to really be clamped back down very hard - the biggest hurdle is the initial?breaking them free. Mine is currently slightly beyond hand tight.
I have that exact same set of picks.? I am wondering if I can get the wrenches locally at West Marine, Home Depot to get this job done when we hit the low tides and winds on Sunday.? Going to have the 3/16 and 1/4 and have them cut and ready for whichever fits the best.? I like the Duramax...
On Fri, Nov 13, 2020 at 7:04 PM Brent Bass <
BJBass@...> wrote:
I picked up a pick set from Harbor Freight for removing and inserting the flax packing that I used. The hook worked well for removal and the ~90 degree one worked well to pack the new stuff in.
Still think Dura Max is the way to go:
?
Put it in and forgetaboutit!
On Fri, Nov 13, 2020 at 5:27 PM Caleb Davison via
<calebjess=
[email protected]> wrote:
Hi Michael,
I have to agree with everything your wrote, particularly this:
If you ram in the packing it is already compressed and can not be loosened effectively, thus causing problems of heat and too much friction.?
Which is why the 3/16" packing seemed to work better for me than the 1/4" stuff I had to jam in there.? Not all stuffing boxes are created equally.? 3/16" just worked better for me and my old bronze stuffing box. YMMV.
Best,
Caleb D.
T27 #328
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Connolly <
crufone@...>
To:
[email protected];
jeremy@...
Sent: Fri, Nov 13, 2020 11:15 am
Subject: Re: [T27Owners] Stuffing Box
Jeremy, Caleb, Patrick,
Caleb, the stuffing should press into the cavity around the shaft with little to no pressure. The ends of the cavity and nut should be tapered.? As the nut is drawn up the packing compresses and pushes against the outside of the cavity and the shaft as well.? This is what causes the seal.? If you ram in the packing it is already compressed and can not be loosened effectively, thus causing problems of heat and too much friction.? You can also purchase rope packing and wind it loosely around the shaft inside the cavity until it is full, carefully pushing it into the cavity as you go. Run the nut in and then back off the nut so you can place more into the cavity.? Fill it until you can get the nut on perhaps two threads.? Then you are good to go.? Tightening the gland nut puts tremendous pressure on the packing creating the seal.
Jeremy, when you purchase a new box off the shelf it very well may be different than what was it you boat originally, even for the same shaft size.? The T-27 as well as the Alberg 30 were standard production boats and they vary from one to another depending what was on hand at the time of their build.? Builders bought stuffing boxes in quantity.? When that supply ran out they bought whatever was at the best price at that time.?
Patrick, the clamps pictured in the link for the stuffing box Jeremy bought are exactly the type of clamps you should be using on the hose. They make a set of packing removal tools.? They have a flexible shaft with a cork screw type working end and a "T" handle to turn them into the packing.
Best to you all,
Michael
?
Caleb,
3/16" packing is what you want to go with your 1" shaft and stuffing box.? 1/4" is too tight (don't ask me how I know this).
Alas. I am going to ask. I have repacked my stuffing box twice -- once in the water, and again when I replaced the entire stuffing box with a brand new one. According to the manufacturers website, the new stuffing box I am using does require 1/4" stuffing. However, I feel like packing the new glad was much harder than when I did it the first time. However, I have no records as to what size I used for the first time. (But, then I got smart and started keeping records, which is how I know I used 1/4" the second time).
Since the second time was with a new shaft and a new stuffing box, I wondered if the difference was that I used a different size packing material, or if it was just that everything was new.
I have not relaunched since I repacked, so I can not report on how it works in practice.
Here is my data saying that 1/4" is the 'official recommendation':
I can see you have been recommending the 3/16" over the 1/4" for at least 8 years,
I guess I am wondering if your recommendation has always been contrary to what the manufacturer recommends, or do I actually have a slightly different setup?
Given that I just paid for a new prop shaft, I am inclined to re-repack with the 3/16" and only re-re-repack with 1/4" if it seems to be dripping too much.
- jeremy
--
Patrick McGough
Ship 7117 - Skipper
--
Patrick McGough
Ship 7117 - Skipper
