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First, the good news: IT'S ALIVE.
It accepts power, it does not catch fire, and all the controls work and pass diagnostics.
The bad news: it does not pass transmit diagnostics, and all the different sweeps are wrong.
Attached is a (mercifully short) recording of the diagnostics screen including transmission into a dummy load.?
The most obvious problem is: wattage is 0!?
I'm using a buck-boost that's got the voltage at 12 (this is a 12-volt build). Idle draw is 0.115A. Draw when attempting to transmit during the diagnostic is 0.255, which seems low.
Obviously, some kind of rework will be necessary. What's my most likely culprit to start with?
Thank you all!
Michael WD0OM
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Hi Michael,
?
that’s great that it is alive. ?Congratulations on that part.
?
look at all of your soldered joints under magnification and a bright light. ?Look especially at T501, the output transformer. ?If you didn’t scrape the enamel off the wire and solder those well it would exhibit this problem. ?The same for L502. ?Remember that the rig will work correctly if all parts are in the right place and soldered well. ?It’s rare that a part is defective.?
good luck
?
--
73
Jeff Moore
W1NC
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Jeff,
I have no doubts at all about that last part. Anything not working here is on me and my relative noviceness! The kit is great and the instructions (mostly) very clear!
T501 And L502 make sense as starting points. Thank you. Just needed a thread to start pulling on.
Michael WD0OM
On Thu, Sep 26, 2024, at 05:45, Jeffrey W Moore via groups.io wrote:
Hi Michael,
?
that’s great that it is alive. ?Congratulations on that part.
?
look at all of your soldered joints under magnification and a bright light. ?Look especially at T501, the output transformer. ?If you didn’t scrape the enamel off the wire and solder those well it would exhibit this problem. ?The same for L502. ?Remember that the rig will work correctly if all parts are in the right place and soldered well. ?It’s rare that a part is defective.?
good luck
?
--
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Michael,
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Is it receiving? If not is the link fitted at the Aerial socket?
If all bands exhibit no output and all sweeps are up the swanny.
My guess is CLK2 is missing.
?
I had the same problem.
?
73
?
Ian G4GIR
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Show quoted text
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael - WD0OM via groups.io < wd0om@...>
Sent: 26/09/2024 05:14:04
Subject: [QRPLabs] QMX+ build: so close, and yet....
First, the good news: IT'S ALIVE.
It accepts power, it does not catch fire, and all the controls work and pass diagnostics.
The bad news: it does not pass transmit diagnostics, and all the different sweeps are wrong.
Attached is a (mercifully short) recording of the diagnostics screen including transmission into a dummy load.?
The most obvious problem is: wattage is 0!?
I'm using a buck-boost that's got the voltage at 12 (this is a 12-volt build). Idle draw is 0.115A. Draw when attempting to transmit during the diagnostic is 0.255, which seems low.
Obviously, some kind of rework will be necessary. What's my most likely culprit to start with?
Thank you all!
Michael WD0OM
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I'm afraid I must say that I don't know yet! I was only using a dummy load, in my basement. I don't have an actual shack in my house -- I'm all portable, all the time -- and I reached this particular juncture at 2300 local time! :-D
It's a good question, though, and another thread to pull on. I will see if I can make time this evening to actually get an antenna up and see what/if I can hear.
On Thu, Sep 26, 2024, at 09:11, Ian G4GIR wrote:
Michael,
?
Is it receiving? If not is the link fitted at the Aerial socket?
If all bands exhibit no output and all sweeps are up the swanny.
My guess is CLK2 is missing.
?
I had the same problem.
?
73
?
Ian G4GIR
?
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael - WD0OM via groups.io < wd0om@...> Sent: 26/09/2024 05:14:04
Subject: [QRPLabs] QMX+ build: so close, and yet....
First, the good news: IT'S ALIVE.
It accepts power, it does not catch fire, and all the controls work and pass diagnostics.
The bad news: it does not pass transmit diagnostics, and all the different sweeps are wrong.
Attached is a (mercifully short) recording of the diagnostics screen including transmission into a dummy load.?
The most obvious problem is: wattage is 0!?
I'm using a buck-boost that's got the voltage at 12 (this is a 12-volt build). Idle draw is 0.115A. Draw when attempting to transmit during the diagnostic is 0.255, which seems low.
Obviously, some kind of rework will be necessary. What's my most likely culprit to start with?
Thank you all!
Michael WD0OM
|
I think Ian was asking about the jumper wire on the main PCB that has to be installed to get the RF signals in and out of the BNC connector. It's described in the assembly manual on the same page as the 'Wind and install transformer T501' instructions.?
