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Re: Winter storage of sunfish in garage
Gail M. Turluck
Yeah, if you try to put the lag bolt in vertically you could be asking for a
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problem. Put that off season ratchet block to work and you won't have a problem at all. I wouldn't bother with all the work of building a frame or anything. If you really want to part with money, there's the Harken Hoister system that will do what you want. (Peter loves it when I give him a plug!) www.harken.com But, even $1 pulleys from the hardware store, strategically placed, will do the job. The drill the hole option with a piece of rope will do, too. I can lift half a Sunfish with little trouble. Hoisting it is less trouble. Hope this helps. Hope you can heat the space. (Recommend against painting unless you absolutely must. Better to polish the hull if it can be salvaged, even with a couple imperfect spots. Paint scratches relatively quickly and then has to be stripped (hard to do off fiberglass) and redone ... I've spent too much time stripping paint off painted boats, so I know!) Good luck! Gail ~~~/)~~~~/)~~~/)~~~~~/)~~~~~~/)~~ Gail M. Turluck Sunfish 24186 ISCA Masters Coordinator USSCA Secretary USSCA Masters Coordinator ~~~/)~~~~/)~~~/)~~~~~/)~~~~~~/)~~ -----Original Message-----
From: rr optin [mailto:optin@...] Sent: Friday, November 21, 2003 2:56 PM To: sunfish_sailor@... Subject: Re: [sunfish_sailor] Winter storage of sunfish in garage How about just drill holes in the joists where you need them, pass a line (old sheet, etc) through them and under boat, do everything with line. I like simple solutions, no wood to cut, nail/screw, buying hardware - yuk. If you have extra blocks lying around, use them to create a purchase 2,4,6 to 1, be innovative and cheap. Its all about simple and cheap. ----- Original Message ----- From: nac20032002 To: sunfish_sailor@... Sent: Friday, November 21, 2003 2:07 PM Subject: [sunfish_sailor] Winter storage of sunfish in garage Apologies to all if this is an old one. I was given an aged sunfish and I'd like to move it indoors over the winter while I restore it. I'd like to be able to hoist it above my carspace in the garage, and lower as required. I only have access to the underside of the joists. I read somewhere that lag bolt style eyebolts aren't safe as the wood thread cannot be relied on. Does anyone have any experience with this kind of project? I was thinking of a frame built from 2x4s and shaped appropriately where the cross sections meet the deck. Thanks for your help Neil, LI NY Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ADVERTISEMENT If you do not wish to belong to Sunfish_sailor, you may unsubscribe by sending an email to: sunfish_sailor-unsubscribe@... Please do not send unsubscribe requests directly to the group. USEFUL ADDRESSES Post message: sunfish_sailor@... Subscribe: sunfish_sailor-subscribe@... Unsubscribe: sunfish_sailor-unsubscribe@... URL to egroups page: Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ADVERTISEMENT If you do not wish to belong to Sunfish_sailor, you may unsubscribe by sending an email to: sunfish_sailor-unsubscribe@... Please do not send unsubscribe requests directly to the group. USEFUL ADDRESSES Post message: sunfish_sailor@... Subscribe: sunfish_sailor-subscribe@... Unsubscribe: sunfish_sailor-unsubscribe@... URL to egroups page: Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. |
Re: Project boat
Gail M. Turluck
It's a Super Sunfish. Parts are hard to come by.
