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I recently purchased a bench from Home Despot that has both levelers and castors. It has two full length drawers that seem to be of pretty good quality. The top is butcher board. It is the typical

Thanks for the replies.? The depth needed for the lathe and drive is a concern, and I am thinking of a wider (deeper) top to give room for it all.? If the wider top was fastened to both the cabinet

I have three of them, two the wooden-topped ones, Yukon brand, that are 22" deep by 46" long. the other is a US General, 18" deep x 42" wide. They were advertised as 44", but the handle that bolts on

??? ??? I decided to consolidate 3 of my rollaway tool boxes & bought the largest that HF had at the time the 56x22 top & lower with the 7 drawer side? box .I had read a bunch of the reviews &

My SB9A, when I bought it, came with a maple top. It is 36x60x3”. It weighs around 200lbs. Mounting something like this on a 22x48 toolbox would probably work excellent. ?Btw, I have the original

I bought a wooden countertop from Home Depot made of acacia, IIRC. Cost me around $150? for the 8' top I bought. Got used for the kitchen sink area, and before I could go buy another, the price of

I have found that the rating of wheels is not what a normal person would expect.? I have purchased wheels that say they are rated for 300 pounds, but might not last more than a few months with 100

??? ??? You may want to check at a " Habitat for Humanity " store & see what they have . A solid core door on top of a tool box would be fine . My 9A has been on a Solid core door on a bench I

??? ??? I think your on to something there . One guy said he had his tool box mounted in his van/truck & the wheels failed in that application also . I think I probably would have removed teh

Rubber and plastic wheels have a tendency to get flat if not rolled around very often. Some are better than others but they are all probably over rated weight wise. I like to go bigger as they roll

Not mine ,just saw this on marketplace,I'm not buying anything right now but maybe somebody is loo king. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/586096956248019/?mibextid=dXMIcH

I need information concerning the difference between the v belt outdrive pulley on a 9in. tool room cabinet model and the outdrive v belt pulley on a 9in. horizontal lathe. The part number is the same

??? ??? I can't say for sure , but the difference may be the bore in the pulley ? The should all have the same speeds ? ??? ??? animal

And of course you will need a segmented belt for the under drive with the V-belt sheaves. Used on my horizontal for convenience. I haven't cut the UMD flat belt yet, but I have pulled the spindle for

New to the group, just picked up my first SB (1952 10K) which came with a 1/2 HP Westinghouse motor. Not sure but motor at least looks original. Anyone know what these machines came with new? Poor

1/2 HP should be well enough power to run your lathe.? My 9" SBL originally had a 1/4 HP motor on it.? It finally died and replaced with a 1/2 HP DC PM motor. Tow things that come to mind is, how

Nice looking 10K! Mine came with a brand new 1 HP motor (it had been 3 phase) and it really struggles to make a 20 thou cut too. But the problem is in the flat belt, not the power of the motor. When

I have the original 1/2 hp motor on my 1947 SB9A. ?I replaced the leather flat belt with a serpentine automotive belt that I run with the flat side to the pulleys. ?I take .050" cuts in steel

I agree , when i got my 9A it had a 1/3 or 1/2 hp motor & I never had a problem bogging the machine down . I took some very heavy experimental cuts? way way heavier than .020 just feeling out the

According to How To Run A Lathe, the maximum depth of cut of a SB9 is .125" in hot rolled carbon steel. the SB13 is .250", and the SB16 is .375". I have never tried those depths on either my 9 or