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Hi Tim. In this case it is providing a 1:4 impedance step up from the 12.5 ohm FET Drain to 50 ohms at the input of the low pass filter. Ron

Thx Dave and Paul, Looking at the snip I agree that the bifilar winding 1 connects the 12v supply to the drain of the mosfet.? Winding 1 then connects to Winding 2 to provide the PA output.? Sorry

What is the best way to track many U4B trackers with one call sign? Apologize if this was discussed before but would like to know what format actually works well (routed correctly to all the WSPR

I'm not having good luck putting all four into a working chain. With the QDX USB attached to the Pi I see a serial QDX port with the Config | Setup | Other tabs. I press the 'init' but I do not see

Hi Bryan I had a similar thing happen on a QCX mini, the culprit was a burned up Q5...a BS170... Strangely this started as a reduction in TX power, Q5, shunting the output to ground partially until it

Greetings all. I finally ordered my first kit (QDX) from Hans. Something I should have done a couple years ago had I not had a silly confusion about the nature of MFSK in general, Olivia (my favorite

I presume, because your question is not sufficiently clear, that you are talking about a push pull amplifier, where a bifilar or two winding transformer is connected between the FET Drains and the

IMHO, the reason for trifilar is for /tight coupling/ and /balance/ between the windings. For when "close" _isn't_ good enough! ;-) Paul

Yes Cliff. I am now building up a PI for the QDX. Trying to get JS8CALL to work with FLrig. I dont see a QDX in the 1.4.7 version of FLrig installed with apt-get install. SourceForge is my next stop.

I live my Knipex stripping tweezers, you can get up close to the toroid without nicking it or the other windings. Those tweezers come with 0.6mm jaws standard; there are also 0.5, 0.8 and 1.0mm

I'd like to thank everyone who has provided some excellent advice! You've given me some great direction and I will chase down each of the suggestions you've made. I'm a member of the Halifax Amateur

Bryan, from those voltages it looks like you should first make sure you have good connections at the points labeled 5,6,7&8 on T1 in the instruction manual. Also make sure you installed 10K resistors

I miss them also but, I have bought those items and many other items from Amazon.

It's times like this I really miss Radio Shack.....needing more 3.5 MM stereo plugs, as usual. ?Thanks for the tips. ?I have both manuals open now and will proceed as shown.

I'll make one out of an old hacksaw blade. Looks like it should work fine and be an easy homebrew. Thanks for the idea John K5MO

Peter, I am glad that you have your QDX back up and running. Here are a couple of tips that may help you maintain the 'status quo' - your build is 9V - I would be inclined to use a 'buck-convertor' to

You can save yourself some bandwidth by just using the product ID number (B003RWS8XE). This works on most popular site (eBay, Banggood, etc). Just type it into the search bar. Jack, W8TEE

I use my wire cutters (very gently) to scrape the enamel, or an Xacto knife.? One thing I found is that my soldering iron temperature had been set too low (about 700 F).? Bumping it up to 800F made

Let me add that poor solder joints aren't always obvious even to the EXPERIENCED eye! -- 73, Dan? NM3A

Using diverse methods over the years, among them sandpaper, scalpels and lighters. Having now the Knipex wire scraper I like that one best although it too has its 'ideosyncrasies'. Sometimes it is