开云体育

I have a quick question about the harken block and swivel base. I
picked up the harken 144 swivel base and noticed the it looks like
Most people are using the 205 (lower profile) . Is the 144 going to
work ok in a sunfish

Thanks

Matt




--- In sunfish_sailor@..., "Nolan Habegger"
<nolanhabegger@f...> wrote:

Ned,

I'm a casual Sunfish cruiser, so if you are looking for class-legal

racing rigging you need to get more sage info from Gail, Wayne and
others.

For ratchet mainsheet blocks, see

.

For ratchet/cam combo blocks, see

).

Harken and Ronstan are the two brands that have the most name

recognition with me. I have one Sunfish with a Harken ratchet block,
and another with a Harken ratchet and cam combination. My preference
is the latter, because it affords me the option of a free hand when I
have consistent winds.

Vibration can be minimized with some indoor-outdoor carpeting or

similar padding in the daggerboard trunk.

The daggerboard is inserted with the "short edge" aft and the "long

edge" pointing towards the mast per Vanguard's literature (see
). I
don't know why that is so confusing, but it it is. When I first
started sailing, I used to mark the top of my board with a Sharpie
marker so I knew which edge was in front!

fair winds, following seas,

Nolan Habegger
The Woodlands, TX

Ned,

I'm a casual Sunfish cruiser, so if you are looking for class-legal racing rigging you need to get more sage info from Gail, Wayne and others.

For ratchet mainsheet blocks, see .
For ratchet/cam combo blocks, see ).

Harken and Ronstan are the two brands that have the most name recognition with me. I have one Sunfish with a Harken ratchet block, and another with a Harken ratchet and cam combination. My preference is the latter, because it affords me the option of a free hand when I have consistent winds.

Vibration can be minimized with some indoor-outdoor carpeting or similar padding in the daggerboard trunk.

The daggerboard is inserted with the "short edge" aft and the "long edge" pointing towards the mast per Vanguard's literature (see ). I don't know why that is so confusing, but it it is. When I first started sailing, I used to mark the top of my board with a Sharpie marker so I knew which edge was in front!

fair winds, following seas,

Nolan Habegger
The Woodlands, TX

Wayne,
Thanks much for your help. Enjoy and happy sailing!
Ron

=====
Ron Elfenbein, MD

__________________________________________________
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Hi,
Thanks. I sort of figured. I sailed it set-upo like I
thought it should be and it worked, it just did nto
look right to me. Thanks for the help!
Ron


--- techmoose99 <fesmrarsdrtg@...> wrote:

Hi Ron,

I also recently acquired a Minifish. Although I
haven't sailed the
Minifish yet, I have used it's sail and spars on
another boat. It is
just like rigging a Sunfish. The only difference I
can see is that
the Minifish doesn't have a bullet block near the
bottom of the mast
to run the halyard through and then over to the
halyard cleat. The
Minifish just has the halyard cleat near the bottom
of the mast.

As Wayne suggested, check out the Sunfish rigging
manual and the
photo section too. If you're still not sure about
something, let us
know. I have a copy of the Sunfish Bible, but I
didn't see any
reference to the Minifish in it.

Moose

=====
Ron Elfenbein, MD

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around

First, I want to thank particularly Gail and Wayne for answers to my
recent question about a newly pruchased Sunfish. Your were very
helpful. Thanks a lot!

I put the Fish in the water for the first time yesterday. What a lot
of fun! I may never sail again my big boat.

I see I need to add a block with cam for better main sheet control.
What were ALexander and CORTlandt thinking when they installed that
damn knee-banging hook!? What, please, is the block of choice among
Sailfish sailors, and a good source for it? And where is a good
source for Sunfish equipment? ALso, my '72 dagger board makes a
sounds like there's a killer whale right under my keel. Can this
vibration be stopped, and is it common? And finally, is the
straight, vertical, edge of the dagger board intended to be oriented
aft as per the drawings I've seen, or is it suppose to be the leading
edge (where it seems to belong)?

Thanks a lot!

Ned

Hi Ron,

I also recently acquired a Minifish. Although I haven't sailed the
Minifish yet, I have used it's sail and spars on another boat. It is
just like rigging a Sunfish. The only difference I can see is that
the Minifish doesn't have a bullet block near the bottom of the mast
to run the halyard through and then over to the halyard cleat. The
Minifish just has the halyard cleat near the bottom of the mast.

As Wayne suggested, check out the Sunfish rigging manual and the
photo section too. If you're still not sure about something, let us
know. I have a copy of the Sunfish Bible, but I didn't see any
reference to the Minifish in it.

