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An occurrence I see a fair amount is hands landing on the modules when somebody leans in to look. This happens mostly (but not exclusively) from youngsters enthusiastically approaching the layout. As all that is holding the layout is Unijoiners, It is pretty easy for the layout to be knocked out of alignment, or even modules separated. I try to make sure that modules are located eight or nine inches back from the front edge of the table, so that there is a safe place for hands to land -- on the table, rather than on the modules. This should also hlp with dangling straps and similar difficulties. It's not always possible, but whatever space that you can add between the table edge and the modules helps. This obviously doesn't work for single table width, up and back layouts, but is good practice for any larger layout. Bob

Hi friends, I went back to the Energency rooms Friday 6pm and came out this evening, Sunday. TIA again. This time spent about 60 minutes with a slow and heavily slurred voice. I am so over this and still no clear answers. Much appreciation for the members who sent me messages of support. They helped keep my spirits up as I went through all the crud that a visit to the ED can provide. Sincere thanks. Now back on with the layout. I need to get this big module finished just in case the next one affects me permanently in some way.

Hi friends, it has been quite a while since I posted an update. Being unwell for some time really takes it out of you but whenever I got the feeling I have worked on the Layout plan and it is coming together nicely. Including all the elements I wanted in a logical and justifiable fashion. I can confirm that all design decisions I have taken fit within the Rule #1 Protocol. This is a very big Layout diagram so you might need to Zoom in several times to see the details. * All Branch Lines are functionally and electronically separate from the T-TRAK Main lines. I might wire in stops at the stations to activate randomly like a resort Halt might operate. * T-TRAK Mains are all PECO Concrete tie track with the last ~20mm at the Interfaces being KATO. I have all of these that I need (I think). * Branch lines are either PECO Timber tie tracks, Fleischmann cog-rail tracks, Tomix tracks and all turnouts are Tomix. I have almost all of these other than the big Tomix X-over 12147 and the mini-Y turnout 1240. Coming soon. * There are no plastic structures, all are card structures from Scalescenes.com. I have all of the online-sourced files to make all of the items I need. The only plastic (so far) will be a whole collection of KATO and TGW plastic gantries for the catenary system which will only be poles and imagination. (Well, this timber Bascule Bridge structure might be there unless I build a copy - https://www.dm-toys.de/en/product-details/MU_N-L00166.html * Branch line control is (hoped to be automatic PWM) through Arduino Nano boards, Hall effect switches, individual sound players and micro speakers embedded in tunnels and structures. There will be Arduino-controlled switch machines under the boards for all turnout operations as well as the Uncoupling tracks in the shunt areas. * There will be LED and LCD instructional screens on module edges to invite the punters to activate touch screen buttons so the train movements can begin. I have almost all of the hardware, none of the programming. * The baseboard for the super module is built as is one of the side module bases. I have a big strip (2.4m x 600mm) of 50mm XPS foam and styrene sheets to make my canals and mountains with the goal of secure transportation and simple safe transportation to shows. * Perspex sheets will keep all fingers out of the reach of the fragile trains and components. I plan on carrying a mini controller of some sort so I can change operation on the fly. Lastly, this has all been developed in XTrkCAD Layout Planner. This program is OpenSource and entirely free. I would be happy to work one-on-one over Zoom or Teams etc to help anybody get started or who needs help along the way. Download and install info: http://xtrkcad-fork.sourceforge.net/Wikka/DownloadInstall Beginner Tutorial: http://xtrkcad-fork.sourceforge.net/Wikka/BeginnerTutorial The layout files can be readily downloaded and used for personal use. No Commercial use or Storage without my written permission. Large PNG of the Layout plans: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AqoIaqoPd3H3iY85afkbI_XsUFmXkA?e=ImMW5W Latest XTrkCAD file of the layout. You will need to have installed XTrkCAD to be able to see this layout: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AqoIaqoPd3H3iY82USEyQ32DcedKiA?e=Ou5gME If there are problems Downloading these files please PM me and I can send them to you direct. This Forum has reached the Limits of Storage so I can't just upload them here. Sigh.

