开云体育

I run one and have had no problems. Works great, just a little pricey. ?Gene

Ok, so quick update Ready to replace my 23d because of the leak. Here is a photo of what I ordered. The 123 ignition and it's been mapped by barry spencer as it's the unit he sells. It has a single

Thank you.? ?I'll leave it as is for now.? ?Not a big deal to fix or change them later.? ?That's a relief about the Anti Roll Bar.? ?It's a pain to install!

Hi Shane. Don't change course in regard to the tie rod ends until you've proven they'll be problematic. It's always possible that our aftermarket sources provide bits in need of tinkering but I'd be

So I've just installed the rebuilt steering rack, and the tie rods hit the sway bar at full lock.? ?I've read that the sway bar has a right side up and upside down, but when I put this thing on the

I want to correct what was reported at the start of this thread in regard to where the residue was evident. In fact it was present in the main bearing saddles as the attached pic shows. Not the sort

Hey Tim that's greatly appreciated! It's well understood how matters of greater importance demand we turn our attention to them from time to time. I've been busy going through a dry sump pump

Steve, Sorry, I'm a little late to the game, but life has gotten in the way. The blob of silicone sealant (RTV) in the bottom of the bore in the front of the cam is supposed to be there. Dig it out

Looks like someone was “buzzing off” [Okay, you have to be REALLY old to get that obscure reference] Sent: Thursday, January 16, 2025 6:44 PM To:

Residue on cams somewhat more cooked to brown, rather than golden.

This has become more intriguing than expected. The cams have been extracted without harm of any sort but the amount of force required was weird, in terms of both torque to turn cam and hammer blows to

Oh boy, it's a dumbass moment for me this time. I'd failed to notice the cam itself pinched in the vice jaws! Doh! It's been easy getting this done once I'd realized that. Keeps one humble. Thanks

The crude clop of RTV is pretty common. There is a grub screw installed with RTV in the front of the cam to seal the opening. The cam shaft is drilled through for oil and then sealed with that screw.

I am in the process of removing cams from Turbo/HC cam housings and perplexed at why the 1st is stubbornly refusing to budge. The cog wheel and snubber are removed and the thrust plate retaining bolt

Thanks indeed Tim! So I would want the Hylomar in a not too viscous form, so as to work with the method described. Some of the formulae are described as paste, and my ancient and faded memory of

LOTUS 9XX Cylinder Liner Install: The liner fit into the block's "spigot bores" (the holes in the block that the liners fit into) is very snug. A finger press fit... usually referred to as a

wigl, I like Hylomar Universal Blue (the old/vintage spec stuff) and Hylomar AF (the modern/ current version). Neither ever cures hard. It seals very well, but remains softish/ squishie. If it's

It's a 910 bottom end, new iron liners. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=972 The engine is being updated in a number of areas, a comprehensive rebuild using mostly new

Which Hylomar? The original 907 engine called for Hylomar Universal Blue. In modern speak, that would be Hylomar AF. In later 9XX engines, like the 910 turbo, Hylomar 3400 Anaerobic Sealant was

Hello folks, I'm asking for advice on quantity of Hylomar that would be sufficient for sealing the iron liners as I assemble the engine. Looking at 80ml tubes, x ??? Thanks Steve