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Well, I finally stepped up and ordered a conversion kit from KEP. I
may have a Subaru Impreza 2.2 engine still in the car lined up from a
Subaru collision rebuilder. Does anybody have any experience with
Imprezas? The rebuilder tells me that some (but a not all) of the
Imprezas have 2.2 engines that are identical to the Legacy engine.

Hobert, do you have any thoughts on this? Is this something to stay
away from?

Thanks

The 2.2 came as an option in the 1995 Impreza. This year computer requires
about thirty more wires and a speed sensor which is why we recommend using a
'90-94 engine. 1996+ use a different computer. We have made some six pulse
speed sensors from the Vanagons totalizer box which is in your speedometer
cable under the drivers left foot. It should provide 16 pulses but I think
6 will work. We charge $75 exchange for these.

Hobert Kennedy
Kennedy Engineered Products
38830 17th St. East
Palmdale, CA 93550

(661) 272-1147

John Seehorn wrote:

Well, I finally stepped up and ordered a conversion kit from KEP. I
may have a Subaru Impreza 2.2 engine still in the car lined up from a
Subaru collision rebuilder. Does anybody have any experience with
Imprezas? The rebuilder tells me that some (but a not all) of the
Imprezas have 2.2 engines that are identical to the Legacy engine.

Hobert, do you have any thoughts on this? Is this something to stay
away from?

I think the 2.2 Imprezza came out in '95. I imagine it would come with the
newer OBD-II F.I. system rather than the '90-'94 OBD-I system we all know
and love. I'm aware of a couple of Subagonners who have braved the
challenge of wiring up the newer systems with seemingly good results
(except for the speed sensor issue), so it is possible. Also make sure the
exhaust ports are of the dual variety if you want to use the KEP header.
In '96, the Legacy 2.2 heads have a single exhaust port (I don't know
if/when the Imprezza 2.2L switched over).

Dick
Grass Valley, CA

As far as I knew all the legacy engines are the same as the impreza. We only
get the 1.5, 1.8, 2.0 and 2.0 Turbo WRX though. The turbo motor is different
to the twin turbo legacy of course!

I'm using an impreza 1.8 16V single point injected engine from a 91 impreza
:-)

Allan :-)

Hi Dick,
Have you checked to see what kind of signal the stock speed sensor on a
Vanagon cruise control system sends? The Bentley manual shows a picture of
the sensor being mounted behind the speedometer in the instrument panel.
This could be a simpler fix than modifing the egr counter box.
Cheers,
Kevin Dawson

calwolfie@... wrote:

Hi Dick,
Have you checked to see what kind of signal the stock speed sensor on a
Vanagon cruise control system sends? The Bentley manual shows a picture of
the sensor being mounted behind the speedometer in the instrument panel.
This could be a simpler fix than modifing the egr counter box.

No I haven't (don't have access to a van w/cruise control). The Bentley
manual says nothing about the sensor except that it's an inductive pickup.
There's nothing about how many pulses/rotation the cruise control unit
requires, etc. I dug out a spare inst. cluster and lo and behold, it has a
molded spot for a speed sensor with a plastic tab covering up the hole. I
pried out the tab and peered inside to find the rotating magnet which drives
the speedo needle, but no perceptible bumps, indentations or metal blobs which
could be used by an inductive pickup. Do you need a special speedo for
factory cruise control?

I've been talking with Mark Johnson and Darrell Boehler (fellow Subagonners)
who are also building speed sensors. In doing so, I've learned some important
info regarding what different year ECUs need as an input. My first vss was
for a very early model '90 ECU, which according to the Subaru wiring diagram
and my analysis of the instrument cluster, required some signal conditioning
electronics to give the ECU a 0-5V digital signal which alternated 4
times/wheel revolution.

Recently, Mark dissected a '91 Subaru instrument cluster and discovered that
the reed switch (vss) output is passed on to the ECU with no signal
conditioning circuitry whatsoever. ECU B11 simply gets open or gnd from the
reed switch 4 times/wheel revolution. Much simpler. Subaru apparently moved
that circuitry to the ECU. No wonder my vss became flakey when I upgraded to
a '91 ECU! I have no idea when in '90 or '91 they changed this and
unfortunately don't have access to the instrument cluster I dissected to
verify my original conclusion. I could've been imagining things after all.

