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I have a simple question. How deep of cuts do you normally make?
I have a 1949 vintage SB9C, with 6 speeds. I replaced the 1/4 hp motor with a 1/2 HP one. I use carbide a lot, but HSS still gets used some. Many of the videos say I should take at least a 0.005" cut for the best finish. I usually cannot take more than 0.002" with dragging down, or stopping, the spindle.
What's reasonable for me?
Thanks, Steven
|
On my 10K I could take a .060 DOC no problem.?
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On Jun 24, 2023, at 8:20 PM, Steven Schlegel <sc.schlegel@...> wrote:
?I have a simple question. How deep of cuts do you normally make?
I have a 1949 vintage SB9C, with 6 speeds. I replaced the 1/4 hp motor with a 1/2 HP one. I use carbide a lot, but HSS still gets used some. Many of the videos say I should take at least a 0.005" cut for the best finish. I usually cannot take more than 0.002" with dragging down, or stopping, the spindle.
What's reasonable for me?
Thanks, Steven
|
I regularly take .050 on my 9A
Two variables to look at - feeds and speeds.
Try feeding slower.
Make sure your RPM is right for the diameter - your SFPM (surface
feet per minute). This can make a HUGE difference.
The Is-It-Plugged in question - is the bull gear pin that pins
the spindle to the headstock pulley in place?
What else slows down? The motor, the
countershaft?
On 6/25/23 00:03, David R8 wrote:
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On my 10K I could take a .060 DOC no problem.?
?I have a simple question. How deep of cuts do
you normally make?
I have a 1949 vintage SB9C, with 6 speeds. I replaced the 1/4
hp motor with a 1/2 HP one. I use carbide a lot, but HSS still
gets used some. Many of the videos say I should take at least
a 0.005" cut for the best finish. I usually cannot take more
than 0.002" with dragging down, or stopping, the spindle.
What's reasonable for me?
Thanks, Steven
|
0.002” is way too low. ?I run 0.015”-0.020” at a minimum for the hardest materials. ?Material? ?Speeds? ?What size is your motor?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I have a simple question. How deep of cuts do you normally make?
I have a 1949 vintage SB9C, with 6 speeds. I replaced the 1/4 hp motor with a 1/2 HP one. I use carbide a lot, but HSS still gets used some. Many of the videos say I should take at least a 0.005" cut for the best finish. I usually cannot take more than 0.002" with dragging down, or stopping, the spindle.
What's reasonable for me?
Thanks, Steven
|
What sort of carbide are you using? I've never had good luck with
the 0 degree rake brazed carbide. I hear that it wants to run
really fast.
On 6/25/23 14:24, Brandon Corey wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
0.002” is way too low. ?I run 0.015”-0.020” at a minimum for the
hardest materials. ?Material? ?Speeds? ?What size is your motor?
Brandon
I have a simple question. How deep of cuts
do you normally make?
I have a 1949 vintage SB9C, with 6 speeds. I replaced
the 1/4 hp motor with a 1/2 HP one. I use carbide a
lot, but HSS still gets used some. Many of the videos
say I should take at least a 0.005" cut for the best
finish. I usually cannot take more than 0.002" with
dragging down, or stopping, the spindle.
What's reasonable for me?
Thanks, Steven
|
If the spindle is slowing or stopping either: 1. the motor is not powerful enough (1/4 should do better, 1/2 is plenty)? 2. the belt is slipping on a pulley or? 3. a pulley is slipping on a shaft( bull gear pin not engaged or a broken\missing key or pin on some other gear.
When the spindle stops is the motor still turning?? With the motor unplugged run the toolpost into contact with the chuck and try to turn the motor pulley by hand and see where the motion stops.
On a 9 inch lathe with 1/2 hp HSS cutters should easily cut .050.? When using carbide be sure use positive rake cutters and smaller depths.
|
Wow. Lots of questions. One fact is really obvious. My machine operator pair should take cuts 10x deeper than I am.