Putting out a call for modules for the T-TRAK Layout that will be presented at the 2022 NSE Convention/Show in Nashville in June of this year. (June 15th through the 19th) The layout sets up on Thursday, June 16th, and tears down on Saturday afternoon, June 18th. Those who would like to participate with a module are asked to request a participation form from layout@.... ONLY those who have submitted a participation form before the deadline (when all spaces are full) will be able to participate. Space is limited , so if you wish to participate, don't wait to request and submit a participation form. Registration for the convention is not required in order to participate in the layout with a module, however you are precluded from participating in any other convention activities other than the layout itself. The form is for participation in the T-TRAK Layout only. If you wish to participate in the NSE Convention, you must register separately for that at their website, although, those who participate with a module receive a registration discount from NSE.

Good Evening, Hopefully a member here can enlighten me. Ray used a value of 22000 when calculating the capacitor size in the circuit and I am wondering how he came to that figure. If anyone knows can they please share that information. Kindest Regards, Martin Watts Heading down the rabbit warren of using ESP8266 devices to drive relays to switch the BCD circuit and throw the points when not working on track detection for a T-Trak based layout.

Letter from the NRail President A January 1st Announcement Hi Folks: Happy New Year. 1973 was a very significant year in model railroading. The first N Scale modules were designed, constructed, and displayed at a public show. That show was the MRIA show — no layout, just modules displayed. The first public NTRAK layout was the NMRA convention in 1974. These were the seminal NTRAK modules, and their debut began the widespread use of modular layouts, not only in N Scale, but in other scales as well. With the definition of NTRAK standards and the founding of the NTRAK Newsletter by Jim FitzGerald the modular concept took off. Today, almost one-half century since their freshman assembly more than an estimated 7,000 NTRAK modules have been built. Over the years NTRAK has evolved with variations on the basic NTRAK module including oNeTRAK, Ncat, BendTRAK, TwinTRAK, and others. Technical advances were made in the form of wireless throttles and Digital Command Control. In 1996, Jim FitzGerald took steps to ensure the ongoing viability of the organization with the formation of the NTRAK Modular Railroading Society, Inc. (NTRAK, Inc.). A Board of Directors was appointed to oversee the organization, which continues to this day. The next major advance in N Scale modular railroading was made with the introduction of T-TRAK in 2000 by Lee Monaco-FitzGerald and Jim FitzGerald. After a slow start, the growth of T-TRAK was rapid and now has more modelers than NTRAK. Standards for T-TRAK were established by Lee and Jim, and they started building T-TRAK modules and module kits. Today, multiple manufacturers are making T-TRAK module kits. NTRAK, the organization, has continued to be the standard bearer for NTRAK and T-TRAK by maintaining the standards function, as well as providing support to NTRAK and T-TRAK clubs, publishing the newsletter, organizing layouts at major shows, maintaining the web sites and our social media presence. But NTRAK has become more — promoting N scale in all forms including home layouts and supporting N scale activities including Free-moN and giving N Scale clinics at major shows. As we have expanded our scope over the past few years, it has become evident that we are more than just NTRAK and the newsletter and our show activities have reflected that. But for many N scalers, NTRAK is a specific modular standard. With that in mind, the Board of Directors has considered a new name and approved NRail as a more appropriate name to match our goals and our ongoing evolution as an organization. Legally, our new name is NRail, Inc. What does this mean for members? NRail will continue to focus primarily on the two most popular standards, NTRAK, and T-TRAK, but we will also continue to expand and increase attention to the other aspects such as Free-moN, Clubs, and Home Layouts. And NRail will continue to expand and enhance our relationship with the various N Scale manufacturers. Already our efforts have resulted in the following: ? A new, improved web site with a members’ only section. ? Monthly ZoomTRAK meetings for members. ? Expansion of the Newsletter and its staff. ? Recognize and promote Super Clubs. ? Expand the use of social media channels. Other programs are under way and will be announced as they are ready for unveiling. Although the new website is NRail.org, it will continue to be available using the existing URLs of NTRAK.org and T-TRAK.org. We look forward to continuing the 47-year-old tradition under the new name, NRail. NRail, NTRAK, T-TRAK and ZoomTRAK, and their logos are trademarks of NRail, Inc. Permission to use for commercial purposes is required. More information is published in the January/February 2021 issue of the NRail Newsletter. Regards, John Wallis NRail, Inc. President

