Guys,
?
I've been through the same process that Marty mentions on chainplates very recently and agree with everything he says except, beg borrow or steal a Fein Multitool to cut out the old chainplates. It only took about an hour and a half for both. Put them back in the same place! If you?do anthing different you have to buy new shrouds or reinforce the deckhouse plus you kill the valve of the boat. Re-inventing the wheel seldom works.
?
Billy Ray Davis
Scarlet #79
Marty Levenson wrote:
Actually, I disagree. Our 1968 chainplates looked fine from the outside, but when I opened up the encased knee the bolts were half gone...rusted away. There is no way to know if water has ever migrated there (even through wet core?) through the years, without looking.?
I replaced the knees with epoxy encased plywood and rebolted using ss. The bolts now go through the fiberglass as well as the knee. I'm sure you can do something quite safe taking the shroud out to the hull, but why sacrifice any pointing ability? The port knee I did mostly using a grinder and it was really arduous and suffocating! For the starboard knee I found a better system: drilled a series of approx 3/8" holes edge to edge along the inboard edge of the knee and then pried it apart with a wide chisel. Much easier. After replacing the knee, able to pull the two "faces"
of that glass back together and through bolt.
Hope that is useful,
Marty
"Poseidon" Vancouver
On 24-Apr-08, at 6:48 PM, ksmith4312 wrote:
My rigger says outboard is best. I kind of like that idea. However
IMO having lasted 38 years is not a weakness, as a big part of the
problem is proper sealing of the chainplates at the deck, repairing
the existing is good too
Be a better friend, newshound, and
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.