The lathe head and all associated gearing is good. It was recently rebuilt and all pins, etc. were replaced correctly. Of that I am pretty certain. The drive unit moves freely, was also rebuilt, and operates correctly.?
Speeds are from the ebay chart I bought. The HSS tools I grind are based upon lots of videos I watch. I bought a jig to help get the angles correct. My carbide are inserts, many are still the original chinesium, but are being replaced
by higher quality as they die. I use a Boxer quick change toolpost.
Now, here is where I feel the problem lies since I do not have the power to make deep cuts:?
I use a link belt on the motor. It slips especially as oil gets on it. The bearing in the drive unit slings oil. The drive belt to the lathe head is a serpentine auto belt. It seems to transfer power efficiently. The drive unit is mounted
on channel so it's adjustable.??
I am wondering about switching to an auto v-belt for the motor. Next, could the channel be flexing? It is the kind used to support conduit.
Thanks,
Steven
Get
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Show quoted text
What sort of carbide are you using? I've never had good luck with the 0 degree rake brazed carbide. I hear that it wants to run really fast.
On 6/25/23 14:24, Brandon Corey wrote:
0.002” is way too low. ?I run 0.015”-0.020” at a minimum for the hardest materials. ?Material? ?Speeds? ?What size is your motor?
Brandon
I have a simple question. How deep of cuts do you normally make?
I have a 1949 vintage SB9C, with 6 speeds. I replaced the 1/4 hp motor with a 1/2 HP one. I use carbide a lot, but HSS still gets used some. Many of the videos say I should take at least a 0.005" cut for the best finish. I usually cannot take more than 0.002"
with dragging down, or stopping, the spindle.
What's reasonable for me?
Thanks, Steven
|
Can you share some photos of your belt setup? In particular, the area with the bearing that's throwing oil.
I had similar problems with belt slipping, and just had to tighten it up; but I haven't had any issues with getting lubricant on the drive pulleys (and I recall a recent thread about that... I'm assuming that was also your lathe.)
Seeing some details would definitely help.
--Rogan
Wow. Lots of questions. One fact is really obvious. My machine operator pair should take cuts 10x deeper than I am.
The lathe head and all associated gearing is good. It was recently rebuilt and all pins, etc. were replaced correctly. Of that I am pretty certain. The drive unit moves freely, was also rebuilt, and operates correctly.?
Speeds are from the ebay chart I bought. The HSS tools I grind are based upon lots of videos I watch. I bought a jig to help get the angles correct. My carbide are inserts, many are still the original chinesium, but are being replaced
by higher quality as they die. I use a Boxer quick change toolpost.
Now, here is where I feel the problem lies since I do not have the power to make deep cuts:?
I use a link belt on the motor. It slips especially as oil gets on it. The bearing in the drive unit slings oil. The drive belt to the lathe head is a serpentine auto belt. It seems to transfer power efficiently. The drive unit is mounted
on channel so it's adjustable.??
I am wondering about switching to an auto v-belt for the motor. Next, could the channel be flexing? It is the kind used to support conduit.
Thanks,
Steven
Get
What sort of carbide are you using? I've never had good luck with the 0 degree rake brazed carbide. I hear that it wants to run really fast.
On 6/25/23 14:24, Brandon Corey wrote:
0.002” is way too low.? I run 0.015”-0.020” at a minimum for the hardest materials.? Material?? Speeds?? What size is your motor?
Brandon
I have a simple question. How deep of cuts do you normally make?
I have a 1949 vintage SB9C, with 6 speeds. I replaced the 1/4 hp motor with a 1/2 HP one. I use carbide a lot, but HSS still gets used some. Many of the videos say I should take at least a 0.005" cut for the best finish. I usually cannot take more than 0.002"
with dragging down, or stopping, the spindle.
What's reasonable for me?
Thanks, Steven
|
Do you have the setup with the V belt pulley on the motor and a
large flat pulley on the countershaft? Looks strange but this was
standard.
