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Greg, a better solution would be to add a FET switch to turn on your relay - the gate of a FET is what the output of QMX was designed for, not to directly drive a relay.

A simple FET switch and a 470nF capacitor across the relay terminals, with a 9V transistor battery (or 5V arduino power source) would work well to switch your relay.

Stan KC7XE

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Tayfun,

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Often Windows will not make a sound at all when you plug in the QMX+ correctly, because it uses the same USB virtual serial port we use on other devices, and it already has the driver installed and ready.

Follow this procedure, starting with your QMX+ not plugged in to the computer:

1) In Windows 11, bring up "Device Manager" (right-click on the windows start icon, and there is a selection for it).? In Device Manager, if there is a selection for "Ports (COM & LPT)", expand it and see what devices are present.? If there is no such selection, it's ok, you don't have any currently active.

2) Now with QMX+ power off, plug in the USB data cable to QMX+ and PC.

3) Now power on the QMX+ while watching the Device Manager window.

A new device should appear within a few seconds under "Ports (COM & LPT)", and if that ports selection wasn't there before, it should appear with one entry.

This new entry is your QMX+ - note the com port number it is using so you can use it with PuTTY or TeraTerm or whatever terminal emulator you will use.

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A key here is that QMX+ only initializes its USB port when it powers on, and only IF it sees that the cable is plugged in.? So you need to power it on, or power-cycle it AFTER you plug in the cable in order for the computer to recognize it.

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I hope this helps.? There is not a lot that can go wrong in the QMX+ hardware, since there isn't much, as you have seen.? Just a couple of wires and resistors, leading into processor pins.? So usually it is something related to the connection or startup procedure.? Win11 has all the necessary drivers pre-installed, so it should be ready to go unless you have done some specific driver unloading.

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Stan KC7XE

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Good evening from chilly Southwest Florida

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I've run into an issue with a relay I wired into an adjustable attenuator board.

The PTT signals coming from both my QMX HB Rev2 and my QDX LB rev 5 aren't sufficient to keep the relay pulled.

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Completely my bad.

I tested my chosen relays on a breadboard and used 5V from an Arduino Uno to confirm I had the correct pinouts and where to tie into the attenuator board (QRPKits - 41dB selectable). Nice solid pull-ins and signals attenuated when expected.

I didn't test with the actual PTT Voltage and current available from the Q's until I had everything tied in.

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I vaguely remember see somewhere that it may be possible to make more +5v current available on these units.?

Hoping someone can confirm that and give me an idea where the find messages/information. And what pitfalls I might run into if there are mods for use with QPR 50W amps that I have.?

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The relay is an HK 19F-DC5V-SHG.? It needs about 0.2W to feed the approximately 125 Ohm coil.?

On the Q's there is no solid, clearly audible relay click-in with PTT but there is faint click when dropping PTT.

I see about 1.8V across the coil when PTT is asserted.

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Thanks in advance,

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GREG KI4NVX

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Hello Greg:? based on your experience with it and reviews I've read on Amazon, I'm going to order the WEP 882D.? Just $60.00 -- amazing, for so much flexibility!? The fact that you built so many QRP Labs kits with this station says a lot.??

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Chip Quick makes an array of paste products.? Can you provide an exact recommendation?

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I plan on ordering these other items:

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Solder: ?

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Helping Hands/Soldering Mat: ?

(I have doubts about its ESD suppression abilities when boards are being held off of the surface.)

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Smoke extractor: ?

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Any additional comments from anyone are welcome before I pull the trigger on this order!

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Thank you!? --73

Hello, I just built a QMX+, the controls on the device work, but I couldn't test it fully because I don't have an HF antenna in my workshop. When I wanted to test it by connecting it to my computer, I found that the USB connection doesn't work, when I plug in the cable my computer doesn't react at all, there is no warning like "device unknown", it's as if the cable was never plugged in. Then I started searching the group posts and double-checked the items I wrote below,

- I am sure that the cable I am using is suitable for data transmission
- It was written that the smd mount USB-c connector sometimes has soldering errors, I made sure it was soldered correctly,
- I have checked the 2 lines coming out of the USB-c connector and going to the microcontroller and they look healthy,

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I am using windows 11 operating system, I don't have access to an older version of windows or linux distro for now but I will try them.

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Many thanks in advance for your help on the subject.
TA2KTK - Tayfun

Just shutdown everything and reconnected PD bank and trigger cable, USB cable, dummy load etc.

Have no idea why.

Just did it once.

GREG

I have tried the dummy load with no change in symptoms.

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Mike, your FT8 plot at least gave me a hint of how to 'see' the tone, HIHI.? I had to install WSJT-X on my little Raspberry and set it up ( piece of cake ) and now I can see mine, and it looks a great deal like yours.? Only on two bands HIHI.? Actually with the high end test using WSJT-X software, I can detect a tone on 10M as well.? But it's way down in the noise.? I may do some quick soldering around the filter parts, etc.? but the traces all look good on the bands in question so a bit of heat might rule out a bad connection.

I think the 1408 is the issue.? I am going to order a small quantity to see if I can change it myself.? On this radio it's pretty much out in the open, so should not be an impossibility.? There have been several notes on the soldering process to change out the 1408 so I am going to give it a try.?

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I will report back when i find the issue.? It may take a while as I have to get components here, then find time to concentrate on the fix for a bit.? I am *very* slow on stuff like this.? It took me 7 months to build the QMX+ HIHI.

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73

Dick

W4PID

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From the pic, it appears to be a QMX+.

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- Bruce K1FFX

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I've seem this once and am also puzzled.? However I have noticed that my QMX is susceptible to ESD and if it gets zapped it does weird things.? (when my clothes clash ESDwise with the material in my office chair :-).

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Brien - KE7WB

Hanz, I don’t have a QMX+ V1, but I’m not convinced that you have interpreted the pinout of JP104 correctly. ?I think pin 6 should be ground, not pin 2, using the numbers you have added in the photo. You can always check for ground with your multimeter in continuity mode, to the outer of your BNC connector.?

If you look at page 65 of your assembly manual there are instructions to force Bootloader mode by grounding aux 2. If successful this will make your QMX appear as a flash drive.?

Also on the board layout on page 65 you should see JP105 right next to JP104. ?JP105 has the pins identified and is a good place to measure your supply rails, though the 5V will not be present in Bootloader mode.