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Selling Sabre 34 mk1
Selling my Sabre Youtube video and link to yacht world ad: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PypRZC8mOwQ
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Rebedding old (aluminum frame) fixed ports
10
I have removed a leaky fixed port on my 38-1 for re-bedding. It¡¯s the original style with the aluminum frame on the outside as discussed below. I have also read the ¡°Instructions to Rebed Sabre 28 Main Cabin Windows¡±. I would like to do the job following the factory guidelines but am unsure of a few procedures. 1. There is no mention of glazing vinyl or gaskets, but my window clearly has at least two. One poster said he bought 3/16 glazing vinyl #D752. Another mentions acquiring window molding from Catalina Direct. I¡¯m pretty sure I recall Phil Horn stating he researched, purchased and installed the original material and even attached a photo of it during his glass replacement. However, I am unable to find that post. I am hoping those who have experience with this project can shed some light (no pun intended) on the correct products and where to acquire them. And, Phil, if you are following, please respond. 2. The bead of caulking on the outside of the window and the aluminum frame is described as a silicone bead on the factory instructions for the 28. The bead on my windows is rather wide and ugly. It¡¯s silver/gray after all these years, and I¡¯m unsure if it¡¯s original. I¡¯d like to use a smaller width bead of black silicone against the glass and the frame for a much neater look and a bead of white around the frame and the surrounding cabin top wall. I¡¯m thinking a 1/8¡± bead, maybe even a 1/16¡± bead which is about the thickness of the frame, but I¡¯m not sure if the thinner bead would compromise the seal. I¡¯m open to suggestions. 3. One poster recommends Permatex Windshield Sealer and details the procedure he followed very carefully. I¡¯m wondering how the Permatext has been holding up in the harsh marine environment. 4. I¡¯m also considering painting or powder coating the frame and eventually all the frames. I¡¯ve used Interlux Perfection Hatteras Off White on my overhead hatches and the color matches the gelcoat nicely. Again, any advice or alternatives would be appreciated. Don Fleming Duet S-38-1 #77 Hudson River toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
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I have a Fairclough cover I've used for my S28II and all the stuff you need to use it, bought in 2016. It still has years of life but it's too much for me to handle now. It's at Savin Haill Yacht Club, 400 Morrissey Blvd, Dorechester MA. Let me know off list if you'd like to come get it. It would work with a mark I as well. In pic it's the one to the left. (elizabeth.rhodes@...). Fair winds, Elisa
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How many are still around?
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Was perusing around Facebook and craigslist today, and I noticed quite a few older ads for scrapped and decommissioned/scrapped Sabre 28s. It got me wondering, how many are still out there? Of the 588 (correct me if that numbers wrong) how many do you think are still functioning. Is this tracked anywhere? I don't think there is any way to know, but would anyone have an estimate/supposition of how many of the Sabre 28s are still in the water sailing? -- Aaron R Sabre 28-2 Hull 308
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Couple of items
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1. My 34-1 has a small metal tray under the floor board just aft of the mast step. It fits perfect in the opening and I am pretty sure it came with the boat originally. Anyone know its function? 2. I reconditioned all of the seacocks except the cockpit scupper seacocks. The last time I descended into the stern lazarette I had a hard time getting out, lol. My oldest son is a little bit smaller than me and a whole lot stronger, and he has volunteered to recondition them. I reached hard into the stern lazarette and didn¡¯t make contact with the lever. In the case that these seacocks must be closed I was thinking of adding a pipe extension to the handle, allowing me to reach them. Anyone tried this or have other suggestions? Thanks, Dave G Serenade 1983 S34-1 #184 NB, Canada
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Handrails leaking?
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Hi all, can the handrails cause leaking? I re-bedded both rails with Butyl Tape, and was expecting through bolts to secure them. Instead, they were screwed on. Do the screws go all the way through? The fiberglass roof liner blocks the view. thanks, Mike -- Michael Henning 1985 S36 Caper Allen Harbor, RI
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I have replaced the lift pump and associated filters. New fuel line too. Before I restart the engine, does the system need to be purged of air? According to the manual, it is a self-bleeding system. But I am not sure and I may be over thinking it. Any advice or conventional wisdom before I attempt a restart? Thanks, Chris.
