开云体育

I believe they are all 20A for North America. Murray

Anyon know what size fuse it takes. Someone is asking on the LotusTalk forum. I assume it is one of the 2 in the glovebox.? Correct me if I am wrong. -- Rich F '79 JPS #040 '95 S4s ...SHF63000

Rich, AND NEW PISTONS. The longer STROKE crank will push the stock 2.0 liter rod & piston combination higher up the bore, poke it 'out' of the top a little ways, and the pistons will collide with the

Wondering what is needed in switching a 2.0 engine to a 2.2 other than new crank and new crank bearings -- Rich F '79 JPS #040 '95 S4s ...SHF63000

Thanks to everyone for those thoughts. One (likely minor) point I did not mention is that I am operating a domestic spec car in NA so it does not have the federal spec engine bay fan etc. I will shop

Local boiling is troublesome when present in significant measure, however these engines are very well engineered in every fundamental sense including cooling. The claimed benefit from Evans is

I don't know that I completely agree with that statement. My understanding was that the water in a conventional system can boil locally near the hot spots, like around pistons. That causes the

I too chose SPAL, found a pair that could be fitted into the OEM plastic shroud without much fuss. x 2 on Bill's wiring advice, concur with Paul on coolant.

Waterless coolant is frequently misunderstood. It's not a miracle product. It does not cool as well as conventional coolant. If your cooling system is not already up to the job, waterless coolant

Ian, I used Spal fans when I rebuild my cooling system. It requires more power, so I ran a 10 ga. wire to the front for the fans, as they pull many amps. I could look up the specs for the fans that

Folks, Last year I re-cored my radiator as part of an engine-out rebuild and I found a noticeable improvement in cooling - as long as the car was moving - but still found cooling marginal when stuck

I have a new eccentric hub for the cam belt tensioner and find its OD greater than the ID of a crank seal housing of unknown origin. Any insights? Thanks Steve

?I’ve been told by Jay at JAE probably in the last year or so that they had both rebuild kits as well as new units ($500 or so, basically a wash compared to SJ). They might be a good stateside

Yeah, the nightmares are coming back to me. One of the big problems sometimes is getting that U-joint off, so soak it in penetrating fluid a couple days before you start if you can. The best

The UK community have identified the firm Kiley-Clinton as known for refurbishment of our racks. FWIW, link attached. https://kileyclinton.com/ Cheers Steve

A couple of more points.? As Bill mentioned it is a bit of a challenge to align the bolts with the nut plates on reassembly especially if you have new rubber clamp bushes. To make reassembly much

I rebuilt mine last year.? Be sure to get the shims back in same place and mark position of rack on the mounting structure as I recall there is some up and down adjustment. The really stupid thing I

Yeah, it’s a real fun job to get that rack out, and back in… NOT. I’ve attached several pictures that I have, but did not generate. I probably got them out of the Files section, and my first

Thanks Dave, should I assume you need to pull the rack out to rebuild it? -Skip [email protected]> wrote:

The inner tie rod ends are actually part of the steering rack. the Lotus specialists do you have rebuild kits available but it’s not as simple as just putting on a new tie rod end. Dave C