That's a good source for those
magnets.? (The wife wants some too!)? In a couple of places, on
curves, I've positioned the standard? Kadee under tie magnets only
some time later find that either I've changed wheelsets, couplers
or whatever and they won't work all the time.?
Since I've already done my scenic work,
I don't want to do that kind of 'earthwork' again.? Has anyone
gone in later and just added those to 'help' out?
On Sun, Feb 16, 2025 at 10:43 AM, Thomas Stoltz wrote:
I believe the unaltered 802 spacing is at least .156” if not more.? IIRC you do some doctoring to achieve your spacing, which I must admit is not much of a difference.? I also mentioned pricing though.
Tom, I'll grant you the price differential.
?
I don't doctor anything.? My 802's are set up using the existing locations for SHS cars and lining up the the center mounting hole on the Kadee pocket with the PRS and AM mounting holes.? I'll grant passenger cars are a slightly different matter due to the sharpness of my curves.
?
Either way, the distance between cars loos fine to me, it's not something spend a lot of time I worrying about.
I’ve been using American Models four wheel passenger trucks on mine: ?I’ll let others comment on their appropriateness. I have a bunch that I don’t need.
I recently picked up a nice group of Kinsman Express Reefer kits.? i had a few others built in my collection, but not so great.? i am looking forward to putthing these together.? ?Alas, they came without trucks.? ?does anyone have some express trucks they want to sell?? i don't care if they are scale or hirail or just trucks.? i got wheels :)? ? ?Please let me know, and we can strike a deal.? ? THANKS
I recently picked up a nice group of Kinsman Express Reefer kits.? i had a few others built in my collection, but not so great.? i am looking forward to putthing these together.? ?Alas, they came without trucks.? ?does anyone have some express trucks they want to sell?? i don't care if they are scale or hirail or just trucks.? i got wheels :)? ? ?Please let me know, and we can strike a deal.? ? THANKS
< Is 3/32nds of a real inch really worth worrying about >
?Hi Rusty, the first time I encountered the 208 coupler is when a friend brought over his AM smooth side NYC passenger set.? Compared to my AM PRR smooth sides with #5s it wasn’t a calibrated eye sort of thing.? It was a jump right out at you sort of thing.? He went home and converted to #5s.
I believe the unaltered 802 spacing is at least .156” if not more.? IIRC you do some doctoring to achieve your spacing, which I must admit is not much of a difference.? I also mentioned pricing though.? Taken from today’s Kadee website, with 2 pair per package, the difference in cost is $4.80… that is a difference I can see.
As a side note, I considered your difference in spacing of .09375” and compared it to some other show stoppers.? I was quite surprised, the difference in rail height is .038”.? According to some people, that difference is what held back the popularity of S for the past 70 some years.? Then there is the difference in flange, depth taken from the NASG S-4 Standard of, .065”.? Which is interesting because when I compare a SHS Hi-rail flange with a SHS scale flange I get a difference in depth of .031”.? I have to look really hard to see the difference when a car is on the track.? Can’t say I notice the flange depths at all.
Here's a blog post from someone I know on how he sprays craft paints.
Pieter Roos
On Saturday, February 15, 2025 at 01:21:33 PM EST, Mike Swederska via groups.io <mikesscale@...> wrote:
That’s a good explanation of technique. I just want to say that the biggest advantage of using water base is its ability to dry very quickly using a hair drier on every coat.?
Water dries by evaporation through air movement via the hair drier. Sure, a little heat is fine but not a lot.
Surface prep is the same as any model water base paint.?
Using a pill bottle to mix in has the same surface tension as most plastic models. Putting just several drop in the bottle and then start adding tap water a little at a time. Stir and then tilt the bottle for the paint to coat the inside and then watch how it leaves a coat on the wall.You’re looking for a consistent somewhat see through coat. Make sure there is no lumps or little bitty chunks that look like dirt specs. If so you need to start over as you may have not mixed the paint well enough before your pour.?
You will need to turn up your air to get the droplets to atomize.?
The glycerin is for some of the heavier pigmented paints. I use straight water on all the colors first.?
Have fun with it. I can talk to this subject all day but won’t.