I'm a great fan of the link belts for V-belt pulleys. I've had
one long time no problem on a wood lathe. Link belt on a flat
pulley sounds like a problem to me but I have no direct
experience.
A V belt in a V groove wedges in and gets good traction. A
regular V belt works well enough on that big, flat, pulley because
there is so much surface area in contact.
So yes, changing that belt sounds to me like a reasonable thing
to try.
On 6/25/23 16:13, Steven Schlegel
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Wow. Lots of questions. One fact is
really obvious. My machine operator pair should take cuts 10x
deeper than I am.
The lathe head and all associated gearing
is good. It was recently rebuilt and all pins, etc. were
replaced correctly. Of that I am pretty certain. The drive unit
moves freely, was also rebuilt, and operates correctly.?
Speeds are from the ebay chart I bought.
The HSS tools I grind are based upon lots of videos I watch. I
bought a jig to help get the angles correct. My carbide are
inserts, many are still the original chinesium, but are being
replaced by higher quality as they die. I use a Boxer quick
change toolpost.
Now, here is where I feel the problem
lies since I do not have the power to make deep cuts:?
I use a link belt on the motor. It slips
especially as oil gets on it. The bearing in the drive unit
slings oil. The drive belt to the lathe head is a serpentine
auto belt. It seems to transfer power efficiently. The drive
unit is mounted on channel so it's adjustable.??
I am wondering about switching to an auto
v-belt for the motor. Next, could the channel be flexing? It is
the kind used to support conduit.
Thanks,
Steven
Get
What sort of carbide are you using? I've never had good luck
with the 0 degree rake brazed carbide. I hear that it wants to
run really fast.
On 6/25/23 14:24, Brandon Corey
wrote:
0.002” is way too low. ?I run
0.015”-0.020” at a minimum for the hardest materials.
?Material? ?Speeds? ?What size is your motor?
Brandon
I have a simple question. How deep of
cuts do you normally make?
I have a 1949 vintage SB9C, with 6 speeds. I
replaced the 1/4 hp motor with a 1/2 HP one. I use
carbide a lot, but HSS still gets used some. Many
of the videos say I should take at least a 0.005"
cut for the best finish. I usually cannot take
more than 0.002" with dragging down, or stopping,
the spindle.
What's reasonable for me?
Thanks, Steven
|
.050 should be obtainable on a SB9.
If the belt is slipping, you should try to increase the tension
first. Link belts are usually not a problem. Disconnect the belts
and confirm that the spindle turns freely. Large diameter work is
more likely to cause slipping due to the torque required. Try back
gear for large diameter work.
On 6/25/2023 4:13 PM, Steven Schlegel
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Wow. Lots of questions. One fact is
really obvious. My machine operator pair should take cuts 10x
deeper than I am.
The lathe head and all associated gearing
is good. It was recently rebuilt and all pins, etc. were
replaced correctly. Of that I am pretty certain. The drive unit
moves freely, was also rebuilt, and operates correctly.?
Speeds are from the ebay chart I bought.
The HSS tools I grind are based upon lots of videos I watch. I
bought a jig to help get the angles correct. My carbide are
inserts, many are still the original chinesium, but are being
replaced by higher quality as they die. I use a Boxer quick
change toolpost.
Now, here is where I feel the problem
lies since I do not have the power to make deep cuts:?
I use a link belt on the motor. It slips
especially as oil gets on it. The bearing in the drive unit
slings oil. The drive belt to the lathe head is a serpentine
auto belt. It seems to transfer power efficiently. The drive
unit is mounted on channel so it's adjustable.??
I am wondering about switching to an auto
v-belt for the motor. Next, could the channel be flexing? It is
the kind used to support conduit.
Thanks,
Steven
Get
What sort of carbide are you using? I've never had good luck
with the 0 degree rake brazed carbide. I hear that it wants to
run really fast.
On 6/25/23 14:24, Brandon Corey
wrote:
0.002” is way too low. ?I run
0.015”-0.020” at a minimum for the hardest materials.
