Re: Plastic paint striping
Mike,
Just a reminder...when I asked the guys at AM they told me that the FP40 paint was "MARS" paint and it could not be stripped !!
Ed
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On 5/21/2025 2:48 PM, Mike Swederska via groups.io wrote: Ed,
Haven¡¯t tried yet on a locomotive. But plan to soon on one of their box cars.
These are a pair of the Baldwin Centipede locos by Broadway Limited.
Mike Swederska
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Re: Plastic paint striping
Found it at kickass for $10.99
On Wed, May 21, 2025 at 12:03 PM, Mike Swederska via groups.io <mikesscale@...> wrote:
There have always been modelers asking what to use for stripping paint from plastic models. I have tried so many techniques using everything from brake fluid to Scalecoat stripper. I have been successful over the years using products such as Simple Green, Goof
Off and Isopropyl alcohol but everything is just a crap shoot hopping it will work.?
Awhile back I took on a plastic diesel job. Not to my liking but I wanted to help out a friend. He has two of the same locos that he wants painted and lettered. The issue is one was painted by some other painter that he tried and put the wrong colors on the
loco. The other is still in its factory paint scheme. I needed to strip both of them and start over. I tried all the usual stripping products and nothing touched either model. The 91% alcohol did soften and make sticky but really needed to soak forever and
scrub very hard to the point of damaging the model shell.?
I went to a hobby shop that is not really trains but cators to the plastic model guys and all the other stuff that is needed to keep them in business. They sold me a bottle of paint stripper for plastic, and I bought it with hesitation. It is called AK 185.
I read the reviews and everyone said it was nothing more than alcohol. They are wrong. This stuff really works.?
I keep 91% in a spray bottle and started with it first. Again, it would not touch what ever that first model was painted with or its decals. I tried a small spot inside the shell, and it darn near wiped the factory color off in one wipe. I used it on the aftermarket
paint and with a toothbrush I was able to get all the way down to the factory shell with not much work or worry. I then tried it on the next shell with just a factory paint job, and it removed all the lettering and color down to the shell by wiping it with
a paper towel.?
Just recently I used brake fluid on one of my own PRS box cars I painted over 20 years ago and destroyed it. Run fast, Run hard from using brake fluid. I wish I knew about this stuff then.
SKU: AK186
Paint Stripper 100ml
-- Mike Swederska
Meramec Valley Lines
Modeling Mopac equipment in 3/16
https://www.youtube.com/@mikesscale3149
Don't let perfection get in the way of good enough! Keep model railroading fun!
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The Rex gondola was a Southern Railway prototype. Here's a beautifully detailed example by my dear friend, the late Dave Felmley. All cast grab irons were ground off and replaced with real wire ones, steps are by Grandt Line (now San Juan) - perhaps the original cast ones had broken off - , a complete brake system was installed, a Mantua stamped brass brake wheel was used, and Kinsman trucks and Kadee 802 couplers were installed as running gear. These cars track well because the weight is close to the rails.
Just a couple years ago I saw one in MW service on the Wheeling & Lake Erie (Southern to NS to WLE would be the ownership route), so a few of these may still be around. It was coupled to a small crane being used for trackwork on the west end of the old Pittsburgh & West Virginia line, near Cecil PA.
The underframes were one part of a multi-part die, so they could be swapped out. Bob Werre is quite correct in that there were therefore four versions of the two car styles: AF and hirail/scale for the gondola, and the same for the flat car. Also attached is a picture of the unpainted flat car, AF version. I have a small supply of the AF-version flat cars; see me at the NASG convention if you would like one.
Jim Whipple Pittsburgh PA    
Sorry about jumping the gun on this,
but the Rex instruction sheet Bill references does indicate the
difference between the AF and scale versions if you pay close
attention.?
Bob Werre
Phototraxx
The Rex flatcar was my first scale
car I ever bought.? Eventually I was able to buy my first bottle
of Floquil black paint and some GN decals. I was pleased with
it's detailing and it till runs on the layout.
However, it's been years since I've
been 'hawking' used stuff from 0thers--but Rex actually made two
versions of both the flat and the gon.? The underbodies were
different--four cars total!? One version must have been for the
hi-rail version as the underbody was much more basic and suited
for AF trucks.? I don't recall the particulars.
Bob Werre?
From:?Corbin Bates
Date: Thu, 22 May 2025 01:52:51 PDT?
. . . I got a Gondola from a friend . . .?I
found it was made by REX . . .?The gon is fairly well
detailed for its time.
The NASG web site has the kit?.
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Sorry about jumping the gun on this,
but the Rex instruction sheet Bill references does indicate the
difference between the AF and scale versions if you pay close
attention.?
Bob Werre
Phototraxx
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The Rex flatcar was my first scale
car I ever bought.? Eventually I was able to buy my first bottle
of Floquil black paint and some GN decals. I was pleased with
it's detailing and it till runs on the layout.
