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Re: Photo of my Sea Sprite+ in my ham shack


 

You CAN put a crystal set or a regen in a metal CAN (or box, haha). In fact, a regen probably should be in one, as should just about anything with an oscillator or that is very sensitive to outside influences (temperature/RF/etc, although metal isn't necessarily the only/right material for temp issues). Luckily, most of the radiation from a local oscillator is, well, local. However, a regen/super regen CAN radiate out into the ether via the antenna. That's why sometimes you'll see an RF amp in front end for isolation.??There's a similar issue with backwave that happens if you leave a transmitter oscillator running all the time instead of keying it, which isn't a problem with most simple transmitters (everything gets keyed).?For harmonics, though, a good output filter is important for transmitters and shielding can help with some maladies, again, I suspect, with mostly local issues at QRP and QRPp power levels. Receivers benefit from shielding, although there may be a point of diminishing returns. I think most, if not all, of the QRPME stuff is fine without additional shielding as it works well within expectations of fun, easy-to-make, straightforward, simple, usable kits that can be mastered by the average Ham. Heck, even my beloved Elecraft K1 has its shortcomings, and it's orders of magnitude more complicated than most things I build these days.?

As for crystal sets, I rarely use a bcb loop antenna. I like FT-114 toroids. They make a nice coil with relatively few turns of magnet wire with good enough "working" Q (I have never measured it) that I have been able to separate 10kHz stations. Toroids don't need shielding, but that also works the other way-- it won't be influenced by sitting in an Altoids tin or too close to a metal front panel, either. The pic I have attached is my toroid version of the famous Australian "Mystery Set" built in a hobby store Halloween decoration?. It works pretty well. I have a couple of different experimental toroid crystal sets built on plastic clipboards that work reasonably well (I've logged something like 9 states so far), some oatmeal boxes, some Morgan copies, I've used all kinds of detectors--foundry coke, razor blades, old tools, chunks of Ge, Si, (probably oxidized), galena, pyrite, a jillion other things, including LEDs (which we have strong enough signals to light up and I can drive a homemade horn loudspeaker made from a piezo element to audible volume) and some diode junctions old credit card chips, and various ICs like a 555. I think think someone DID actually make a receiver out of 555, but I'm just using a PN junction available at a couple of pins. Another FUN circuit is the loop antenna (I've made them on "acquired" milk crates and ~2-ft quilting loops. Those work great on a regular RX with inductive coupling, but if you put a diode/earphone? on it, you can easily hear loud locals.??

Might be fun to see if Rex wants to delve back into XTAL sets with QRPME.? I know he's done a lot of XTAL set work in the past.

-HRS


H. Russell Smith, N0QLT??? ?????????????????????????????


On Saturday, April 15, 2023 at 01:52:49 PM CDT, John Putnum, AC9UV <johnfputnam@...> wrote:


Chuck,

I think that response was from me.? H* is a tap point shown in the Sea Sprite Schematic that is the tap point just after the LPF. I mentioned it because it is also marked on the PC board just after the LPF.? The Transformer in the SSEz build is to match the end fed wire, so if you hook a 50 ohm dummy load at the marked Antenna connector on the board you have a large mismatch and low SWR and the feedback into the circuit provides some funny results (attached photo).

As to using the supplied antenna or another antenna, I would put an antenna analyzer in series with the antenna and see what kind of SWR you get. If not very good, a tunner between the antenna and the analyzer and tune it up then you can take out the analyzer.? The Antenna and swr are important, when you have your rig, the swr is the gold to getting your signal out.

? ?---John AC9UV


On 04/15/2023 7:29 AM Chuck Carpenter <w5usj@...> wrote:


On Sun, Mar 26, 2023 at 02:22 PM, Daniel KK4MRN wrote:

Daniel, First, you got a good response to your request or folks to join the QRPmekits group.

I have comments about a couple of things in the message:

I learned how to tap off?point "H" and ground to use a 50ohm power meter and 50ohm dummy load to measure QRP power levels or use a different antenna.

I didn't attend the VideoAthon but I'm considering building the Sprite Kit. What is point H? Why not describe it as the junctions of (parts connected to point H).
And are there also other steps needed? What are the other options?

Or, I could just the end fed random wire antenna and 9:1 unun and counterpoise that I already am using, but I need to finish my home brew z-match.

What would the 1:9 RF transformer do that isn't already being done by the no-tune (1:8)** RF transformer? If you use a counterpoise with the 1:9 transformer, the antenna becomes an EFLW with much lower feed-point impedance. So maybe a 1:4 transformer would be better.

** A 1:8 turns ratio is 50:3200 Ohms impedance ratio.

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