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If anyone is interested, Epoch LFP batteries are now 15% off through Sunday, April 27. Several on the list were considering making the change, including myself. I have ordered batteries, a new MultiPlus II and an Orion 12/12-30A to charge the start battery from the LFP house bank. I had planned to make the LFP change next winter, or later, but current events accelerated that decision. https://www.epochbatteries.com/ I believe [have not confirmed] my start battery is isolated from the house bank with its own on/off switch in the cockpit locker right above the battery. It is charged via a 20+ yo PathMaker. Have people wired a manually switched method of connecting the start battery to the house load to have at least nominal house power if there is a total house battery / BMS failure? Or is this an unwarranted concern? Thanks, Brian Escapade S426 CT / LIS

Has anyone rebed the stanchions on their 362? Based on moisture readings, I know some are leaking, and want to stop it soonest. How to access the outboard fasteners? What needs to be removed? Other considerations. Thanks Ed -- SV Enigma, Sabre 362 #199 Lake Erie @ Sandusky, OH

Hi all, Does anyone have a referral for a Surveyor near Kennebunkport? Is Gene Barnes still doing surveys and if so would he travel that far? Bill Akins S30 #85 Stained Blue Chicago

Oops that was for Bill not Mitch, sorry guys! -- Allison S426 Kingfisher SF Bay/Pacifc Northwest

A bird must have made off with the wind vane on my Garmin GWS 10 wind transducer. It is completely missing. Does anyone have a Garmin wind vane kicking around that they would be willing to part with? Any alternative suggestions are welcomed. -- Alan Therrien S/V Miss T 1982 Sabre 34 Mk II

I have an 1983 S34 MK1. I’d like to replace my 2 high profile deck hatches and my ports need new screens. I’ve never like the plastic ports…always seemed incongruent with the Sabre build level. But the thought of replacing them; nope. Anyone have any idea what the make of the hatches are? I’m guessing the old style frame and hinges rules out replacing the hatch without the entire frame. And does anyone know where I can get replacement screens for the cabin ports? Scott Goldwyn Verano Hudson River

Reflecting on age, health and changing priorities, we were debating putting Solace on the market. She spent last year on the hard while we rebuilt our cottage, sold the house and adjusted to retirement after a half century of intensely high pressure careers (labor and employment attorney and nursing director.) It’s not fair to sideline a beautiful thoroughbred that’s been part of our family for 22 years. The demand for a survey by BOAT US/Geico as a condition of renewal last week was the tipping point. I spoke to GEICO and explained that the boat was in secure land storage and asked for alternatives or a 12 month waiver of the survey. They were polite but inflexible, then offered to continue the current policy through the current term without the survey. I thanked them for the kind offer of the sleeves from their vest. The rep was still confused when I thanked her for her time and ended the conversation. Once I get Solace cleaned up and inventoried, more will follow. Pete Solace, 1988 30 Mk III

Good morning, all. I've done a forum search for a propane conversion on a 34-2 Targa, but haven't found a thread I thought I'd seen before. Can anyone confirm that 6 pound tanks will fit in the lockers in a 34-2 Targa? I've found some comments on the net suggesting that they will, but no photos. -- 1990 Sabre 34-2 Aft Cabin "Ingalina" Bath, ME

I have removed a leaky fixed port on my 38-1 for re-bedding. It’s the original style with the aluminum frame on the outside as discussed below. I have also read the “Instructions to Rebed Sabre 28 Main Cabin Windows”. I would like to do the job following the factory guidelines but am unsure of a few procedures. 1. There is no mention of glazing vinyl or gaskets, but my window clearly has at least two. One poster said he bought 3/16 glazing vinyl #D752. Another mentions acquiring window molding from Catalina Direct. I’m pretty sure I recall Phil Horn stating he researched, purchased and installed the original material and even attached a photo of it during his glass replacement. However, I am unable to find that post. I am hoping those who have experience with this project can shed some light (no pun intended) on the correct products and where to acquire them. And, Phil, if you are following, please respond. 2. The bead of caulking on the outside of the window and the aluminum frame is described as a silicone bead on the factory instructions for the 28. The bead on my windows is rather wide and ugly. It’s silver/gray after all these years, and I’m unsure if it’s original. I’d like to use a smaller width bead of black silicone against the glass and the frame for a much neater look and a bead of white around the frame and the surrounding cabin top wall. I’m thinking a 1/8” bead, maybe even a 1/16” bead which is about the thickness of the frame, but I’m not sure if the thinner bead would compromise the seal. I’m open to suggestions. 3. One poster recommends Permatex Windshield Sealer and details the procedure he followed very carefully. I’m wondering how the Permatext has been holding up in the harsh marine environment. 4. I’m also considering painting or powder coating the frame and eventually all the frames. I’ve used Interlux Perfection Hatteras Off White on my overhead hatches and the color matches the gelcoat nicely. Again, any advice or alternatives would be appreciated. Don Fleming Duet S-38-1 #77 Hudson River toggle quoted messageShow quoted text

Before I purchase a tube of seacock grease I thought I would check with the forum on the possibility of using a tube of NLGI Grade 2 Lithium grease that I have hanging around. This is a medium density non-hydrocarbon grease. I also have a tube of Lewmar Geargrease made with Calcium Sulphonate. Thoughts? Thanks, Dave G Serenade 1983 S-34-1 #184 NB, Canada

I am stripping and varnishing all the brightwork on my 362 and am considering removing the factory installed plastic fillet where the caprail meets the deck. It's a mess after years of use and several prior efforts to varnish without good clean-up. I imagine that it's opening up a can of worms so I thought I'd ask you folks what you've discovered if you've done this work yourselves? Was it bonded with 5200? Remove with a heatgun or chemical stripper? Thanks, Tom Malone Sabre 362 #173 Port Townsend, WA

We have a 1981 34 hull #113 and are going to redo our cove stripe. The "S" had been missing so I have nothing to duplicate. I was wondering if anyone knows of a template I could use? What are the dimensions of the "S"? Judy Ambrosius

Hi All, I just removed a Martec 16”diameter, 12” pitch folding prop. It’s in great shape, just replace the 4 cotter pins (original included) and you are good. Coming off a Sabre 36, 1” shaft, RH thread. $200 shipped to you (Conus). -- Michael Henning 1985 S36 Caper Allen Harbor, RI

On my 362 there’s a space between the hull and the refrigerator that would benefit from better insulation. I was thinking of making a hole (or two) in the bottom of the food storage bin, located above this space, and squirting insulation foam inside this space. I was wondering if anyone has done this, what their results were, what type of foam they used, and how much? Thank you, Jay “Elizabeth Belle” #212 -- Jay Flynn “Elizabeth Belle” Sabre 362 1999 #212