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You can put a standard rig in it if you like. All Sunfish parts will fit it. Super Sunfish parts were all additions to a standard Sunfish (traveler bar, high aspect ratio rig and sail, etc.). Someone will likely chime in on how to handle the rest of the "Super" parts. I've not seen one sailed but I have seen pictures. Try the Sunfish Class email list for more help too. Sincerely, Gail ~~~/)~~~~/)~~~/)~~~~~/)~~~~~~/)~~ Gail M. Turluck Sunfish 24186 ISCA Masters Coordinator USSCA Secretary USSCA Masters Coordinator ICSA Afterguard Events Chair ~~~/)~~~~/)~~~/)~~~~~/)~~~~~~/)~~ -----Original Message-----
From: blfat2fish [mailto:blfat2fish@...] Sent: Friday, November 21, 2003 2:19 PM To: sunfish_sailor@... Subject: [sunfish_sailor] Project boat I recently "acquired" a sunfish which I plan on restoring over the winter. I have been doing some searching trying to locate parts and such, but am having a problem identifying the model of this boat. All of the boats I encounter on the web have a mast, upper boom and lower boom, whereas the boat I have has a two piece mast and a one piece boom (much like a Laser). Can someone point me in the right direction? I I would like to know what type of sunfish this is, and some recommendations on where to go for parts. Thanks! Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ADVERTISEMENT If you do not wish to belong to Sunfish_sailor, you may unsubscribe by sending an email to: sunfish_sailor-unsubscribe@... Please do not send unsubscribe requests directly to the group. USEFUL ADDRESSES Post message: sunfish_sailor@... Subscribe: sunfish_sailor-subscribe@... Unsubscribe: sunfish_sailor-unsubscribe@... URL to egroups page: Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. |
Re: Winter storage of sunfish in garage
rr optin
How about just drill holes in the joists where you need them, pass a line (old sheet, etc) through them and under boat, do everything with line. I like simple solutions, no wood to cut, nail/screw, buying hardware - yuk. If you have extra blocks lying around, use them to create a purchase 2,4,6 to 1, be innovative and cheap. Its all about simple and cheap.
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----- Original Message -----
From: nac20032002 To: sunfish_sailor@... Sent: Friday, November 21, 2003 2:07 PM Subject: [sunfish_sailor] Winter storage of sunfish in garage Apologies to all if this is an old one. I was given an aged sunfish and I'd like to move it indoors over the winter while I restore it. I'd like to be able to hoist it above my carspace in the garage, and lower as required. I only have access to the underside of the joists. I read somewhere that lag bolt style eyebolts aren't safe as the wood thread cannot be relied on. Does anyone have any experience with this kind of project? I was thinking of a frame built from 2x4s and shaped appropriately where the cross sections meet the deck. Thanks for your help Neil, LI NY Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ADVERTISEMENT If you do not wish to belong to Sunfish_sailor, you may unsubscribe by sending an email to: sunfish_sailor-unsubscribe@... Please do not send unsubscribe requests directly to the group. USEFUL ADDRESSES Post message: sunfish_sailor@... Subscribe: sunfish_sailor-subscribe@... Unsubscribe: sunfish_sailor-unsubscribe@... URL to egroups page: Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. |
Project boat
I recently "acquired" a sunfish which I plan on restoring over the
winter. I have been doing some searching trying to locate parts and such, but am having a problem identifying the model of this boat. All of the boats I encounter on the web have a mast, upper boom and lower boom, whereas the boat I have has a two piece mast and a one piece boom (much like a Laser). Can someone point me in the right direction? I I would like to know what type of sunfish this is, and some recommendations on where to go for parts. Thanks! |
Winter storage of sunfish in garage
nac20032002
Apologies to all if this is an old one.
I was given an aged sunfish and I'd like to move it indoors over the winter while I restore it. I'd like to be able to hoist it above my carspace in the garage, and lower as required. I only have access to the underside of the joists. I read somewhere that lag bolt style eyebolts aren't safe as the wood thread cannot be relied on. Does anyone have any experience with this kind of project? I was thinking of a frame built from 2x4s and shaped appropriately where the cross sections meet the deck. Thanks for your help Neil, LI NY |
Re: Sunfish sails
Thanks Gail,
We can always count on you to chime in with the details. John From: "Gail M. Turluck" <turluck@...>_________________________________________________________________ Frustrated with dial-up? Get high-speed for as low as $26.95. (Prices may vary by service area.) |
Re: Sunfish sails
Gail M. Turluck
Occasionally there is a regatta for boats with "standard" rigs, but mostly
