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What bands are you operating on. Thanks. 73 [email protected]> wrote:

I’m not sure there is NO noise, but there are 40 of them in use in our data network and I’ve heard no complaints. They are $15 from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LCHTVCM and $40

We see linear supplies that waste half the power as heat and smps supplies that raise the noise floor noticeably. Can you detect any noise from the DROK? Their website isn't very technical. Amazon is

The acid test for all this is whether the Raspberry PI complains about under-volt. If the PI doesn’t complain, EVER, you are probably in great shape. Measuring the voltage at the PI makes sense.

This just in. I wonder how much noise it makes. 73 CNX Software: PiSugar S and PiSugar S Pro – Lower cost batteries for Raspberry

I have a Pi running as a dedicated hotspot using Hamvoip. I don't backup the microSD card, only the config files. I've had a few issues that I've created and easily restored from the last config files

Measure the voltage and current at your Pi, don't guess. And FYI, power supplies according to https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/hardware/raspberrypi/power/README.md require 5.1

FYI – I’m also testing the same setup at home, using my big 35amp switching supply. The USBBuddy (yes, 5V 3A) is not the problem, that I can confirm. All other variables being the same – 1ft

Had the same issue. Went to Anker USB cables. They use higher gauge power conductors than signal conductors in their cables. Available lots of places, including Amazon. -larry (K8UT)

Consider making the run from the battery as long as you can by repositioning the PowerWerx USB-Buddy close to the Pi. Use decent gauge wire between the battery and the USB-Buddy. Or consider using a

https://www.raspberrypi.org/products/type-c-power-supply/ slightly above 5 Vdc 73

Dave. Certainly 5.5v wont hurt the pi. But he has a voltage drop because his powerworex is only at max of 3a unit with the 3 ft cord.? Also what I would do if it were me. I would ohm out the 3 ft

I've done some evaluation of R-Pi power supplies and concluded they're basically all crap ;-)?? The white "official" ones still allow undervoltage errors to occur but they do tend to be better

How do you "up your output current" in this situation? Maybe raise the Voltage to get same power on a given conductor? 5.5Vdc won't hurt anything. Beware of smart USB sockets that limit power. 73

Hello Jeremy My first question is:? Where did you buy the USB cord? Also 5v 3a is right close to being not enough current for your pi-4. 4-5a would be better. I mean by the time it reaches your pi

why not combine a buck boost unit close to the pi keep all the Rfi in a cage/rf bag then you feed 12v to that less drop? Or hack up a higher watt c cable (Amazon Apple laptop charge cable for

Hi all in the group! Been doing lots of Google searches, and while years ago I found this kind of info for the old micro-USB cables, I haven't found similar information for USB-C - and I figure

When you connect to your IC7300 to your Raspberry Pi, do you: - See it's USB ports via the Linux command: lsusb - Do you have the right user/group permissions on the resulting serial ports per:

I am using usb 2 and not 3. I have tried every thing and no lock. I most say that when I used Qsstv ver 2 the rig was connected and I saw the freq on Qsstv. The moment I upgraded to ver 9.4.4 and

the fact that it does not work with some USB2.0 devices is the backwards compatibility issue. The USB3.0 booting issue is the Pi's firmware (not the USB3.0, but the BOOT firmware) does not support