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I'm pretty sure I did add that jumper....but that doesn't mean it's right :-D I will check it!
On Thu, Sep 26, 2024, at 10:37, Greg McCain via groups.io wrote:
I think Ian was asking about the jumper wire on the main PCB that has to be installed to get the RF signals in and out of the BNC connector.
It's described in the assembly manual on the same page as the 'Wind and install transformer T501' instructions.?
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OK, so: the jumper wire looks good. So far, most of my other joints also look good.
The BNC connector itself though, I get continuity between the four ground pins, and the fifth middle pin which I assume is the signal pin. I'm pretty sure I should not have continuity there!
There are no obvious bridges, so I may have to actually try to rework the whole part. I'm open to suggestions :-D
Meanwhile, I will keep looking for other areas of the board touchups might be needed!
On Thu, Sep 26, 2024, at 11:05, Michael - WD0OM wrote:
I'm pretty sure I did add that jumper....but that doesn't mean it's right :-D I will check it!
On Thu, Sep 26, 2024, at 10:37, Greg McCain via groups.io wrote:
I think Ian was asking about the jumper wire on the main PCB that has to be installed to get the RF signals in and out of the BNC connector.
It's described in the assembly manual on the same page as the 'Wind and install transformer T501' instructions.?
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Here is the area in question, zoomed in from my phone camera.?
On Thu, Sep 26, 2024, at 16:07, Michael - WD0OM wrote:
OK, so: the jumper wire looks good. So far, most of my other joints also look good.
The BNC connector itself though, I get continuity between the four ground pins, and the fifth middle pin which I assume is the signal pin. I'm pretty sure I should not have continuity there!
There are no obvious bridges, so I may have to actually try to rework the whole part. I'm open to suggestions :-D
Meanwhile, I will keep looking for other areas of the board touchups might be needed!
On Thu, Sep 26, 2024, at 11:05, Michael - WD0OM wrote:
I'm pretty sure I did add that jumper....but that doesn't mean it's right :-D I will check it!
On Thu, Sep 26, 2024, at 10:37, Greg McCain via groups.io wrote:
I think Ian was asking about the jumper wire on the main PCB that has to be installed to get the RF signals in and out of the BNC connector.
It's described in the assembly manual on the same page as the 'Wind and install transformer T501' instructions.?
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Don't worry about the DC continuity across the BNC - there's a DC path through T507 (I think thats the one), but ok at RF.
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OK, so that's a red herring. Good to know, I guess!
Next up then I guess is to look more closely at the T507 itself.
On Thu, Sep 26, 2024, at 16:18, ZL1SGS wrote:
Don't worry about the DC continuity across the BNC - there's a DC path through T507 (I think thats the one), but ok at RF.
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This question comes up from time to time.? The measured short across the center pin of the BNC to ground is normal due to one of the windings of T507 going across the BNC output to ground.? Of course, you could also have a short from the BNC hot side to a ground pin of the SMA footprint but your soldering looks OK here.
-Steve K1RF
------ Original Message ------
Date 9/26/2024 5:15:14 PM
Subject Re: [QRPLabs] QMX+ build: so close, and yet....
Here is the area in question, zoomed in from my phone camera.?
On Thu, Sep 26, 2024, at 16:07, Michael - WD0OM wrote:
OK, so: the jumper wire looks good. So far, most of my other joints also look good.
The BNC connector itself though, I get continuity between the four ground pins, and the fifth middle pin which I assume is the signal pin. I'm pretty sure I should not have continuity there!
There are no obvious bridges, so I may have to actually try to rework the whole part. I'm open to suggestions :-D
Meanwhile, I will keep looking for other areas of the board touchups might be needed!
On Thu, Sep 26, 2024, at 11:05, Michael - WD0OM wrote:
I'm pretty sure I did add that jumper....but that doesn't mean it's right :-D I will check it!
On Thu, Sep 26, 2024, at 10:37, Greg McCain via groups.io wrote:
I think Ian was asking about the jumper wire on the main PCB that has to be installed to get the RF signals in and out of the BNC connector.
It's described in the assembly manual on the same page as the 'Wind and install transformer T501' instructions.?
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The joint top right in your pic is not soldered well, and the one top left, 2 down, also looks suspicious.
73
Roger
8P6RX
Get BlueMail for Android
On 26 Sept 2024, at 17:15, Michael - WD0OM < wd0om@...> wrote:
Here is the area in question, zoomed in from my phone camera.?
On Thu, Sep 26, 2024, at 16:07, Michael - WD0OM wrote:
OK, so: the jumper wire looks good. So far, most of my other joints also look good.
The BNC connector itself though, I get continuity between the four ground pins, and the fifth middle pin which I assume is the signal pin. I'm pretty sure I should not have continuity there!
