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lubricating the quick change on a single tumbler 13 inch
I have a 1947 vintage 13 inch SB with the single stumbler quick change gear box.
I don't use the quick change very often, but today when I used it, the longitudinal feed seem to work like normal, but the gears were very noisy.
I would describe the sound as a "rattling".
Before operation, I did add the Type B oil in of the gits oil caps on the quick change gear box.
I then tried operating the quick change in several different feed ranges and the rattling noise was present in all of the ranges I tried.?
Is this rattling noise indicative of a mechanical problem developing in the gear box or is it just a lack of lubrication on the gear teeth face??
If mechanical any ideas as to where to look to diagnose?
If a lubrication issue, should I also be adding lubrication to the gear faces??If so, what type of lubrication is recommended?
Thanks. |
开云体育???? if it's any thing like the 9A gear box it counts on the oil
traveling through it's reservoir & going through the casting
oil passage's & the finally to the oil wicks in the gear box
that lube the shafts & gears . I can't say I remember seeing
anything when i had mine apart that actually got oil to the gear
teeth . These machines were a lot like Harley & other early
motorcycles in that they operated on z total loss oil system . Ya
just keep feedin oil to it to make it last . I usually fill my
gearbox oil cup before I use the lathe & then top it off as I
use it . On my older lathe which was a change gear lathe so all
the gears were exposed except tor the apron I used " open gear
lube " from a spray can from NAPA . this is some pretty sticky
stuff & clung to the gears , but also helped airborne crap
from hanging out there too . DO ya by chance have a copy of the
rebuild book ? if not I recommend it , it also comes with a felt
kit which if ya don't know th history of yer machine it is
probably a real good idea to at least pull the spindle to
check/replace the spindle wicks? before any damage shows up . animal On 1/12/25 9:13 PM, Chuck Lindquist via
groups.io wrote:
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Hi There,
?
When oiling the gearbox, it is desirable to point the nozzle? of the
oil gun up under the skirt of the gearbox casting and squirt some
oil up onto the cone gear cluster the lever engage.
?
Gears that "rattle" when engaged usually are not properly meshed
or engaged completely.? Are sure the noise is coming from the
gearbox? Could it be from the gears on the banjo bracket?
?
The gears in the gearbox are fixed on shafts and really cannot get
out of proper mesh unless there is something broken or very worn.
The gears on the banjo bracket (referred to as the end gears by some)
are mounted on shafts that can be adjusted to change the gear
position and hence the meshing of the gears.
?
Good Luck!
-Blue Chips-
Webb
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When I bought my SB13 it made a huge racket when I used the gearbox. I used this to negotiate a better price. When I got it home, I tore it completely down for a refurbish before moving it into my basement. What I found was the 2 shafts that carried the gears had worn the oilite bushings in the case tremendously. On 2 of them, they had worn through completely, to the cast iron. The shaft ends had also worn down, the worst was down to .955". I put in all new bushings, and sleeved the shaft ends that ride on the bushings back to 1". ?I cleaned everything out of the oil holes, installed new felts and all is good now. |
Our 1943 14.5" has a single sliding lever plus 3 position on top plus in out plunger at the change wheels. ?Hope you can give it a name from that description. ?When stripped, I discovered that to correctly oil the conical gear cluster's sliding member's bearing, the cluster lever has to align with the oil point, as the oil point feeds via a drip pipe to land on the bearing of the sliding cluster. ?The pipe was distorted & not restorable, so now, every time the gearbox is put into use, I crouch down and apply oil upwards into the works from a squirty oil can. ?That bearing is quite badly worn, but the gears still work. ?The oil I use here is steam loco motion oil, which is ISO 220 with a tackiness additive so it tends to stay put, but repeated every 4 hours if the job takes that long. ?The same stuff goes on all the gear teeth, and to that end I have added drilled & hollowed out 10mm bolts to the top of the back gear covers. ?The hollowing out contains a piece of felt to keep the muck out. ?Oil is only added here when back gear is in use. ?A squirty oil can can land oil on the change wheels through the tumbler gap in the guard. ? Eddie
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开云体育It is kinda suspicious that the noise occurs in whatever gear you select.? It may be coming from before or after the gear box.? You might want to check the gears which feed the gearbox from the spindle and listen carefully to the apron to see if it is coming from there HTH Jack On 1/13/2025 12:13 AM, Chuck Lindquist
via groups.io wrote:
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