开云体育

Hi All,

Since the subject of Dollys has come up I would like to share a bit of
advice.

I do not recommend using any sort of dolly that has a bracket that fits up
into the daggerboard slot. My experience with both a commercial design and a
home-made one is that they have a very high potential for damaging the
inside walls of the daggerboard trunk and causing severe leaks.


Wayne

Here's another interesting Dolly

Hi Jeff,

Might this be the plan you are looking for?


Wayne





From the Sunfish Message Board at

Posted by Jimbo on September 25, 2002


Sunfish Dolly Parts List (Item number refers to Home Depot)
(Quantity, Description, Item #, Amount per each, Total)

2 Wheels 037049927760 17.94 35.88
3 1 " x 10' PVC Pipe 759388100641 03.49 10.47
1 5/8" x 3' threaded rod 030699173709 04.50 04.50
4 1 " PVC ELL 039923140821 00.66 02.64
2 1 " PVC TEE 039923145864 01.13 02.26
4 5/8" nuts
4 5/8" washers 1" outer diameter
1 Tube of Locktite Thread lock
1 PVC Cement
The nuts, washers, locktite and PVC cement I do not have item numbers for
although I did purchase everything at the Home Depot.
Cut PVC pipe as follows:
1 21 " for axle
1 21 " for handle
2 94" for rails
2 8" for risers out of axle

Fabricate axle as follows.
1) Screw one of the 5/8" nuts 5 inches onto the end of the threaded rod and
secure with a drop of locktite.
2) On the short side of the rod where you just placed the nut put one of the
washers, then one of the wheels, then another washer and another nut secured
with locktite.
3) Fabricate the PVC part of axle by attaching a PVC TEE piece to each end
of a
21 " piece of pipe. Make sure that the TEE pieces are facing in the same
direction.
4) Cement an 8" piece of the PVC pipe out of the top of each TEE piece on
the axle.
5) Cement an ELL piece of the PVC onto the top of each 8" piece. Make sure
these ELL pieces face in the same direction.
6) Screw the other 5/8" nut 5 inches onto the other end of the threaded rod
and secure with a drop of locktite.
7) Slide the PVC axle assembly onto the threaded rod.
8) Now slide a washer, the other wheel, another washer and the last 5/8" nut
and secure with a drop of locktite.
9) Fabricate the handle of the dolly by cementing an ELL piece to each end
of the other 21 " piece of PVC pipe. Make sure the ELL pieces face the same
way.
10) Connect the handle to the axle assembly with the 94" pieces of PVC pipe.

Hey Gang,

Somewhere I saw a plan to build a sunfish dolly out of wheelbarrow
tires and PVC pipe, I'll be darned if I can locate it again. Anybody
seen this anywhere?

Thanks
Jeff
terra firma is for farmers

Hey Gang,

Somewhere I saw a plan to build a sunfish dolly out of wheelbarrow
tires and PVC pipe, I'll be darned if I can locate it again. Anybody
seen this anywhere?

Thanks
Jeff
terra firma is for farmers

Enter your vote today! A new poll has been created for the
sunfish_sailor group:

What Era is your Fish?
(check all that apply)

o 1950's
o 1960's
o 1970's
o 1980's
o 1990's
o 2000's


To vote, please visit the following web page:



Note: Please do not reply to this message. Poll votes are
not collected via email. To vote, you must go to the Yahoo! Groups
web site listed above.

Thanks!

1968 Alcort Sunfish - $300.00

I have classic 68 sunfish I would like to sell.
No trailer, will deliver within 100 miles or so(NC).
Hull in very good condition, no repairs.
Needs a little time and love.
Sail needs to be replaced.
Needs rudder and daggerboard.
[see attachment] Can send more Pics.

A. Aguilar, Chapel Hill, NC
PH1: 919.672.4511
PH2: 919.928.0355
EMAIL: aaguilar@...

Hello,

I have just received a Sunfish brochure dating back to 1957 when Alcort was
in its infancy.

A scan of this flyer has been posted in the PHOTOS section for all to see.

I will post more historical pictures and information as I come across them.