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I've seen only 1-5 boats turn out for that group. By far the majority of regattas have everybody together in one big happy family. People getting started kinda have to "pay their dues" as they learn to handle the boat, learn more on rigging, learn how to adapt to conditions for their body size, and then learn about gear and how to upgrade. Compare racing a Sunfish to any other Class and I guarantee we are the least expensive and comparable with ease to any other form of recreational sport that's out there! When we instituted the racing sail it was done because the "standard" sails were made so irregularly that something had to be done to even the field. It used to be that the hotshots would go into their dealer when a supply of sails came in, lay them all out, and buy the one with the best shape and largest size. THIS WAS COMPLETELY UNFAIR! As time passed it was discerned that certain sailmakers sails stretched to better shapes, too, and they also became coveted. Age didn't seem to matter as much. In 1989 the racing sail was implemented. Yes, it caused consternation because of the cost, but the sailmaker had spent a lot of time cutting sails, testing them, sending out sails for further testing, and making sure it was what the Class wanted. Now about the only difference is an old sail is old and does lose some power; a new sail is new and provides the best power available. The standard sails are still made the same old way they were. They are smaller. They will stretch to odd shapes, even panel by panel. They are colorful. They are far less expensive. For people of smaller stature (140 lb. and under) a standard sail might be the way to go. You still really should spend a few extra bucks and get a window installed. When it's going to blow over 25 steady for a whole day, even I (no lightweight) will break out my "chicken" sail just to reduce the power and load for the whole day (maybe once every 2-3 years ... I have lots of sails on poles these days). But, by far, the majority of people who are going to race at all should go with the Racing Sail. With a Jens rig you can depower very effectively. If you have played any other sports, you will discover an outlay of $325-350 for gear once every 3-5 years (some stretch it longer, depends on how much they sail it) really isn't that much when spread over the time it's used. It just all comes at once. Runners will spend WAY more than that in 3-5 years just on shoes! Hope this helps. Sincerely, Gail ~~~/)~~~~/)~~~/)~~~~~/)~~~~~~/)~~ Gail M. Turluck Sunfish 24186 ISCA Masters Coordinator USSCA Secretary USSCA Masters Coordinator ~~~/)~~~~/)~~~/)~~~~~/)~~~~~~/)~~ -----Original Message-----
From: John C [mailto:jkcjohn@...] Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2003 2:27 PM To: sunfish_sailor@... Subject: [sunfish_sailor] Sunfish sails I was just wondering... A standard Sunfish sail is "class legal" to race with. So if you buy a "race sail" with more area and better performance, do you not race in the same class as the guys with regular sails? Is the race sail for 'A' fleet or what? I'm sail shopping and may race in the future, just wondering. John Yahoo! Groups Sponsor If you do not wish to belong to Sunfish_sailor, you may unsubscribe by sending an email to: sunfish_sailor-unsubscribe@... Please do not send unsubscribe requests directly to the group. USEFUL ADDRESSES Post message: sunfish_sailor@... Subscribe: sunfish_sailor-subscribe@... Unsubscribe: sunfish_sailor-unsubscribe@... URL to egroups page: Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. |
Sunfish sails
I was just wondering...
A standard Sunfish sail is "class legal" to race with. So if you buy a "race sail" with more area and better performance, do you not race in the same class as the guys with regular sails? Is the race sail for 'A' fleet or what? I'm sail shopping and may race in the future, just wondering. John |
Re: first sail
Cornelius Brightgarden
Greetings John,
You probably want to visit the sunfish class website at for lots of information about sunfish. Getting the Sunfish Bible is a good second thing to do, it is a encyclopedia of everything Sunfish, new edition as of 2002, I believe. One thing to understand is what year your boat is built because equipment changed a couple of times over the Sunfish's lifetime. To answer some of your questions specifically: Brass ring (gooseneck) rising - briefly, you want to use your halyard as a vang. Bring the halyard down through the bullet, tie off at deck cleat as usual but continue the halyard forward over the gooseneck, through the bullet and tie off again at the cleat - you will have two tie-offs at the cleat. Diagrams on sunfishclass.org, look for the tips and tricks page. You may want to make your gooseneck more adjustable (buy a couple of parts listed on sunfishclass page) so you are able to quickly move the boom fore and aft depending on wind strength. The halyard wants to be connected above the ninth sail tie on the gaff to be in what racers consider the best position. With the halyard tied there and with boom vang on the boom is very low to the deck compared to pleasure sailing - makes it more tricky to get under the boom, you should know. Sheeting in - you have to let the sunfish sail breath more than other boats, you can strangle or stall it very easily and remember the boat has asymmentric performance because fo the lateen rig - you effectively have more sail area on starboard tack, different entry and exit angles of wind. Overall, you can't point as high as other boats... The boom will be outside the boat even when sheeted hardest. From info off the sunfishclass website, mast needs to be 10' 1/4" +/- 1/4" including base cap (not top cap)... Hope this helps - have fun and ask more questions as needed(!)... --- In sunfish_sailor@..., "John Campbell" <jkcjohn@h...