Is 1/2 HP really enough?
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New to the group, just picked up my first SB (1952 10K) which came with a 1/2 HP Westinghouse motor. Not sure but motor at least looks original. Anyone know what these machines came with new? Poor thing is struggling to take even a 20 though cut. Is it possible that something is keeping it from making full power? Start cap starts it right up, but not sure if the run cap could possibly be causing a problem. Any help would be appreciated. Machine was in pieces when I found it a few days ago, here'
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开云体育Nice looking 10K! Mine came with a brand new 1 HP motor (it had been 3 phase) and it really struggles to make a 20 thou cut too. But the problem is in the flat belt, not the power of the motor. When it bogs down it just throws the belt off the pulleys. Does your motor stall on heavy cuts or is one of the belts slipping? The 1966 SB catalog that I have seen lists all the motor options as being 1/2 HP. Lots of factors can affect depth of cut ability. Material, cutter, RPM of work and feed rate. A flat belt upgrade is on my to do list. I know that all the power available is not being transferred to the spindle. In the mean time when hogging off material, I find the fastest removal rate that works by experimenting and then just accepting the extra turning time. It's all enjoyable to me and way better than when I didn't have a lathe... Turning scrap parts into pounds of chips and killing cutters if half the fun!
On 11/6/23 08:48, soloboxrider wrote:
New to the group, just picked up my first SB (1952 10K) which came with a 1/2 HP Westinghouse motor. Not sure but motor at least looks original. Anyone know what these machines came with new? Poor thing is struggling to take even a 20 though cut. Is it possible that something is keeping it from making full power? Start cap starts it right up, but not sure if the run cap could possibly be causing a problem. Any help would be appreciated. Machine was in pieces when I found it a few days ago, here' |
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Cuts like that are for roughing materials for production work. If you're doing production work it's good to have that capability. Maybe even if you're not doing production work, if your shop time is very limited. :) But that isn't appropriate for fine work. So you should set your depth of cut for the kind of work you need. As they say, it's harder to put material back on than it is to take it off. Only you can determine what's appropriate if you're in your own shop... I have never done production, so my needs are going to be different from those of a guy who is doing production. And I piddle around trying to get the very best accuracy I can manage. Someday maybe I'll be good enough at it to take my ability for granted. Today ain't that day, though! My Heavy 10L is vintage 1941, and was shipped from the factory to a government armory toolroom with a 3/4hp single phase motor. I expect they wanted excellent accuracy and best productivity... Bill in OKC? William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.) Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY! Physics doesn't care about your schedule. The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better. Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Monday, November 6, 2023 at 01:19:52 PM CST, Rick <vwrick@...> wrote:
According to How To Run A Lathe, the maximum depth of cut of a SB9 is .125" in hot rolled carbon steel. the SB13 is .250", and the SB16 is .375". I have never tried those depths on either my 9 or 13. ? |
Bill in OKC too