Glycerine is a carbohydrate, not an oil.? I believe it is in a group of what are called "sugar alcohols".? It is completely soluble in water.? Google it!?? Google probably has a more succinct explanation than this
wobbly bodied, shaking hands, poor visioned, S-Scale, model building microbiologist can provide... ?.
BTW, I sent a private note to Mike S.? I would hardly call his Frisco model "just another boxcar" - really nice work Mike!
Jim Kindraka
Grand Rapids, MI
On Thu, Feb 13, 2025 at 1:51?PM Tom Lennon wrote:
I jest Mike, but isn't glycerine an oil? Is it water soluble?
I also watched a YouTube video that recommended using windshield washer fluid. Took me a couple of hours to disassemble the airbrush and clean out the solidified acrylic...but I'm still having fun.
Tommy?
--
Mike Swederska Meramec Valley Lines Modeling Mopac equipment in 3/16
https://www.youtube.com/@mikesscale3149
Don't let perfection get in the way of good enough! Keep model railroading fun!
? ? Sure the Kadee 802's do stretch somewhat under pulling, especially if nothing is?done to those?annoying centering?springs. I always slip a short length?of rod inside the spring, about half the length of the spring, that was Kadee's suggestion and that greatly reduces that sloppy stretch. My measurement of 3' (give or take a scale inch or so) was just?as coupled, not under stretch, but then again, I guess I should just?leave these discussions to the "experts"!
On Feb 12, 2025 at 7:43 PM, Stephen Kutash via groups.io <sjkutash@...> wrote:
I’m starting work on an EMD FL9. I’m using two undecorated American Models FP7’s and I’m looking to see if anyone has any brass EMD diesel F unit exhaust stacks. BTS no longer has them. I need two.
Thanks,
Steve Kutash?
Stephen J Kutash 203 906-5116 (Cell)
Re: For Sale - SMMW 44-ton Diesel Loco Phase I Kit
I don't normally spend a lot of time doing model railroad viewing, but the tour of Craig's Sn3 layout was an informative and enjoyable hour. His modelling is superb and I like the way he thinks about layout design and the hobby in general. The phrase "well done" is inadequate. Thanks for the link Brooks.
Jim Martin?
Craig Wright's presentation
of his C&TW Sn3 layout that was presented recently on a narrow gauge
forum is now available for viewing on YouTube:
I think it's fair to say Craig's layout is among the finest ever
built in any scale at any time in the history of our great hobby.? His
presentation is worth watching.? The layout is an inspiration.? Simply
stunning! Brooks Stover
That’s a good explanation of technique. I just want to say that the biggest advantage of using water base is its ability to dry very quickly using a hair drier on every coat.?
Water dries by evaporation through air movement via the hair drier. Sure, a little heat is fine but not a lot.
Surface prep is the same as any model water base paint.?
Using a pill bottle to mix in has the same surface tension as most plastic models. Putting just several drop in the bottle and then start adding tap water a little at a time. Stir and then tilt the bottle for the paint to coat the inside and then watch how it leaves a coat on the wall.You’re looking for a consistent somewhat see through coat. Make sure there is no lumps or little bitty chunks that look like dirt specs. If so you need to start over as you may have not mixed the paint well enough before your pour.?
You will need to turn up your air to get the droplets to atomize.?
The glycerin is for some of the heavier pigmented paints. I use straight water on all the colors first.?
Have fun with it. I can talk to this subject all day but won’t.
Glycerine is a carbohydrate, not an oil.? I believe it is in a group of what are called "sugar alcohols".? It is completely soluble in water.? Google it!?? Google probably has a more succinct explanation than this
wobbly bodied, shaking hands, poor visioned, S-Scale, model building microbiologist can provide... ?.
BTW, I sent a private note to Mike S.? I would hardly call his Frisco model "just another boxcar" - really nice work Mike!
Jim Kindraka
Grand Rapids, MI
On Thu, Feb 13, 2025 at 1:51?PM Tom Lennon wrote:
I jest Mike, but isn't glycerine an oil? Is it water soluble?
I also watched a YouTube video that recommended using windshield washer fluid. Took me a couple of hours to disassemble the airbrush and clean out the solidified acrylic...but I'm still having fun.
Tommy?
--
Mike Swederska Meramec Valley Lines Modeling Mopac equipment in 3/16
https://www.youtube.com/@mikesscale3149
Don't let perfection get in the way of good enough! Keep model railroading fun!