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Re: Questions From The First-Time Sailor


 

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And re the hazard of a kickback from a table saw — in case this spares anyone an accident — I have a friend who supplied a vivid description, nine years ago, to another group:

All my woodworking mentors have urged me always to use a splitter on a table saw and never never never to stand directly behind the workpiece being fed into the blade, because sometimes the saw will grab a slice of wood and zip it back to, and occasionally through, the operator.

As one vividly put it, "A kickback can punch right through your bellybutton and, if you're squared up, right through your spine." I had regarded this as well-intentioned hyperbole.

A splitter is a vertical fin of thin metal directly behind the sawblade that prevents either the workpiece or the offcut being sawn from it from curving back into the sawblade (which rotates toward the sawyer) and kicking back toward the operator.

I seldom use my splitter because it's cumbersome and sometimes snags the workpiece. But however, mindful of my bellybutton and spine, I never stand directly behind the sawblade. Wherefore I am able to address y'all tonight.

This morning, whilst engaged on a secret project related to the upcoming relaunch of [a friend’s 63' motorsailer being renovated], ?I needed to cut a little piece of ash into a littler piece of ash. As woodworking skills go, I am classed as what one of my mentors called "sawdusters," guys who cut and cut and cut again, finally cut too small, and start over. I was starting over. I was using my left hand to press against the cutoff (left) side of the workpiece to keep it from chattering as I fed it through the saw with my right hand.

Suddenly there was a zing, and the cutoff disappeared. My left middle finger, formerly pressed against the cutoff, now pressed itself against the sawblade. The damage was much less than I deserved, being bandaid manageable. But since I take a baby aspirin daily to thin the blood trickling through my aged arteries, I bled like a stuck pig, and it took rather a while to get all a-tanto.

It was only when I returned to the shop that I noticed the shattered window. The offcut -- a piece of ash 6 1/8" x 3/4" x 5/8" -- and weighing no more than an ounce or two, had shot 30 feet across the shop and through a 4' x 6' window. The tempered glass had done its duty, crumbling into forty-leven million pieces, of which over the course of several hours I managed to sweep up forty-ten. What blew out onto the ground I may leave to the archaeologists.

An afternoon of phoning round established that tempered glass of such dimensions is no longer standard but that for somewhat less than a million bucks I could have a sheet custom-made, perhaps in time for Christmas.

Later in the day, back on the secret project, I managed to remove the fingerprints from two of my fingers with my belt sander. Still, life is good. All my fingers -- not to mention both thumbs -- still belong to me, and the majority of them are operable. Life is good enough.

So then I replied, at too much length to paste in here, about the importance of foreseeing the nature of such accidents, because the only way to avoid them is beforehand — that is, once the machine gets hold of something, that bite enables it to get an exponentially stronger bite very quickly, so that once these accidents are underway, they’re over before you know what’s hitting you. ?Ducking or dodging is not an option.

He responded with:

My most recent woodworking mentor used to have a pronounced hitch in his gitalong. When he got ready to use a machine he would stand there, cock his head, and pause with his hand on the power switch. Sometimes the pause was quite extended. Finally I asked him wassup. He held up his left hand, which had a fat shiny scar straight across the palm. "I try to always stop to think about all the ways a machine can hurt me," he said. "If I forget, my palm tingles to remind me."

I retrieved my rogue cutoff from among the window shards on the ground and have suspended it above the table saw so that it taps me lightly on the noggin when I square up to the machine.

(“Squaring up” being what the previous mentor had said would put you in the line of fire, a few paragraphs above.)

Crispin

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On May 20, 2020, at 10:16 PM, crispin_m_miller via <crispinmm@...> wrote:

Re shifting the fence — I’m glad you’ve mentioned that because 诲辞苍’迟 have a way here to send a sketch, and I neglected to emphasize that if you do what I’m attempting to describe (as I think you’re describing too), you are slicing off a LOWER edge of your square pole. ?(With your pole sitting in a lopsided vee between fence and blade.)

I hope so because I?诲辞苍’迟?think you want to set up the fence and blade to slice off an?upper?edge. Some experts might possibly know of exceptions, but i 诲辞苍’迟 think you ever want to trap a workpiece under a sloping blade, between the blade and the fence, because if the stick ever goes out of line and the blade gets too good a hold of it, that will set up a classic kickback event. ?Such as have been known to impale people.

Next assignment: what is a similar trick to cut a dodecagon?

Octagons not good enough? ?Oy. ?Not this week, I’m supposed to be loading a truck with our belongings and they’re not even all boxed yet. ?Misjudged how soon my big strong son would be done with his (now online) schoolwork and could help me.

There does have to be some theoretical plane of the blade that would let you use the same trick — i.e., tilt up the corner of the stick to define the desired fence distance. ?(And then having set the fence, reset the blade to 30 degrees off vertical and make your cuts.) ?What’s less clear to me is whether that desired initial blade plane is within the 45-degree range the blade can actually go to. ?I did sketch at it for a little while (can you tell I’m avoiding something?) but I didn’t see a clear way to define the angle without plowing into equations with a calculator. ?Many angles in the sketch are 30’s and 60’s, but then the angle of the desired edge below the middle of the side is 15, and that makes the angle I want to find look messy. ? When I allow myself to come back to it, I think I’ll punt the math and draw it up in Onshape, and just let the software tell me what the angle is. ?(Do you know about Onshape? It’s a cloud-based full-blown 3D solid-modeling CAD app by the same guy who launched Solidworks. ?if you’re willing for your work to be accessible to others, the subscription is free.) ?(But then there’s also FreeCad, which lives on your own machine and is as private as you like, but it’s less debugged because it’s designed and coded entirely by volunteers. ?So it’s still beta, but very impressive that it even works.)

Disclaimer: ?the octagon trick is not my discovery, I only verified it (so as to believe it). ?I thought it was pretty slick too. ?I was told it by my friend Dennis Goodrum — a guy who pulled off transferring into MIT at 38 from a Wisconsin junior college and was formerly a carpenter — so this is presumably carpenter lore, from such guys as know what all the engravings on a rafter square are about.

At the time, by the way, I was doing a research project on how MIT kids who are such whippersnappers on paper can very often be so clueless in the shop. ?(I suspect it’s just because being rewarded for bookwormery means you may not be very motivated to get your nose out of your books. ?But it was interesting to find an inverse correlation between the mechanical comprehension I was assessing and the MIT GPAs of those same students.) ?

Dennis signed up for one of my research interviews. ?I had two topics, one on structure and one on power transmission (ways to gear down a wimpy motor), and I normally interviewed each volunteer on either one or the other. ?Dennis blew away the first topic in half the normal time, so I also gave him the other one, and he did the same on that one too.

More next week some time, if you haven’t done the trig yourself by then —

Crispin

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On May 20, 2020, at 7:18 PM, James Lovegren <jlovegrenww@...> wrote:

Crispin,

I did a quick mock-up of your 45 octagon trick and can see it ought to work.? Pretty slick.? I didn't go through with making the cut which would have required shifting my unifence from left to right.
??
Next assignment: what is a similar trick to cut a dodecagon?? It's been awhile since I've done it but I suppose I figure out the fence distance with a little bit of trig.? It's a simpler process of getting?to round when I start with a 12 sided blank.? The saw is set at 30 degrees and the four corners are cut off.? Then the blank is flipped around and four more cuts are made.? It does take some care to make sure you keep the work flat?down on the table, and it's helpful to make some marks so you don't get lost, but I find it worth the extra effort.

James Lovegren


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