However, it's been years since I've
been 'hawking' used stuff from 0thers--but Rex actually made two
versions of both the flat and the gon.? The underbodies were
different--four cars total!? One version must have been for the
hi-rail version as the underbody was much more basic and suited
for AF trucks.? I don't recall the particulars.
Bob Werre?
From:?Corbin Bates
Date: Thu, 22 May 2025 01:52:51 PDT?
. . . I got a Gondola from a friend . . .?I
found it was made by REX . . .?The gon is fairly well
detailed for its time.
The NASG web site has the kit?.
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The Rex flatcar was my first scale car
I ever bought.? Eventually I was able to buy my first bottle of
Floquil black paint and some GN decals. I was pleased with it's
detailing and it till runs on the layout.
However, it's been years since I've
been 'hawking' used stuff from 0thers--but Rex actually made two
versions of both the flat and the gon.? The underbodies were
different--four cars total!? One version must have been for the
hi-rail version as the underbody was much more basic and suited
for AF trucks.? I don't recall the particulars.
Bob Werre?
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From:?Corbin Bates
Date: Thu, 22 May 2025 01:52:51 PDT?
. . . I got a Gondola from a friend . . .?I found
it was made by REX . . .?The gon is fairly well detailed for
its time.
The NASG web site has the kit?.
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Re: Plug door improvements.
Which article?are you referring to? It is not referenced or attached.
On Thu, May 22, 2025 at 9:16?AM Pieter Roos via <pieterroos53= [email protected]> wrote:
I just ran into this article on improving an HO car, much of it is applicable to the AM plug door car (or adding plug doors to the standard AM boxcar if you want the rivets without using decal rivets).
We could use a source of steel ice hatches and a few other parts.
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I bought a group of abused cars I probably should not have. 1 of the best shape cars was a American Models Railbox that was missing a door. I did not have a list of parts I wanted to get from AM but that would have been easiest¡. ? So 5 hours of Solidworks and 4 prints later I got the door I wanted only to make sure it is facing the inside of the layout anyway. ? That was easy! ? ? ? Thank You,
Bill Lane
Modeling the Mighty Pennsy & PRSL in 1957 in S Scale since 1988
See my finished models at:
Look at what has been made in PRR in S Scale!
PRR Builders Photos Bought, Sold & Traded
(Trading is MUCH preferred)
?
***Join the PRR T&HS***
The other members are not ALL like me!
Join the Pennsylvania Reading Seashore Lines Historical Society
It's FREE to join!??
Preserving The Memory Of The PRSL ?
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From:?Corbin Bates
Date: Thu, 22 May 2025 01:52:51 PDT?
. . . I got a Gondola from a friend . . .?I found it was made by REX . . .?The gon is fairly well detailed for its time.
The NASG web site has the kit?.
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I just ran into this article on improving an HO car, much of it is applicable to the AM plug door car (or adding plug doors to the standard AM boxcar if you want the rivets without using decal rivets).
We could use a source of steel ice hatches and a few other parts.
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I bought the one right beside it at the S Spree. A piece of history.
Bruce Bogart
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So I got a Gondola from a friend for $20 that wasn¡¯t in its original box. Neither of us could figure out who made it at first. After I did some digging around the internet I found it was made by REX or some of you know them by Putt Trains. The gon is fairly well detailed for its time. Here are some pictures. The last two pictures are from the internet.
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Re: Plastic paint striping
Scalecoat is ¡°back in business¡± selling their plastic paint stripper and thinner ¨C only.
? I have used it recently. It is slow but works well. ? Thank You,
Bill Lane
Modeling the Mighty Pennsy, PRSL & Reading in 1957 in S Scale since 1987
See my finished models at:
Look at what has been made in PRR in S Scale! ? See my layout progress at:
Join the Pennsylvania Reading Seashore Lines Historical Society
It's FREE to join!??
Preserving The Memory Of The PRSL
?
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Re: Rail Joiners for S-Helper Flex Track
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Re: Rail Joiners for S-Helper Flex Track
I¡¯ve been using Atlas 2 rail track joiners. ?
?
?
They have two square dimples on the bottom that have to be removed or you have to carve a groove into the ties so rail does¡¯t peak at the joints. ?Feeder wires also fit in the sides at the bottom flange, so no need for special feeder joiners. ?
?
They have 4 raised (stamped) bumps on each side suggestive of bolts that once soldered and/or weathered look fine and the face of the ¡®plates¡¯ are proud of the side of the rail head like the prototype. ?I only wish they had 6 bolts per side.
?
Because I¡¯m a modern operation, I use these at turnouts, diamonds, and other places one finds joiners. ?Otherwise I have a good supply of Fox Valley joiners that slide onto the bottom flanges so things can look sort of like continuous welded rail.
?
Ben Trousdale?