Wayne

Jeff,

--- In sunfish_sailor@y..., "Wayne Carney" <wcarney@f...> wrote:

-----Original Message-----
From: cngrsmn [mailto:cngrsmn@y...]
Subject: [sunfish_sailor] support

I was wondering of anybody had any objection to stiffening up the
bottom of an old sunfish that has a flimsy bottom with a light
stringer system. Say maybe some 1x2 puttied into place with a

layer

of mat over maybe biax or something to hold the boards in place.

Whew, if you are up to the task of opening up the hull in order to

keep an

old boat going, I say why not. Who's to say what you can and can't

do to

continue enjoying your boat.

If you haven't done this before you'll probably want to consult
windlinesails.com "how to" on foam block replacement for

instructions on how

to access the inner hull.

There are commercially made ribs of glass or Kevlar, but I don't

know a

source. I think home-made ones should work just fine. 1X2" would be

as hefty

as a ribs found in small motor boats. IMHO, you could go with

something a

bit smaller, for instance, you can make ribs out of glass mat laid

over,

say, 1/2" PVC pipe -or- half diameter PVC pipe -or- light weight

cardboard

tube, such as the core of a roll of wrapping paper. The fiberglass

lay-up

will provide the strength. A light weave "roving" material would

make a

really strong rib.

Race legal?

Probably Not.

Fun legal - definitely!


Wayne

That's an interesting reply there Wayne. But I was reallying looking
for a response with information, possibly the name of someone who
works as a judge on these things during a regatta. By the way, the
idea about the pvc wouldn't work, the resin, while appearing to bond
to the pvc, would break away after very little stress on
compression. I actually went out to the shop and fired up the
autoclave and made a couple of darts out of carbon fiber to keep the
weight down and glued them in. After repairing the bottom of the
hull the boat was filled with 2 part pour-foam to replace the
flotation foam. The inside of the dart/stringer gets foam to help
stiffen, should last a while, of course the banging of the wave
action will collapse any foam eventually.

thanks,
jeff

--- In sunfish_sailor@y..., "Wayne Carney" <wcarney@f...> wrote:

-----Original Message-----
From: cngrsmn [mailto:cngrsmn@y...]
Subject: [sunfish_sailor] support

I was wondering of anybody had any objection to stiffening up the
bottom of an old sunfish that has a flimsy bottom with a light
stringer system. Say maybe some 1x2 puttied into place with a

layer

of mat over maybe biax or something to hold the boards in place.

Whew, if you are up to the task of opening up the hull in order to

keep an

old boat going, I say why not. Who's to say what you can and can't

do to

continue enjoying your boat.

If you haven't done this before you'll probably want to consult
windlinesails.com "how to" on foam block replacement for

instructions on how

to access the inner hull.

There are commercially made ribs of glass or Kevlar, but I don't

know a

source. I think home-made ones should work just fine. 1X2" would be

as hefty

as a ribs found in small motor boats. IMHO, you could go with

something a

bit smaller, for instance, you can make ribs out of glass mat laid

over,

say, 1/2" PVC pipe -or- half diameter PVC pipe -or- light weight

cardboard

tube, such as the core of a roll of wrapping paper. The fiberglass

lay-up

will provide the strength. A light weave "roving" material would

make a

really strong rib.

Race legal?

Probably Not.

Fun legal - definitely!


Wayne

That's an interesting reply there Wayne. But I was reallying looking
for a response with information, possibly the name of someone who
works as a judge on these things during a regatta. By the way, the
idea about the pvc wouldn't work, the resin, while appearing to bond
to the pvc, would break away after very little stress on
compression. I actually went out to the shop and fired up the
autoclave and made a couple of darts out of carbon fiber to keep the
weight down and glued them in. After repairing the bottom of the
hull the boat was filled with 2 part pour-foam to replace the
flotation foam. The inside of the dart/stringer gets foam to help
stiffen, should last a while, of course the banging of the wave
action will collapse any foam eventually.

thanks,
jeff

Chris,

I don't know specifically where you might race in your area, perhaps one of
this groups Florida members can give you some specifics.

Most marinas have some sort of sailing club that holds events where you can
compete under Portsmouth handicap. If you would like to find Sunfish Class
events, I recommend that you take a look at this web site.


If you think you are going to get serious about competition then I encourage
you to join the Sunfish Class Association. Even if you sail recreationally
it is a great source of information and guidance.

