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P. Regarding question #1: I own 139H. Most everything is original, including the headlight system. It still works fine going on almost 5 decades of use. I have no plans to make any changes. Jeff

I have a 1977 lotus Esprit S1 , Signal Red gelcoat 199H in "PRESTINE CONDITION" Although everything is working as it should. I am researching in the event the single headlights motor should show any

Yes it is with the motor. You have to disassemble the motor to remove the switch. It is part of the wiring plug on the motor.? ?Thanks,?Gene

It’s all part of the motor, one of the easier parts in the Esprit to get at.. perhaps not. Some would say the wiper motor was suspended in space and the car built around it. Dave C

I looked at SJ and I don’t see it listed separately and it doesn’t seem like it’s part of the steering column switch so is it integral with the motor? Thanks, Gordon.

Hi Gene, I picked up one from either SJ or Rimmer Brothers in the UK. Cheers Steve

Does anyone know where I can get a park switch, motor with switch or anything else that will help. The motor runs fine on High and low but will not park . It appears that when the switch changes it

Hi Dave You were quite right – see tunnel photo – in fact there were two ties! Thanks again Sent: 28 January 2025 15:38 To: [email protected] Cc:

Many thanks – I’ll check tomorrow John Sent: 28 January 2025 15:38 To: [email protected] Cc: [email protected] Subject: Re:

I have used stainless steel for mine as it is more durable than aluminum I have found. Jon ________________________________ Sent: Tuesday, January 28, 2025 12:24 PM To:

The brake vacuum pipe that runs through the tunnel on my car is steel.? ?Mine is pretty corroded, so making another.? ?Had anyone used anything other than steel for this pipe?? ? Aluminum or

I believe there are some cable ties in the middle below the shifter that you’ll need to remove. Dave C

Hi It looks like I didn’t explain myself too clearly. I have already removed the engine and the actual fittings to the oil cooler and I did think that the pipes would then just pull through

<john.mrozik@...> wrote: The flexible lines can become bonded to the grommets. Just cut the grommets to aid removal, they should be replaced anyway. -- Paul

You don't mention any heat. NO heat . NO remove NOTHING. kroil alone NOT gonna happen. Been there done that. [email protected]> wrote:

A few ideas for those seized oil cooler fittings. (Yes, I have damaged a couple in my years of Esprit work.) Use a *better* penetrant than WD-40. *Kroil* is a well-known brand. You can make your own

Have fire extinguisher neer for safety. Heat the Nut with a propane torch. Like one you would use for plumbing. Be patient. Heat for 5 minutes let it cool for 5 minutes. Repeat the process 3 or 4

Hi all I have to replace the oil cooler pipes but having a problem removing them from the chassis box - they seem to be stuck - are there any hidden fixings somewhere? Many thanks

The question then, is: Has anyone who has run the *123 distributor* for a substantial time, "torn down the distributor" to see if oil has been leaking INTERNALLY? I know SOME people have had the 123

I put one in a Turbo Esprit but I still need to go back and pull the cover now that it’s been running a while to see if it’s leaking at all. The oil seal thats in question though is not the oring