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> On Jan 13, 2020, at 9:35 PM, jeremy@... wrote:
>
> ?
> Ahoy,
>
> I am trying to figure out a reasonable way to repair the tube that pennant for the centerboard goes through.
>
> Mine has been partially sawed through. I know this is a common problem, but I am not sure what viable repairs exist. I searched the group but the results were not super illuminating.
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> To prevent the problem from getting worse, I can fashion a bushing from wood or plastic so that any future rubbing happens there. I generally haul my boat for the winter, so I can inspect that every year (and replace as needed).
>
> But, I am not sure how concerned I should be about the existing wear on the pipe. The wear is worst at the top and bottom. At the top you can see the backside of the threads of the nipple. There is much less wear in the middle of the pipe.
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> I am somewhat concerned that when I put the hose clamps on I could accidentally crush the pipe.
>
> So, I wonder, is there a practical way to 'repair' the pipe.
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> Here are some thoughts:
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> 1. Remove the old tube and epoxy a new one in place.
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> I have several concerns about this approach. It is not clear to me that epoxy sticks super well to bronze. I only have access to one side of the repair. I could cause additional damage trying to get the old tube out. There would also only be limited surface area for the epoxy to mechanically bond to the existing polyester in the truck.
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> In summary, it seems like a tricky repair and it is not clear how strong it will be.
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> 2. Epoxy a 1.5" OD fiberglass tube around the existing tube
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> I would attach the new tube with epoxy and fiberglass to the trunk so that it does not rely on the remaining integrity of the existing tube. I'd also fill the gap between the tubes with thickened epoxy. That is in part structural, but also keeps the water from pooling between the two pipes. Maybe not important, but can't hurt? It's sort of a belt and suspenders fix.
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> This is probably the strongest repair and is also fairly non-invasive. I am only adding stuff, not removing or cutting anything. I can't imagine how this repair could result in things being worse than when I started.
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> The 'problem' with this approach is that I now need a larger diameter hose to sleeve the pennant (one with a 1.5" ID). That is only a minor issue -- except that it will be too fat to fit through the holes in the wooden covers on top of the companionway stairs.
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> I considered trying to use a hose-mender (aka, hose reducer) to reduce the 1.5" ID hose to a 1" ID hose so that I would not have to cut a large hole in the boards, but I could not find one with those dimensions for sale.
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> So, this repair should work -- I just have to suck it up and cut the wood.
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> 3. 4200 a smaller bronze tube inside the existing tube
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> This solution is perhaps the weakest. It would provide some extra support so that the hose clamps would not crush the outer pipe. But, the 4200 is flexible -- so it will still give some potential flex.
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> Also, finding a tube that can fit inside the existing tube might substantially reduce the ID making it harder to fit a wood/plastic bushing.
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> The advantage of this solution is that I can use the same size hose. (One with a 1" ID).
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> This repair is also the least invasive. Because the tube inside is installed with 4200, it could be removed or replaced. So, I can always opt to use a different method later.
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> 4. Remove the centerboard and glass over the trunk from the outside.
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> This most effectively solves the pennant tube issue -- but I am not ready to get rid of my centerboard.
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> 5. <your idea here>
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> What do people generally do? Anyone have regrets or success?
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> - jeremy
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>