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Re: T 27 Rudder


 

Same as Carl/Adam (asant2), very near the top, but still inside the
fiberglass. Bronze rudder post. 1965, rare west coast WD Schock
build (#93). Happened just about several years ago now. Twisting
force is concentrated there. Went in to the rocks, then got towed by
Tow Boat US (thankfully not a super blustery day where I was getting
pounded) to a small yard that sent the rudder to Svendon's (a large
and well known place out here that works on boats, small and large).
One more pintle and gudgeon would be most welcome, as Carl wrote
about. If I were far from anywhere, that would keep the rudder from
completely falling out, and help reduce how much of the force is on
the shaft. I understand that even well built boats from that era
start to fail about now, but different boats tend to fail in different
places. The Pearsons from the same era that club has deliminate and
one side of fiberglass comes free or falls off. Their rudders are
much better supported tho so they aren't failing at that point near
the top. I've seen hardwood cored rudders that swell up and split the
fiberglass. Probably the fiberglass at the largest stress point
slowly pulls free of the shaft allowing water intrusion. There's
another S&S design at the marina, a Columbia 29 mkII, that got some
interesting retrofits and looks like she's sailed a million miles,
that was converted to a transom hung rudder. If I ever have to deal
with this again, I'm thinking I'd like to do something like that.

Cheers,
-scott

On 11/18/23, Carl Damm <cfdamm@...> wrote:
Our rudder failed at the same point as Adam's. Where the bent shaft is
encapsulated in fiberglass. I think the combination of stress caused by
bending the shaft and the encapsulating causes an issue in the longterm. As
for warning signs it was already cracked and visible when we bought the
boat.
I don't know what grade of stainless Tartan used. We used 316 in our repair.
A friend of mine who owns a marine fab business did the stainless work. He
could not bring himself to encapsulate the repair, so he welded the "flags"
out of 316 on either side of the fiberglass. If you can imagine an old
school pintle and gudgeion that is nicely faired in. The now external flags
are through bolted with 316 that was then welded to the flags and ground
flush. The rudder shaft lines up perfectly straight with shoe at the
bottom. Only the tiniest miss alignment could be tolerated. Hinges must
always be in a straight line or they bind.
We never split the rudder open. The aperture was cut back to allow the new
rudder post to lay in. It was welded to the original ss bottom post that
runs down into the shoe. The top was not bent but a mitered weld which was
strengthened by having the external flags connecting to both sections at the
joint.
Basically the old Fiberglass rudder was ground down and slid into an
external ss leading edge. Then pined through and the pins welded.
It's not how I imagined doing it, but when a friend that Engineers and
builds boat components wants to help you out, you let them. In the days of
old, this type of construction was common with external bronze straps faired
into wood. I watched the disassembly of a Tayana rudder that was built this
way with external straps over fiberglass and also one on a Contessa. So
maybe it's not that radical.

Carl Damm
DAMSELv
1976 #593
Stuart Fl

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