Moose

Hi Ron,

There are some photos of a Minifish in the group PHOTOS area. These might
help some. If you'd like larger copies and have a highspeed connection
contact me "off list" and I will email the larger versions to you.

I've never rigged a Mini, but it looks to me like it's exactly the same as a
full size Sunfish. See if the Sunfish rigging manual in the group FILES area
provides some assistance.


Wayne

Hi Jim,

What I've not yet been able to figure out is this. How were the
plywood panel joints made water tight?

I believe Alcort used the wood boat building technology of the day. In a
nutshell, the boats were nailed and screwed together with each joint sealed
using a waterproof glue and/or calk. Then the whole boat received coats of
linseed oil and finished with multiple coats of marine varnish or marine
paint to seal the whole package. If that's not it exactly it's is pretty
close.

I've asked many sources, and I'm
about out of tricks. Perhaps someone remembers other boats made in
this fashion that might've used a similar technique.

The methods for making wood boats water tight has improved along with
technology across the ages, but the basic techniques are centuries old. Take
a look at web sites for building plywood boats today.
A great example is the wood canoe...


Wayne

-----Original Message-----
From: findleyjh@... [mailto:findleyjh@...]
Sent: Wednesday, June 23, 2004 1:51 PM
To: sunfish_sailor@...
Subject: [sunfish_sailor] Re: Foam


Just to add a tiny bit more...and ask a question. Sunfish were
produced with marine grade plywood before they were made of
fiberglass. Those earliest Sunfish had no foam.

What I've not yet been able to figure out is this. How were the
plywood panel joints made water tight?

Any and all help is appreciated. I've asked many sources, and I'm
about out of tricks. Perhaps someone remembers other boats made in
this fashion that might've used a similar technique.

Cheers,
Jim

Just to add a tiny bit more...and ask a question. Sunfish were
produced with marine grade plywood before they were made of
fiberglass. Those earliest Sunfish had no foam.

What I've not yet been able to figure out is this. How were the
plywood panel joints made water tight?

Any and all help is appreciated. I've asked many sources, and I'm
about out of tricks. Perhaps someone remembers other boats made in
this fashion that might've used a similar technique.

Cheers,
Jim


--- In sunfish_sailor@..., "Wayne Carney" <wcarney@f...>
wrote:

Just to add a bit to what Gail has said....

Some time in, I believe, the '70's the USCG made it mandatory for

all

factory built boats up to a certain size to contain enough

floatation to

prevent them from sinking if swamped or if the hull is breeched.

Fiberglass

Sunfish, having their roots as a sailing, life-saving board have

always had

the foam. As Gail described it's not only there for floatation, but

serves

to add internal support too.

So, "all Styrofoam must remain" both for added hull support and for

safety.

Wayne

-----Original Message-----
From: Gail M. Turluck [mailto:turluck@c...]
Sent: Monday, June 21, 2004 10:27 PM
To: sunfish_sailor@...
Subject: RE: [sunfish_sailor] Foam


All Sunfish have styrofoam blocks that are the interior support
between the deck and the hull. Various years have more or less
two-part foam to glue those blocks into place. If you are adding
an inspection port, the two-part foam that is in the way to reach
fittings to fix or back them up may be removed.
However, all styrofoam must remain.

--G
~~~/)~~~~/)~~~/)~~~~~/)~~~~~~/)~~
Gail M. Turluck
~~~/)~~~~/)~~~/)~~~~~/)~~~~~~/)~~

Way to go Jack,

As mentioned earlier I had never sailed before but read every book I
could find on sailing stories. Was I in for surprise.

There's no question that you can learn to sail the self-taught method. It
does, however, lend itself to being just full of surprises. If there was
ever a boat that made this approach fun for the open minded sailor it's the
Sunfish.

Keep us posted on your progress. You're doing great so far.


Wayne


P.S. Can't wait until you take up flying. ;^)

-----Original Message-----
From: Jack Tumbleweed Richardson [mailto:jackrichardson@...]
Sent: Tuesday, June 22, 2004 3:36 PM
To: sunfish_sailor@...
Subject: [sunfish_sailor] First trip out


It was an interesting moment when I pushed the Sunfish off the bank
into the pond. Up here in Maine a pond can be 224 acres large.

As mentioned earlier I had never sailed before but read every book I
could find on sailing stories. Was I in for surprise.

It was one of the most exhiliarating things I have done. After a
videos funniests start I had it flying over the water. It was pretty
intense but I sort of had control. At some point I panicked and
started back. As I approached between my dock and a big boulder in
the water, I dumped the boat over. The depth is 3 feet here. After
wrestling the sail down and trying to control the boat I got it to
the shore.