There are no obvious bridges, so I may have to actually try to rework the whole part. I'm open to suggestions :-D
Meanwhile, I will keep looking for other areas of the board touchups might be needed!
On Thu, Sep 26, 2024, at 11:05, Michael - WD0OM wrote:
I'm pretty sure I did add that jumper....but that doesn't mean it's right :-D I will check it!
On Thu, Sep 26, 2024, at 10:37, Greg McCain via groups.io wrote:
I think Ian was asking about the jumper wire on the main PCB that has to be installed to get the RF signals in and out of the BNC connector.
It's described in the assembly manual on the same page as the 'Wind and install transformer T501' instructions.?
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Sorry, 3 down.
Roger
Get
On 26 Sept 2024, at 17:40, Roger Hill < rhill@...> wrote:
The joint top right in your pic is not soldered well, and the one top left, 2 down, also looks suspicious.
73
Roger
8P6RX
Get BlueMail for Android
On 26 Sept 2024, at 17:15, Michael - WD0OM < wd0om@...> wrote:
Here is the area in question, zoomed in from my phone camera.?
On Thu, Sep 26, 2024, at 16:07, Michael - WD0OM wrote:
OK, so: the jumper wire looks good. So far, most of my other joints also look good.
The BNC connector itself though, I get continuity between the four ground pins, and the fifth middle pin which I assume is the signal pin. I'm pretty sure I should not have continuity there!
There are no obvious bridges, so I may have to actually try to rework the whole part. I'm open to suggestions :-D
Meanwhile, I will keep looking for other areas of the board touchups might be needed!
On Thu, Sep 26, 2024, at 11:05, Michael - WD0OM wrote:
I'm pretty sure I did add that jumper....but that doesn't mean it's right :-D I will check it!
On Thu, Sep 26, 2024, at 10:37, Greg McCain via groups.io wrote:
I think Ian was asking about the jumper wire on the main PCB that has to be installed to get the RF signals in and out of the BNC connector.
It's described in the assembly manual on the same page as the 'Wind and install transformer T501' instructions.?
|
Yeah, I'd noticed those were iffy, too. I touched them up. No real help, there. Same results when I powered back on and ran the diag.
On Thu, Sep 26, 2024, at 16:41, Roger Hill wrote:
Get
On 26 Sept 2024, at 17:40, Roger Hill < rhill@...> wrote: The joint top right in your pic is not soldered well, and the one top left, 2 down, also looks suspicious.
73
Roger
Get BlueMail for Android
On 26 Sept 2024, at 17:15, Michael - WD0OM < wd0om@...> wrote: Here is the area in question, zoomed in from my phone camera.?
On Thu, Sep 26, 2024, at 16:07, Michael - WD0OM wrote:
OK, so: the jumper wire looks good. So far, most of my other joints also look good.
The BNC connector itself though, I get continuity between the four ground pins, and the fifth middle pin which I assume is the signal pin. I'm pretty sure I should not have continuity there!
There are no obvious bridges, so I may have to actually try to rework the whole part. I'm open to suggestions :-D
Meanwhile, I will keep looking for other areas of the board touchups might be needed!
On Thu, Sep 26, 2024, at 11:05, Michael - WD0OM wrote:
I'm pretty sure I did add that jumper....but that doesn't mean it's right :-D I will check it!
On Thu, Sep 26, 2024, at 10:37, Greg McCain via groups.io wrote:
I think Ian was asking about the jumper wire on the main PCB that has to be installed to get the RF signals in and out of the BNC connector.
It's described in the assembly manual on the same page as the 'Wind and install transformer T501' instructions.?
|
I also just touched up T501's joints. No real help.
Transmit diagnostics still show 0W, and 10-ish V (which I think is low). SWR bounces around between 1 and 5 but never constant.
On Thu, Sep 26, 2024, at 16:47, Michael - WD0OM wrote:
Yeah, I'd noticed those were iffy, too. I touched them up. No real help, there. Same results when I powered back on and ran the diag.
On Thu, Sep 26, 2024, at 16:41, Roger Hill wrote:
Get
On 26 Sept 2024, at 17:40, Roger Hill < rhill@...> wrote: The joint top right in your pic is not soldered well, and the one top left, 2 down, also looks suspicious.
73
Roger
Get BlueMail for Android
On 26 Sept 2024, at 17:15, Michael - WD0OM < wd0om@...> wrote: Here is the area in question, zoomed in from my phone camera.?
On Thu, Sep 26, 2024, at 16:07, Michael - WD0OM wrote:
OK, so: the jumper wire looks good. So far, most of my other joints also look good.