> wrote: Hi gang!admit that the performance was a little of a let-down, but I think thereis room for improvement. The PO was not much of a sailor and surely didnot have things tuned properly.breeze and warm air and water temperatures made for some fine sailingconditions. My 9 year old son and I put the boat in the water at the ramp and hisfirst comment was "dad, it's full of water". I quickly discovered thatthe self bailer had become a 'self swamper' without the floating ball thereto seal off the water from filling the cockpit. We sailed awhile with thecockpit half full, knowing that this was certainly not ideal. There weresome decend puffs healing us pretty well from time to time, dispite our240 + water ballast. There was a definite bow wave ahead of the boatwhenever we got going good, so I feel that we never skimmed the surfaceproperly. My son took the tiller for the first time and we flipped just a fewmoments later. It was actually good for him to experience a capsize sincethat has always been his biggest fear on the Hobie. I was able to right theboat in moments and off we went. We took a break at the swimming beachafter sailing a few decent runs across the lake and I fashioned a screw-in plug out of a piece of drift wood I found by the beach. This actuallysealed quite well and improved the performance a bit, but we still neverreally seemed to skim the surface like I think the sunfish should, andlike I recalled doing several years ago with a high school chum. Breakingdown was a real snap compared to a Hobie. I was loaded up and ready to rollbefore I finished my cold brewski! I liked that for sure. We plan to takeit out again next weekend.the mast. I figure it to be about 4 feet off of the deck, but I didn'tmeasure. Where should the mainsheet normally be connected on the upper spar togive me the best sail angle for recreational sailing?mainsheet to flatten the sail out pretty well as speed increases and the boataccelerates immediately. On the sunfish, this seemed to slow the boat down.Comments? to sheet in under load. My son would have a real hard time sailing thisboat alone the way we were saling her. Am I trying to hard to flatten thesail and point to close to the wind?straightest edge forward and the tapered edge to the stern, or the other way?more neutral helm. Is this typical?consistancy of a bed sheet. I know that I need to replace it if I want decentperformance, so a good recreational sail is in my future.yet, but can anyone tell me what length of a standard Sunfish mast is? Imay be using the wrong one.it's close to the leeward edge of the transom, or am I sheeting in too tight?original type cable wire, or should I upgrade to the rope type with a travellingblock like I've seen they use on later boats? |
Re: bridle / mainsheet
Great advice Malcolm. Thanks.
John From: "Malcolm Dickinson" <malcolm@...><snip> _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8: Get 6 months for $9.95/month. |
Re: Telltail on Boom ?
Gail M. Turluck
Coathanger is the way to go. Behind the gaff air flow is definitely
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disturbed ... ~~~/)~~~~/)~~~/)~~~~~/)~~~~~~/)~~ Gail M. Turluck Sunfish 24186 ~~~/)~~~~/)~~~/)~~~~~/)~~~~~~/)~~ -----Original Message-----
From: Shorty [mailto:shorty@...] Was out sailing today, I have a ribbon tied to the boom about 18" aft from the gooseneck. Using it as a telltale instead of doing the coathanger-off-the-yard doo-hickey thing. Sure is in a convenient place to look at, but was wondering if the airflow over the sail is distorting it's direction -- what do you guys think? |
Re: bridle / mainsheet
Malcolm Dickinson
I need to replace my bridle wire on my '76. I notice thatJohn, If you are sailing recreationally only, just use a piece of line about the same length as your old bridle. There is no need for a block - just tie the end of the mainsheet around the bridle using a bowline knot. If you think the boat may ever be raced, then buy a new wire bridle from a Sunfish dealer. You will notice that the factory no longer puts a loop in the middle of the bridle. This is because lots of experimentation found that it's faster without the loop. The absence of the loop does not appear to have any bad effect on pointing ability. Putting a block on the wire traveler is legal, but unnecessary. Most racing sailors simply tie the end of the sheet around the bridle using a bowline knot, tied loose enough that the sheet slides freely. has anyone ever used a block with the three loop bridleIt would work - but there would be two big disadvantages. Have a look at how much mainsheet stretches between the bridle and the boom when you are on a run (about 15 feet, I think). 1. You would have to buy another mainsheet that is 15 feet longer than the one you have now. That's a lot of rope coiling up in the cockpit when you're closehauled... 2. When going from a run to closehauled, it's an extra 15 feet of line that must be sheeted in, for a total of almost 40 feet! The better solution is to get your son a ratchet block that really grips the rope well, and a pair of deck-mounted cleats for sailing upwind in heavy air. I raced Sunfish regularly on Lake Michigan at age 9, and was dependent on a Harken ratchet block to allow me to hold the sheet for extended periods - and two ClamCleats to hold it for me upwind. Today there are ratchet blocks available (from Harken and other companies) that grip better than the large HexaRatchets of the 1970s. EVERYONE: when you reply to a post, please don't include the entire post you are replying to. Many of us get the "digest" version of this listserve, meaning we have to scroll past dozens of forwarded-forwarded-forwarded messages (repeated again and again) and "yahoo group" advertisements to get to the next message. The solution to this problem is for responders to do what I've done above, and include only the relevant lines from the post you are replying to. Thanks. |
Re: first sail
Wayne Carney
Shorty,
Actually.... there is one boat that does break down faster...... my PeepOK, now lets see how quick you can car-top it.... 8^) Wayne -----Original Message----- |
Telltail on Boom ?
