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Toaph, The Vacuum Advance and Centrifutal Advance are beyond the typical owner's reach to change. It can be done, but if you have to ask how, you're not up to the task... and the task is beyond the

Gents, I plan on doing a cam pulley upgrade soon. I think I can just flip the exhaust cam, and I have a C pulley from a JH for the intake, and have 115 MOP for both intake and exhaust. I thought I'd

Interesting point about specifying settings for emissions rather than performance.? I will definitely be taking timing readings and recording them with the corresponding anecdotal findings.? Since

Something else to keep in mind is that the WSM has specs for what Lotus had to do to get the engine to pass emission standards in the colonies. It wasn’t necessarily proving for the best running

So for what it's worth, my 2 cents. Yes, the distributor will easily pop out when the clamp is loosened as it is spring-loaded and and on a dog drive rather than the more familiar helical gear. As to

Well, yes, it is a bit of trial, but you are also using a timing light to figure out where it is, and when you advance it a couple degrees, what happens. It’s called science ? Take notes of what

I am running electronic ignition.?? A friend in college once told me, "You don't need a timing light.? Take it out and step on it.? You'll know if the timing is right or not."? Sounds similar to

Toaph, The vacuum pot on the distributor is actually a vacuum retard, not a vacuum advance. It retards the timing when you close the throttle, making the air clean enough for birds and butterflies…

I am checking the timing on my federal S1, and I need some tutoring.? I know how to use a timing light, but I don't have any practical experience with it.? The attached image shows where it's

Greetings Fellow Esprit Owners; The San Diego Lotus Club is hosting this year’s West Coast Lotus Meet over the 4 day weekend 20 - 23 October 2022. That date is coming up quickly. And so is the end

False alarm. I guess he hadn't taken the distributor out to inspect it. Appears that the disk with the magnets was damaged. I think he also ha s wiring issue, since the 12 volt red wire running to the

Bill, If he won't read voltages, he probably won't read resistances either. But ask him to remove the wires from the two small spade terminals on the coil, then measure the resistance between the two

I'm trying to help someone out with what sounds like an ignition issue. Stumbling and misfire under load, and on hills and acceleration once the car is hot. He has a Lumination Magnatronic, which I

I didn’t mean to come off as complaining about the price of $21 to ship a cam pulley from the UK. I thought it was pretty reasonable. I was just throwing it out as a data point in the conversation

It's 2022, and the world is in a rather different place than where we found it 10 years back. Perhaps our friends in the U.S. are well sheltered by way of so many merchants offering transport free of

I think we can bring this topic to a close as I started undoing the connections between the little black oil tube and the sending unit, I discovered that the last coupler at the sending unit is a

Parallel male thread into tapered female, or tapered male into parallel female, not tapered into tapered. Parallel to parallel with a sealant or mechanical seal. I tend to use a low strength loctite

1/8 BSP would have been my guess but I haven’t checked. Remember that BSP threads come in 2 styles BSPP and BSPT. P for Parallel threads and T for Tapered threads. Parallel threads would seal

I think the thread on the connector that is on the engine is 1/8 BSP.

Tim,?Thanks. I'll give it a go although my expectations are not great. I live in the middle of the Puget Sound region nearby all the major hardware stores. The last time I was in my local store I