The BNC connector itself though, I get continuity between the four ground pins, and the fifth middle pin which I assume is the signal pin. I'm pretty sure I should not have continuity there!
There are no obvious bridges, so I may have to actually try to rework the whole part. I'm open to suggestions :-D
Meanwhile, I will keep looking for other areas of the board touchups might be needed!
On Thu, Sep 26, 2024, at 11:05, Michael - WD0OM wrote:
I'm pretty sure I did add that jumper....but that doesn't mean it's right :-D I will check it!
On Thu, Sep 26, 2024, at 10:37, Greg McCain via groups.io wrote:
I think Ian was asking about the jumper wire on the main PCB that has to be installed to get the RF signals in and out of the BNC connector.
It's described in the assembly manual on the same page as the 'Wind and install transformer T501' instructions.?
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Sorry, misspoke -- it was not T501 I touched up, it was the Trifilar.
On Thu, Sep 26, 2024, at 16:50, Michael Scott Shappe wrote:
I also just touched up T501's joints. No real help.
Transmit diagnostics still show 0W, and 10-ish V (which I think is low). SWR bounces around between 1 and 5 but never constant.
On Thu, Sep 26, 2024, at 16:47, Michael - WD0OM wrote:
Yeah, I'd noticed those were iffy, too. I touched them up. No real help, there. Same results when I powered back on and ran the diag.
On Thu, Sep 26, 2024, at 16:41, Roger Hill wrote:
Get
On 26 Sept 2024, at 17:40, Roger Hill < rhill@...> wrote: The joint top right in your pic is not soldered well, and the one top left, 2 down, also looks suspicious.
73
Roger
Get BlueMail for Android
On 26 Sept 2024, at 17:15, Michael - WD0OM < wd0om@...> wrote: Here is the area in question, zoomed in from my phone camera.?
On Thu, Sep 26, 2024, at 16:07, Michael - WD0OM wrote:
OK, so: the jumper wire looks good. So far, most of my other joints also look good.
The BNC connector itself though, I get continuity between the four ground pins, and the fifth middle pin which I assume is the signal pin. I'm pretty sure I should not have continuity there!
There are no obvious bridges, so I may have to actually try to rework the whole part. I'm open to suggestions :-D
Meanwhile, I will keep looking for other areas of the board touchups might be needed!
On Thu, Sep 26, 2024, at 11:05, Michael - WD0OM wrote:
I'm pretty sure I did add that jumper....but that doesn't mean it's right :-D I will check it!
On Thu, Sep 26, 2024, at 10:37, Greg McCain via groups.io wrote:
I think Ian was asking about the jumper wire on the main PCB that has to be installed to get the RF signals in and out of the BNC connector.
It's described in the assembly manual on the same page as the 'Wind and install transformer T501' instructions.?
|
OK, at this point, I'm stumped again.
I have touched up joints all along the BNC-side of the board, all the way down to the infamous BS170s, along with the trifilar which looked very iffy.
It all still seems to be behaving about the same -- which is to say, not right.
Picking 20m this time as a specific target, when I hit T:
BIAS SMPS current goes red, 61.3 mA, duty cycle is 0%
Transmitter voltage bounces between 10.3 (which its fine with) and 10.4 (which goes red)
Power is 0.0W
SWR, as I said earlier, bounces all over the place.
Supply, 3.3V SMPS, and 5V SMPS all are green and nominal where they belong: 12.3V, 3.3V, 5V, duty cycles all green.
What's the next thing to look at?
Thank you all!
Michael WD0OM
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Answering the question from way earlier about whether receiving was working, though, the answer appears to be yes. Granted I'm still just on the dummy load, but I put in headphones and tuned around, and definitely seem to hear signals.
So exactly that much is right?
On Thu, Sep 26, 2024, at 17:20, Michael - WD0OM wrote:
OK, at this point, I'm stumped again.
I have touched up joints all along the BNC-side of the board, all the way down to the infamous BS170s, along with the trifilar which looked very iffy.
It all still seems to be behaving about the same -- which is to say, not right.
Picking 20m this time as a specific target, when I hit T:
BIAS SMPS current goes red, 61.3 mA, duty cycle is 0%
Transmitter voltage bounces between 10.3 (which its fine with) and 10.4 (which goes red)
Power is 0.0W
SWR, as I said earlier, bounces all over the place.
Supply, 3.3V SMPS, and 5V SMPS all are green and nominal where they belong: 12.3V, 3.3V, 5V, duty cycles all green.
What's the next thing to look at?
Thank you all!
Michael WD0OM
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The SWR bridge winding will look like a short at DC, this is normal.
73, Don N2VGU
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ZL1SGS
Donald S Brant Jr