Shorty
Was out sailing today, I have a ribbon tied to the boom about 18" aft from
the gooseneck. Using it as a telltale instead of doing the coathanger-off-the-yard doo-hickey thing. Sure is in a convenient place to look at, but was wondering if the airflow over the sail is distorting it's direction -- what do you guys think? Shorty |
Re: first sail
Shorty
Actually.... there is one boat that does break down faster...... my Peep
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Hen. It can because the mast is on a tabernacle, and everything stays on the boat - just lower the mast, attach straps and drive away. But it isn't a board boat, is a 14' cabin sailboat, so not really a comparison to a sunfish. I do however believe that an umbrella is a very useful accessory, works great as a poor man's bimini. At $3.50 from walmart, can't beat it. :) Shorty Breaking down was a real snap compared to a Hobie.I think only an umbrella takes down quicker. |
Re: Sunfish bridle traveler question
Dave & Joyce
And another thought. If the nine year old is not strong enough to hold the
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sheet for extended periods, he or she may also not be strong or heavy enough to right the boat in case of a knock-down and that'd be a rather serious life-safety issue. I came close to losing student once (a rather light-weight USAF airman) because he was having serious trouble righting the boat during some gusty winds on a COLD water lake in Northern Japan. He just wasn't heavy enough to do the job. He'd get it up and she'd go right over again. If we hadn't ran a trained skipper out to relieve him in one of the old 18' seahorses he might have succumbed to hypothermia. He was getting awfully tired and slower and slower. Dave J sd0044@... ================================================== ----- Original Message -----
From: Gail M. Turluck To: sunfish_sailor@... Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2003 10:49 Subject: RE: [sunfish_sailor] Re: Sunfish bridle traveler question YEP!! The Sunfish does not pinch!! It will sail fairly close to the wind, but few are successful when worrying about pulling the sail all the way to center. Only really pays off in extremely light wind in my experience ... You'd be getting the sheave up pretty high by the time you attach it to the loop ... Your choice. None of that would be legal for racing. Racers prefer without the loop. Few dealers have them anymore ... --G 8) ~~~/)~~~~/)~~~/)~~~~~/)~~~~~~/)~~ Gail M. Turluck Sunfish 24186 ~~~/)~~~~/)~~~/)~~~~~/)~~~~~~/)~~ -----Original Message----- From: John C [mailto:jkcjohn@...] Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2003 12:07 PM To: sunfish_sailor@... Subject: [sunfish_sailor] Re: Sunfish bridle traveler question Gail, I was thinking of using the bridle with the center loop to hold the block sheave. I could then just feed the sheet through the block and then tie it around the boom spar. I take it from your set up and comments that you prefer to allow the bridle connection to travel on the bridle. It seems to me that this limits your ability to bring in the boom as close to center as you might want to if you are really trying to pinch. My guess is that I probably am over estimating the pointing ability of the sunfish. John --- In sunfish_sailor@..., "Gail M. Turluck" <turluck@c...> wrote: > Hi John, > > If it's too windy for your 9 year old to handle the main and pull it in, > then he's just not ready for sailing in that much wind. As kids grow and > get stronger, they are ready more and more for challenging conditions. > Physical strength stays fairly well in line with ability to handle weather > conditions and the boat in standard set up. If he learns with the 3:1, > he'll always expect it. If there's a chance he'll race, it's likely best he > learn the "right" way and grow with it. > > The traveler block was standard for a short time. My 2000 boat did not come > with one. I don't think it's worth the expense. If you try to use the > sheave to make the 3:1 and have the bail on the block serve to slide back > and forth on the traveler wire, the probability is high that it will catch > at some point and the metal of the bail will cut the heavy plastic coating > on the wire. Right after that will come breaks