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Re: Plastic paint striping
I thought my picture went with my post.?  Mike Swederska?
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On May 21, 2025, at 4:04?PM, Matt Hogan via groups.io <Matthew.Hogan1804@...> wrote:
? All,
Photo of quick test using 91% and 99% isopropyl alcohol on AM boxcar door track.? Have not tried using it on an entire AM boxcar nor AM loco.
?
?
Thank you,
Matt Hogan
-- Mike Swederska
Meramec Valley Lines
Modeling Mopac equipment in 3/16
https://www.youtube.com/@mikesscale3149
Don't let perfection get in the way of good enough! Keep model railroading fun!
|
Re: Plastic paint striping
All,
Photo of quick test using 91% and 99% isopropyl alcohol on AM boxcar door track.? Have not tried using it on an entire AM boxcar nor AM loco.
?
?
Thank you,
Matt Hogan
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Re: Plastic paint striping
Ed, You got me curious if it¡¯ll work on American Models paint. So I opened up a AM boxcar that was factory painted and just took a paper towel with a little bit of the stripper on it and wiped all the overspray off the inside of the car without hardly having an account to 10 for it to soak. so I believe that it probably will work satisfactory on a factory diesel shell. You may have to let it soak for a few minutes, but not very long and start scrubbing with a toothbrush.
If I may say, I use one of those stainless steel drywall mud pans. I use it to strip all the brass items with lacquer thinner, and the pan wipes out clean.  Mike Swederska?
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On May 21, 2025, at 3:06?PM, Chris Fauxturkey via groups.io <skogkatt007@...> wrote:
? Another possibility is ammonia. It is one of the best penetrants on planet earth, but takes time. As a for instance it will get every last bit of grit and gunk out of the crevices of an old style power steering pump reservoir, with lips and folds. Works MUCH better then acetone for that application even. But I soaked the thing for 24 - 48 hours.
Not sure if it's good for plastics. Use with caution. It will remove paint. But not necessarily all. I haven't had 100% success, but still considerable.
There also cleaning vinegar. Works to some degree.
The AK stuff is likely safe for all plastics, as it's intended use is Warhammer minis and such. All plastic for the last 25 years likely, or longer.
-- Mike Swederska
Meramec Valley Lines
Modeling Mopac equipment in 3/16
https://www.youtube.com/@mikesscale3149
Don't let perfection get in the way of good enough! Keep model railroading fun!
|
Re: Plastic paint striping
Another possibility is ammonia. It is one of the best penetrants on planet earth, but takes time. As a for instance it will get every last bit of grit and gunk out of the crevices of an old style power steering pump reservoir, with lips and folds. Works MUCH better then acetone for that application even. But I soaked the thing for 24 - 48 hours.
Not sure if it's good for plastics. Use with caution. It will remove paint. But not necessarily all. I haven't had 100% success, but still considerable.
There also cleaning vinegar. Works to some degree.
The AK stuff is likely safe for all plastics, as it's intended use is Warhammer minis and such. All plastic for the last 25 years likely, or longer.
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Re: Plastic paint striping
Ed,
Haven¡¯t tried yet on a locomotive. But plan to soon on one of their box cars.
These are a pair of the Baldwin Centipede locos by Broadway Limited.
Mike Swederska
--
Mike Swederska
Meramec Valley Lines
Modeling Mopac equipment in 3/16
Don't let perfection get in the way of good enough! Keep model railroading fun!
|
Re: Plastic paint striping
If you cast a wide net, it seems AK 186 is perhaps good but hasn't been perfect for everyone for everything.? I don't know if it is just alcohol like some claim.? It might be substantial alcohol but have some other things in it.? It is possible there is a misconception similar to some claims about some thinners where people think are just acetone or something but actually have more ingredients like retarders.
The aforementioned Amazon reviews are not only good to learn more but also mention OTHER options that people have had success with.
The company has a "how to use" YouTube and the comments there might also be instructive:
They have a "how to use" product guide PDF:
Interestingly, their YouTube video says it is "very important" to have soapy water at hand which they use, and also it seems clear water to rinse.? But these are not mentioned in the PDF.? They also mentioned another product in the video called "Perfect Cleaner" for cleaning brushes.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Wednesday, May 21, 2025 at 10:18:45 AM PDT, John Hutnick via groups.io <johnhutnick@...> wrote:
For anyone considering this, please go to Amazon and read all of the reviews before buying.? $16 for 4 ounces?? Amazon will sell you a 16 ounce bottle of 99% IPA for $8.34.? Walmart charges $30 for 4 quarts of IPA.? And Ace Hardware sells a gallon for $24.? For the price, I would buy the gallon and soak a model in a tank for a day or two.
I generally use a Waterpik to help remove paint after soaking.
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Bob Werre
Rick Naylor
Bill Lane
Corbin Bates
Ben
