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Replaced the green? caps (L25 and L26) on the 30m QCX. Used 560pF SM 805 size with C0G temp characteristic. Result - the lag problem fixed. Then removed 1 turn each from L1, L2 and L3. Result - power

Cap C1 can be something of a problem alright. First of all, the range from fully meshed to unmeshed takes only one half turn, 180 degrees. If you look at the cap carefully you can see what position

“I'd like to alternate between using the keyer and the straight key without changing connections…” – try tying the straight key to either of the paddles.* “…or firmware settings” –

Clarification:? I'd like to alternate between using the keyer and the straight key without changing connections or firmware settings.

Oooohhh.... YAY, new toys! 73 Nick VK4PP

This may be simple enough for me, if I understand what you want to do. Does “use the straight key and built-in keyer at the same time” mean simultaneously, or alternately without having to uplug

Brian It is easy to pump too much current into a bs170 and kill it off, at 5 0r 12 volts. While is some rigs a trio of bs170s can provide 5 watts, the u3s is limited by the available drive from the

LL At least one builder had a defective trimmer cap, so carefully examine it. Possibly you have something not connected somewhere. I would poke around with my finger with that test oscillator

(The original subject line for this thread was Re: QCX Tune.?I added #qcx. If this launches a new thread, then search "QCX Tune" for the prior message context) I also want to be able to use the

Lloyd, You're right about what it looks like, C1 is just like most tuning capacitors plates either fully meshed or open. One thing to make sure of is the band pass transformer, T1 (right?), is making

...could it be that we're supposed to turn C1 many times in one direction, before any change is seen...? it sort of looked as though the entire range was limited to just less than fully engaged or

After replacing IC2, my rig is not keying itself. When hooked up to an antenna, I hear static, and a rhythmic ticking sound, which might be some QRN from something nearby. but when I attempt to begin

I would say no. In that configuration I think it's better to run only 1 BS170 at 5V. Generally that will give you 200 mW out of the U3S on 40m and probably 30m as well. --Al WD4AH

Stuart It should be 2.5V. R20 should have 5V one end. 10K/10K should divide that voltage. R19 should be grounded on one end. But pin 1 should be the same. Check voltages at each end of R26 & 27 also

Hi Alan & Ton, IC6 pin 3 is 1.25V. What should the volts be. The is no short circuit between pin 7 and 8 of IC 1 it looks good. Sorry about the limited information it is 3.40 AM my phone woke me up so

Count me in! When do the pre-orders begin??? John K6WJG

Hello, When adjusting the bias for the 5W PA, do I need to re-adjust the bias on the U3S?

I'm interested too, I've been casting eyes on the BiTX but this could be a serous contender. -- Clint. M0UAW IO83 *No trees were harmed in the sending of this mail. However, a large number of

You're very welcome Chris and I'm pleased it's working 'as new'.

I'm in, too! -- 73, Jim W7EED