Hello All, It has been about three months since I last worked on the Kato T-Trak module kits and I wanted to get back to them and start to apply the Woodland Scenics Shaper Sheets and see how it went. Here is the link to the video for anyone interested, https://youtu.be/gOkH8ycchgM Thanks, Heath -- Human[c]ity Junction Human.c.ityJunction@... https://www.youtube.com/c/HumancityJunction

Dave, > Can you post a circuit diagram for the power transistor method? > 200msec pulse worked for me, too. > As I've ended up making these pretty much ad hoc, I don't have a clear schematic written down. However, there are projects on the web about how to control a TIP120 from an Arduino. An example is here: https://www.circuitbasics.com/how-to-control-dc-motor-speed-using-tip120-on-arduino What you need is to set up two circuits like this, one to push the current in either direction. I realize this is too much handwaving, however I'm having trouble posting a file with a rough schematic, so I'm going to try to describe it verbally. Essentially the circuit is a variation of how to control a single coil machine like a Kato, with a circuit for a twin coil machine. Basically you have three wires in and two out. Power normal, power route and common in, two wires to the coil out. The normal and route input go to the coil inputs. There are resistors between the inputs and ground, so that when you apply a voltage to one of the inputs, some of the current goes through the coil, back through the opposite resistor, to power the coil and some goes (wasted) through the adjacent resistor to ground. Got that? So for controlling a Kato coil with an Arduino and power transistors you need your input voltage, ground, the wires to the Kato coil, and wires from two Arduino output pins. Voltage connects through the resistor to the TIP's collector, and to on lead to the Kato coil. This is repeated for the other coil wire. The TIP emitters are connected to ground. The pins from the Arduino to the base pins on the TIPs. For the resistors, I've been using 22 ohm 5 watt units, but this is not critical, anything from about 20 to 35 ohms, and at least 1 watt should work. I hope this is clear. Bob

Hi Folks! I am looking for the safest way to actuate the above named crossover. I have programmed an Arduino to drive a shift register which in turn supplies a signal to an H bridge motor driver to actuate the crossover. This works fine on the bench but fails to work as desired when installed in a real life application. I am going on the assumption that the crossover draws more current than I am now providing. My question is "How much power (Watts) does the crossover need to properly actuate?" I have read that Kato recommends 12 to 14 volts at 1.5 amps. I cannot verify this but if this is correct then the maximum recommended wattage would be 21 Watts. I am currently using a 12 volt supply to a buck booster, raising the voltage to 16 volts, charging a 2200 ufd capacitor and applying that to the H bridge. On the bench this works fine, but in application it fails to drive the crossover correctly. Can I safely increase the booster applied voltage to say 20 volts to increase the power output to H bridge without destroying the Kato crossover? Anyone else faced this issue? What was your solution? Thanks. Brian

Hello All, I hope this is ok to post here. I could not find any reviews online about the Kato T-trak Modules Made by Woodland Scenics, so I bought two of them and put them together. Here is my review of them. https://youtu.be/ryfs2OaSp6s Does anyone have any experience with these module, especially as far as durability at train show setups? What are your thoughts on these? Thanks, Heath -- Human[c]ity Junction Human.c.ityJunction@... https://www.youtube.com/c/HumancityJunction

Hello, Is the inside white rail the common rail, so I should gap the blue rail, or is it the other way around. Unless I can find out differently, I am planning to make the white/inside rail the common rail on all my modules and put insulated joiners on the outside rails. Thanks, Heath -- Human[c]ity Junction Human.c.ityJunction@... https://www.youtube.com/c/HumancityJunction

Hello, How do you store and transport your modules? Are they loose? Do you have them on shelves? Do you have an enclosure of sorts for them? Thanks, Heath -- Human[c]ity Junction Human.c.ityJunction@... https://www.youtube.com/c/HumancityJunction