Until someone sets me straight, I'm going to say that making a vss for a
'91-'94 ECU is very easy, with the '90 version being somewhat more difficult.
The required parts come to a few dollars from radio shack and it shouldn't
take more than a couple of hours to build. A speed sensor for '95 and up (16
pulses/rev.?) would require a different approach, but could still be
implemented within the EGR/OXS elapsed mileage box.

Rough steps are as follows (I intend to take some pictures of mine someday
...):

1. Get a reed switch from Radio Shack (Cat.#:980-0266 or equiv.)
,2098,CTLG_7_9800266,00.html

and 4 small magnets (Cat.#: 64-1895)
,2098,CTLG_1_6401895,00.html

I don't know how many there are per package, probably 2 or 4.
Also get an epoxy stick from an auto parts store. You know, the kind that's
cylindrical (about 1" diam. X 4" long) with the black stuff in the center with
gray stuff all around.

2. Remove the EGR/OXS elapsed mileage counter from underneath the left-front
of the van (requires a 10mm wrench).

3. Remove the 4 small phillips screws and split the case.

4. Pry out 2 of the gears so that you can remove the shaft from the unit.
Rough up about 1/4" of the shaft directly below (on the inside) the snap ring
furthest from the gears. The other side of the snap ring is a bearing
surface, so don't rough it up.

5. Cut off and mix a piece of epoxy large enough to build up the shaft by
3/16" thick by 1/4" long. Wrap the epoxy around the newly roughed up shaft
and make it kind of square and as symetrical as possible. Either poke the 4
magnets into the epoxy now or glue them to the epoxy later (I'd try to sink
them into the epoxy now). They should oppose each other on four sides and you
should make sure they all face the same way, in or out (I think??). In other
words, stack them up on a table, the bottom of each of the magnets should face
into the epoxy or out from the epoxy (I think). Alow the epoxy to harden.

6. Drill a 1/4" (?? - switch should be snug) hole in the half of the unit
without the gears. Locate the hole such that it aims at a right angle to the
shaft and is in the center of the flat side of raised (from the outside)
portion of the case, which is just inside of the threaded speedo cable
attachment point. You have to be looking at the case to know where I'm
(poorly) describing.

7. Feed the reed switch wires into the hole from the inside and either drill
and run them through another hole on the same piece, or drill a hole on the
other half and run them back into the case that way. In either case, you need
to leave enough wire to split the case. Note: Before installing the switch,
rotate the shaft with magnets endfire of the reed switch and using a
multimeter, verify that the switch opens and closes 4 times/revolution. I
don't know how close to the magnets is ideal. You don't want the switch to
stay shut at higher speeds or not have time to close (if the flux is too
weak).

8. Install the greased shaft (don't for get the washers/shims on either end of
the shaft) and gears. Put the box back together with the reed switch wires on
the outside of the box. Position the reed switch such that it doesn't
interfere with the magnets on the shaft and works correctly as described above
when the shaft is rotated. Once you find the sweet spot, glue the reed switch
into place and seal the holes (with Goop, of course!).

9. Solder one side of the switch to terminal 31 (on the inside) and solder the
other side to a wire which (probably through a connector of some sort) will
wire into terminal B11 on the ECU. My black box had a 5/16" plug on the
connector side which popped out allowing an easy exit from the box. It was
sized nicely for 1/4" wire loom.

10. Put the box back together with 4 screws being careful to cram the wires
in such that they don't interfere with the workings of the box. Try it out
again before installing onto the Urabus.

Did I forget something?

I have no idea how many cycles the reed switch recommended above will take
before failing. Mine has 5000 or so miles on it and is still working.

Happy Urabussing,

Dick Myers
Grass Valley, CA

P.S. Mark is attempting to mount the guts of the Subaru speed sensor (vss)
onto the back of the VW speedo. He plans to report to the group how it turns
out.