in the traveler wire. Yeah, > they're "only" $15, but those $15's add up pretty quick! > > I tie a bowline with a tiny loop around the traveler wire and it slides back > and forth freely. It's bad enough the mainsheet often gets caught around > the back corner of the transom of the boat ... Having the traveler block > catch could be more trouble. > > My two cents! I always vote for K.I.S.S. (that last one is Sweetie!). > > --Gail Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ADVERTISEMENT If you do not wish to belong to Sunfish_sailor, you may unsubscribe by sending an email to: sunfish_sailor-unsubscribe@... Please do not send unsubscribe requests directly to the group. USEFUL ADDRESSES Post message: sunfish_sailor@... Subscribe: sunfish_sailor-subscribe@... Unsubscribe: sunfish_sailor-unsubscribe@... URL to egroups page: Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. Yahoo! Groups Sponsor If you do not wish to belong to Sunfish_sailor, you may unsubscribe by sending an email to: sunfish_sailor-unsubscribe@... Please do not send unsubscribe requests directly to the group. USEFUL ADDRESSES Post message: sunfish_sailor@... Subscribe: sunfish_sailor-subscribe@... Unsubscribe: sunfish_sailor-unsubscribe@... URL to egroups page: Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. |
Re: Sunfish bridle traveler question
Gail M. Turluck
YEP!! The Sunfish does not pinch!! It will sail fairly close to the wind,
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but few are successful when worrying about pulling the sail all the way to center. Only really pays off in extremely light wind in my experience ... You'd be getting the sheave up pretty high by the time you attach it to the loop ... Your choice. None of that would be legal for racing. Racers prefer without the loop. Few dealers have them anymore ... --G 8) ~~~/)~~~~/)~~~/)~~~~~/)~~~~~~/)~~ Gail M. Turluck Sunfish 24186 ~~~/)~~~~/)~~~/)~~~~~/)~~~~~~/)~~ -----Original Message-----
From: John C [mailto:jkcjohn@...] Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2003 12:07 PM To: sunfish_sailor@... Subject: [sunfish_sailor] Re: Sunfish bridle traveler question Gail, I was thinking of using the bridle with the center loop to hold the block sheave. I could then just feed the sheet through the block and then tie it around the boom spar. I take it from your set up and comments that you prefer to allow the bridle connection to travel on the bridle. It seems to me that this limits your ability to bring in the boom as close to center as you might want to if you are really trying to pinch. My guess is that I probably am over estimating the pointing ability of the sunfish. John --- In sunfish_sailor@..., "Gail M. Turluck" <turluck@c...> wrote: Hi John,it in, then he's just not ready for sailing in that much wind. As kidsgrow and get stronger, they are ready more and more for challengingconditions. Physical strength stays fairly well in line with ability to handleweather conditions and the boat in standard set up. If he learns with the3:1, he'll always expect it. If there's a chance he'll race, it'slikely best he learn the "right" way and grow with it.not come with one. I don't think it's worth the expense. If you try to usethe sheave to make the 3:1 and have the bail on the block serve toslide back and forth on the traveler wire, the probability is high that itwill catch at some point and the metal of the bail will cut the heavy plasticcoating on the wire. Right after that will come breaks in the travelerwire. Yeah, they're "only" $15, but those $15's add up pretty quick!slides back and forth freely. It's bad enough the mainsheet often gets caughtaround the back corner of the transom of the boat ... Having the travelerblock catch could be more trouble.Sweetie!).
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ADVERTISEMENT If you do not wish to belong to Sunfish_sailor, you may unsubscribe by sending an email to: sunfish_sailor-unsubscribe@... Please do not send unsubscribe requests directly to the group. USEFUL ADDRESSES Post message: sunfish_sailor@... Subscribe: sunfish_sailor-subscribe@... Unsubscribe: sunfish_sailor-unsubscribe@... URL to egroups page: Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. |
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