?Material? ?Speeds? ?What size is your motor?
Brandon
I have a simple question. How deep of
cuts do you normally make?
I have a 1949 vintage SB9C, with 6 speeds. I
replaced the 1/4 hp motor with a 1/2 HP one. I use
carbide a lot, but HSS still gets used some. Many
of the videos say I should take at least a 0.005"
cut for the best finish. I usually cannot take
more than 0.002" with dragging down, or stopping,
the spindle.
What's reasonable for me?
Thanks, Steven
|
Hows your spindle bearings ? Have you done the test by using a
rod through the spindle hole & lifting the rod to see what
your clearances are ? Whats your finished product look like ? Like
everyone else says you should be able to do better than your
getting right now . I've been using HSS inserts from H R Warner
for years now & I have absolutely no problem getting 0.030
& sometimes more in most things except for some mystery metal
I have ended up using . I'm using a regular v-belt on the
countershaft motor to large pulley , & a composite flat belt
on the cone pulleys . See if theres a industrial belting company
in your neck of the woods & visit them & have them make
you a belt . I think I paid 10 bucks for mine . The oil on your
belts does need to get fixed somehow .
animal
On 6/25/23 8:32 PM, Mike Poore wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
.050 should be obtainable on a SB9.
If the belt is slipping, you should try to increase the tension
first. Link belts are usually not a problem. Disconnect the belts
and confirm that the spindle turns freely. Large diameter work is
more likely to cause slipping due to the torque required. Try back
gear for large diameter work.
On 6/25/2023 4:13 PM, Steven Schlegel
wrote:
Wow. Lots of questions. One fact is
really obvious. My machine operator pair should take cuts 10x
deeper than I am.
The lathe head and all associated
gearing is good. It was recently rebuilt and all pins, etc.
were replaced correctly. Of that I am pretty certain. The
drive unit moves freely, was also rebuilt, and operates
correctly.?
Speeds are from the ebay chart I
bought. The HSS tools I grind are based upon lots of videos I
watch. I bought a jig to help get the angles correct. My
carbide are inserts, many are still the original chinesium,
but are being replaced by higher quality as they die. I use a
Boxer quick change toolpost.
Now, here is where I feel the problem
lies since I do not have the power to make deep cuts:?
I use a link belt on the motor. It
slips especially as oil gets on it. The bearing in the drive
unit slings oil. The drive belt to the lathe head is a
serpentine auto belt. It seems to transfer power efficiently.
The drive unit is mounted on channel so it's adjustable.??
I am wondering about switching to an
auto v-belt for the motor. Next, could the channel be flexing?
It is the kind used to support conduit.
Thanks,
Steven
Get
What sort of carbide are you using? I've never had good
luck with the 0 degree rake brazed carbide. I hear that it
wants to run really fast.
On 6/25/23 14:24, Brandon Corey
wrote:
0.002” is way too low. ?I run
0.015”-0.020” at a minimum for the hardest materials.
?Material? ?Speeds? ?What size is your motor?
Brandon
I have a simple question. How deep
of cuts do you normally make?
I have a 1949 vintage SB9C, with 6 speeds. I
replaced the 1/4 hp motor with a 1/2 HP one. I
use carbide a lot, but HSS still gets used some.
Many of the videos say I should take at least a
0.005" cut for the best finish. I usually cannot
take more than 0.002" with dragging down, or
stopping, the spindle.
What's reasonable for me?
Thanks, Steven
|
Link belts used to be, and I assume still are, very stretchy indeed, when compared with a modern cut edge (and maybe notched) V belt, which have negligible stretch, and indeed, shrink in length if they get hot due to slipping (good feature, that one). On one hand link belts have the benefit that on such as a pillar drill with cone pulleys, you can stretch them enough to change speeds without slackening the adjustment. On the other hand, you cannot use them at anywhere near the power of a non stretchy one. Many years ago I tried to run a long link belt to drive a single cylinder compressor at low speed. It would only get over TDC for about the first 10 minutes after taking one or more links out. On that particular job, I gave up on belts as it was impossible to fit an endless one without taking the flywheel off an engine and fitted a chain drive instead. (For anybody interested, Dorman 2DWD engine in a 20/28 HP Simplex 2' gauge locomotive. The only available auxiliary drive is the pulley that normally drives the fan, mounted on the camshaft end, and tightly sandwiched between the flywheel and crankcase. I replaced the pulley with a sprocket to drive the compressor and mounted a pulley and sprocket on the compressor so the fan still went round.)
