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Recommendations for solder temps and workstation
Greetings,
I have a QMX kit on the way. I notice the recommended soldering iron is 60w and the one I have is 40w so I will have to buy something.
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There seem to be hundreds listed on Amazon and most have controllable temperatures.?
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From what I remember from my reading, some components need higher temperatures and others lower temperatures for soldering but I have not seen actual? temperature numbers.
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Do you have any recommendations for temperature numbers either in C or F?
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Some of the soldering stations listed in Amazon have a heat gun as well as a soldering iron. I already have a paint stripper heat gun I use for heat shrinking. Is the smaller unit on stations useful?
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Do you have any specific stations listed in Amazon that you recommend?
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Thanks so much for any suggestions you may have.
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Back in my younger days, I built many Heathkits. This kit will be challenging because of its compact nature.
Jim |
You don't need to buy a new iron, though it would speed up your work a bit. The ideal soldering iron gets hot enough for the task at hand, and quickly reheats after soldering a joint; 60W lets you do that more quickly, and a low mass tip also helps with that speed. The important feature to look for when you're buying a new soldering tool is closed loop temperature control. That means that the tip can come up to temperature quickly while not getting so hot that it will damage your components. It has become much more affordable than it once was. You can build QRP Labs equipment without it, but if you're buying something new it's the way to go. The hot air part of those fancy soldering stations is for SMD work. It's a great thing to have for that, although some SMD work can be done with a normal iron. It's not very useful for work on through-hole parts, though it's sometimes useful for desoldering them. On Tue, Feb 25, 2025 at 11:20?AM Jim Brown via <jwbrown=[email protected]> wrote:
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There's a difference between minimum soldering iron and the? 'OMG I should have bought this 10 years ago' soldering Iron you'll buy eventually. While components and PCB's are getting smaller the arrival of on-PCB heatsinking areas and multi layer boards has upped the challenge for a good joint without component damage (= Rapid heat transfer and done )? I use a 90W temperature controlled Weller with 2.5mm chisel bit 99.9% of the time.? ?It has ridiculous, stable, heat generation and transfer capabilities and makes great joints quickly when a smaller /less powerful iron would keep me waiting (And frying the associated components for 30 - 60 seconds at a time.? It also has a useful LCD Display showing how much power (=heat transfer) is actually going into the joint which helps improve technique.? I use 325°颁? for Leaded and 355°颁 for unleaded.? ?Due to high power and temperature control of my iron these do not need fiddling with to try to build up 'extra heat' in the 'too small iron'? If you think you will be in this hobby in 3 years or more spend the money on a good one now? . . .? I do have a '60W' Chinese temperature controlled iron in the car for unexpected emergencies. . .? ? ?It often does the job but but not always and can even end up stuck to really large solder areas which is fairly awkward? . . .? ?It would probably let me assemble a QRP Labs kit though but there's 0% chance I'd want to by choice with a better one on the bench. A paint stripper heat gun will be disaster on PCB's? - again a decent one will change your life early on reworking SMD boards |
I too have bought bad Chinese irons.? The first one I bought showed the "intended" temperature,
from the moment you plugged it in, giving no idea how hot the tip really was.
It was also too weak to deal with something like the QMX ground plane connections.
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This one addressed both those issues: ?
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A well chosen Weller or Hakko might work better, at 10x the cost.
There might well be Chinese irons out there that are of equal quality, but not at $16
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Jerry, KE7ER?
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On Tue, Feb 25, 2025 at 01:43 PM, Bruce Akhurst wrote:
I do have a '60W' Chinese temperature controlled iron in the car for unexpected emergencies. |
Jim,
For the temperature of your soldering iron: it depends on the solder you want or need to use/melt and not on the components. I once learned that lead solder (60/40, LSn60Pb, ??) with flux is rated for 370°颁 and I guess most components, PCBs, etc could be heated way longer than an ordinary solderjoint needs to without taking damage. Exceptions are of course wire insulation, anything plastic, they can melt/retract more quickly than we asked for and require swift action. The power of the soldering iron is directly related to the time it needs to heat to the desired temp, then it cuts off, the tip cools down, heats up, repeatedly. If yours says 40W, it could be well over it, it's more of a minimum the manufactorer would like to guarantee. I would give it a try first with a 3mm chisel tip. I used an older Weller/50W Magnastat with a 3mm chisel/370°颁 tip and it worked with my QMX+. Solder is 60/37 with flux, 1.5mm. Even with extended heating I couldn't get other joints in close distance to melt. If you have further questions regarding soldering, I'd be happy to answer them. 73, Norbert |
On Tue, Feb 25, 2025 at 05:12 PM, Jerry Gaffke wrote:
Thanks for that tip, Jerry! ?