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Hi, folks, I just finished installation of a Raymarine AIS-700 and the Raymarine passive GPS antenna, the GA-200. I have the VHF radio (a Standard Horizon GX-2100) also connected to the AIS-700 which has its own internal antenna splitter. The GA-200 antenna is mounted in an ideal location high up on the dinghy davits with a clear view of the sky. Its cable is connected to the AIS-700, NOT directly to the MFD. The AIS-700 is connected to the Seatalkng network. I booted up the MFD and assumed that I would see either the AIS-700 or the GA-200 as an alternate GPS data source, but it only lists the internal GPS of the MFD. On the chart, the well-populated satellite list, boat location and AIS target list are all correct. Everything seems perfectly copacetic. The MFD is a Raymarine eS98 running Lighthouse 3. All the other data sources (wind, speed, AP control unit etc) are correct. I checked and rechecked the GA-200 cable connection to the AIS unit. I also disconnected the GA-200 cable from the AIS-700 and connected it directly to the appropriate port on the back of the MFD. Same result: the GA-200 did not appear as a GPS data source. Before I start laboriously dismounting the GA-200 to test continuity, here is my question: is what I'm seeing (or not seeing) the result of the fact that the GA-200 is a passive antenna meant only to boost the signal to the internal MFD processor? So that the MFD does not consider it a separate data source? May thanks for patiently wading through this. Carter Brey Tartan 40 "Lyra" City Island, NY
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Naviionics & B&G Zeus MFD
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I just inserted a new Navionics micro Sim card into my Zeus touch screen MFD and all I am seeing are the shoreline course detail- no normal navionics data. All other Navionics cards work fine. Is there some new activation step I am missing? Thank you. John Lubimir s/v Passage S452
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Does anyone have any good ideas for storing a Kayak on deck while underway? She's a 1989 -S24. We currently keep it roughly amidships at the shrouds, inside the lifelines. See pic. Was thinking of getting or making an attachment to the stanchion tubes and putting it more forward... No room on the davits as the dinghy takes up all of that space below, and they're getting solar on top of them...
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Just looking for some guidance. Working on tuning the rigging on my 402 after this years launch. I have a LOOS gauge and would like to know what are the optimum values for tensioning the stays. Any ideas or guidance would be appreciated. Thanks Mike Sabre 402 #37 Lake Ontario. _._,_._,_
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I'm about to start life on a 1988 Sabre 38 MK II. A gem of a boat with the stern boarding ladder. Yet, that system is not ideal if you want to bring gear, groceries, etc. on board. I want to get a sturdy ladder which would be set at the boarding gate between the stanchions. Towards the front of the cockpit there is a boarding gate between the stanchions, where you can unhook a short section of the lifelines to walk through, where a fold-down ladder should seem to go. Scanmar makes a system I would think works but wanted to see if anyone had a better idea. Thanks.
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Hi Under the sink in my sabre 32. 1986 , I found a seacock that I think is missing a handle . Can I still check to see if it is functioning by moving the outer nut with a wrench or would it be better to buy a handle for it. At this point the boat is going to be launched soon and I'm not going to replace the seacock although maybe that is the best solution. Not sure what brand this is. Thank you. Gary W sabre 32
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Rigging
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Just looking for some guidance. Working on tuning the rigging on my 402 after this years launch. I have a LOOS gauge and would like to know what are the optimum values for tensioning the stays. Any ideas or guidance would be appreciated. Thanks Mike Sabre 402 #37 Lake Ontario.