If you sign up on the Sunfish List Server you will become linked into the
latest information on Sunfish Class racing up and down the East Coast and
sometimes elsewhere.



And if you are not aware of it, here's the site for Vanguard - manufacturer
of the Sunfish.



Good sailing,

Wayne

Hello,

I am thinking of purchasing a Sunfish to start racing. I live in the
Tampa Bay Area and am wondering where in the area races SunFish? I
believe the Clearwater Sailing Center races under the Portsmouth
System. Are there any Sunfish racing classes in the area? Any
information would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Chris

Anybody have any new/used mast/booms laying they want to get rid of?

thanks
congressman

I was wondering of anybody had any objection to stiffening up the
bottom of an old sunfish that has a flimsy bottom with a light
stringer system. Say maybe some 1x2 puttied into place with a layer
of mat over maybe biax or something to hold the boards in place.
Race legal? Who cares she's only 10.

Thanks
congressman

Sounds like a project. I think it was Wayne with the
suggestion of looking into windline. There are lots
of degrees of damage to fiberglass/gelcoat that take
lots of degrees of repair. For right now I'd do the
vacuum cleaner pressure test and see what leaks repair
that the right way with resin/glass products and keep
her dry when she's out of the water to prevent any
more water damage. Inspection ports/openings are
definitely a help although I ended up with a 14 x24
opening in the top of a 74 fish.
advice is free, sometimes it's worthless
Good luck ,
Congressman
--- fourbluedevils <ccross@...> wrote:

Hi, new sailor and sunfish owner here. I was hoping
someone could
provide me with guidance on sealing my hull. In
cleaning the
1983-era sunfish I recently acquired, I noticed lots
of spider
cracks on the topside and bottomside. Also a lot of
cracking under
the molding where the top and bottom join. The hull
has been
sitting outside and uncovered for a long time.
While
cleaning/polishing the bottomside I could actually
hear the gelcoat
(or what is left of it) cracking. How bad is this
and how should I
approach it? I have not actually placed the hull in
the water yet as
I want to keep it dry until I make repairs. I am not
overly concerned
at this point with cosmetics. Can I apply an epoxy
sealer followed by
a paint? I am limited in time and have to work on
this
outdoors without shelter. I appreciate any tips you
could provide me.
Thanks.

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs

Hi Whitney,

You have stumbled across an experiment.

I am toying with the idea of creating a list that would allow members
in similar locations to find one another.

Anyone who would like to add themselves to the list may do so. Even
if I change the format I will try and preserve any entries.

For those who are interested, the list is in the database section of
the group page.


Wayne

Hi,

I just noticed that this group has a list for posting our favorite
sailing lake. I added my name I hope this is OK. Anyone else from my
part of the country out there?

Whit

Hello New Sunfish Sailor,

You wrote...,

I noticed lots of spider cracks on the topside and bottomside.
I could actually hear the gelcoat(or what is left of it) cracking.
How bad is this and how should I approach it?

It's hard to judge from your message the seriousness of the cracking. The
best thing I can suggest is to post photos of the problem area. Someone has
probably had the same experience and can give you some specific advice.

As far as I know, hairline cracks from weathering are probably best left
alone. On the other hand, if the gelcoat (the color layer of your boat)
starts to chip out exposing the greenish or yellowish looking resin and
glass fibers that make up the structural part of the hull and deck, then you
probably need to take action to fill the exposed spots. West Marine has a
brief help file for dealing with gelcoat repairs here:


report

I have seen some other gelcoat repair pages on the web and if I find them
again I will forward the address to you.


You can apply an epoxy primer/filler and repaint. It's a bit costly and
repainting outdoors isn't the ideal situation, but you wouldn't be the first
person to do it either. Most marine epoxy primers and paints take at least
24 hours to cure. With prep and sanding between coats you could conceivably
accomplish the job in four or five days, maybe a bit less, but I don't
advocate rushing it.

Nearly every older Sunfish I have seen has cracks in the gelcoat at the
underside of the hull/deck seam. These are usually cosmetic, but if the hull
is leaking at that point you will want to find and repair the leak(s). There
are some tips on how to go about that at the following web sites.






Good Luck,

Wayne