I often use the two iron technique for desoldering SMD parts and my old cheap iron was a little weak at only 30W so I'll be trying a new cheap iron for this very soon! A very old 60W Weller is still serving me well as my primary PCB iron and I've acquired a large collection of both worn-out and newer tips for it.
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Cal
AD8Q |
On Tue, Feb 25, 2025 at 07:12 PM, Jerry Gaffke wrote:
I bought this soldering iron and I love it! 100 Watt. Heats quick and gets hot enough for most work you will have doing kits. I would also suggest looking into getting some good tips for it. I found these to be excellent.
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Dean - KC9REN?
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On Thu, Feb 27, 2025 at 08:08 AM, Dean - KC9REN wrote:
This one addressed both those issues: ?What is the spare tip situation?? Much of the Chinese stuff uses Hakko tips, if this one does I might look into it.? ?
I am also considering this one, which has the temperature sensor embedded near the tip;? it uses proprietary, but inexpensive, tips.??
iron
shorter tips
73, Don N2VGU |
On Thu, Feb 27, 2025 at 11:13 AM, Donald S Brant Jr wrote:
Donald, Yes this soldering iron does use the Hakko tips.?
Dean - KC9REN
? |
As I have said before, one thing you might fault this $16 iron for is that the plug has only two prongs for 120vac, no safety ground.
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I have used such irons occasionally for the last 40 years and never had an issue.
But if there were a fault inside around the heating element, the tip could become electrically hot with power from the 120vac mains.
If this is of concern because you have something irreplaceable to solder, you can tightly wrap some copper wire around the base of?
the metal barrel, bringing it back along the the cord to your 120vac outlet safety ground.? I assume any anti-static mat is also
tied to that same safety ground.
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If that seems too janky, it is possible to disassemble the iron and bring that wire back through the inside of the handle,
and replace the two wire cord with a three wire cord.? But that's not trivial to do, and I can't recommend it.
Let us know if anyone finds an iron that is as good but with a safety ground through the cord.? Should be around 100W,
display normally shows current temperature with little lag, shows the new target temperature for a few seconds after
any adjustment with the up/down buttons.
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Jerry, KE7ER
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On Fri, Feb 28, 2025 at 05:18 AM, Dean - KC9REN wrote:
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One more requirement, otherwise it's way too easy:
Should be down around $16.
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Jerry, KE7ER
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On Fri, Feb 28, 2025 at 07:07 AM, Jerry Gaffke wrote:
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On Fri, Feb 28, 2025 at 10:07 AM, Jerry Gaffke wrote:
As I have said before, one thing you might fault this $16 iron for is that the plug has only two prongs for 120vac, no safety ground.No ground prong means no ESD or safety ground; non-starter, I'll pass. I am going for the Pinecil, it will take up to 60W from USB3 which should be plenty, you don't need 100 watts if the sensor is in the tip and reacts quickly.??
Thanks for the information.
73, Don N2VGU |
I don't understand; I thought USB3 had a maximum power capability of 4.5 watts.
73
Roger
8P6RX
Get
On 28 Feb 2025, at 16:16, "Donald S Brant Jr via " <gmail.com@groups.io target=_blank>[email protected]> wrote:
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On Fri, Feb 28, 2025 at 03:19 PM, Roger Hill wrote:
I don't understand; I thought USB3 had a maximum power capability of 4.5 watts.The newer USB PD AND QC deliver much more power at higher voltages:? POWER PORT: USB type C: PD and QC 3.0 12V 20V 3A Barrel Jack: DC5525, 12V 21V DC 3A So actually 63 W with 21V external supply.?
They sell 100W (20V, 5A) USB power cables: ?
and 160W power supplies: ?
and probably higher power available or coming soon.
73, Don N2VGU |
Thanks Don.
Roger
Get
On 28 Feb 2025, at 16:28, "Donald S Brant Jr via " <gmail.com@groups.io target=_blank>[email protected]> wrote:
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