There are, so far as I know, 2 sorts of link belts. The old style held together with rivets or similar. The rivet heads sit deeper in the groove than a normal V belt, and while they are designed around the groove standards for new pulleys without bottoming out, the rivets tend to sit on the bottom of the groove once the pulley becomes a bit worn. At that point, friction disappears almost entirely. You can either get a new pulley or deepen the bottom of the groove to refresh the clearance. The other sort, of which I hasten to add, I have no experience, uses a T shaped extension of each link as the joining component. If you are trying to run link belt over a flat belt pulley, skidding and probably also pulley damage is highly likely.
Many years ago, British Rail trains were fitted with a lot of link belts on Diesel Multiple Units, driving the likes of fans, exhausters and dynamos. We also had them as a stores item to replace the V belts on loco hauled coaches and the trailer cars of DMUs that had axle driven alternators. These coaches were fitted with a spare set of normal V belts under a cover on the axle pulley, and you used those once the new ones fitted at each wheelset change expired. When the reserve set expired (I think the pulleys were 6 row) you had to resort to link belts unless you could find another excuse for taking the axle down to slip a set of endless belts (and spares if you had any sense) over the end.
Anybody who had a legitimate cause for walking the track, as I did when on call for breakdowns back in the late 70s / early 80s, could collect miles of the dam stuff that had fallen off trains.
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Show quoted text
------ Original Message ------
From: "mike allen" <animal@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Monday, 26 Jun, 23 At 04:45
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Depth of cuts
Hows your spindle bearings ? Have you done the test by using a rod through the spindle hole & lifting the rod to see what your clearances are ? Whats your finished product look like ? Like everyone else says you should be able to do better than your getting right now . I've been using HSS inserts from H R Warner for years now & I have absolutely no problem getting 0.030 & sometimes more in most things except for some mystery metal I have ended up using . I'm using a regular v-belt on the countershaft motor to large pulley , & a composite flat belt on the cone pulleys . See if theres a industrial belting company in your neck of the woods & visit them & have them make you a belt . I think I paid 10 bucks for mine . The oil on your belts does need to get fixed somehow .
animal
On 6/25/23 8:32 PM, Mike Poore wrote:
.050 should be obtainable on a SB9.
If the belt is slipping, you should try to increase the tension first. Link belts are usually not a problem. Disconnect the belts and confirm that the spindle turns freely. Large diameter work is more likely to cause slipping due to the torque required. Try back gear for large diameter work.
On 6/25/2023 4:13 PM, Steven Schlegel wrote:
Wow. Lots of questions. One fact is really obvious. My machine operator pair should take cuts 10x deeper than I am.
The lathe head and all associated gearing is good. It was recently rebuilt and all pins, etc. were replaced correctly. Of that I am pretty certain. The drive unit moves freely, was also rebuilt, and operates correctly.
Speeds are from the ebay chart I bought. The HSS tools I grind are based upon lots of videos I watch. I bought a jig to help get the angles correct. My carbide are inserts, many are still the original chinesium, but are being replaced by higher quality as they die. I use a Boxer quick change toolpost.
Now, here is where I feel the problem lies since I do not have the power to make deep cuts:
I use a link belt on the motor. It slips especially as oil gets on it. The bearing in the drive unit slings oil. The drive belt to the lathe head is a serpentine auto belt. It seems to transfer power efficiently. The drive unit is mounted on channel so it's adjustable.
I am wondering about switching to an auto v-belt for the motor. Next, could the channel be flexing? It is the kind used to support conduit.
