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Thanks Tim, Dave Serenade 1983 S 34-1 #184 NB, Canada

Dave, Also Canadian here eh! I just did this job recently. I used loctite clover lapping and grinding paste (280 grit) - Spartan is 320 grit The grease I used is Quicksilver 2-4-C marine

BTW, that white vinyl also cleans up really well with acetone. I use it every year on the rubrail & dorades, looks like new with minimal effort. I also wax it after it's clean. Phil Horn S34

I was able to tape a piece of paper taut over the logo and gently use a pencil sideways to get the outline of the shape. Lay this onto a piece of vinyl, grab a razor blade and bada

Maybe find someone with a cricut machine or Etsy custom? I had a friend make my logo because I just have a 6” width machine and that has held up perfectly after 4 years. It’s pretty easy to do

Reviving this. vinylapproach.com does not seem to have the files. Did anyone find someone with a file to cut the "S"? Glen still has but yes, real gold ans $334.86 -- Dave Short SV One Timer 1997

Unfortunately, ordering on the Spartan website does not accommodate Canadian shipping addresses and there seems to be no Canadian retailer for Spartan Seacock Grease that I can find. I can purchase

David - I just did all of the Seacocks on my boat, and I used the Spartan grease. ?I read this article ( https://marinehowto.com/servicing-tapered-cone-seacocks/ ) and everything in it made sense to

https://www.spartanmarine.com/all-products/seacock-maintenance [email protected]> wrote:

I'm not an expert, but if you have the original Spartan bronze seacocks, I will say that the Spartan grease is quite thick - thicker than any other grease I have used. Dave Castor Port Angeles,

Before I purchase a tube of seacock grease I thought I would check with the forum on the possibility of using a tube of NLGI Grade 2 Lithium grease that I have hanging around. This is a medium

Hi All, I just removed a Martec 16”diameter, 12” pitch folding prop. It’s in great shape, just replace the 4 cotter pins (original included) and you are good. Coming off a Sabre 36, 1” shaft,

Hi Carter, thanks for the info. I'm doing something similar. It'll be interesting to see, what if any, improvement there is. Regards Michael Sterling Ph. 252-646-9610 [email protected]> wrote:

The one way you can definitely determine if there is any cracking is to have die penetrant testing done. In my previous life, i had my certs for non-destructive testing (die pen / mag particle /

ABYC-13 isn't much of standard -- and it theoretically applies to all types of lithium batteries and not specifica to LFP.? Mostly it says, "follow the manufacturer's recommendations", put in

I'm not anti Mastervolt, I just think Victron is better equipment. On some of the new boats we have delivered there have been several glitches right out of the box. Allison Lehman Swiftsure

Mike, I can't really say how thick the existing insulation was because I took an extremely conservative route. I did not remove any of the existing fiberglass fridge box beyond drilling 1/4" holes in

Allison, Great suggestions. That was essentially what the underwriter I spoke to indicated: they wanted to know / see how the installation was made. A “professional” detailed report /

Use a small very sharp profile scraper and gently work at it. As latitude said, tedious work. I noticed on mine there are numerous valleys running directly adjacent to the toe rail from overly

One more comment to add. There are ABYC standards for LFP. I suggest those of you who have LFP already, if professionally done, get drawing by your installer. If it is a DIY find some one to draw