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I was able to clean mine using a small home made scraper and sandpaper. Tedious work but looks so much better. [email protected]> wrote:

Interesting idea to skim coat anyplace that can't be cleaned up. Thanks, Tom Malone Sabre 362 #173 Port Townsend, WA

Thank you, your knowledge is so helpful. I agree, if that is part of the rubrail extrusion I shouldn't mess with it and try hard to clean mine up. I'll start with Barkeepers Friend and then use

For what it's worth, we installed a Frigoboat Keel Cooler refrigeration unit in 2023. No alteration to the insulation of the 41-year old ice box. We set yjr temp to 40? and it maintains a steady

Removing it seems like opening a real can of worms. I wonder if some careful mask taping and skim coating with 3M4000UV might help -- Rob McCarthy, 1995 #Sabre362 ?#362Sabre hull 158

As Peter said the "fillet" you describe is probably part of the bathtub, which seals the hull/deck joint & is part of the rub rail. I would leave it alone, the toe rail needs to be removed to replace

Hi Stephanie- There may be a piece of an old broken bolt that is protruding enough to block the track from sliding freely. My track had been repaired in the past by putting in a new bolt adjacent to a

Bill, I spoke with an insurance underwriter at my insurance carrier and they will cover LFP conversions, on a case by case basis, though do have some base line requirements: US battery

Not positive about the 362, however if the deck joint detail is similar to earlier Sabres that “fillet” may be part of vinyl section running under the toe rail and including the outer rub rail.

Maybe of interest.... https://ca.renogy.com/renogy-195w-shadowflux-anti-shading-n-type-solar-panel/ SV Arrow , S34/1 Campobello Island

I am stripping and varnishing all the brightwork on my 362 and am considering removing the factory installed plastic fillet where the caprail meets the deck. It's a mess after years of use and several

Hi All, Continuing this thread as I don’t recall another on a related subject. I ordered the tides track and due to Joe Cleary’s suggestion tried removing the top of the mast which worked better

Further to my last reply and now I have a little more time, I wouldn't go wireless. We see far to many problems with both the Raymarine and B&G versions. Signals coming down from the old DMI MHU are

I'm following up on this project from Jan of 2024, as I'm starting to upgrade my 35 year old refrigeration! I've read the previous comments from Jay & Carter as well as the original from Matt. Do

While it often sounds like an infomercial, the latest video from Sailing Uma does have some information on solar panel construction and some innovative ideas from a new company. For those considering

I didn't read this thread, so maybe I'm duplicating what's already here, but here is what I know: DMI Marine website is : http://www.dmimarine.com/ Website is still working, but not sure for how much

Bumping to confirm that the damper disc part number for the 362 with Yanmar 3JH2E + KBW10-E is 177099-03500. The original 1300hr disc looks fine, but with all of the trouble to R&R the transmission,

Don’s photo of the dodger clearly shows why panels should be oriented fore and aft. In that photo if the panels were oriented athwartship both panels would be shaded with their production severely

Hi Don, I have read some people have used 4 mm polycarbonate as a backing and asked Ocean Planet about it, even going to 6 mm. They said not to do it and further they would not honor a warranty

Jorgen: Allison’s comment reminded me of an upholstery shop that does custom work on classic & modern cars, has worked on boats, and does a fair amount of commercial & residential work. Try Carthom