Thanks,
Steven
Get
What sort of carbide are you using? I've never had good luck with the 0 degree rake brazed carbide. I hear that it wants to run really fast.
On 6/25/23 14:24, Brandon Corey wrote:
0.002” is way too low. I run 0.015”-0.020” at a minimum for the hardest materials. Material? Speeds? What size is your motor?
Brandon
I have a simple question. How deep of cuts do you normally make?
I have a 1949 vintage SB9C, with 6 speeds. I replaced the 1/4 hp motor with a 1/2 HP one. I use carbide a lot, but HSS still gets used some. Many of the videos say I should take at least a 0.005" cut for the best finish. I usually cannot take more than 0.002" with dragging down, or stopping, the spindle.
What's reasonable for me?
Thanks, Steven
|
On Sunday, June 25, 2023 at 04:13:48 PM EDT, Steven Schlegel <sc.schlegel@...> wrote:
Wow. Lots of questions. One fact is really obvious. My machine operator pair should take cuts 10x deeper than I am.
The lathe head and all associated gearing is good. It was recently rebuilt and all pins, etc. were replaced correctly. Of that I am pretty certain. The drive unit moves freely, was also rebuilt, and operates correctly.?
Speeds are from the ebay chart I bought. The HSS tools I grind are based upon lots of videos I watch. I bought a jig to help get the angles correct. My carbide are inserts, many are still the original chinesium, but are being replaced
by higher quality as they die. I use a Boxer quick change toolpost.
Now, here is where I feel the problem lies since I do not have the power to make deep cuts:?
I use a link belt on the motor. It slips especially as oil gets on it. The bearing in the drive unit slings oil. The drive belt to the lathe head is a serpentine auto belt. It seems to transfer power efficiently. The drive unit is mounted
on channel so it's adjustable.??
I am wondering about switching to an auto v-belt for the motor. Next, could the channel be flexing? It is the kind used to support conduit.
Thanks,
Steven
Get
What sort of carbide are you using? I've never had good luck with the 0 degree rake brazed carbide. I hear that it wants to run really fast.
On 6/25/23 14:24, Brandon Corey wrote:
0.002” is way too low. ?I run 0.015”-0.020” at a minimum for the hardest materials. ?Material? ?Speeds? ?What size is your motor?
Brandon
I have a simple question. How deep of cuts do you normally make?
I have a 1949 vintage SB9C, with 6 speeds. I replaced the 1/4 hp motor with a 1/2 HP one. I use carbide a lot, but HSS still gets used some. Many of the videos say I should take at least a 0.005" cut for the best finish. I usually cannot take more than 0.002"
with dragging down, or stopping, the spindle.
What's reasonable for me?
Thanks, Steven
|
Link belts stretch terribly, both long term and elastically. ?Also, depending on type, if the V pulleys or belt are significantly worn on the cheeks, the rivets can bottom out on the grooves of the pulleys, which pretty well eliminates the friction necessary for power transmission. ?Use an endless V belt. ?It is only worth using link belts either if you can double them up where doubling would not otherwise be necessary, or you have a big movement on the belt tensioner, preferably with self adjustment e.g. by the weight of the motor hanging on it. ? Eddie
?
------ Original Message ------
From: jkling222@...
To: [email protected]
Sent: Saturday, March 16th 2024, 20:22
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Depth of cuts
? On Sunday, June 25, 2023 at 04:13:48 PM EDT, Steven Schlegel <sc.schlegel@...> wrote: ? ? Wow. Lots of questions. One fact is really obvious. My machine operator pair should take cuts 10x deeper than I am.
?
The lathe head and all associated gearing is good. It was recently rebuilt and all pins, etc. were replaced correctly. Of that I am pretty certain. The drive unit moves freely, was also rebuilt, and operates correctly.?
?
Speeds are from the ebay chart I bought. The HSS tools I grind are based upon lots of videos I watch. I bought a jig to help get the angles correct. My carbide are inserts, many are still the original chinesium, but are being replaced by higher quality as they die. I use a Boxer quick change toolpost.