Hi Folks! With all this spare time I have because of our current corona virus situation, I started thinking about our modules and their construction. A few questions came to mind that I haven't seen addressed anywhere else so I thought I would bring them up here. First, unless I am the only individual on the planet with extremely poor coordination and bad luck, most of us find it at least tedious aligning the modules to put them together at a show. It seems the tracks are always a teensy bit off and require a little gentle persuasion to connect. This has been especially true for our club with our mountain modules since we are connecting tracks on two different levels. My first question is "How are you fastening your tracks to your modules to help compensate for poor alignment of the tracks?" We have been using a crossover track to align the ends of the modules and fastening the tracks with the Trainsaida track screws. Unfortunately, these screws start to pull through the Kato tracks after time and do not keep the track where we would like it. Anyone else having issues with this? After more thinking I was wondering EXACTLY what did Kato have in mind when they originally designed their unitack? The studs cast into the track from underneath do not have holes that go all the way through the track, so was this supposed to be used to attach the tracks from below, instead of from above as many of us have been doing? Did Kato have some other reason for casting the studs on the track at all? Can we think outside the box and come up with a different way of fastening the track rather than drilling out those studs and screwing the track down from the top? Anyone have a method of affixing the tracks that would allow for more flexibility of the ends to connect them between modules? Help me out folks. As a group we can come up with some better ideas. Thanks! Brian

Hi Folks! Here is my current status on fastening Unitrack to a t-trak module. I took a sample piece of Unitrack to see if the following method is viable. First, I drilled out the holes in the track all the way through with a tap drill. Next, I placed the track in position on the test surface of 1/4 inch plywood and drilled the two holes to mount the track. Third, I tapped the Unitrack holes with a 2-56 thread tap. Then, I enlarged the mounting holes in the plywood with a 0.110 inch drill to provide my desired "wiggle" room for the track. Finally, I used nylon screws that were over length for mounting the track to the plywood. I screwed them down but left them loose so the track could be easily moved. This provides about 1/32 inch overall from side to side with the added benefit, for me, that it also allows some vertical movement. This is helpful to me because of our mountain division which gives us the third dimension to deal with when connecting modules. After affixing the track to the test plywood, the nylon screws that stick up through the Unitrack can be nipped off with rail nippers. Depending on the color of your screws, the exposed portion could be painted or colored with a Sharpie to blend it in with the track. I will have to see how this works out over time. If the screws have a tendency to fall out I may consider hot gluing them in the track to prevent them from further loosening and falling out. My preference for screws is that I feel a mechanical connection is sturdier than the gluing method. Only a personal preference, I know. I also believe the mechanical connection will withstand the stress placed on the module and track when they are separated. Again, only my personal beliefs. YMMV Brian

Are there any T-Trakers in the Calgary AB area? I have booked a 12' by 5' area for my Scale T-Trak layout. John Delta BC

For me, personally, the best thing about Christmas being over is that my Seasonal persona of Santa can go back into the wardrobe and I can again get back to making modules. YAY! While I really do enjoy the role, and the travel, the work that I have to put in to being a Professional Santa, to the exclusion of everything else - family, hobbies, friendships - is just so exhausting that I get to the end of the Season and then get past the New Year and then I can physically and mentally relax. My mind can wander to better things like... like... T-TRAK! What triggered this realisation that it is module-making time again was a wander down a nearby shopping mall and a quick glimpse into a second-hand dealer's shopfront. I saw this and others like it and a 50% off sale sticker on them. Yay! Then the thought came of just what module could use this static loco? A museum theme? A Mainline station with this as a car park attraction? Use it as a line-filler for a Mainline Depot? Children's Playground? How would you use a static model like this on a new module?

Best wishes and Happy Holiday to everyone.

To celebrate National Model RR Month we will be at the Taylors Branch of the Greenville Co. Library in Taylors, SC on 11/22 and 11/23. The Piedmont 'N' Southern Modular RR Club will have its T-TRAK layout. The NMRA Palmetto Division, Model Trains Station and the Hub City RR Museum will have displays and information about their organizations. 1:30 50 5:00 on Friday and 9:30 to 4:30 on Saturday.

Hi everyone. Hope to see some new posts here soon.

The short answer is no. 开云体育 is overwhelmed and it may take several weeks to migrate the list from Yahoo to Groups. I have paid the upgrade/migration fee, requested the transfer and am waiting for further communication from 开云体育.