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wrote: even practicing Manual", glass should 1/2" to

Hi Charles, Oh I agree, waves can really effect how you tack. The trick is timing them so they give you a boost rather than a block. Wayne

Hi Chris, Ouch! I don't know what experience you have with fiberglass, but cloth and even roving are very tough to work with when wet with resin. I suggest practicing a little before your first

Thanks for your comments. I will definitely think about them next time I'm out. Another thing just occured to me, which might explain the difference between tacking one way and the other. I believe

Hi Charles, True the mast sets up some turbulence on Port Tack. I don't think this is serious enough to make tacking (especially in a good breeze) any different from one to the other. [I'd love to see

The cracks in the cockpit do go all the way through. One goes down teh center. I believe they got there from ice freezing in there. The one in the hull is under the cargo compartment in the cockpit.

--- andyatwater2000 <andyatwater@...> wrote: I had a '91 , in fact it was on of the last batch built, dealrs screamed that they didn't get enough boats and they went and stripped the factory

I have been practicing tacking, and I'm a little stumped. When I go from a starboard tack (the "good" tack) to a port tack, I can make a pretty smooth tack. I'm working on a roll tack. I'd say I have

I'll bet appliance paint would work. It's designed to touch up or repaint kitchen appliances. It looks really shiny, although the white might be too white to match well. Not sure if it would stick

Adding one thing to Wayne's digest on levels of work and expense, a can of quality white spray paint will do a fine job of coming close to matching original gel and your "spot" will be less spotty.

Hi John, I don't know about Lasers. You might try some of the Laser web sites, ie: http://www.drlaser.org/core.html They have always struck me a well built, but I'm sure there have been variations if

Hi Chris, Hmmmmm...., A bit unorthodox, but it's one way to drain a hull. 8^) If these cracks in the cockpit are splits that go clean through - that is the glass mat and roving has been broken

Hello. I just found this group lastnight researching what to do with the cracks I have in my sunfish. It had been sitting out side, in what I thougth was a covered area since the begining of this past

I am seeking information on a boat called the amflite 14. The sticker on the hull reads "AMF AMFLITE". The hull and sail is the exact size of the sunfish. The cockpit has hiking rails vs straps. Can

Thanks Wayne. Do you, or anyone else, know if the same history applies to the Laser? I'm finding more of them in my area than sunfish. I did a search on this forum & appreciated Gails comments on the

Hi John, Here's a chronology put together by Corpus Christi Sailing Center ( Sunfish Dealer ) http://www.constant.com/sailing/page16.html No overlap that I know of, but (correct me if I've got this

All, Here's a source for some old (and new) Sunfish Parts http://www.constant.com/sailing/index.html Old Parts Page http://www.constant.com/sailing/page21.html Wayne

I've read the info on identifying the date of a specific hull from the serial numbers, but is there anything on the exact dates that alcort, Pearson, Sunfish laser Inc, and Vanguard produced their

Simply, avoid it like the plague. If it's in great shape, it's been in a garage or sat on a rack. ~~~/)~~~~/)~~~/)~~~~~/)~~~~~~/)~~ Gail ~~~/)~~~~/)~~~/)~~~~~/)~~~~~~/)~~

I am looking at a Pearson-built Sunfish (1991), and have heard some dire warnings to 'avoid them like the plague'. After talking to several dealers, they seem to agree that if the boat is not too