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I've had only intermittent time slots to continue working on the boxcar kit, so the Great Plains Northern fab guys have been AWAL. Perhaps some have been celebrating the Chinese new year (surviving

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Matt, Thanks for listing those ways of combining CD drives and files with the newer methods of transfer. I tried transfering using a Ethernet cable that I had been using at the studio but I need to

Stephen I hope you'll consider taking notes, pictures, etc. of this project and share 'em here. This kind of "How I Did It" type stuff is always a good read and inspirational, too! Mark in Oregon

That 2-8-0 looks great; as does the water tank behind it! Kit, or scratch-built? Mark in Oregon

Back in my straight DC days, I installed a constant lighting board that permitted the numberboards on my S2 switcher to be on for both forward and reverse along with the headlight and backup? for the

Hi All, I bought two # 6 turnouts (R/H + L/H) each from both Tamalco as well as Empire (4 total). I thought staining everything first would be best, then glueing down the ties onto a short piece of

It's practically a lost art.? Back in 1917, Santa Fe took their ten 2-10-10-2's and rebuilt them into twenty 2-10-2's. Rich G(ajnak)

It's awesome how the railroad shop rebuilt locomotives in the age of steam! Many who saw the 2102 on last summer's NASG excursion would have been astonished to learn about this. Bud, you are often a

Hi Stan -- This is an easy diagram to understand. Thanks for posting. I seem to recall that the motor is an essential ingredient in the circuit, or you have to use a "ballast" resistor. Am I

[image: CL diodes.JPG] Stan Stokrocki

Hello Bud, and Thank you for bring this up. Attached are two pages of quick reading about the I-10 to T1 conversion by the Reading shops. The first is from ; Steam Locomotives of the Reading and P&R

I took this out of a locomotive I was working on and failed to note where the leads went. Would someone who knows more electronics than I do (It won't take much) please advise where the leads to the

Opinions have always varied on the best type of track gauges. For the three-point gauges, one plus is that it is guaranteed to gauge perpendicular across the track where a flat gauge might get held

I like using the 3 point on curves as is automatically broadens the gauge. If used on tangent track the gauge will be within the nominal range. Tommy [email protected]> wrote:

Matt, The NASG track gauge is a better alternative. It’s quicker and easier to use and it gives you the flexibility to measure flangeways and wheel tread. The NASG Store - S Wheel and Track

Not sure if this is a well known fact amongst non Reading fans and modelers, but the prototype T1’s were built from ex I class 2-8-0’s. Frank Titman’s model was built using the AF plastic

Greetings. I finally have my turnouts ready to glue to the FastTracks tie strips. I'm wondering if the straight across gauge and three point gauge have different uses, such as straight vs curved

If you build a four foot module with a 40 inch height, the legs can be attached and fold up within the module for transport.? A module with a 42 inch height, no go.? I don't understand why S and O

Well, a GP35 is 56'2" coupler to coupler.? A GP38-2 is 59'2" coupler to coupler. Rich G(ajnak)