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426 Balmar AltMount belt kit - wrong crank pulley adapter
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We have the 105A alternator, and have been collecting belt dust every season, intended to tackle this a couple years ago but never got around to it. Ordered the AltMount adapter kit, specified my engine (4JH4E). The crank pulley adapter is completely the wrong part. It is both too large in diameter, and is drilled for 4 holes instead of the 3 holes on the installed crank pulley. Direct call to Balmar service has not (yet) resulted in a fix. I find that the Balmar kits for other variants of the 4JH engine appear to ship with a smaller 3 hole crank adapter, I¡¯m waiting for a response from Balmar/Dometic. ¡ªNeil neil dot e dot russell at gmail.com ¡°Whisper II¡± S426-034 Salem MA
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Cleaning prop
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My propeller (3 blade autoprop) is covered with smallish barnacles. What is the best way to clean the prop: scraping and sanding is tedious. Would a wire wheel in a drill end up scratching the surface and encourage growth? Is a flapper wheel in a drill a better approach? Other great ideas? Thanks!
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Wow, never heard of anyone losing a shaft log. To me the critical part of the replacement is getting the tube aligned with the strut. If your work with the hole saw is accurate, it will be easier. In any case, I think using the shaft (wrapped in wax paper where it exits the hull) as an alignment tool is the way to go. In the process, if you bolt the coupling to the engine, make sure the mounts are mid range so there's room for alignment when you're done. -- Phil Horn S34 #67 Huntington, LI, NY
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Preventing kelp from blocking the raw water intake
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A few days ago White Rose took me from San Francisco Bay to Santa Barbara. There's nothing to beat repeated 10 knot surfs on a broad reach in a steady force 6 whilst feeling the boat perfectly balanced and sure footed. Our SOG for most of the voyage exceeded 8 knots with only double reefed main and staysail hoisted. What a great sail and what privilege to own such a wonderful yacht. I entered the anchorage at 4 am and dropped the hook planning to enter the harbor in daylight. Unfortunately, some of the joy of the voyage was soon lost when, while weighing anchor that afternoon, I noticed a loss of engine power and white smoke and very little water from the exhaust. A huge wad of kelp was lodged in the intake extending along the entire length of the hose to the raw water filter. What a PITA to sort out. I'd like to fit a through hull strainer so that this doesn't happen again. Any recommendations regarding type, material and brand? (Groco makes both a bronze clamshell shaped grating and a scoop shaped strainer.) Any downsides to fitting one of these? Tim Tim Sowerby White Rose S426 Sausalito CA
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Our cabin sole near the mast step and the transition between from the main cabin to the vee birth is getting damaged by water running down the mast. I know this topic will never end but I wanted to pass on a quick fix for the root cause of the problem and a question on solution. When I bought our boat in 2010 it had water damage around the mast step but not catastrophic, The sole was wet on the underside and getting some delamination. I removed the mast step, scrapped out wet wood and then applied epoxy on the underside of the sole. Very messy job. The problem has come back. My mast drain is clear. What i didn't realize until now is that when the boat is heeled, sailing or just high wind at the dock, water weeps out of the side where the mast sits on the step. I sealed this with the very sticky tape that is used for heat shrink covers. Leaked has stopped!. Sole is drying out. The sole looks fine but I know underneath it is not. I was thinking of cutting out the section that has been damaged and then glassing the underside or just saturate it with resin. Then reinstall it with some trim teak trim to cover the seams. Has anybody tried this? Any thoughts on how to make neat cuts? Boat is launched and ready to sail Mid lake water temp is 38F! But the ice is gone. Cheers! Bob S42 Vitesse Lake Ontario
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The new LFP batteries are on board and getting connected today, along with a MultiPlus and Orion. Solar in the next week. In reading the user¡¯s manual for the batteries it recommends if there were to be a fire involving the batteries to ¡°use a Class D extinguisher, sand or a dry powder extinguisher.¡± I have multiple dry powder A/B/C extinguishers. Out of curiosity, does anyone with LFP batteries have a Class D extinguisher on board? A quick search seemed to indicate LFP were a Class B type due to containing liquid electrolyte while Class D extinguishers were for metallic lithium and not for LFP batteries. The copper extinguishing agents used in some Class D were specifically not recommended for LFP batteries. Sodium chloride Class D extinguishers were silent on LFP¡¯s. Am trying to anticipate what issues the insurance underwriters may raise, and if by getting the proverbial ducks lined up may improve the process. Thanks, Brian Escapade S426 CT / LIS
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Sat 8:39am
Sat 8:39am