?
Now, here is where I feel the problem lies since I do not have the power to make deep cuts:?
?
I use a link belt on the motor. It slips especially as oil gets on it. The bearing in the drive unit slings oil. The drive belt to the lathe head is a serpentine auto belt. It seems to transfer power efficiently. The drive unit is mounted on channel so it's adjustable.??
?
I am wondering about switching to an auto v-belt for the motor. Next, could the channel be flexing? It is the kind used to support conduit.
?
Thanks,
Steven
?
What sort of carbide are you using? I've never had good luck with the 0 degree rake brazed carbide. I hear that it wants to run really fast.
? On 6/25/23 14:24, Brandon Corey wrote:
? 0.002” is way too low. ?I run 0.015”-0.020” at a minimum for the hardest materials. ?Material? ?Speeds? ?What size is your motor?
?
Brandon
?
?
?
I have a simple question. How deep of cuts do you normally make?
I have a 1949 vintage SB9C, with 6 speeds. I replaced the 1/4 hp motor with a 1/2 HP one. I use carbide a lot, but HSS still gets used some. Many of the videos say I should take at least a 0.005" cut for the best finish. I usually cannot take more than 0.002" with dragging down, or stopping, the spindle.
What's reasonable for me?
Thanks, Steven
?
?
|
Some belt slippage is good? it can prevent a hard crash . How
much slip , well that is different for each machine . I can't give
any input on the link belt as I am running a V-belt that my
machine came with? . If yer belt adjustments are all good you
should be able to take a depth cut that corresponds to to the
chart ya got on Ebay . Sounds like maybe ya should come up with
some kind of shield to keep the drive unit clean of oil ? I don't
have a problem with oil on my drive setup .? Can't say anything
about the question of the channel flexing , we don';t know what
kind of channel yer using .
animal
On 3/16/24 1:22 PM, john kling via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Sunday, June 25, 2023 at 04:13:48 PM EDT, Steven
Schlegel <sc.schlegel@...> wrote:
Wow. Lots of questions. One fact is really obvious.
My machine operator pair should take cuts 10x deeper
than I am.
The lathe head and all associated gearing is good.
It was recently rebuilt and all pins, etc. were
replaced correctly. Of that I am pretty certain. The
drive unit moves freely, was also rebuilt, and
operates correctly.?
Speeds are from the ebay chart I bought. The HSS
tools I grind are based upon lots of videos I watch. I
bought a jig to help get the angles correct. My
carbide are inserts, many are still the original
chinesium, but are being replaced by higher quality as
they die. I use a Boxer quick change toolpost.
Now, here is where I feel the problem lies since I
do not have the power to make deep cuts:?
I use a link belt on the motor. It slips especially
as oil gets on it. The bearing in the drive unit
slings oil. The drive belt to the lathe head is a
serpentine auto belt. It seems to transfer power
efficiently. The drive unit is mounted on channel so
it's adjustable.??
I am wondering about switching to an auto v-belt
for the motor. Next, could the channel be flexing? It
is the kind used to support conduit.
Thanks,
Steven
Get
What sort of carbide are you using? I've never had
good luck with the 0 degree rake brazed carbide. I
hear that it wants to run really fast.
On
6/25/23 14:24, Brandon Corey wrote:
0.002” is way too low. ?I run
0.015”-0.020” at a minimum for the hardest
materials. ?Material? ?Speeds? ?What size is your
motor?
Brandon
I
have a simple question. How deep of cuts
do you normally make?
I have a 1949 vintage SB9C, with 6
speeds. I replaced the 1/4 hp motor with
a 1/2 HP one. I use carbide a lot, but
HSS still gets used some. Many of the
videos say I should take at least a
0.005" cut for the best finish. I
usually cannot take more than 0.002"
with dragging down, or stopping, the
spindle.
What's reasonable for me?
Thanks, Steven
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