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So some of this is being overthought.? If you have a good motor don't worry about overheating it.? My 16" has a 3hp motor just like it came with.? It does have an industrial cast iron frame motor

The point isn't just torque. Reduced RPM will reduce the air flow through or around the motor and the motor will overheat unless you install a separate cooling fan for the motor.? Also, the

Eddie has it exactly right. Power is the product of torque and speed, and cutting engineering says that material removal rate is proportional to power. Anecdote: My 1 HP dc drive is totally inadequate

But you don't want constant torque at all speeds. ?The whole point is, you want MORE torque as you reduce the speed. ?Lower speeds are used for machining or drilling bigger diameters. ?Applying a

specs on the VFD are telling me this; " Yes, a variable frequency drive (VFD) can maintain constant torque at any speed" If that is true, doesn't it eliminate the low speed torque concern?

The problem is that the pulleys give you a speed reduction and torque amplification. To run your motor that slow and to expect the torque you need you will most likely overheat it. For light stuff it

Why eliminate the step pulleys?? To just simplify the whole shebang.? I know changing the belt to another speed is quick and easy, but why have to do it at all if you can get around it?? You see, I

Keep the belt and pulleys. The VFD won't give you the same low-speed torque as the belt and pulleys. When you slow down the motor with a VFD, so does the cooling fan. Unless you add some kind of fan,

Don't do that! ?The speed change pulleys don't just change speed, they maintain constant power so you get more torque at low speeds. ?You wouldn't try to start your car from traffic lights in top

I'm not sure why you would want to do that. ?I run my SB13 on a VFD, and use that for most speed changes, but I do change the belt occasionally. ?You would also have to rig something up to hold the

Has anyone eliminated the undercarriage step pulleys on a heavy 10L by using a VFD and motor to drive one of the spindle pulleys directly?

A change of circumstances means I need to sell my 9a lathe, I'm not sure how many folks here are from the UK, but I thought the decent thing to do would be to offer it here first before heading to

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q77vIrbdJWs animal

FWIW In the files section are copies of the 3rd edition, the 56 edition and the 58 edition. Jim B,

Al: I do have that book. Agreed that it is a goldmine. jack

Great Jack, you are back on the go again. I keep a notebook with sections for each machine in my shop. Each one includes info I need to know but might have forgotten…… lubrication type, setups,

Al: Thank you for the suggestion. It turns out that the problem was where it usually lies - with me. Instead of feeding with the half nut lever, I was feeding with the clutch knob. Several years

Just a thought here….. are you withdrawing the thread cutting tool while running the leadscrew/carriage to its start position? If not, the slop on the geartrain/leadscrew/half nut might be putting

My SB10k has a gitts oil cap on the very left side, plus I add some oil to where the leadscrew exits the QCGB. My metric system has 2 gitts oil caps on the top.

SB 9A Cutting a thread using the method of engaging the lead screw, running forward, stop, running in reverse without disengaging, repeat. Running forward goes smoothly. Running in reverse flips the