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I'm not anti Mastervolt, I just think Victron is better equipment. On some of the new boats we have delivered there have been several glitches right out of the box. Allison Lehman Swiftsure Yachts

Mike, I can't really say how thick the existing insulation was because I took an extremely conservative route. I did not remove any of the existing fiberglass fridge box beyond drilling 1/4" holes in

Allison, Great suggestions. That was essentially what the underwriter I spoke to indicated: they wanted to know / see how the installation was made. A “professional” detailed report / description

Use a small very sharp profile scraper and gently work at it. As latitude said, tedious work. I noticed on mine there are numerous valleys running directly adjacent to the toe rail from overly

One more comment to add. There are ABYC standards for LFP. I suggest those of you who have LFP already, if professionally done, get drawing by your installer. If it is a DIY find some one to draw them

I was able to clean mine using a small home made scraper and sandpaper. Tedious work but looks so much better. [email protected]> wrote:

Interesting idea to skim coat anyplace that can't be cleaned up. Thanks, Tom Malone Sabre 362 #173 Port Townsend, WA

Thank you, your knowledge is so helpful. I agree, if that is part of the rubrail extrusion I shouldn't mess with it and try hard to clean mine up. I'll start with Barkeepers Friend and then use

For what it's worth, we installed a Frigoboat Keel Cooler refrigeration unit in 2023. No alteration to the insulation of the 41-year old ice box. We set yjr temp to 40? and it maintains a steady

Removing it seems like opening a real can of worms. I wonder if some careful mask taping and skim coating with 3M4000UV might help -- Rob McCarthy, 1995 #Sabre362 ?#362Sabre hull 158 “Windhover”

As Peter said the "fillet" you describe is probably part of the bathtub, which seals the hull/deck joint & is part of the rub rail. I would leave it alone, the toe rail needs to be removed to replace

Hi Stephanie- There may be a piece of an old broken bolt that is protruding enough to block the track from sliding freely. My track had been repaired in the past by putting in a new bolt adjacent to a

Bill, I spoke with an insurance underwriter at my insurance carrier and they will cover LFP conversions, on a case by case basis, though do have some base line requirements: US battery manufacturer

Not positive about the 362, however if the deck joint detail is similar to earlier Sabres that “fillet” may be part of vinyl section running under the toe rail and including the outer rub rail.

Maybe of interest.... https://ca.renogy.com/renogy-195w-shadowflux-anti-shading-n-type-solar-panel/ SV Arrow , S34/1 Campobello Island

I am stripping and varnishing all the brightwork on my 362 and am considering removing the factory installed plastic fillet where the caprail meets the deck. It's a mess after years of use and several

Hi All, Continuing this thread as I don’t recall another on a related subject. I ordered the tides track and due to Joe Cleary’s suggestion tried removing the top of the mast which worked better

Further to my last reply and now I have a little more time, I wouldn't go wireless. We see far to many problems with both the Raymarine and B&G versions. Signals coming down from the old DMI MHU are

I'm following up on this project from Jan of 2024, as I'm starting to upgrade my 35 year old refrigeration! I've read the previous comments from Jay & Carter as well as the original from Matt. Do

While it often sounds like an infomercial, the latest video from Sailing Uma does have some information on solar panel construction and some innovative ideas from a new company. For those considering