I can't wait to get out again. WOW! Sunfishing is awesome.

Jack

It was an interesting moment when I pushed the Sunfish off the bank
into the pond. Up here in Maine a pond can be 224 acres large.

As mentioned earlier I had never sailed before but read every book I
could find on sailing stories. Was I in for surprise.

It was one of the most exhiliarating things I have done. After a
videos funniests start I had it flying over the water. It was pretty
intense but I sort of had control. At some point I panicked and
started back. As I approached between my dock and a big boulder in
the water, I dumped the boat over. The depth is 3 feet here. After
wrestling the sail down and trying to control the boat I got it to
the shore.

I can't wait to get out again. WOW! Sunfishing is awesome.

Jack

I have just ordered the heavy-duty rub rail and plastic cockpit trim
to replace the old aluminum trim and cockpit trim on my 1978 Sunfish
but the items did not come with any installation instructions. Does
anyone have any practical advice to help me with the install? I have
already removed all old metal trim pieces.

Thanks.

Mark

HI,
I acquired a minifish and am having some difficulty setting it up. I took it out for
a spin the other day and had a blast but I know the lines were not set up
correctly. Any suggestions or id3eas where I might find a guide book ro
something on how to set up the boat properly? Thanks much
ron Elfenbein

I just got a Phantom (Sunfish copy). Took it out for the first time
last weekend. Had a blast! Launched from Englewood Boat basin, just
north of NYC. Can see the NY Skyline while I sail. Anyone else sail
their Sunny's in the Hudson River?

Just to add a bit to what Gail has said....

Some time in, I believe, the '70's the USCG made it mandatory for all
factory built boats up to a certain size to contain enough floatation to
prevent them from sinking if swamped or if the hull is breeched. Fiberglass
Sunfish, having their roots as a sailing, life-saving board have always had
the foam. As Gail described it's not only there for floatation, but serves
to add internal support too.

So, "all Styrofoam must remain" both for added hull support and for safety.


Wayne

All Sunfish have styrofoam blocks that are the interior support between the
deck and the hull. Various years have more or less two-part foam to glue
those blocks into place. If you are adding an inspection port, the two-part
foam that is in the way to reach fittings to fix or back them up may be
removed. However, all styrofoam must remain.

--G
~~~/)~~~~/)~~~/)~~~~~/)~~~~~~/)~~
Gail M. Turluck
~~~/)~~~~/)~~~/)~~~~~/)~~~~~~/)~~
"Arts is a bridge to walk across to a new life."
"Be prepared to act on your dreams just in case they do come true."
William Strickland, President and CEO, Manchester Craftsmen's Guild,
Pittsburgh, PA

Do all Sunfish have foam inside of them or was that just the older
boats?

Thanks
Mike

Hi Wayne,

Thanks for the info. I will get into the files area and check it out. I am
excited about getting onto the water shortly.

Jack



_____

From: Wayne Carney [mailto:wcarney@...]
Sent: Sunday, June 20, 2004 2:07 AM
To: sunfish_sailor@...
Subject: RE: [sunfish_sailor] Rigging the sunfish



Hi Jack,

The halyard should go through a fairlead (looks like a little 1 finger size
handle) on the deck at the base of the mast. It then ties off on a cleat
just behind the mast.

See the group FILES area in the Repair Guides folder > Parts Guide, Files,
Halyard 1 and Halyard 2.


Hope this helps,

Wayne

-----Original Message-----
From: Jack Tumbleweed Richardson [mailto:jackrichardson@...]
Sent: Thursday, June 17, 2004 2:42 PM
To: sunfish_sailor@...
Subject: [sunfish_sailor] Rigging the sunfish


This is my first post to this group. Monday I got out my new boat
and started to rig the sails, rudder and center board. It was not
the easiest process. The one thing that I need to know is where does
the halyard rope pass through on the deck? I got the halyard down to
the deck and found two possible places, one near the mast and the
other near the edge of the boat. As you can tell I am not a sailor,
never sailed before, so I tried to follow the instructions
carefully. They were not very helpful.
Where does that halyard go????

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Hi Jack,

The halyard should go through a fairlead (looks like a little 1 finger size
handle) on the deck at the base of the mast. It then ties off on a cleat
just behind the mast.

See the group FILES area in the Repair Guides folder > Parts Guide, Files,
Halyard 1 and Halyard 2.


Hope this helps,

Wayne

Hello,

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